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A Tender for my KeelboatDAY 14 of building the Apple PieThis morning I made Gavin Atkins blog page, "In the Boat Shed", with my Apple Pie Dinghy build!
Spent a half day shaping the knees to make sure they match the gunwales, rounding the gunwales, sanding the inside of the daggerboard case and mast spot, and filling any spot that needed it.
In the end I have a pleasing curve and that is good enough.The whole interior gets a sanding to get rid of any drips or large bumps. When I applied the epoxy, I also put a coat on the bottom of the mast where I had applied some fiberglass. This web site reflects my personal ideas and doesn't represent anyone else's point of view.
When it started failing I opened it up to see, if you're interested in what's inside a sander the link is here.
I went online to the Wooden boat forum to find out about no slip coating for the bottom of the boat. One half day was spent working on the rig and sail and half a day was spent sanding and putting on a coat of paint.
Sailing puts sanding in its proper perspective and I have less trouble accepting that this boat needs to get finished so I can go play. I wrapped the bottom with a layer of fiberglass to cover a knot, plus just for good measure I wrapped a bit of fiberglass cloth around the top at the hole. Detail of where cord will be strung inside the rudder and through these holes to pull the rudder down or up.
I was worried that the small screws would not hold but the test shows that they are surprisingly strong.
NOTE: I took a look at it in the morning and deepened the coutersink holes and re set the screws.
In particular on the outside underside of the 4 corners where the gunwales meet the front and back insert. When I applied the fiberglass on the inside I not only had to work very fast, but I had to make some cuts in the glass to fit it because of the various angles and curves. They said 10 knots in the morning getting calm early afternoon, so I scooted down and took the Tanzer 22 out for the first time this year.
I did not do the floor perfectly because I plan to apply a non slip textured finish and it would be a wasted effort.


I'm not an expert boat builder and don't suggest that how I'm doing this is the best way, use your head.
Tomorrow I should be able to sand the filling, finish shaping the knees and gunwales, and apply a final coat of epoxy to the inside.
I expect she and Winston will discuss my efforts and present me with a deficiency report at the end. The first coat of paint goes on well and the hull is surprisingly smooth (except where it's not.) Immediately I start painting the word goes out to suicidal fruit flies who converge on the hull with wild abandon.
The rubrails are not very thick and I don't want to drill into the bottom of the boat in case water gets in the plywood. I had rounded the bottom of the strips and I think it makes the aluminium look a bit odd at the end. I went to local chandlers but they did not have any except for very expensive racing ones for optimists. The mast I made is smaller than I had planned and besides it's not a bad thing to be able to use a larger mast if I want to experiment. There is a slight curve top and bottom to allow for the bending of the top and bottom spars as the downhaul adds a bit of tension.
I lay a few feet of sod every spring for the cats and it's always a great success.The paint did not cover the dark wood completely and I expect I will need at least another coat. I will thread the thin strong cord through the edge hole to the larger hole in the face of the blade and make a knot. I always use Robertson square screws because they are the easiest type and stay on the driving bit or screwdriver. I did it by hand because I did not want to take the chance of overtightening the screws and stripping the hole.
The edges get rounded and the edge that connects to the inwale gets sanded to the same thickness.
I tacked the dart with 2 sided tape and put green tape on top to keep it in place until I start sewing. The sail will set a bit low near the gunwales but that's the only way I could get enough sail area. This is Brightside polyurethane that I was going to use to paint the cockpit of the Tanzer, but the colour is too creamy so I'm using the leftovers for the dinghy.


I have picked up some one eight inch aluminium strips to apply along the runners and on the skeg.
Made holes at both ends of the dowels, and the at the top of the mast, rounded the ends and sanded. This cord will then fit in the channel made in the assembly and come out at the top where I will have a cleat.
I had trouble fitting the fibreglass on because the resin was setting faster than expected and I had to take some short cuts.
The edges either have squeezed out epoxy, or the wall is slightly lower than the gunwales creating a small dip.
With the tape holding the darts it's easier to mark the polytarp fabric with my dimensions. I should not have worried much but I fret about things like that, so I put a patch overlapping the gap. I was afraid that this would cause a weak spot on the side that could break if the boat was put on it's side roughly. I could also grind the hollow out but I would rather not thin my gunwales beyond the three quarter inch width.
Some spots had double sided tape sticking out and I used talc powder on it so I could sew over it and not stick. There is another coat of epoxy yet to be applied so it is a waste of time to sand too much.
I used fast hardener and was able to put 2 layers of resin over the patch very quickly because it was very warm. I'm lucky that at least 2 neighbours are actually doing some work outside and I blend in with my sanding noise.



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