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Two temporary bulkheads are also required to hold the shape of the centre of the hull during construction.
If the boat was going to be finished using epoxy it would probably be good to give all components a coating while they are flat.
Before assembly I drilled small holes to take thin plastic cable ties along all adjacent edges.
The components were assembled in the following order, although as nothing is permanently fixed until the complete boat is stitched together it is possible to adjust and move the components as you go.
The sides of the planks were pulled in at the back and front and the permanent bulkheads and transoms attached with temporary screws. The longitudinal tank assembled in section 1 & 2 was dropped into the slot in the bottom and stitched and screwed into place. A Tender for my KeelboatDAY 14 of building the Apple PieThis morning I made Gavin Atkins blog page, "In the Boat Shed", with my Apple Pie Dinghy build! Spent a half day shaping the knees to make sure they match the gunwales, rounding the gunwales, sanding the inside of the daggerboard case and mast spot, and filling any spot that needed it. In the end I have a pleasing curve and that is good enough.The whole interior gets a sanding to get rid of any drips or large bumps. When I applied the epoxy, I also put a coat on the bottom of the mast where I had applied some fiberglass. This web site reflects my personal ideas and doesn't represent anyone else's point of view. I documented my build each evening, quite interesting if you are planning to make a stitch and glue boat (except for the sanding part, that's a bit boring).
I'm not a particularly experienced boat builder but the stitch and glue method is very forgiving.


This involves assembling the pre-cut components with wire or cable ties to pull the flat panels into the shape of the hull. The paper plans were taped over the plywood and adjusted so the grid on the plan was completely straight. The holes and strengthening ring were cut for the buoyancy tank access hatches and the extension pieces on the permanent bulkheads glued on.A glue surface was needed when the deck was finally added and these pieces of wood were attached to the components where possible.
This would allow any spillage to be easily cleaned off and also protect the surface of the wood. The easiest way to do this was to place the panels edge to edge with the front or back aligned and then roll the planks an long each other marking the positions of the holes as you go. Bevels were planed on the bulkheads and transoms so that the planks joined in at the correct angles.
In particular on the outside underside of the 4 corners where the gunwales meet the front and back insert.
When I applied the fiberglass on the inside I not only had to work very fast, but I had to make some cuts in the glass to fit it because of the various angles and curves. They said 10 knots in the morning getting calm early afternoon, so I scooted down and took the Tanzer 22 out for the first time this year.
I did not do the floor perfectly because I plan to apply a non slip textured finish and it would be a wasted effort.
I'm not an expert boat builder and don't suggest that how I'm doing this is the best way, use your head. Only when these are aligned and true is the epoxy and fibreglass tape used to fix the edges and joints permanently.
The corners of the bulkheads were removed so the joints could be finished with them in position.


I didn't do this and by the time I came to varnish the interior the wood had faded and there were some stains from epoxy which showed. The holes were drilled a few millimetres from the edge so they are eventually covered by the fibreglass tape. The plan was then removed and pencil lines drawn to mark the edges and intersections of the bulkheads. The plywood for the planks, permanent bulkheads, central buoyancy tank sides and bow and stern transoms was then cut out sightly oversize using a jig saw. The front and back ends of the hull planks were left a couple of centimetres over length as this allowed additional clamps to be attached when the hull was pulled into shape.
I should not have worried much but I fret about things like that, so I put a patch overlapping the gap.
Similarly, the bow and stern transoms were left slightly over size so a bevel could be planed later to fit the angle of the planks. I was afraid that this would cause a weak spot on the side that could break if the boat was put on it's side roughly. I used fast hardener and was able to put 2 layers of resin over the patch very quickly because it was very warm. I'm lucky that at least 2 neighbours are actually doing some work outside and I blend in with my sanding noise.



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Comments to «Apple pie pram dinghy plans plywood»

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