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Last year, my darling Andie and I reluctantly left our little jungle house in Puerto Viejo, ordered one last batido at our favorite cafe, said farewell to our fast but furious friends, and crossed the border into Panama. We carried suitcases and sea legs into the town built on docks, and with wide eyes and heavy hearts we came to the place we planned to call home. We hiked uphill to golden sands and crashing waves and lay on the rainy beach until the tide took Andie’s camera into its furious waters. We hid in a hotel lobby one afternoon while it poured and began to scheme how we might return to our Costa Rican home, instead of staying our intended three weeks. When I returned last week, more than one year later, with my travel mate and childhood friend Marissa, I strapped on my heavy pack and walked through town with an open heart instead of a broken one. We rode a boat to Isla Carenero under the protection of a blue tarp, and checked into a beachfront hostel that already felt like home. We climbed a cliff and watched surfers flow fearlessly between colossal waves and dolphins dance in the distance. We dressed in ponchos and rode to Isla Bastimentos, a muddy wilderness island, wind and salt blowing through our hair. Clouds overtook the sky but rain ceased long enough for us to stop and sit on the white sand, and occasionally stand with trepidation in the crashing sea. At night deep bass pulsed through the island and we stumbled over crabs on the sandy path to Aqua Lounge for Ladies Night, where one year before I made friends with women from all over the world over pink cocktails and too many tequila shots. This time, sober, I danced in bubbles and fog under the multicolored disco ball and wandered back to our dock to stare at the starry sky.
Each dot of vibrant light promised that maybe, possibly, hopefully, tomorrow I would see the sun. And when the rain came to greet us again, we pedaled to Paunch Beach, taking cover at Paki Point, where Andie and I spent wet afternoons desperately seeking internet.
For solitude and relaxation head outside of town to the Bluff Beach Retreat, a 45 minute bike ride from town. Stock up on specialty grocery items like imported olives, thai curry paste, and asparagus or visit the deli for cold cuts made on homemade bread, quinoa salad, and cookies baked fresh with local cacao nibs.


Satisfy your craving for spice at this incredible Indian restaurant serving curries, samosas, salads piled with grilled chicken and paneer, and full Indian thalis for sharing.
I wish wish wish I could remember the name of this place, but I do remember that it is next door to Hostel Heike on the main road across from the park.
My heart was so full reading this I’m so glad you went back to experience it all over again in a new light. Sorry…to be more specific, if you only had 2-3 days in bocas, where would you spend it?
Top highlights for just a couple of days include a day of diving or snorkeling around Caye Zapatillo and a day at Starfish Beach. My partner and I are thinking about moving to Panama, so it’s great to see a little more of this country. I’m planning a week in Bocas del Toro after my stay at Blue Osa and look whose blog I stumbled upon? He also is an avid swimmer and needs a beach and water safe and calm enough for safe swimming daily, if possible.
I would not recommend Jaco at all, it’s overdeveloped, crowded, dirty, lots of litter. Your general web browsing experience will be much improved if you upgrade for free to Internet Explorer 9 or Google Chrome. The Lodge sits on grand, deserted bluff beach offers a private swimming pool, gardens, and a full complimentary breakfast. The restaurant sits above a cute little bar called The Bookstore which had live music the night we went. The restaurant sits on a dock over the calm turquoise sea and offers delicious tropical beverages, Caribbean style cuisine, and delicious ceviche. The view is unbeatable, the design is positively inspired, and the smoothies and blended cocktails are to die for. I arrived on Bocas Day, which is just a freaking incredible cacophony of trumpets, drums, and endless parading down the main street – the parade is an all day and into the night affair. I want to go back, fortunately it’s right next door to Puerto Viejo Did you do the tour to Dolphin’s Caye? We plan to spend 5-7 days in PV, the head to Bocas for the remaining 2-3 days before returning to SanJose to catch a flight back to the states. If you have time Bluff Beach is beautiful and stretches for miles or hike around Isla Bastimentos if it’s not too muddy or rainy.
The San Blas islands are TOTALLY incredible and you can’t miss them if you go to Panama!


Ok so Bocas Town is fun but it’s very much a party town, and there are no good swimming beaches there. If we decide to go to CR, will definitely consider purchasing your book, I am certain it’s very informative! Since then I've lived with my home on my back in over twenty countries, become a certified yoga teacher, and discovered the true meaning of happiness. Rooms have air conditioning and hot water showers, but the real joy is laying in a hammock or on one of the many plush sofas while staring at the ocean. Stewed lentil, grilled meat, fried chicken, and empanadas are sold cafeteria style and priced by the weight. We did not this time, but I definitely plan to go to Cayes Zapatillos and Dolphin’s Caye next time. As far as where else to stay I’m sorry but I only know the places listed in this article.
My husband and I would like to spend 2 months total in Central American and have narrowed it down to Panama planning on one month on the Pacific side and one on the Caribbean side in Jan-March 2017 but we don’t want to spend a month in the rain with only a handful of sunny days!
We looked there as there is a Spanish immersion school there and some decent rentals but not on the beach (the nicer ones were not on the beach, I mean…we are looking for a 2 bedroom apt or condo with fully equipped kitchen). I heard that a few years ago the flooding was so bad that Changinola became an island and no one could cross the border?!
I experienced my first earthquake while in Bocas, shaken and tossed out of my sleep in the middle of the night. You will meet lots of people if you stay in a hostel The transportation is easy to Costa Rica’s Caribbean from Bocas and you can book it through any hostel or tour agency. Rig Wraps Truck wraps, boat wraps Jacksonville headquarters for vehicle wraps is in Jacksonville Florida. For days it was nothing but a deluge, to the point that I seriously began to question if the entire island was going to go down and me with it. Once the shore streets began to flood, I decided enough was enough and I hiked to the airport early one morning – desperate for the first flight out to Panama City. I will never forget the magical time I spent in Bocas (and the dreamy boy that came along with the experience)…here’s to hoping Bocas works its magic in your heart this time around too!



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