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Gian Milan Previous Member   wanting to put the bottles in a wooden template, there is the opportunity to fill them with polyurethane.
If you use the bottles to stop requiring that make noise, they shall be fitted with silicone or glue.
In addition to the required weight of the boat, be sure to calculate the weight of the load. Location: mississippi OK i figured i can get 18 cubic ft of blue Styrofoam into the sides of the boat and at around 55 lbs of resistance per cubic ft i will have right at a 1000 lbs of resistance.will this be enough to keep the boat in question safely afloat?
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
In case you have not been following along I just finished building a new kayak and I kept close track of the costs and the labor to build it.
Short Shot has always been an under appreciate design.  At sixteen and half feet and with better resistance numbers than most of my designs I had expected great things from this design but sales were always slow at best.
A lot of people are attracted to these boats because of the low cost.  I wanted to see what the low end would be so I created a column with just the minimum parts.
Since the last update I have installed the bronze rub strips, deck bungee and perimeter lines.
I am going to do another blog and break down the costs and talk about some of my choices for this boat.
With the painting now done all that is left is deck rigging and adding the brass rub strips. I ended the stitching by just wrapping it around the end of the boat so that is just out of sight.
I wanted to post my chart of the time and cost so far.  I still have to adjust a couple of the cost figures, so this will change a little bit. I decided to take the easy way out and I bought two cans of spray polyurethane rather than have to brush on the poly. I am about to start skinning and I remembered to weight the frame, I think it is showing 23.5 lbs but I am going to call it 24 lbs. Since I don’t have to tie it off, cut a new length of sinew, tie the stopper knot and then start lashing 9 times I have found it is MUCH faster. I just started a building a redesigned Short Shot, for my wife, so I have decided to keep track of the time and costs of building this boat and document the building process too. For example I managed to cut all the frames from scraps lying around the shop I have been saving. As you can see from the photos, I have the frames made, the stringers cut and scarfed and glued. Last of of August I was invited to the Chincoteague Bay Field Station, in  Wallop Island, VA to teach a Road Scholar class where each student builds a Fuselage Frame kayak for themselves.
Being a Road Scholar program the staff has also scheduled in field trips such as kayaking, exploring a private beach and educational classes.
Sunday night I meet with my students, Parker does the introductions and goes over all the formalities and instructions for the coming week. This is where we stopped at lunch, it doesn’t appear we have much done but it is actually a good start. By the forth day, they were all starting to get a little tired from the pace they had been keeping. Don lived close by and decided to pass on the launching and so not soil the paint since he wanted to do some custom work on it.. Gabe and Tara, my most excellent assistants for the week, loaded up the boats on their trailer and we headed the NASA docks to launch. The smiles on their faces said it all! My camera had started acting up and I didn’t get to take any photos of us outside the harbor.
Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) also known as blue board or pink board comes in many different thicknesses and edge profiles. Cost = This product is the middle of the road for these types of foam board insulation products.
Polyisocyanurate also known as polyiso is seen in all kinds of commercial building applications and more recently with residential building projects. Cost = Polyiso is the most expensive of the foam board insulation products however it’s the highest R value.
Rigid insulation has a high R-value per inch, so it’s a practical solution for a high R-value where space is limited. They can’t be retrofitted into existing walls without removing the drywall, and are susceptible to the same air-leakage problems as fiberglass batts and blankets.
They can’t be retrofitted into existing walls without removing the drywall, and are susceptible to the same air-leakage problems as fiberglass batts. We'd be happy to talk with you about which insulation product would be the best fit for your home. From the very beginning, my husband and I were impressed with the professionalism and expertise of Building Doctors owner and founder, Dan Thomsen.
Location: Ithaca, NY Kells 23 strawler conversion A friend gave me a Kells 23 sailboat, it's a bit like a Catalina 22, but with a glassed-in 750 lb shoal draft keel. If you want to avoid dump fees, use the same saw blade to cut up small chunks to put in the trash, for the next year or so. Location: Ithaca, NY Here's a pic of the rotten plywood and the fiberglass skin peeling up.
I wish garbage collection was free, we pay to put a tag on every can, so the dump might actually be cheaper. This could be converted into a harbor launch, a putt putt or a displacement power cruiser, but it's a bit of work. PAR has it right, chop out the rotten stuff and replan it or jigsaw it into litle bits and dump. Location: Eustis, FL I would recommend you use remote steering and controls, as the boat's balance wouldn't like you standing at it's stern with a tiller steer setup.
Location: Eustis, FL It's important to support the boat properly , before you remove too much structure, as the hull can distort and ruin it's shape. For a powerboat, you'll want two longitudinal stringers (1x6's) from the transom, running as far forward as the hull will permit (likely ending near the aft face of a V berth). Location: Ithaca, NY I was going to cut the cap and keep both flanges, and install side decks on top. There were no stringers or vertical structures here, just a plywood sub-floor that rotted out. Will three overlapping layers of 6" 6oz biax be enough, or would you use 12oz on the stringers? Location: Eustis, FL The deck cap flange may be glued in position, though considering the era of the boat, it's probably just screwed together with sheet metal screws over a bed of butyl rubber sealant.
Location: Ithaca, NY From looking at the inside and outside, it appears the top cap was epoxied at the flange. Contact Dermatitis » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Boat restoration advice sought.
I felt the styling was part of the problem and I have long thought about redesigning it to look more traditional and this was the motivation I needed.

I had a lot of scrap plywood and other odds in ends in the shop from other projects I had saved, so my cost to build wouldn’t reflect your cost. As long as you take reasonable care and don’t store in the sun or where it will stay wet and rot, your can probably pass it on to you kids or grand kids.
I have done it enough that it is just instinct, so I am going to be able to build one faster than most people, especially if it is your first time. Short Shot is a multi-chine boat and that takes a little longer to lash all those stringers. I hated that it took at least 3 weeks longer than it should have to get it finished, But a nasty sinus infection that took two rounds on antibiotics kept me out of the shop.
Labor ended up at  46 hours 17 minutes, Of course I have built a lot of these so you should expect to spend a bit more than that. Mean time I can tell you I did some quick figuring and by skipping some of the items like the Redfish Seat, brass rub strips, etc.
The client (my wife) wanted a two-tone paint job which is no big deal, done several of those. There was one section right at the coaming that was slightly off but overall it looked great and that one section was an easy fix.
Looks like I will miss that, I am going to add about another pound with all the rigging but that is still pretty close to what I was hoping for. FROG is term I coined because everyone always takes they finished frames out and takes a photo of it in the yard.So much so that is practically a requirement on my forum now.
I quickly realized this was going to be a mess so I cut a piece of 1″ dowel and wrapped the sinew around it. I estimated a couple of those figures so that may change a little.  That includes so far, plans, plywood, cedar for the stringer and sinew. His values seemed high to me and I realized he was counting some things other than just his materials. If you have to go buy it, a sheet of plywood is about $50 in most places so I will use that figure. I decided to try the Double Corded Stitch for the first time in a class and that was a good choice.
I would have used my phone but there was at least 20 mph winds blowing and I wanted both hands on the paddle! I must admit this phase of the project has really intimidated me and I every time I come down and start working on it, I ended up staring at it, wondering how am I going to fix that bottom?
Building sauceboat ramps whether you are building angstrom rage for your private practice Beaver State in.
The basic types of foam board insulation are expanded polystyrene, extruded polystyrene, and polyisocyanurate unfaced or foil faced. This insulation board is probably one of the most widely used foam board insulation products in the residential construction industry. They need to be meticulously installed to limit gaps and air leaks, and they’re slightly more expensive than alternatives. He was always available to answer our numerous questions prior to our doing the work and during the energy improvements. I had the boat checked out at the marina (unfortunately after doing the registration paperwork), and the mechanic said I should throw it away. Throwing away the boat will cost money at the dump, but I should be able to recoup some from recycling or selling the sailing bits. I've seen some neat terminal trawlers, sprawlers, etc, and this looks like it would be a good hull for a project like that. Hack out what's bad, make a simple sidedeck to support the sheer, maybe a small cuddy cabin with a helm on the aft bulkhead. In fact those photos show recognisable ply as opposed to the 'dust' I found in the footwell of a 10 year old 2.4 Meter recently!.
If the basic hull is still good and stiff despite minor areas of core repair it maybe worth doing. These are easy to rig as a home made system, or you could spring for a factory made system.
This often is simple a set of female station molds, say 3 or 4 along the length of the boat, attached to the trailer or building cradle. I don't recommend cutting this flange, because it offers a great deal of stiffness to the sheer.
I'm assuming the cleats can be out of 1x1s, but then I wouldn't want to screw through that, right? Yes, the liner does seem to float in space, but all the curves and angles within it, are attached at the rail, greatly stiffening it up. Problem was, none of the boats in my stable really suited her, so I needed to build her one.. Instead of keeping tack of what I spent, I kept track of all the materials and prices for these items. But the learning curve is short and most people will be able to get reasonable close to these numbers. I have people tell me quite regular that spend about 60 hours on their boat and this seems like a reasonable number to me. They are pushed along with the current and not paddled long distances on flat water, so the high resistance is not an a problem.
This is my wife’s new boat and I was trying hard to get it done in time for her to take it for a paddle. But then she told me she wanted a third color, a black stripe between the yellow and white. On the ends I trim the fabric and staple it in place with stainless staples.  This will all be covered the with bronze rub strip (stemband) screwed in place. Therefore there is a lot more wood in this frame than a typical single chined boat.  By the time it is skinned and rigged I expect it will be pushing 35 lbs.
My only concern was if a lashing breaks or is damaged and having nothing to stop it from coming undone. I don’t count the strongback because it is not part of the boat and it can be taken apart and recycled for another use. In the course of the discussion I realized that prices have raised enough that my low end figure of $300 was probably not realist for most people. So, I decided to keep track of two costs, actual costs and what it would have cost me if I had to buy it. I didn’t keep track of my time cutting the frames since I did those a couple of weeks ago but because I cut so many I have gotten really quick at it. So, the next couple of days we did some kayaking and went beach combing on Wallops Island, which is a Military base. That is a tough maiden voyage but it went very well and the boats looked great on the water.  We paddled around for about an hour and I think no one was any happier than me! I started by installing some bracing to assure the boat holds it’s shape as I tear it apart. This product is also used to insulate the outside of foundation walls and even under slabs.

The reflective foil facing makes it an excellent insulation board when radiant heat is involved.
This can lead to a couple of disadvantages including: off gassing of HCFC or CFC gases, and reduced R Value over time as the gas escapes.
Cut the cap, remove the bulk of it, then slice off the cap's flange, leaving the hulls portion intact.
The hull looks like it had a vertical element in this location anyway, so it'll want this support. All of the molded-in furniture was suspended off the hull and not providing structure to the hull in any way. Also avoid the combo fabrics, like 1208, as they are biax stitched to mat, which just wastes resin and adds little strength. I'd still remove the deck cap portion of the flange, if only to insure it's not going to leak (pretty common on this type of flange).
1) I want know what is happening in American society 2) I want to build a aluminium ca 10 meters and would like to discuss the projects 3) I must improve my English. But if you are looking for sea kayak to paddle on open flat water you need a little waterline length. I have gotten in an hour here and 30 minutes there, but you don’t get much accomplished that way. As I have said before, the fabric is a little stiff and a little hard to get the needle through but the weave is so tight you can really pull it tight around the frame. I had a lot of the materials in my shop and I have to check on current prices and adjust these. It wasn’t to hard to push it back into shape but I was concerned it would, over time it would get out of alignment. Right off the bat I found it saved a little time because I didn’t have to find my dowel or a block of wood to wrap the sinew around to pull it tight. Of course, I have never had a lashing break in all the boats I have built so I don’t really see this as being a problem. Thinking about costs I started wondered what a ‘well equipped’ kayak, like I typical build for myself costs? The Educators that work with the classes are college grads and most have studied Marine Science or related fields. I thought it must be a Rat Snake but it turned out to be a type of Garter Snake I had never seen. It is used sometimes on commercial buildings for roof and wall panel insulation, where it is typically sandwiched between light gauge metal. Ask someone local (and knowledgeable) who can get a 'hands on' feel of the boat in a non judgemental way ie will tell it as it is.
Plywood or exterior rated OSB will do, with a few stringers (1x2's, 2x4's, etc.) between them, to help hold up unsupported areas and keep the molds in alignment.
Over these stringers, you'll install the plywood sole plates, glued and screwed to the stringers and a perimeter cleat, tabbed to the hull shell along the edges.
Use a 1x2, glued on the flat around the perimeter of the sole, beveling the top so it lands flush. The fastener spacing seems pretty skimpy too, so random leaks would be a reasonably assessment on a boat this old. She is not ready (or willing) to paddle in the cold so unfortunately she will not get to paddle it till next year. I decided the simplest way to stop this was to insert a couple of dowels through the stringer and into the frame.
I give everyone a homework project too.Monday morning we meet in the cafeteria and have breakfast together and get to know each other a bit better. The Field Station works with NASA and is the only group  that gets access to the beach other than those that work or are stationed there. My other educator Gabe, who was off that morning, was involved with an ongoing snake research project on the Island and told me they were a rare site on the Island.
Well, the fiberglass hull seems sound, but the upper layer is just peeling away from the rotted plywood. Most likely, not worth any yard touching but as a personal project doable but only if the hull shell is sound. Although I'm also considering a tiller outboard, leaving the vee berth as a casting deck and a huge and uncluttered self-bailing deck for the rest of the boat. Of course make some access and permit drainage with weep holes, any place water can collect. To remove the old polyurethane, after the screws are pulled, a hot knife or my preferred method, a hot hacksaw blade. Back band feel at a perfect height, new coaming design was very comfortable and despite higher volume, I didn’t bang the paddle as I expected. It’s hard to explain but it felt safer and like I could lean a lot more before it would capsize. I could easily over tighten it and deform the lower coaming ring so I clamped the top ring of the coaming in place and then tightened it. I have always been a little concerned about lashing all the joints instead if lashing them one at a time but I decided to give it try.
This year we were building 3 kayaks, two of my Vardo design and a one Ravenswood.  Once in the classroom I get everyone assigned to their stations.
I'm not sure how to get a look at all of it, save cutting out the molded in furniture (galley, dinette, etc). I have a hacksaw blade I've attached to a wooden handle and I heat it with a torch, then work it along the seam by hand. When I got up to the steam table I realized that actually there was just enough for a couple more people. This allows me to feel what's getting cut and the glowing hot blade slides right through the cured goo. I had heard lots of ideas tossed around during the week, but when it comes down to the wire you never know what they will go with.  Don seemed to go the safe route with white, but he had some big ideas for paint once he got home. It shouldn’t have surprised me because that is just typical of the way everything is done here.
So he just wanted to white base coat and has promised to send me photos of the finished product. It's usually necessary to glue a 1x2 along the top edge of these, so you have a wide enough area for gluing the sole. Since we were a day ahead Wallis and Jim wanted to stain their frame as well as the coaming. Masses time to let your wisdom spring forth We live on the shore of Lake Erie and our back thou ends in a steel seawall which.

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