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Originally Posted by Danielsan As I went more into research I ran into Resin Infusion techniques. Give a call to Conyplex in Medemblik (Netherlands) or more local, Etap, maybe you can get a tour in their factory?? You're absolutely right, but I meant "the vacuum cleaner and plastic bag" as for describing the process as easy as possible! Location: Belgium (Europe) Damn, now I did by a brand new one and you tell me that it won't work?
PS question for Dutch Peter, do you know some company selling Z(stern)drives for good price in Holland? Originally Posted by Danielsan Damn, now I did by a brand new one and you tell me that it won't work? Originally Posted by Danielsan PS question for Dutch Peter, do you know some company selling Z(stern)drives for good price in Holland? Brands Composites also have a hot spray that sets very quickly for lightly glueing different layers of glass to each other, thus avoiding the problem of having the layers shifting out of place when your working on putting the package in place. If you want to be really sure that your not going to have to throw away a badly finished product: go for handlay up with slow setting resins and apply vacuum techniques after laminating.
Location: Cancun Mexico The Gougeon Brother book on boat construction does not speak a single word about resin infusion. For just a SINGLE simple small boat it's too much technics compared to the small strength gain and the very big risk of mess with loss of costly materials. For a shipyard it's a very different thing and resin infusion is an excellent method, when well mastered.
I would rather spend this money for the best diesel engine, a 2 speed gearbox, a perfectly matched propeller, nice fittings and for all these delicious luxuries that make a boat so expensive.
So Daniel, the sincere advise is, if you want to investigate into the infusion world: borrow an adequate vacuumpump, buy the right bleeders and rovings, and just try a small panel for starters. The method is primarily adapted for a ship yard which will amortize the investment in tooling, material and learning step. For the hull itself the infusion method needs good strong molds unaffordable for the amateur building just one hull. I wanted just to point the fact que for a first timer working on his first project which is a simple small and surely cheap boat (to start with a small day boat is a very wise decision from him), it's better to begin by the very beginning, which is to learn and master the technique of hand layed glass composite. It seems useless to me that an amateur (a nice term, it means in french: who loves something) at his first project starts with an investment of material out of proportion with the budget of his small boat. So the dream description was a ironic one and voluntarily exagerated about technique and costl escalade. When (if) I have the possibility of making my dream oneoff, I'd use Sprint if I could afford it.
Sure the material as such is expensive but learning to setup and use an infusionsystem is not cheap either. Preimpregnated fibers are UD or clothes impregnated with a high modulus epoxy resin which needs high temps for curing. The shipyard Multiplast has a oven of 50 m (about 165 feet) able to cook a complete hull or a mast. The lone problem is to find prepegs at retail, the price is high (in 1989 about 100 US$ a pound of carbon prepeg).
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
Location: Brisbane OK, idkfa, I have posted it on rapidshare, can you tell me how to let you know how to get to it, I cannot see how to do it. Location: The Netherlands There somewhere must be a link to the file or the download page, you can spread that link around (or post it here). Originally Posted by Landlubber OK, idkfa, I have posted it on rapidshare, can you tell me how to let you know how to get to it, I cannot see how to do it. Location: Brisbane Thanks Apex, there are a few people here that would like to get to that file. Originally Posted by Landlubber Thanks Apex, there are a few people here that would like to get to that file.


Move both heli-tube epoxy supply line to lay on top of the edge of the infusion media, equally distant from the part. Dry fiberglass cloth is layered into the mold and laminators cover the mold with clear plastic material. Infusion boat building methods are increasingly being used in production facilities including those of several popular Florida fishing boat brands. The most popular method of fiberglass hull construction—dating back to the 1940s—is open-molding, where layers of fiberglass are wet out with catalyzed resin. A newer method, closed-molded resin infusion (sometimes referred to as vacuum infusion), allows for more precision. The placement of the tubes on the bag depends on the lay-up schedule, the complexity of the mold and the various cores used.
The closed-molded infusion process is more expensive than traditional, hand-laid open-molding, but for some builders the benefits outweigh the cost.
Strategically placed plastic tubes pull a vacuum while additional plastic tubes deliver catalyzed resin. Other manufacturers, like Stuart Boatworks, are also using infusion but for a different reason. Watching the process through the clear plastic, builders are able to monitor the distribution of resin as it saturates the fiberglass cloth. No overspray from a wet-out or chopper gun makes cleanup quicker, plus the working conditions for employees are safer and more comfortable (good news for builders reckoning with ever-increasing EPA restrictions on styrene emissions). Turnaround time for the mold is cut significantly with the infusion process, which increases the throughput of the plant without sacrificing consistency. At the same time, many boat manufacturers continue to use open molds with the hand-laid process. But as the boating industry continues to evolve and the government cracks down on regulations for the environment, we expect that resin infusion will gain in popularity. Location: Iroquois, Ontario Serial Resin Infusion Boat Hull I've been scouring Youtube for resin infusion vids of boat hulls.
I think it's much more simple than some of the hull infusions I've seen on Youtube where there's tens of feed lines & tens of vacuum channels laid in the hull.
The complexity of the vacuum manifold (for lack of a better term) is no more complicated than 10 or 11 T's spliced into a line. The vacuum lines don't need all those valves, they can stay open provided you have a decent resin brake zone at the edges. Location: Iroquois, Ontario I was trying to model the hull in Sketchup but my drafting skills aren't up to it. If I infused the keel separately then sealed it over I'd have one turn at the chines to the gunnels. When sequentially opening the feeds, you must wait until the resin front completely passes the next feed line, BEFORE you open it, other wise you trap a dry spot just behind the next feed, where the front has not passed yet. Location: Florida Since I have seen resin flow with no signs of slowing to the center of an 8' panel and since I infused my 22' x 8' inwards I would be tempted to infuse this inward in three sections similarly. Complicated technics are useful only when you truly need them, otherwise it'is pure gadget.
As I remember the tooling and a reliable vacuum pump (it won't work with a modified fridge compressor as for old vacuum hand layed) are not truly cheap for an amateur. An avanced home builder may have interest also to use it specially if making a racing boat like a Mini Trasat 6.50 where weight savings and high quality are primordial. The shipyard Tecimar who was one of the pioneers of this method, had big problems and costly failures before getting the experience needed to go to hulls. After the first one, if he is interested by building another boat more ambitious and better built, the infusion method will be worth. Well, some manufacturers see it as the next step in the evolution of fiberglass boat building. Workers commonly referred to as laminators use hand rollers and brushes to squeeze out the air trapped within the fiberglass cloth.
The mold is loaded with layers of dry fiberglass cloth, as well as carbon fiber or Kevlar, depending on the lamination schedule.


The resin is then pulled into the mold, under the clear plastic, and through the layers of fiberglass cloth by a vacuum that is introduced to other plastic tubes attached to the bag.
With precise control over the resin-to-cloth ratio, structural components built using infusion methods may be stronger yet lighter than those laid-up by hand. Alex Leva, Hydra-Sports President, said, “Infusion is the natural evolution in leading edge technology in the boat building industry.
Bob Chew, Stuart Boatwork’s President, wanted to increase the strength of his 25-foot center console hull to handle the demands of the unforgiving rental market over in the islands.
Skilled laminators can produce hulls which hold up amazingly well over time, judging by the number of 30- and 40-year old fiberglass hulls still running strong on Florida waters. Already, some manufacturers are using infusion for the construction of mission- specific models within their line, while others have switched over entirely to the infusion process.
Most mfgr's infuse the inside of a boat hull from the bottom of the keel up to the gunnels. On a large infusion there's always a lot of risk involved, not just the money, but the requirement for a consistent fully infused part.
They're usually opened in sequence which requires a half dozen guys on hand to coordinate it.
When your boat has chines and places with abrupt changes in direction, the resin often races down those areas faster than the rest of the laminate.
I've thought of race tracking in these areas but never having done anything this size I have no experience with it. It's expensive but doesn't leave appreciable print on the finished laminate and it's easy to apply it on those vertical surfaces. The basic investment may represent a big percentage of the materials of a simple 7.5 m bare hull and will permit just to make the flat pieces.
This process can be messy and consistency depends on the human element, the laminator using the proper amount of resin.
The dry laminate layers are then covered with a clear, bag-like material that is sealed to the top of the mold flange with two-sided tape. Also, many small parts, such as consoles, storage compartments, livewells, and top caps are still built today with tried-and-true open molding. The problem with your strategy, is that should this occur, you have a big problem towards the end of the infusion and a dry spot encircled with resin at the bottom of the hull near the bow.
I did get some on a smaller part I made when the fabric bridged from the foam core to the tooling surface. Started at the bottom of the keel, the second feed would be a ring around the top of the keel. Flow media placed strategically under the plastic bag, covering the mold, aids in the distribution of the resin flow that enters the bag through a series of plastic tubes. The rest seperated at appropriate intervals depending on your resin viscosity and flow media.
Then another ring around this on the hull bottom, and so on, until you get to the outer chine. And before you go infusing a large object to have to make some tests, because you want to be sure you have enough viscosity during the whole infusion process. These flow tubes are attached to a manifold that controls the delivery of the catalyzed resin. Under a full vacuum gravity has absolutely no affect on the pull (most are done bottom to top) which is towards the vacuum. Once you get the layup done and the bag on and pull it down there's a lot less chance you'll have to go inside to find a leak.



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