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Originally Posted by wooky30014 Tunnels, the bog recipe makes perfect sense now, I knew about the adding a little talc and aerosil at a time and yes absolutely a plastic container. On my boat it looks like I'll have to put a second set of stringers on the outer strakes and a keel board (didn't have them there before nor a keel board). And Stuee, thanks for letting piggyback a little here as I think we both have our work cut out for us So what are you doing with those stringers ??
Foam stringers distribute load better over a wider area so with the right glass layup you get a stiffer bottom with less movement !
Location: East of Atlanta Ga It's a 19 ft SeaBird open runabout, a step down walkway between the seats in the cockpit helm, Volvo 270 drive with a Chrysler Slant 6, I was thinking of changing the motor to either an inline Volvo 4 cyl, also with a 270 drive, that a friend of mine has or look for a V6 that would fit it. Originally Posted by wooky30014 It's a 19 ft SeaBird open runabout, a step down walkway between the seats in the cockpit helm, Volvo 270 drive with a Chrysler Slant 6, I was thinking of changing the motor to either an inline Volvo 4 cyl, also with a 270 drive, that a friend of mine has or look for a V6 that would fit it. Oh, the drawings are not to scale and the dark areas in the smaller ones are the bilge drains why dont you consider a out board on a bracket outside and gain some more floor space and its lighter and the boat is going to go faster and be much more usable .
Originally Posted by wooky30014 Tunnels, an outboard is a possibility and would allow more walking room, only reason I haven't given it much thought is already having the Volvo, I'll have to look into that, would changing over have any effect on the rated HP of the hull I think max is 165 The best bracket to get would be the one that also incorperates a boarding plateform as well will bring it really up to date and really much more usable and distrubute the loads over the whole transom not just in the middle . Location: East of Atlanta Ga True but it gives me another avenue to check into as far as the power plant, Back to the hull, putting 4 stringers as in your drawing might work better as well for floor support, let me get something straight, other than the stringers nothing else should be glassed to the hull ? You could need to be in the hull for a few hours grinding so its 99% clean and clear of crap so the glass witll stick properly !!


Location: East of Atlanta Ga Yea, I tend to measure everything twice then again just before cutting what kind of foam are you talking about vs 2X8 or laminated ply ?
Im happy to see the pic of your boat as it makes me feel im not the only one in this situation.
Some of the buldings i was able to work on in Japan were close to 600 years old The old houses are called Minka and they are works of art how they are held together !! When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. The interior is on two levels, and the entry is halfway between the two accommodation levels.
One of the best features of the stateroom is the fireplace at the bow-end, enclosed by the wrap-around stairway.
The boat will cost from $25 up, and a fit one for two persons $50 or more, in all probability.
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We are also very proud of our long-term working relationships with regulatory classification surveyors and flag state representatives, engineering firms and shipyards, a valuable asset in achieving a successful result for your project. Clients from North, South, and Central America, Europe, and the South Pacific have entrusted their yacht build or refit project to DFD. Recently I got ahold of another boat for the hardtop and windshield and cut the entire cuddy cabin off of it, the rest of it was rotten so it was scrapped.
Is best to put down a wide glass pad to help stiffen the hull bottom and for the new stringers to be glassed on top of the new glass with a wide pad all the new framing is on new glass so adhession shouldnt be a problem .old inboards have oil and diesel spills and getting glass to stick is a major and its usually from end to end where its been in the bilge sloshing about for years so clean up is the most important thing other than you breathing .


For the keel stringer you have mentioned s 50x75, can you recommend any wood for that as or would i just use 3 pieces of marine ply sandwiched?
Would it make sense to prepare the stringers and a couple of bulkheads then get them all setup and sealed, then temp screw them and glass strip tack them all together so i can lift out after then bog etc and place it all on top. With glass stringers they will last the life time of the boat and never have to ever do them again !!
After looking at your sketch I'd probably be better off putting 4 stringers instead of just the 2 to support the floor.
1 piece of wood would make life easier [nothing in particular just the size wtih the corners rounded so you can glass over easy and not get air bubbles aling the edges > radus about the size of a 5 cent coin . After the pics were taken I cut the tops off the stringers to remove all the rotten wood in them. 150x50 , 200x50 , and even 300x50 were the sizes of beams i used on my deck at home just pinned the ends with 100 mm flat headed nail each end !!
Like I said before I'm still in the planning stages of this since putting the project on hold.
Like I said I'm open to suggestion on this project and just in the planning stages right now, I've done a little bit of glass work but nothing major like this before.
Thanks for your help with this, want to do it right as I can ONCE I'll get a pic of the cuddy in the morning, measurements I've taken say it should fit and I have not cut any on the 'Bird's deck cap yet. Its a part of the boat gets wet and stays wet vertually forever or untill the floor gets ripped out to replace rotten and wet wood .




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