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Location: Milwaukee, WI Another area to find that type of vessel is NE Brazil. Location: New Zealand 40' x 16' scow Forty foot box with ends courtesy of Alma. Location: New Zealand Freeship Tillicum Had a good run with the 'puter today, and got a developable set of lines done. Location: New Zealand Stringers Got these done today, will get onto the chine logs tomorrow. Location: USA Scows, in general The Wooden Boat Magazine has an on-line store that has building plans for a scow schooner in the 45 foot length.
What I ended up with was a 20 x 7 ft gaff sloop that is essentially half decked with an aft house for the cabin.
Attached are the sketches and, if possible, the essay on how the rocker is drawn and how the boat is proportioned and why. Location: New Zealand Scow project Got the sides done this afternoon, and sat the shear log in there too.
Will have to sort the bow and stern out too, before I get too carried away decking it over. The computer is starting to groan and creak now when I bring up all the layers at the same time. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. I was wondering if I could get a bit of feedback, or a few questions I have answered about building a small ( 4' x 11') flat bottom boat.
If I make no seats in the boat, will just the epoxy coating and the 'but joints' with cloth be strong enough? From a structural stand point, not having a midship thwart and a bow piece (breast hook, foredeck or thwart) the sides of the boat will likely flop around a good bit.
It would be possible to have a small thwart at each end of the boat with reinforced sheer clamp and maybe a topside stringer, to provide the open layout you desire. Location: maine A 4 foot wide boat as described would have quite a wide bottom, and it's strength (to resist transverse flexing) would be achieved by having a reasonable amount of rocker or making the seats full boxes for flotation and a set of transverse beams.
In your case, wanting to have a clear open area, you can't just modify an existing plan without help from someone knowledgable. PAR will, I'm sure, provide you with a good set of plans or modify to suit, but by all means maske sure the bottom is rigid enough and that the connection to the sides is well braced. In the future, I may purchase plans and modify them to suit my own design, but for this first project, I think I'm going to just go with this basic design and consider purchasing plans in the future for something a bit more complex, even though I have questions about this 'simple' design! One of the goals of this little project is to just keep it as simple and cheap as possible for now. In the attached picture, there is the rough outline and dimensions, as well as the proposed 'skeleton' of the boat made from 2x2s. I would be putting cloth and epoxy on the outside and inside of all seams, but should the entire boat surface be coated as well, or just the seams? Again, the boat will be used for shallow, calm water, and will have rub strips along the underside for added stability and for protection from rocks etc. Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada At the very least put a bit of curvature in the bottom as it will help stiffen it and prevent oil-canning. A bit of a curve will do the same thing for the sides: they do not have to come all the way in to a point at the bow. It is actually easier to do it this way than the way you have sketched: ply bends easily and it will save you have to make joints that are strong enough and waterproof.
Use seats as frames, and hide flotation in them Three cavities, both bow and stern shelves and the center thwart (seat). Location: Ontario Hey, It's been awhile, and I thought I'd update this thread with what I ended up doing. First, thank you to everyone who gave their advice and input in this thread, it was much appreciated, and much needed.

I decided not to put seats in it, because I want the space for carrying things I have in it, but I included a 2x2 across the top and bottom near the middle of the boat.
I have more pictures I could show, but it seems that I'm at my size limit here with the 3 pics I've already posted in this thread. Anyways, I wanted to come back to say thanks, and also to show you guys what I ended up doing. Boat design, specs, specifications, and deck plans for the Broward 120 Raised Pilothouse Yacht. Boat design, specs, specifications, and deck plans for the Outer Reef 80 Raised Pilothouse. 703-670-6900 · We were looking for a slip for our boat and found the staff to be friendly and spoke sincerely on the care that they have for our boat. Location: usa George Buehler designs what are your thoughts on George Buehler designs?
With the rare exception, his sail designs we un-Godly slow in all but moderate gale conditions.
If interested in the same salty styling and simple build techniques as George Buehler's work, drop me an email.
My point isn't to put George down, quite the contrary, his books and work helped opened up a new revival in building and some of his boats are as salty as they get. Location: nation of Ohio Think Pilgrim is the best boat George ever designed.
The rest of the diesel ducks are completly contrary to what he claims he is trying design-low, lean, and long fuel efficient passagemakers.
This blog can guide you in choosing the best wooden boat plans available over internet and can give you some tips as well. A boathouse (or boat house) is a building especially designed for the storage of boats, normally smaller craft for sports or leisure use. My Woodworker's Supply~Finest woodworking supplies, wooden boat plans, bunk bed plans, bird house plans, wooden toy plans, Grizzly tools & much more!
Based on the element of water, the Lake Boat house can be built on the water with a covered boat slip, or near the water with an adjacent boat slip or garage. The Cedarshed Boat House is a small multi-purpose boat shed offering plenty of storage room for canoes, kayaks, lawn mowers and more. Parker has some interesting plans for a 44' (if I remember correctly) sailing scow in his book. They will capsize in the right conditions and do not have the ability to recover from much more than a 90 degree knockdown.
I changed the proportions a bit by making the Beam smaller in relation to the Length and by keeping the Rocker in proportion to the Length. Flotation chambers would be built along the sides and there would be a raised deck in the bow (for storage of bicycles).
I could imagine living aboard such a craft and just knocking about the Gulf Coast (lots of sand there, I understand.) The boat would be narrow enough for legal trailering and could be taken to other suitable cruising grounds.
The 'Puddle Duck Racer' class has been in existence since 2003 and a lot of experimentation has been done with these boats. That means the model has been turned into a nest of spiky lines stretching to infinity again". You could make one from your own design and it would perform to some expectations, but you could also get a set of plans (I have low cost plans for just the boat you describe) that will optimize the shapes, keep it simple to build and answer your questions about how thick things need to be, plus where to precisely put them. I've spent a bit of time reading the forum and looking at other 'jon boat' plans on the net, and I've modified my initial design.
Does this plan look stable enough now, or are the few 'extra' transverse beams that I've now included overkill since it will be epoxied? The entire underside would be epoxied of course, but does the entire inside need it as well, or just the seams?
Curvature can make the ply act as if it was twice as thick, without the weight and cost, and it will go faster and smoother.

If you make the front plate (pram transom) slope a bit the boat won't come to an abrupt stop when you run into a wave form a bigger boat (see PDRacer again).
Well, I realized that my square design that I had initially come up with wasn't going to cut it, so I took the advice to make some curves in it. I used a lot of epoxy on the bottom, more than I should have, but it was my inexperience at 'fiberglassing' that caused me to use so much. The idea here is a very small and well ballasted Ah, that perspective drawing clarifies things. I can offer plans that use very similar techniques, but without the weight penalty and the cost of heavy displacement construction (build costs can be directly related to displacement).
His sailboat shapes (with a few exceptions) are very poor performers, though they will handle quite a load and sink fairly uniformly as they take on stores, which is good for a cruiser. Last Updated (Tuesday, 22 March 2011 11:49) Written by James Sunday, 21 February 2010 12:33 Building a boathouse? This thread is really interesting in that I think many people, myself included, have entained building a sailing scow, or scow houseboat at one time or another.
A trio of them recently participated in the 'Texas 200' and sailed up the Texas gulf coast. I upped the processor priority for the Freeship programme before I started, so I hope that is helping. I plan to put narrow 'runners' on the bottom of the boat for extra stability and protection from rocks etc.
I know it dries very hard, but I want to know if the way I'm picturing doing it will be ok.
An added benefit would be better performance from the little outboard and improved maneuverability as a result of the shapes employed in the design.
Most ply boats have a stiffening member along the top (sheer) of the side planks which is called a gunnel. These designs will easily out perform the shapes George uses and still have the built like a tank mentality he has made famous. His powerboat shapes are slightly better, but still not in keeping with many of the modern innovations we've learned in recent decades.
You can have a stout hull that will show it's stern post to most that try to keep up, plus have the hull volume to drag along all the stuff you need. However as a liveaboard and to sail in the aforementioned protected waters, they are a reasonable choice. So far, all input to the thread appears to be quite positive and helpful to those interested. They did surprisingly well despite being arguably over loaded and way out of their element.
You may find that it will be fairly easy to twist it without any bulkheads to give it rigidity so a couple of knees from side to bottom might be in order to help with this. I am in the process of designing a boat for myself which has many of the characteristcs of a scow but has ballasted bilge keels to provide stability in a knockdown. 4 hp is just on the border of enough to get you planning if the boat is light enough but I bet not so internal framing is not so necessary. My design owes quite a lot to the English Thames Barges and there is a modern interpretation of these being built in steel in Norfolk, England by Charley Ward.
Many of his designs have internal concrete ballast, how about a boat with a reinforced concrete bottom to just above the waterline, and composite wood topsides and deck??

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