Pontoon boat rental gulf shores 36542

Atlanta wooden boat association membership
Location: Florida Cover the existing boxes with 12 mm plywood lids, this is probably what they used to have.
Beef up the transom and make it strong , scuff out the inside with a grinder and reglass all the stuff thats inside the hull , 4 mm Ply over the tops ,glass both sides so it will last longer . Find a mean little 9.9 johnson or evinrude ,set up the motor to a good height ,do some measuring when you do the transom to make sure you can mount the motor at the right height , extend the tiller handle about a couple of feet with a piece of plastic pipe , then buy a really good life jacket and a pair of diving gloves , mount on the gunwhales each side a pair of good strong grab handles and you will be flying for sure !!.and i mean flying !!
Originally Posted by Paul A Cover the existing boxes with 12 mm plywood lids, this is probably what they used to have. I have a similar boat we build and sell as a one man boat with 30lb Minkota transom mount trolling motors and they do not sell well due to lack of stability. It is a stripped bass boat hull with the upper casting decks, holding tanks etc etc removed that make boats expensive and impractical if you ask me, although it looks cool??
It is light weight - 155kg without motor - since it has no framing, stringers etc but solid poured in closed cell PU foam sandwiched between the hull and floor, making it immensely strong, solid and unsinkable. In the original post you envisioned two elevated fishing seats and no apparent reservation about engines up to 10 HP. Location: Florida Just because you've had therapy over early boating activity in your lives, doesn't mean you should deprive the same from another, looking at the same path in boating life.
Location: Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada What I would do If other tests did not work out well, this is what I would do. If the fiberglass boat can be put in usable shape easily, I would try any type of square or round pontoons.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Now from what i see on Fountain website, the 35ft are powered by 2x 525 which is a whooole lot of money for me to spend for engines on this project now.
Location: united states My bet is that your one-off wood construction will come out heavier than the fountain deck.
I would resist cutting down a well-engineered stepped fountain hull and losing the step placement. You will need for some of the interior to be structural, the floors and some framing not to mention the transom and knees to the stringers. Do lots of homework and you can end up with a cool project, but a double stepped hull can be a twitchy critter so study up. Location: usa I dont think a lug rig would work very well , but if you left the engines out you could add a poop deck. Location: South Florida USA Go with a center console for sure, make your life much easier and it should keep the boat lighter, no foredeck.
Originally Posted by frank smith I dont think a lug rig would work very well , but if you left the engines out you could add a poop deck.
Does anyone have the weight of a factory fountain center console compared with a closed deck? I wish i knew how to do renderings so i can do some designs that i have in my head and see how it'll look.
Location: MA Any ideas on how to power hull such as this without absolutely breaking the bank? I would also like to toy with the idea of running the diesel as a mid mount engine and using a jackshaft to transfer the drive to the bravo 2 leg at the transom.
I was wanting to get some advice on whether moving the engine this far forward would severly compromise the performance of this hull. Location: Eustis, FL Have you ever sat on a 225 HP diesel engine box before? It would be a whole lot easier to just find another derelict hull, say in the 26' or better 28' range and stop screwing around with this extension idea. I already have someone in my who will be able to assist with the hull extension but was wanting to know whether I would be producing a pig of a boat with mounting the engine in this location (weight wise)?
I am getting conflicting advice like the two replies already (and I really appreciate the insight from both of you). Location: Eustis, FL Again, I'll ask, have you sat on a well ventilated and insulated 200+ HP, turbo diesel engine box? Location: Eustis, FL Yep, it was a few years ago Eric and you were a fan of midship mounts then too. Don't get me wrong, you can do it, but wow are you making things difficult for yourself with the current approach, which still leaves a huge, hot box in the middle of where you want everything else. Pericles View Public Profile View Pericles's Gallery Find all posts by Pericles « Valves on steel hull? Location: Western Massachusetts Design for a Cardboard Boat Race Hi All! A sit-on kayak or surfboard style design made up of multiple laminations of cardboard with the center portion cut out of the upper layers to make a seating area for use with a kayak paddle. As creativity and style may also help determine the winner, any crazy (yet doable) ideas out there? 4'x8' sheets of double corregated cardboard are typically available at cardboard supply houses. I know 4'x12' sheets of heavier construction double corregated are available, but must be ordered ahead of time, atleast around where I live. I (and it's only my person feelings) think this looks like the best little single-sheet boat around.
Guest625101138 Previous Member   If you want to go fast the best boat will be long and slender.
I would look at a central cylinder about 8ft long and 1ft in diameter with cones of similar length to form the bow and stern.
The overall underwater form would not be a lot different to a rowing scull and it should go reasonably well. Location: Western Massachusetts Thanks to all for your well-informed replies. How would you fashion the conical ends to keep them watertight and how would I gain access to the inside of the main tube to fasten the ends to it? I like the idea of the outriggers for stability but how far apart would they need to be to allow clearance for the paddle? If the cardboard wants to crease then place gentle longitudinal creases at about 2" spacing rather than letting it crease uncontrollably.
It really is better to make say a 4ft model out of light cardboard to understand the detail. THis boat will be fully sealed internally so should not get wet inside until the outside gives up. Just because it is cardboard does not mean it cannot be well made and perform as good as a paddled rowing scull. Guest625101138 Previous Member   The seat will ned to be away from the cross-brace to allow full strokes. Guest625101138 Previous Member   The attached shows a cylinder and cone hull made from aluminium. A tail and dorsal fin behind the paddler might complete the picture as riding a menacing looking shark. It would be handy to know if there are other people interested in taking the event seriously. Location: UK, USA and Canada I don't think you want a catamaran or pontoon boat. Originally Posted by bpopbop Can anyone point me in the right direction on design considerations for a basic floating platform that will allow an RV of 25', or Van pulling travel trailer (overall length 25-30') with ramp that allows driving the rig onto the bow without the stern lifting out of the water. Location: Thailand Can any one find a folding trailer barge on the world market in Google search engines or any where else that tows behind a RV that weighs 12 ton but the folding trailer Barge like Myark weighs less than 2 ton and has a width structure of 1m wide and can float in a few inches of water with 12 ton RV on deck.


There is a barge called the Rolling barge but is heavy and wide and takes a long time to assemble and never at any time seen a RV towing let alone driving on top, also its wheels do not come off and drag in the water where the Myarks come off and can plane without the RV on top with a 60HP out bard. I have searched Google and can only find Myark folding trailer barges towed behind a RV that is placed on top. There are other folding barges but they are placed on trailers, still wide and way to heavy.
Here is a photo of that same model, set up as a white water RV,actualy in the Grand Canyon, not a photoshoped fake. This is a bit like it from a post a while back but it still needs to assembled although great to see a RV out in a remote paradise. Originally Posted by myark Can any one find a folding trailer barge on the world market in Google search engines or any where else that tows behind a RV that weighs 12 ton but the folding trailer Barge like Myark weighs less than 2 ton and has a width structure of 1m wide and can float in a few inches of water with 12 ton RV on deck.
Originally Posted by whitepointer23 In one of your posts you said when you took your barge out to an offshore island that it almost sank in waves a few inchs high. Waves look more than a few inches and was 60 miles from land in a small Myark folding trailer barge.
Location: California, USA Dual Width Boat Design My Problem Like many trailer boat owners is that I need a wider boat, but because of width restrictions on trailering this is not an option.
The first attached drawing shows how the design increases and decreases the boat width by rotating sealed side hull extensions that are hinged near their center of balance, so they can be easily rotate by one person, Or they can be rotated with electric motors and locked in place with solenoid pins. To make the boat virtually unsinkable, the hull design uses a self-flushing sealed deck located above the water line. Presently I am retired and not interested in financing a prototype or starting a new business, but I would like to see the concept developed. There are other systems that have been devised for catamarans, including hulls that fold under a central bridge deck (Derek Kelsall), beams that hinge in the middle to allow the boat to collapse together like an A-frame, telescoping beams (Kurt Hughes), and beams that pivot to swing the outer hulls inboard (Quorning's Dragonfly line of trimarans). Location: Australia Plywood Kits without stich and glue I am redesigning a plywood kit I created some time ago. Location: Eustis, FL Chris, you're attempting what many of us have been exploring for some time. The notch and tab technique does require a slight bit more room in the nesting arrangements in the cut file, but does work. As to which is more effective, particularly in light of the others also available, well this is probably pretty subjective, though the zipper seam does let you do both sides of the seam unobstructed. Maybe best not to be stuck on a single system and do what is most suitable for a given boat and part of that boat. This is an experimental project that I under took to help me work out the bugs in the process before moving on to a slightly larger and more complex version.
Location: Lakeland Fl USA OK I assume that we are talking wooden boats here.
Yes we will use a fillet and glass ribbons on the inside when you remove the boat from the forms and turn it upright, with only ribbons on the outside. In all this you have not had to lay out some hopefully correct shape on scarphed panels, drilled a zillion holes, pulled a zillion wires, or eyeballed the wire joined panels into hopefully correct shape.
You get a very good grasp of this method in Tom Hills nice little book; Ultralight Boatbuilding. The alternative to the pain of lofting or laying out a series of S&G panels, if you are determined to use a micky mouse stitch and glue method, is to bite the bullet and buy kits from Chesapeake LightCraft, Guilemott, or other precut panel sellers.
Location: spain I still cant visualize a technique to hold the panels stationary and to shape without some kinda stitch.
Location: Tasmania,Australia The use of tabs to accurately position frames, bulkheads etc is very commendable.
Trying to remove the use use of wire ties etc, just for the sake of it, is not a valid reason in my eyes. Originally Posted by michael pierzga I still cant visualize a technique to hold the panels stationary and to shape without some kinda stitch.
Location: Coastal Georgia I wonder if these might work, they're called hog rings and hog pliers.
It's a planning hull and a 10 HP outboard will make it run well, don't be put off by the negative posts, you're the one that has to live with your decisions. It doesn't need a casting deck that's 125 mm taller then the bottom of the boat, it doesn't need built in ice boxes or other devices, it's just a little boat that will blast along just fine if you keep it light weight, but will wallow like a tub if over loaded. I had noticed a small, about ten foot, jon boat with a tall seat, a big motor and a fat man. Still not 100% sure of what i wanna do with it in regards to fishing or a speed racer but i think I'm leaning more towards the sporty look.
The boat was re enforced for racing, the previous owner was planning to go with additional horsepower and different out drives. Perhaps I should slap a post-it note on the cylinder asking the owner to check in here and enlighten us.
Unfortunately the engine is slightly to long for the current boat and takes up a bit too much deck space, but considering that i have a decent powerplant, i have decided to lengthen the hull by approx 3 feet. Ideally i would love to be able to incorporate the engine box as a back to back helm seat to provide a clear deck space that is free of clutter whilst still providing the reliability and fuel economy of a diesel power plant.
I can't see the bottom of your boat well enough to tell what type of shape it is, but I'll assume it's a warped bottom. It's not a common solution for several reasons, most of which have little to do with CG location, as this can be trimmed as desired with other equipment (tanks, batteries, etc.).
If the engine is aft, on the drive, you'll have tanks under the sole near midship to counter. Most boats in the US have the bottom full of longitudinal wood hull stiffeners like 2x4s, 2x6s ect all glassed in and most boats have at least some rot in the wood. I also think that an extension is a difficult proposition for a skilled back yard builder and very difficult for a novice.
The edges of the laminated cardboard could be sealed using white glue (exterior if possible) covered by a wide strip of suitable tape (what kind would be best?). I guess my original idea was bad in that it would have several long edges of the cardboard (although taped) below the waterline. So I would sit atop the central tube facing forward with my feet held above the water in rope stirrups? It will be better to form the cylinder in its preferred direction of folding but with the cones you will have to work a little across the corrugations.
Rick, could you do a quick sketch to demonstrate the relationship of the parts with the tabs? This might also be a temporary floating foundation for a tiny home on or off a trailer with wheels (ala floating home), anchored off the lake shore in 3-6' of water with little to no current. Let's try and keep the forums enjoyable discussions that everyone can enjoy reading and keep them away from being personal jabs. It occurred to me that what I needed was a Dual Width boat, a boat with a wide hull that can be easily reconfigured to a narrow hull that meets legal towing limits.
My search of patent applications revealed that, although many attempts have been made to design dual width or expanding boats, they all appeared to be too complicated, too expensive, or not rugged enough to be practical.
I use a simple short block of wood, arranged along an edge, which the next panel rests against, before the seam is filleted and tabbed.
The panels were simply hot glued together along the seams on the outside leaving me free to apply a continous fillet and tape join on the inside surface. They are a very useful technique in the right situations, as others have explained very well. It will be fun with a 10 HP on it and you should try it, but I'd try to find a 2 stroke to save weight on the stern. She goes like clappers with only a 15hp outboard and with that motor you do not need a skipper license or COF all any of the money making crap the new boating laws requires.


Clean out the interior, put thin decks on the boat that will enclose all but a small place for the driver.
If you have the money for engines and drives, you can afford a newer design hull that's already rigged and get all the value of the 2nd hand steering, planes, drives, and such. If you have enough deadrise at the transom currently, you could continue the warp or you could just go monohedren from there on back, but damn, this ain't going to be easy Nick.
Trust me, you don't want to sit on this thing without 10" of some of the finest insulation you can get. These old savage hulls were Australian classics and very solidly built and I know this hull is solid as a rock. The connecting inboard propeller shaft will turn at engine rpm and will probably be sensitive to balance. I thought of using the kayak paddle as it on hand and I thought it would be simpler than trying to fabricate oarlocks that would be sturdy enough to last. One of my main concerns would be how to fasten it together; staples wouldn't be much good unless I had access to the back side to clench them. And, sufficient stability to ferry said vehicle in typical 3-5' swells in the Florida intercoastal is a plus. When extended, the side hulls are supported their full length by being seated into a solid groove against a pliable seal strip on the hull sides, so there is no direct force applied against the pivot hinges and latches from the water at high speeds or rough seas. I don't use stitches very much in this type of build, though sometimes they are handy to pull something together.
I find this easy to place the usually 2x2 blocks (temporary attached hot glue or drywall screwed) and I can do most of the seam.
The main difference between our construction tecniques is that I used fiberglass flat sheets instead of plywood for my panels. It is only necessary to use closely spaced holes and lots of ties or wires when pulling together tough bends and when warping or torturing the ply into difficult shapes. I do however already own a kayak and a float tube and have been on many boats, deep sea and on the dam. Try to stand up straight in that boat, or just sit and turn around and I guarantee you bad moments.
Some times people are unfairly taken, but I've noticed that more often then not, these are people everyone else admits were aiming directly at challenging mortality in most of their ventures. My best advise it not to attempt to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear and find a more suitable hull for that monster turbo diesel. The problem with a midship engine, particularity that one, is the physical foot print it has. That's why I recommended the tubular shaft as there are lots of automotive places that can balance that shaft. In other words, it's on or your moving stuff around until it is, regardless of engine location. The price you could get for that turbo diesel would probably cover the outboard and bracket.
But in order to win the overall prize I need to get creative with the above waterline shape and graphics. I could motor to my destination in the narrow configuration, then rotate the extended side hulls out and have the advantages of a wide hull, a larger cabin, walking clearance, extra room for fishing, and better stability in the water.
I have many years of industrial design experience to draw on, so I decided to give it a try. The pliable seal strip prevents water splashing, and also eliminates any vibration or noise from that area.
The advantages of the Dualwidth design is that it can be applied to conventional boats to not only improve stability in the water, but to increase usable deck area. Your notch and tab approach looks like several other accessions to this set of issues, which work best in CNC format, naturally. Your technique, means the whole inside seam can be done in one shot (unlike my system), which is good. A set of temporary plywood frames were installed in the interior to hold the panels in alignment until the transom and bow pieces were in place. If you have a portable power saw, then use it to destroy that boat, if you do not have such a saw then borrow one and destroy the boat. I was obvioulsy not going to put a high deck, just one at water level with short swivel chairs. Bungee jumper dies in PWC incident, local sky diver drives boat into bridge, ex-navy seal breaks neck attempting 60 MPH turn in overpowered Jon boat, etc.
In a centerline box aft, especially if bumped out of the transom a bit, you have minimal intrusion into the cockpit and wide open accommodations space. Then if you attach the fwd end of the shaft in the normal way (even with a flexible coupling) the engine will shake the shaft and induce vibration. So this series of bulkheads make up a frame that has folded gluing tabs to bond to the skin. Tomorrow I will look for cardboard and contact ROCK 102 and the local Miller Distributor for decals or stickers.
To make such a boat practical, the boat would have to be manufacturable at a reasonable cost, be easy for a single operator to change configurations, and be simple and corrosion resistant for minimal maintenance. My block system permits the whole outside of the seam to be done at once, while yours requires some trimming first. Once all the hull panels were fitted and bonded together full length lay-ups were made along the sides and bottom to tie it all together. The ideal single engined planing boat would have an IO in it's usual place, a tubular propeller shaft running fwd to the thrust bearing of an Aqua Drive and the engine just fwd of mid-ships. But with the Aqua Drive (or Python Drive) the fwd end of the prop shaft would be fixed solidly to the thrust bearing and minimize vibration. However, the most important requirements are that it must be safe, never leak, stand up to rough seas, and be at least as strong and rugged as a conventional boat.
I was hoping to get some inputs and comments on the details of my design, what are your thoughts? A stitch or tie every couple of feet and some duct tape to keep things aligned and away you go. It just seems much more logical, to not trip over the engine and shaft enclosures all over the most valuable real estate on the boat (midship). This is an expensive and complicated system but it optimizes weight distribution and maneuverability. The design process took awhile but I did come up with what I believe is an elegant and simple design solution that meets all the above requirements. A spline shaft and universal joint may be possible along with a pedestal bearing to save the cost of the Aqua Drive. Not only did the design satisfy my fantasies about the perfect boat, but also it appeared that it might have commercial possibilities. Lofting panels is just as easy and going through setting up build frames, and cutting and fitting all the rest of the pieces of wood that have been mentioned in order to get the shapes. A combination square, a 4' metal rule and a decent batten and you can lay out a panel in 15-20 minutes from offset #. But it would'nt make it as a production boat as the long shaft would take up too much space.



Small sailboat design jobs
Boat rentals beaver lake ar news




Comments to «Boat hull design ideas gallery»

  1. ETISH writes:
    Abydos ships have the best way he needed to spend neat little 8' boat with.
  2. SmashGirl writes:
    Clearly you may visualize your desires and.
  3. FiDaN writes:
    The interior is much with a seashore space.