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When you look at a boat, you have to remember that the hull is one of the most important parts . The boat hull acts as a balancer for your boat so there are a few rules to make sure you follow when designing and creating one.
If you are inexperienced it would be better to design and build a hull that is simple, however you still have to be mindful of both the strength and weight.
The design should have the center of buoyancy fixed some where about halfway between the stern and bows.
When you are designing the wall sided type of boat, always make sure that the degree of curving that you are incorporating at the sides of the boat is equal to the curvature of the base of the boat. Building boat hulls is not a big headache but these basic points have to be kept in mind if you want a perfect streamlined hull. The best would be if you could design boat hulls that will hold the ballast below the waterline at all times. Note: I HATE spam as much as you do and will never give out your email address to any third parties for any reason. You could vent it with an open tube starting high on the transom, going through into the tunnel and then up to the front of the tunnel, no valves or checks. You could make the tunnel hull, test it out and then fair in the new shape right over the tunnel and test that out. Originally Posted by firth_andrew007 please dont hesitate to tell me how much i suck at 3d moulding haha this is my first go at it but it is to scale and it gives the basic structure of the deck maybe all the weight at the bow might counter act the outboards..Attachment 25436 I assume you know the hull shape will not look like that?
It also looks like with all that second deck structure the extra flotation of a non-tunnel hull might come in handy.
You say the tunnel isn't for shallow draft but extra speed, do you have any idea how much extra speed you get? When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
Location: Germany Suitable Hullshape for 35m fast ferry in exposed seaway?
I like to pick your brains regarding the best hullshape of a 35-40m fast ferry going about 35kn cruising speed.

The tricky part starts here, as the seaarea is exposed to long ocean swell and the sea seems choppy between islands, something classic planing hulls do usually not excel very well in. Does anyone have a contact to a ferry operator working under similar conditions who might be willing to share some thoughts?
Location: Portugal Beware, they have made a fantastic car ferry in Hawaii (aluminium), capable of cruising at 40k and deal with big seas, but the ecologists had just managed to stop the boat.
I am not a designer or big boat builder, but I have travelled on these big wave piercers across Bass Strait, one of the roughest stretches of water in the world.
The boats utimately got rejected by the Tasmanian government for the tourist trade because of their unpopularity - made everyone sea-sick. Good luck with the project - and for gods sake put some decent fully reclining seats, properly spaced so you dont get vomited on. People around me favour the option of a stabilised monohull over a multihull, even though I like multihulls generally.
Primary reason is confined building space, limited beam (locks on delivery), and fast acceleration and deceleration in case of the multi. So a more seaworthy semi displacement hull can be used, than for a smaller vessel with 35kn. Both effects will allow the vessel to slice more elegantly through waves and reduce fast accelerations and decellerations which lead to seasickness.
I attached pics of the model (over 4 meter length), you can observe the model at full speed. Maybe I can lean towards the bow configuration of the larger one if we use a computer controlled T-foil upfront to stabilise the ride and provide additional lift.
By the way, I saw a number of big (100m+) fast ferries with a vertical bow under the waterline. With an airboat you would need to swing a larger prop than you propose to get the best from the engine. As Rick stated, you want more weight aft; however, you do not want too much weight, as that may make it harder for the boat to jump the bow wave and get on plane. It has been my experience with airboats that it is easier to get on plane when in very shallow water.

If you have a poor design the boat will not be stable, will not float or could lean to one side. John Teale a well known author various boating books, had said “Whatever you do with the hull, make sure that it keeps the buoyant center at the right point. Say you are designing a ballasted boat; make sure that the weight of the boat (the up-weight) is always forty to fifty percent greater than the weight of the ballast.
So, boat hulls being the most important part of a boat, require the greatest attention and therefore pay heed to what type of hull you are building if you want a good boat. If it's a planing hull performance that you are after, then a true tunnel hull design may work well for you. One of them is the NGV Liamone, equipped with a T-foil under the bow and this bow configuration. This essentially means that your boat will be streamlined and perfect for smooth, jerk reduced movement.
The difference in the amount of resin depended on the experience of whoever was building it. It's not only the initial expense of the extra barrel of resin, it's like hauling around a useless barrel of resin for the life of the boat and they're heavy. The to and fro of the correction (say once every 2 minutes) produced a most horrible sensation to travellers even in calm conditions. It takes more power to get it up on plane than a simple flat bottom but is more comfortable in waves due to the Vee forward and the forefoot.
It would have been much better to add trim tabs, if not full rudders, to stop this constant change of direction and pitching for passenger comfort.

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