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Location: San Francisco Bay Area I mentioned earlier in this thread that I would fix a couple of things in my drawings, ie, sole below water, etc.
And I added a cutaway plan view again to show where I thought the engines might go, the revised sun pad arrangment and even the cabin layout (although I would still not install a head in mine, others seem to prefer it so I showed it). Location: Milwaukee, WI You can run sterndrives with a jackshaft for more cockpit space. Location: San Francisco Bay Area Yes, stearn drives with jack shafts would keep my cockpit larger and clear, but would that help with the problem Doug mentioned with the weight of the engines being possibly too far forward? I envisioned this as a planning hull and due to the area that I do 99% of my boating I want the wake to be as minimal as possible at cruise speeds. Location: Milwaukee, WI If the displacement curve corresponds to the load it should be not problem. Location: Flattop Islands Designing a boat is like juggling six balls at once, it goes fine if they stay in line, you've got trouble if one doesn't fit. On your sketch divide the waterline into ten equal divisions, number them 0 to 10 from the stem to the transom.
Location: San Francisco Bay Area I'll add the station lines and see where it comes out. How do boats like the 60's thru early 80's Bertram 31's get away with having their plants so far forward and then piling on flybridges and such? Location: Australia On the subject of drives, there are many possible options. Location: San Francisco Bay Area I had thought the surface drives would be more efficient then a regular stearn drive or a inboard but I had no idea that they cost as much as they do. The notch in the transom was not so much for the drives, but because it was mentioned that it looked like the weight was too far forward and this was just an idea I had to move the LCG aft.
As I stated in my last post, I'm going to add some station lines to my earlier drawing to give it some dimensions. Surface drives are more efficient than either shafts or stern drives at speeds over about 35 knots.
I added the station lines using the water line with the boat at rest and the engines are between stations 5 and 6 slightly in to 6-7.
If I made the bottom of the running surface due to the notch station 10 and re-draw the lines, the engines would be between 6 and 7 slightly into 7-8. Take a look at the section on planning hulls in Priciples of yacht design by Larsson and Eliasson. The biggest problem I see with your notched transom is that it reduces the surface area of the bottom.
I agree that for the number of hours you notch up then petrol engines will probably make more sense.
Either way, you'll probably have to move them aft a little or boat won't float level and could be quite a handfull at speed.
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JavaScript appears to be disabled - most features on Can Stock Photo will not function correctly.Not a member yet? Search Can Stock Photo for royalty free illustration, royalty free clipart, digital artwork, EPS vector clip art, stock illustrations, stock images, logo icon graphics, and cheap EPS format line art drawings. I did a revised profile trying to show the huge notched transom with the surface drives shown.

Also tried to show engine boxes like you might see in the Bertram 31's so as to allow the balance of the sole in the helm area to remain lower. If I have to notch the transom to reduce the LCG and add a sun pad over the area, I might as well just go with stearn drives.
I see a lot of other boats in the 35-40' range coming up the river at 20 mph with their bow pointed towards the sky and a 5' tall wake behind them.
When you say between stations 6 and 7, how is this affected by a transom notched to the degree I show?
If you go for sterndrives, however, I think you'll be restricted to using those made by Konrad as Volvo and Mercruiser don't produce recreational drives capable of taking the power from the big diesels that I assume you'll be installing. In looking at some other drawings I noticed that when they start at the stem and go to the stearn, they don't start right at the tip of the bow, nor the water line. A pair of big diesels weigh a great deal, so their placement is important in the overall weight placement equation.
As Tom Lathrop will happily point out to you (and I think may already have done so earlier in the thread), if the mass per unit area of the bottom is too high then the boat will require enormous amounts of power to get on the plane and conversely will tend to drop off the plane at relatively high speeds. Personally, I'd go for a pair of fuel injected petrol inboards driving through conventional shafts or perhaps through stern drives and jack shafts. With nothing but open cockpit down the back end and all your machinery and accomodation located fwd it's inevitable. For my next lesson I will be filling a request that a member asked for about two days ago on "how to draw a row boat" step by step. Start with some basic guidelines so you have a nicely drawn out frame to work with for your row boat and old man. Okay, now you will start drawing out the old man's face and shape of his actual head as seen here. You will start sketching out the shirt starting with the collar lines and then the shape of his arm which is also the sleeve. You will draw out the rest of the old man starting with his sleeve which is folded above the elbow, and then draw out the forearm. Step five is the second to last step and all you will do here is draw out the boards on the wooden boat as you see it drawn out for you here.
All you have to do here is sketch out all the water ripples that will make your row boat look like it is actually in water. Can Stock Photo has the royalty free illustration, line art drawing, EPS vector graphic, or stock clipart icon that you need.
Is there a formula to determine how much a shorter running bottom surface will affect the LCG? In spite of appearances, they aren't a surface piercing drive - they use conventional sterndrive props. Fuel and water tanks are located as close as possible to the LCB so that it doesn't matter if they're full or empty. It's true that this increased area will also increase drag, but given that we aren't talking about a very high speed craft, I think that low speed perfomance is way more important.
Instead of drawing out a plain old looking row boat I decided that I should have at least an older guy paddling the row boat like he was fishing on a pond or something.
You will draw a shape that looks like half of a banana and then draw out the head and body guidelines of the random guy that is rowing the pretty boat. He is bald on the top of his head so all you will be drawing is some hair on the side of his head.

Next draw a vertical line to complete the shape of his torso and then draw out the other hand as well as thicken the handle shape of the oar. You will do the same to the other arm and then draw out the shape of his bent leg and knee. Once you are done drawing out the wooden boat, you can finish drawing the lower end of the paddle or oar.
That is all you have to do, you can choose to do some last minute touch ups before you move onto the last step.
All you have to do now is color in your work and you have just learned how to draw a row boat step by step. Our designers and illustrators provide royalty free stock images, clip art, clipart graphics, and pictures for as little as 1 dollar. Row boats are used for various reasons with the most common reason being fishing and relaxing on the water.
Next draw out the man's eyes, nose and mouth which is exaggerated to emphasis on how old he is, and then draw out the fingers on his hand which is holding the oar.
Draw a water line that is covering most of the paddle and then add water lines on the bottom of the boat.
I've seen them at local boat shows a few times, but only ever installed on smaller (ski) boats. At this rate I would never offset the increased cost of the diesel engines with fuel savings. During the 12th and 13th century, any type of boat that used a pair or several pairs of oars were called row boats.
Erase all the guidelines that you drew in step one and then move to your last detailing step.
I could use less expensive and lighter gas engines, use stearn drives with a jack-shaft arrangement, and probably never wear them out. These boats were used primarily for fishing and transporting back and forth to different locations like different islands. Nowadays row boats are used primarily for the same reasons except we no longer use them for going to different islands unless you are part of an island tribe. Canoes, paddle boats and several other boats that require paddles to move the vessel, are used more than ever nowadays. Lets not forget that rowing boats were also used during the days when everything was being traded over seas. Iceland was one of the first countries to really use rowing boats primarily for trading, delivering, transporting, moving and many, many other reasons that are not known by me because I would have to do more extensive research to find that information out.
Nevertheless, row boats are always a good thing to have even if you don't live on a lake or a pond. Just slowly drifting on the water relaxing on a cool summer night with your friend or family is all you will ever need to totally relax yourself from everyday stresses that come your way.
The lesson is very easy to follow and understand so that you can draw out your very own row boat with ease.

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