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Chesapeake Light Craft » Chesapeake 16: A High-volume Wooden Sea Kayak That You Can Build!
Large storage compartments will absorb enough gear and water for long, unsupported expeditions. Chesapeakes are built to endure a lifetime of strenuous touring with 4mm-okoume plywood hulls and decks, both sheathed with fiberglass.
Individual kayak fit is very important, so there are six singles, two doubles, and a triple to choose from. James Wharram Designs self build and professional physical body polynesian style catamaran. Mudie had already crossed several times if I remember, and he commented on how in reality one of the attributes of the lighter displacement was that the waves even when breaking passed under the boat more. I've done some racing in Mini Transats, a couple of them overnighters, one race was about 60 hours. If I was under 30 I'd love one, if between 30 and 45 I'd enjoy it but would probably only keep it a season before the exhilaration of the amazing speeds wore off a little, and at 60 I love going for a blast for maybe two days at a time.
But that said, there are a lot of lessons to be learned from the Mini Transat class, and it would be possible to take those lessons on into a very lightweight and still very fast boat that would give 90% of the performance for 10% of the cost ( the rig on a competitive modern Mini can cost a hundred grand).
Dont see any issues with it being kept on a mooring,not sure why you think this may be a problem,care to explain? Surprised no one in UK has started a build yet(as far as the forum knows),but John down in Tasmania is coming on fine with his build.
I think we are talking around each other here, I am with you that a boat is there to get wet and that a designer wont design a boat that is made not to get wet. So here I post my question again - will the mouse and other boats that size be a good boat to keep on a mooring or rather be better sailed dry in the long run. The other thing you have to remember is its all relative,the smaller boat,built from thinner ply,will weigh less than a more substaintial boat,and hence the loads on all its fittings will be lighter,i would have thought mouse could hang from a wall on her mooring cleats,if shes been built properly. I havn't started my Souriceau yet: I thought I'd have my finished my Oughtred Shearwater this winter, to start the next project this summer, but it was too cold and icy this winter in the UK to do anything except steam some floors, so I'm steaming ahead to finish that in the next 2 months now its suddenly warmed up here in the UK. The other thought has been Welsford's Pilgrim or Pathfinder, as they also fit in my garage just - on a dolly. An enduring favorite among paddlers, the award-winning Chesapeakes are the gold standard for build-it-yourself sea kayaks. Watertight bulkheads are standard, as are hatches, deck rigging, adjustable footbraces, and a comfortable seat. The 16LT and 17LT are standard Chesapeake 16 & 17 hulls with lower decks and sides, reducing total volume by 20% for a sleeker, more compact kayak.

Building your own catamaran is a good investment and can get you the boat you want at a price you can afford. Then both hulls are the Saame Fit and trim bottom control board two again Now make and fit keels you could match daggerboards if.
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Speaking of sharpies, maybe this is a stupid question, but could a "true" sharpie possibly be raced in something like the Jester's? Its true some larger trailer sailors MAY have possibly more strengthing in the bilge area to cope with the stress of trailing,but a good trailer wont stress ANY hull.
The lead bulb keeps the c of g very low, stopping her turning on her mooring lines, as can happen with centreboard dayboats, where the centreboard is up inside the boat. Also it wouldn't have gone down well with my girlfriend at the time, but now that's not a problem. Being more mainstream and easier to resell perhaps maybe, with my sensible hat on, knowing the conservative UK market.
The big, comfortable cockpit is an ideal spot to spend a lazy afternoon if multi-week expeditions aren't your speed.
One reason so many builders prefer the Chesapeakes is their flexible architecture, unique among kit boats. The mouse,though small,has been engineered to perform,has a high performance rig and foils,of course it is still a decked over ballasted dinghy,but a very well executed design,i think. Any boat that is not reccomended to stay afloat has no place on the market,who in their right minds would buy a boat whos maker suggests you dont get it too wet??? ANY boat can be fitted with less than useless deck hardware and small washers,which is asking for trouble.
This eliminates this chore whether she's on a mooring or stored on a trailer, especially if you want to keep your boat in service in the winter, to sail on some lovely days, when it generally rains more. This saves cost but more importantly saves time when you want to go sailing, and saves wind associated chafe in the winter.
High-volume bows lift you over rough seas - or powerboat wakes - while the skeg-like stern prevents weather-cocking in blustery winds.
Experienced builders may customize every part of the boat above the waterline, whether building from a kit or plans. I see no problem with mouse being left afloat permenently if sheathed as suggested with cloth and epoxy. The whole internal structure is a reinforced box with the central bulkheads reinforcing the keel case.

CLC's signature cambered decks shed spray, increase the storage space inside the hull, add strength without weight, and look great. One of my old (35years) ply boats was built without any kind of sheathing,and was fine at that age,she also,spent 3 years afloat,with just the occasional drying out on a tide to scrub the bottom,and freshen the antifoul. On the water, rain water won't be left swilling around in the bilge for a week before your next on her.
Chesapeake kayak builders explore quiet local rivers and paddle the length of the Sea of Cortez.
Well designed hatches that can be kept tight really are a must for small off-shore boats(my opinion). I dont know what you would be using to rub down paint with,but it certainly should not be doing any damage to the hull itself. That keeps the interior cleaner, smelling better and keeps this 'rot promoting fluid' away from your masterpiece. The advantage is you can point higher, control or mainatain sail shape better and the mast is supported properly, for running supplementary sails (genny's etc) and the mast is better supported in a roll etc.
Simply check your whining make if you are studying these pages for instruction you are going away to be miles ahead of where I started. Good quality plywood and good quality paint AND good maintenance will give you a good boat without the sheathing.
Obviously epoxy, paint etc all help in non self draining boats to keep water out from contacting wood but through small cracks does water flow. Chesapeakes are built in garages, apartments, living rooms, television studios, and in at least 50 countries from Iceland to Australia.
Never seen a 1cm thick GRP 15ft dinghy (it would be too heavy), so her plywood construction makes her lighter (for the same strength) or stronger (for same thickness) than making her in GRP depending on how you want to look at it. Many 'traditional' boats will be tacking through 100 degrees, I'd be aiming for 70 degrees with Souriceau. Our experience with Laser Stratos would bear that out, it felt like you could sail into the apparent wind. Therefore as whole, the everywheregoing Souriceau was downgraded to be a C or D category cruiser.
You have to go to foam carbon to outperform plywood's performance ability, but then you've got 300% more cost for maybe 25% benefit, and alot more goop.

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