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I am looking for information with regards to the design, and detail drawings, In AutoCAD format, either .dwg or.
For 16 to 22 foot aluminium boat design, similar to boston whaler designs, centre console type layout.
I am conversant with autuCAD, and have TIG welding experience, but am looking for designs with cutting schedules that could be profled by CNC machines to allow for ease of assembly. There are several designers in Australia that offer plans or plasma cut kits for small vessels. Phil Curran of CDM Marine and Gavin Mair are two of the top alloy designers here on the west coast and they have websites. I have a 28 foot trailerable boat in alloy suitable for experienced builders but it is not a kit boat. I have the original design for the prototype available but I am reworking the underwater lines for a stern drive leg (there needs to be more displacement aft for the change of LCB), which also affects the performance potential for the boat. The second generation hull will have a 120 hp diesel stern drive (although a four stroke outboard is possible) and will have a top speed of 20 to 22 kts and a cruise of 18 to 20. After I have built the prototype I will use the corrected sections to put together a plasma cut kit.
Location: Western Australia Alloy plate for hull Yes, I can see it would be tempting to use surplus plate to build a hull, and if it is a marine grade alloy (5000 series) it may save you some dollars up front. Overall, I think the hassle factor of building in tread plate would result in an inferior boat. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Coming to a design website and asking help stealing plans for a boat currently in commercial production is generally considered bad form. Location: Eustis, FL I don't know of any free aluminum, welded jon boat plans available. Location: Washington 6 foot wide plus the flare to the sides generally comes out to a boat about 8 feet wide, which is the maximum trailerable width in most states. Location: New Orleans It depends on what type of ribs, and the attachment methods, and how much you are willing to spend. In a large commercial shop you would likely use a hydrolics press to stamp the shapes out of aluminium plate. For a one off build, either a Hand break machine if you have one available, or if not cut each piece, then weld it into place.
Location: Washington Where I come from braces are what dentists use to straighten your teeth. Location: Seattle, Washington, USA Then there is the Brace and bit when you are drilling a hole by hand using a Wood Auger Bit. Location: The Loft Good one Saildude, there is only one tool there and yet a brace is classed as two? Location: Seattle, Washington, USA The Brace by it's self does not do much so you need the bit for the Brace to be much more than a wall hanging (OK you can also get countersinks, screwdrivers etc. Seattle is Mostly sunny today and Sunday - high about 66 degrees - - But if we wait until Tuesday or so the showers should be back to normal - Saildude View Public Profile View Saildude's Website View Saildude's Gallery Find all posts by Saildude Page 1 of 2 1 2 > « Am I crazy? Ship plans useful to model boat builders essentially come in three types: scale plans of the real vessel, drawings for plank-on-bulkhead construction or general arrangement blueprints. Ship plans are drawn up to describe the shape of the three dimensional hull on a two dimensional plan.
If documentation do exist, it may not always be the original construction plans, but can also be plans drawn up for refit or in some cases to document captured enemy ships.


General arrangement drawings show deck layout, wheel house, bridge, davits, anchors, funnels, guns etc. Inboard profile and Sectional views can provide information that may not be visible on any view on the GA plan.
Some of the information provided on the hull lines plan is redundant for model boat building. Most plank-on-bulkhead plans are either freebies from magazines or originally intended to go with a kit. A model ship plan for plank-on-bulkhead construction can be difficult to convert if you want to use another building method. Water-line-model plans are essentially a General Arrangement (GA) plan and are most common in small scales (1:600 and smaller). During May 2012 at Dreamcatcher Boats, Roger made a skin-on-frame boat and covered it with an amazingly beautiful cedar strip deck. In the chapter you will find and download very simple plans necessary to achieve this small fishing boat. These normally cost a couple of thousand Australian dollars more than you could buy the alloy plate for, but they are often well researched and designed kits. The current vessel has a 70 hp inboard diesel and has a top speed of arounf 15 knots with a cruise of 20 to 14 kts. I have not built the second generation hull yet, so I have only the developed frame sections, which do not always match the shape you get in the real world. If you are in this part of Australia you can come and look at the prototype, which has been in the water for 12 months. Some of the 5000 series alloys are not as stiff as 5083, which is what is normally used for hull construction, and you would need to allow for that. The cost of the hull materials is a very small part of the overall price of any boat and any compromise you make in construction can seriously affect the value of the boat. I would suggest thinking of either buying a boat from the manufacturer, likely for what it would cost to build, or looking for free plans of a similar type of boat. The first is that maximum width of a boat on a trailer is 8' so any wider than this means you have to have special permits. You could probably do most of the entire construction of a boat in just a few steps, though the set up cost would be million.
A hand break is usually found in even small metal fabrication shops, so you might be able to either pay them to form the sheets, or rent access to the machine for a relatively small fee. Sometimes contemporary plans of a historic vessel are preserved if you're lucky, however most ships throughout history have no surviving records at all. It can also be plans drawn up as a historical record researched from many archives, sometimes specifically for model builders. To be complete, the plan should have the following views (see ship plan above):Sheer Plan - non-naval architects would call this "side view". Some builders go freestyle once they have a hull they like and come up with their own GA layout - inspired by a real vessel or not. For smaller vessels these plans are not necessary, unless you are attempting an unusually ambitious model with interior details etc. Many plans drawn up for the purpose of model building come with a GA plan and side view, and the body plan. However, rigging was rarely well documented in the age-of-sail, so many times other references will have to do.
Building a working model using a plan intended for a static model can also pose problems due to obstruction from internal structure and limited hull access.


Two leaflets are available for download: the plan of the boat (side and cuts) and the cutting plane of all parts in the marine plywood. After testing unsinkable, it only remains to be tested in rowing, sailing and with an electric motor. They are normally complete with all alloy needed and can include alloy windows pre-made if required. I will do a plasma cutting schedule for the prototype but the frame sections will have a trimming allowance. Unless you are used to doing this type of work, asking them to do it is probably a better option though. The curved lines are called buttocks and slice through the hull parallel to the symmetry plane going down the middle of the hull.Waterline Plan - this would be the hull seen from below (or above if you think of it as transparent). Sections can often help understand the purpose of some deck fittings and details that landlubbers (such as myself) wouldn't normally recognize. As long as the stations are marked on the side view - this format is perfectly adequate for the purpose.If a GA drawing is all you've got you may be able to build a water-line model or recreate your own hull lines. Generally, the older your subject or poorly documented, the more experience (or guesswork depending how you look at it) will have to go into it. This kind of drawings is also common in maritime books that are not geared specifically toward model builders.
These scales are still dominating in the UK and USA.This system is based on inches or fractions of inches to a foot. People build and collect ships in this scale either for the shear fun of it or for war gaming.Speaking of war gaminga€¦There are a group of nutballs that build warships with BB guns and shoot each other up until one is sent to Davy Jones's Locker. In the same fashion war gaming and military figures have less traditional scales that have been trickling into the model boat hobby as well.One obvious benefit is if you need crew figures or accessories that are inexpensive and easy to come by in the realm of model rail road or military modeling.But does scale really matter? The latter can be a challenge to pull off convincingly if you lack experience, and the result should probably be categorized as semi-scale. It goes back to before the metric system when the whole world operated on the twelve-inches-to-a-foot-rule. Because of the shrinkage rate of alloy during welding, anything that can be bent rather than welded should be taken advantage of. Sometimes these lines are parallel to the keel or a zero-level referring to a construction floor. It is of course possible to weld three plates together to get a 12' wide plate, but this is again additional cost and complexity. The actual load water line (LWL on drawings) is probably the most common as a datum.Body Plan or Hull Sections - this view shows the sections if you were to slice through the hull like a loaf of bread. These scales are especially dominant when dealing with plans and kits from France, Germany and Japan. The location of the sections (or more correctly, stations) are straight lines on the other two views.To finish a scale model you also need a general arrangement plan. Museum models of steam and warships in continental Europe are commonly in one of these scales.



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