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Atlanta wooden boat association membership
Location: Samogitia Build of small mahogany sailboat with water jet propulsion I began to build a mahogany boat with water jet drive and and own design wingsail.
Using AutoCAD I tried to design a boat hull somewhat similar dinghy, yachts and powerboats hulls. My disposal I have a woodworking shop, CNC machining center, stainless steel welding equipment, AutoCAD using experience, joiners tools and experience. Well, I still think I can build this boat and am looking forward to constructive criticism from you.
Location: Samogitia Few pictures of boat building process CNC machined and assembled form for machogany boat build. Location: France Man, it's already looking very good - specially when you say you have no experience with boat building. Location: Eustis, FL You don't really think that's anything close, to a reasonable set of sailing lines do you?
If honestly I think that for better sailing lines need more boat wide, smaller transom and may be deeper keel.
Location: Samogitia More of boat building process Showed that the first layer will not be easy to put correctly on the curved boat hull form. Trying to resolve the situation with the springy rubber hose pieces pierced with wire hooks.
The second layer of mahogany cross diagonal bands is finished and sanded for outer 2,5 mm layer gluing. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Originally Posted by LyndonJ I'd stick to conventional methods, you'l have an asset then that you can relise when you sell. On a steel boat, where you build in your details and weld them down, which would have cost exponentially more in a non metal boat, the finished steel work is thus a far greater portion of the finished boat, than it is for non metal boats. As I point out in my book, people often fail to differentiate between resale value and resale price. The fact that McNaughton is too dense to comprehend basic geometric principles has nothing to do with structural reality.
The picture above is of wooden planking ,which has no strength across the planks , which is exactly what frames were developed for. There is nothing floppy about a finished origami hull.Such comments reveal an absolute naivety about the subject.
As for the cost beatup, you were asked before just how much it would really cost on another thread (in time and dollars) to add 5 or 6 transverse bar frames to a 36 foot steel boat. Nobody said that origami hulls are floppier, they are just weaker becasue the framing is floppier than a conventional frame.
But you need to accept that some of your reasoning doesn't scale well to larger boats with much higher loads. Location: British Columbia Points 1 and 2 apply equally to longitudinals, as they are equally supported by their being welded to the hull plate, with the added structural advantage of going around a curve, yet you insist on calculating them as stand alone, with no attachment to, or support from, the hull plate.
It doesn't cost much to put 6 transverse frames in a hull, once it has been pulled together using origami methods, altho I know one guy who turned a couple of frames into a several week project, to increase his total income for the job.The point I am making is, if you put the frames up first, then try put the plate on to fit the frames, the cost and time goes up exponentially. Originally Posted by Brent Swain Points 1 and 2 apply equally to longitudinals, as they are equally supported by their being welded to the hull plate, with the added structural advantage of going around a curve, yet you insist on calculating them as stand alone, with no attachment to, or support from, the hull plate. The relevance of frames is quite necessary to make the whole ship an almost corrugate systeme, with all the strength in all the direction.
Now when the round plate is transformed in chine on your design, you have an intense stress point there, and that is no good practice.
As for your other boat, they all are ceiled in wood inside and seams to cost much more that a Swan. Fisherman and commercial are tough with the money, every cent is acconted, but you don't know that. By the way I would like to mention, a vessel of a certain size is never ever designed by one person, same for building. We may argue about his biased opinions, about his terribly obvious lack of understanding some basic engineering, but we cannot argue that he does it to harm or insult other members.
I know there are visitors here which cannot really get it together, where is the knowledge and where the anecdote.
Reverse clipper bows and wine glass cross sections would be difficult but practically any other single and multi chine hull form can be done in origami. It's clear that the longitudinals go into tension, suffer stress reversals and consequently deflect more that a pre bent frame. Originally Posted by whoosh … do these boats come with lines, as iines if one wanted to draw a body plan, for tankage floors frames etc? That can be done by the software, or you can build chine model and take the strakes patterns from it.. Originally Posted by dskira When I designed and latter on built (sorry, I built too, but that is not relevant since you want to be the only one here) if we don't put frames the vessel will have been not able to do its work properly due to wickness, let alone having the cargo capacity strength needed to pay for itself and being safe. Daniel As I only build one hull a year, a couple of weeks work, and on every on I work with the owner, who's lifelong dreams are coming true , quickly before his eyes, it never gets boring.
The end of the chine where the cone begins is solid plate once the chine ends, not weld, so one is not dependent on the weld for strength.

Where Paul's mast goes thru the deck, a large doubler of heavier plate, plus some flat bars on edge eliminates the chances of anything wobbling . The only compression on the mast is only the weight of the mast, rigging and sails on a junk rig , unlike the tremendous compression on a marconi rig. Colvin estimates 1,000 hours for a hull and deck, something origami lets you do put together in under 100 hours. As I pointed out in the cabin top example, a curve drastically increases the stiffness of a piece of plate . None of my boats have ever had problems getting insurance at the best rates, or passing survey.
Originally Posted by Brent Swain None of my boats have ever had problems Hope it will stay that way. Location: British Columbia I have made wineglass sterns by welding the last few inches of centreline first, before cranking the deadrise out with the hydraulic jack. As Herreschoff pointed out , in smaller boats, clipper bows tend to stop a boat dead in her tracks when they hit a steep head sea.
Many of my hulls have saved their owners from the disasters which would have resulted in most other cruising boats out there. The hull will need a lot of framing following on from that picture and I'm skeptical that in the long run with a vessel that size it might just re-allocate the build time. Roberts has a method which is said to be fast, its bottom plate then framing then the rest built bottom up. I was reading on the Farrier site (and the site where the F-39 builder is using infusion) about the heat molding of foam over planking to do one off hulls. On average, how many layers of fiberglass with epoxy go into typical boats on the inside and outside of the foam? Sorry for all the questions, I just really want to lean more about composite boat building (for academic purposes only). Chris Ostlind Previous Member   Write to Henny (the guy building the vacuum infused F boat in Netherlands) and ask him a few questions.
Chris Ostlind Previous Member   Farrier says it isn't necessary to bag or infuse his boats.
Location: Port Gamble, Washington, USA Henny van Oortmarssen has been using infusion to build a Farrier F-39, and he has a great website that talks about the whole process.
If you were to heat form the foam, remove it from the mold and vacuum bag it, would the vacuum deform the foam or does it just produce normal forces on the laminate? If this does deform the shape and you choose to vacuum bag you would have to lift the foam out of the mold put plastic down, put the foam back, seal it then somehow brace it to the mold framing. Tor is using vacuum bagging along with the resin infusion process but note that I do not recommend infusion for hulls unless you really want cleanliness, or would just like to try the process. Students and tutors at the Boat Building Academy are to launch a record twelve boat building projects by the September 2010 group on June 7th.
The event details are available here and the BBA folks would like to invite everyone to join us in the celebrations.
With 18 days to go, principal Yvonne Green says the workshops have never been busier – every spare inch of space seems to be occupied by a boat or a bit of a boat. Yvonne adds that while the students (and staff) will probably be shattered by launch day, the boats will be glorious.
Paul Gartside-designed 12ft traditional clinker dinghy, built in larch and oak with a grown stem and knees.
Spitzl classic German 4.4m lake rowing boat, built traditionally in clinker mahogany on oak.
Diamond Half Rater originally designed by Charles Sibbick in 1897 6.5m long, it is a replica created on the lofting room floor from photographs, a couple of similar lines plans and the only other existing replica Half Rater from another (American) designer that is owned by Rees Martin, a great friend of the Academy.
Have you got news for us?If what you're doing is like the things you read about here - please write and tell us what you're up to. Classic Sailor is a new magazine about traditional and classic boats from ex-Classic Boat editor Dan Houston and colleagues that promises rather more coverage of the traditional craft around our coast. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. Follow me on TwitterLooking for something?This is a busy weblog, and what you're looking for is probably still here - just a little way down the list now. Our Faversham-based friend Alan Thorne can help with boatbuilding projects - constructing to plans in very tidy stitch-and-glue or more traditional techniques. Throughout the centuries, people have been using all kinds of materials to build boats and ships of various sizes in order to cross the oceans or for hunting purposes. Hopefully this short introduction to shipbuilding materials was useful to enthusiasts willing looking into building their own boat. The most importantly - the boat will have to be small and beautiful, will have low weight that I can carry it on my car's roof.
I've watched many boats images as shown on the internet and I have not bad joiner experience. So make up such a frame for a 40 footer, and I can bend it by hand, by simply putting one end against the wall and pushing on it.
By itself, it is as floppy as hell, but once it is tacked down, with a 7 inch camber, with no structural members under it, six guys can stand and jump on it, without it buckling or deforming in any visible way.

It will first twist the plating, second will wooble the deck, and third the mast will go thru the hull. I thought you knew that, but evidently you don't, since your very mean attack on my resume prove it. There, a dumb welder with insufficient and outlasted licenses can blame a well established boatbuilder of being a novice. Their excitement , and enthusiasm in seeing a hull take shape in a few hours from flat plate, is contagious.
He has also prepared a nice DVD of his process along with a suggested materials listing so that you, too, could infuse your own multihull (or most any other boat, for that matter) The price for the DVD is extremely nominal compared to the learning experience that it represents on Henny's dime. Vacuum bagging hulls alone is also nice, and will give a superior product, but it is also not necessary and will increase building time.
Try scrolling down, clicking on the 'older posts' button at the bottom of this page - or try the search gadget! Thanks to them, we now possess the knowledge of many shipbuilding techniques and what materials should be used for each.
It is very tough and can take a rough journey, but is a lot more susceptible to rust and needs to be treated very frequently with paint in order to keep the water from entering. It’s weight depends on how many layers are put, giving you flexibility when it comes to how you want your boat to feel.
It can last you a very long time, and considering the cheap manufacturing cost, should be considered when building a boat. As you can see, each material has its own purpose, along with certain flaws, and it is up to you to determine which will suit your best in your building.
Resale value is the difference between what you can get for a boat and what she cost you in the first place.
The attached framing limits damage and provides safe stress paths which is not only a strength and stiffness issue but also a fatigue issue.
Since your method of framing is floppier for being pre-stressed then the hull structure will buckle more easily.
It does develop soft spots once the longitudinal welds are done , which is why I force flat bar beams up under it, on 18 centres , along the direction of the curve, like longitudinals , not fore and aft, across the curve , like transverse frames. The deck is weakest point, the design need more attention since some renforcement can be detrimental localizing the stress inset of diffusing it.
Vacuum bagging is only recommended for flat panels like bulkheads, where it is very easy to do, but again, not necessary. Whether you are looking into buying a boat or are perhaps considering building one yourself, one of the key things to consider is the material.
However, you must keep in mind what kind of boat you are planning to build when selecting the wood, as its performance will most likely vary depending on the environment and the task. If you consider using aluminium, make sure you understand the process, as you will require special tools to weld. Even though the structures itself is quite robust, it will likely need to be reinforced with other materials such as wood or foam in order to give your boat more stability on the water. If you are planning to buy one, make sure you check in with a ferrocement expert or a shipwright to check the construction for minor flaws which may lead to real issues in the future. Also, research the wood’s density and hardness, as these affect how easily the water can enter its structure. I Rubbed the hull with epoxy resin, with six hand-help put fiberglass and dip the cloth by epoxy. It's not how much material you put in a structure that makes it effective, it's where you put the material.
Highest strake stays in one piece, lower strakes are cut in the middle and ends of the plates are connected. My current boat, with about three inches of outside curve , goes thru a head sea far more smoothly, with far less resistance.The buildup of buoyancy is far less sudden. And now it's too late to correct boat hull problems because, sadly but the hull is finished.
Very nervous job.Will need to apply extra two layers of fiberglass without for preparing to warnish.
The deck is weakest point, the design need more attention since some renforcement can be detrimental localizing the stress inset of difusing it. Remember that it requires a lot of maintenance in order to keep it from rotting and deteriorating.
So you can get a reduced puncture resistance if you want, but I'd still put the required framing in. It is where you put the material ,and for puncture resistance, it's best put in plate thickness.

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Comments to «Building boat interior trim»

  1. Doktor_Elcan writes:
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