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Most of today’s boats are built using fiberglass as the main material and molding as the method of building. You may also want to read the Fiberglass Guide before you start working on your mold or find an appropriate boat plan to build mold form. To prevent your mold from sticking to the plug, the plug must be coated with plastic film known as “PVA”. When the gelcoat has cured so that it cannot be scratched off with the fingernail at the edge of the mold, which takes from 2 to 4 hours to overnight in cool or humid weather, you are ready for the “skin coat.” This is a layer of ? or 1oz.
Depending upon the condition of the mold surface, it may have to be sanded with 220 grit working up to 600 grit wet or dry. Location: Iceland Easy way of caulking molds I recently saw easy method to form clay for caulking molds.
Location: Haines and Juneau I like the idea of using clay for my radius but it became so tedious to mold over large parts that I gave up.
Unless I can come up with the right tools for working clay I may be forced to make a change. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Although we have put many dollars and hours of effort into the old Mercedes, Sarah and I have decided that we need better worldwide parts support and modern compact performance that the Old Mercedes diesel engine can't offer. Since a leaking flush-mount hatch led to the damage on the Mercedes, I decided to make a new raised-lip style one from scratch.
Tools of the trade: Polyester Resin, MEKP catalyst, respirator, rollers and a Bondo squeegee to remove bubbles, cheap natural bristle paint brushes and plastic pails for mixing not shown.
Fiberglass cuts with good plywood circular saw or table saw blades, but I used a small lightweight tile circular saw to cut the edge to the mold line. Location: fl building molds any info for building molds for a sportfish hull.
If it helps here is a brief run down of the plug construction, if you are making a male mold then this would work for you.


2) In AutoCAD I add rabbets in the frames and stringers so they will fit together properly.
11) For a truly fair surface you will sand with 80-grit in a diagonal pattern following the part.
Just in case anyone is paying close attention, I am writing this without vetting it so ye be warned.
Usualy there is a huge negative mold for every boat part that used when the boat is put together and this negative mold is used to make positive molds. You must either build a part from scratch using wood, plaster, polyester putty, sheet metal, etc. We can supply You files to cut the parts; You buy the plywood and cut it with a laser cut machine in any laser cut service (cheap!) and assembly it easily as a puzzle, fairing the inside a little (bcs of laser cut precision), and You will have a direct female mould ready to build boats as a traditional mould but without necessity to build an expensive and loose plug. I used heat gun to heat the tool I used to form the caulk, it is easier and it shines better. Molds are also made from fiberglass and are covered with a perfect layer of molding gelcoat. The plug is generally a male model (a positive model) exactly like the item you wish to build in all the details.
We can even design for You a completely new boat design, digitalizing Your design and making files for the laser cut mould. Boat builder than applies some molding wax over the glecoat and polishes it so it will later on be easier to remove the part form the mold.
It can be exasperating and expensive, and if the mold cools off like mine do every night you can find your perfect wax fillets have come loose in the morning. Besides the size also seemed managable for a first time project, so I decided that if I got the chance I would build me one.
If that is not really possible I totally understand, but I've always wondered what people go through to prep a boat for a life-long cruise. To make a correct copy I should have taken the thickness of the strips into account to create the molds.


I bought a Whale Gusher pump and I wanted to rig it up so that I could attach the handle through this bilge pump access hatch> how does the plumbing on yours look? It is made out ouf 3 planks of mahogany, joined with glue and small strips let in by using a router. Since the first thought was it would be difficult to find new tenants, since the building will be demolished to create room for houses, I was allowed to use this. Until I find another place the frame and molds have been put outside under a sheef of plastic. The transom was still not fixed so that was removed to prevent andy stains from the moist.
And of course all boat loving and manufacturing Holland is closed between X-mas and new year.
Fortunatly I was able to find a shop where they had just 1 Kg of epoxy available, so I coud start.
At the stern the strips stand upricht whilst at the transom they are flat.This means a lot of torsion. Unfortunately afterwards I discovered thatI had not sanded thorough enough and had some airbubbles underneath the fibres. Only the skeg and the kims need to get another layer before the boat can be turned right sideup.
He also welded some parts for me, so that now the cooling water is going out the exhaust.June, 2008;First tiral run!



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