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At the moment the domestic battery ammeter on our boat only shows the charge going into the battery, which is achieved by connecting the ammeter into the cable between the Alternator B+ terminal and the battery positive terminal. This is usually impractical for the length of heavy gauge cabling involved - the reason such ammeters are now depreciated. I would have assumed that if the wiring is as the circuit suggests, the drain as well as the supply would be shown by the ammeter, I will have to check, it won't be much if an alteration if the supply cable needs to be moved but I may need to double up the cable from the battery to the ammeter. I have just bought an ammeter and have been assured that it can go in either the positive or negative line.NickAnalogue ammeters with built in shunts can go in either but used mainly to be fitted in the positive line. With regard to a shunt, I am not bothered about the Starter current to be shown on the Ammeter. Many years ago I used to use something called Isis Supersketch, which was a DOS program that ran really well on my old Amstrad. I knew it wasn't the charger because I stole my PC power lead this morning and used it to plug the charger back into a socket rather than directly into the consumer panel, and it worked fine. Apologies for the lack of updates - have been away, and only managed to get back to the boat to fix the mistake today. Brian, who writes a boring blog every day when he is on board Harnser about their travels. As someone else said,it is likely the work of a panel wiring person, and is neatly and logically done, typically in keeping with industrial control panels. The Victron BMV battery monitor only seems to be registering the charging current of the charger and not the alternator. A significant piece of advice from the last thread seemed to stress the importance of looking at the charging current as a way of checking when to stop charging. Should the monitor be showing the combined charging current of the charger and the inverter?
If so, is this an installation fault, and what might have gone wrong (still under warranty)? Starter has a separate thick wire to the engine block (it's on the opposite side of the engine bay to the domestic bank).
Domestic bank negative is connected directly to the engine block by a separate thick wire but is fixed to the same engine bolt as the starter wire - does this not mean that the negatives of the 2 battery banks are effectively connected together? There is a red and black wire going to one of the negative terminals - is this the Victron temperature sensor?
1 joins a red and seems to head to the electrical boxes - looks like it might be the Travel Power box? The temperature sensor would normally just be stuck onto the battery casing with only thin wires (or cable) coming from it. To help find your shunt follow the grey wiring from the monitor it will have a plug in type connector to the shunt the same as the connector on the back of the monitor.
I find your post a little hard to interpret, but assuming your alternator is grounded to the engine (as it is for OP), if you have one -ve path from engine via starter battery to domestic battery, and another via shunt to domestic battery, only some (around half) of the current will be flowing through the shunt.
One big additional advantage is the higher the battery charge storage rate the longer the batteries will last. Reliable marine electrical and marine electronics installations require a systems approach.
Choosing the right boat light and installing it correctly is a constant cause of problems for boat owners. Just bought an old narrowboat, the only thing being, the electrics were incompletely reconnected following engine overhaul.
The problem is the previous owner had replaced the old Bosch alternator with a Leece-Neville one, and I need a bit of help identifying how to wire the alternator up. I know the boat was in regular use until illness forced its' sale, and that the electrics were no problem. The alternator has an internal regulator, which has one wire connected to the REG terminal. There are 2 wires from the starter switch, a thin one via the warning lamp, which I would think connects to the REG terminal. There will be people who can offer more complete advice than me on this but I'm not really clear as to the actual situation. I am wondering if the thicker wire back to the starter switch is to do with the heater plug supply as there should be no reason to take an earth from the alt into it? OK, Here is a basic wiring diagram:A view of the connection end of the alternator can be seen in this picture. Looking at it simplisticly, there needs to be a connection from B+, P ositive, to the batteries somehow.


A fellow boater is moored along from us, he tapped on the side of the boat this morning with an electrical problem, basically no power. The battery on the left I believe is meant to be the starter battery, the 2 on the right leisure batteries, the surveyor also had one of the leisure batteries replaced with a new one, the boat owner doesn't know how old the other one is. Possibly the charge is going to the battery switch and you have to have it set in the right position to charge, I'll get a closer look tomorrow, any thought appreciated though. Common setup, set to both when charging leave on 2 (house battery's presume) when engine not running.
Also note you should not switch the switch over whilst charging, set to both before starting the engine.
Well his engine battery is getting a really good charge so hopefully we can get their engine going tomorrow, I had a small spare battery in our wee van I keep for emergencies, we tried it but it wouldn't turn the engine quick enough to fire up, just 400 cranking amps. Their boat only uses 12v lights and pumps but uses a small inverter to charge lap top, I'll suggest they use a 12v reg charger possibly. I did read it somewhere, think it was Nigel Calder's book, but don't have access to it at the mo.
Just shove a Voltage Charging relay in the middle of the batteries (fused both ends) like, the switch is for isolating the batteries as well, so is needed. A separate cable runs from the Battery Positive terminal to the domestic Circuit fuse box.I have seen several diagrams on the internet which show a separate cable running from the fuse box input terminal and the B+ side terminal on the ammeter.
A separate cable suns from the Battery Positive terminal to the domestic Circuit fuse box.I have seen several diagrams on the internet which show a separate cable running from the fuse box input terminal and the B+ side terminal on the ammeter. There is no more fatal blunderer than he who consumes the greater part of life getting his living.
To do what you want would involve putting it between the battery and everything else.This is usually impractical for the length of heavy gauge cabling involved - the reason such ammeters are now depreciated. The cable from the battery to the ammeter is thicker, to reduce voltage drop when discharging, but of course that cable would be there anyway, whether there was an ammeter or not. I have just looked at the diagram for our boat and the fuse box supply is shown as already coming from the B+ side of the ammeter, but I am certain that on the boat it comes directly from the battery, bypassing the ammeter.
Could be a bit alarming when you operate starter Place shunt in the service battery negative cable before it connects to the starter battery negative.Agree that the Sterling DAR sensing wire (red) should go directly to the service battery positive though.
It's a free analogue circuit simulator, but it will allow you to enter the circuit as a schematic. Move the neutral wire for the charger to the neutral output of the RCBO which goes to the sockets. The 2 negative studs on the engine block are connected together anyway (by the metal of the block).
The thing you refer to above is probably the shunt, especially if its electrically connected to the -ve terminal. You can of course elect to install a generator, or you can install a power inverter also to do this.Of course you really have to make sure that the DC system is also up to this and so careful consideration of batteries and charging is necessary. This consists of good planning, quality equipment, machinery compatibility and simple systems design. Many choose the wrong light types, and don't full consider how they should be installed to minimise interference with electronics systems or create large electrical power consumption.
There is a thicker wire back to the switch which I am not certain about (REG or POS I would have thought). It sounds as if you have your alternator cover off for some reason but I'm not sure why if there are markings on the terminals.
Basically thin red cable from lamp - same thickness as the green starter energiser cable from key switch, and a much thicker brown cable (about third thickness of main battery cables) from key switch. I'd be very tempted to remove the thick brown wire from the ignition switch and reconnect it directly to the ammeter. Just like prestolite make what used to be the lucas A127, this one was originally motorola.
The switch will be wired so that the feed from the alternator can charge either the starter, the leisure, or both sets of batteries. I did attend one where the owner had power issues, and the batteries were wired incorrectly to the switch labelling, so he was living using the starter, and the domestic bank was his starter.
If I do this on the boat would it show the balance between charge and discharge when the enegine is running, and discharge when it is off?
Its probably one of the pictures the Royal Navy is circulating regarding the sale of their spare aircraft carrier? In fact there could be an argument that by using the stud nearest the batteries, cable run and hence losses are minimised.


I have never seen a mobile phone that does not have a battery monitor but I see very few boats with any sort of battery meter.
Useful electrical and electronics and wiring advice.Click on this link to find out more about. This is the basic boating law for all equipment.My books are written to meet the practical requirements of the cruising and racing yacht, motorboat and fishing boat.
I assume it was removed from one (NEG?)of the terminals when the alternator was disconnected. There is also a thick battery feed- type wire, which I am not sure whether it is a feed or earth.
You only need your main battery positive for charging the battery bank and then your D+ for auxiliary electrics.
The yellow lead is a sense lead, the picture shows it on B+, you will want it connected to one of your wires which will come direct from the battery.
Alternatively would it be possible to run the cable currently running betweenn the battery and fuse box directly to the B+ Side terminal on the ammeter?I feel I should know how to do this but would be gratful for any advice from anyone who knowns more about boat wiring than I do. Not only are most boat lived on but they all are dependant on a 12 volt system assisted by 240 volt.
Complex theory is covered only to a level sufficient to properly select, install, operate, maintain and troubleshoot with a minimum of technical expertise or knowledge.Click on this link to find out more about. The only disadvantage is that if the converter is being used while the engine is running, the increased current from the alternator registers as if it were a charge when in practice it is not the battery that is gaining the benefit of the current and may actually be discharging.
I am becoming increasingly convinced that the circuit diagram is wrong.With regard to a shunt, I am not bothered about the Starter current to be shown on the Ammeter. The big advantage for solar panels are, they charge for long periods of time for free and they are environmentally friendly.
And of course they havce a boat wiring system to support it all.Whether you have a new boat or are buying a used boat, adding a boat accessory to your Sunseeker or Bayliner boat, canal or narrow boat, the rules remain the same.
A solar panel can cover the power of a fridge and charge your batteries depending on the size or amount of panels fitted. On all boats installing the boat-wiring and the boat wiring diagram are major topics of interest. Choosing between fluorescent-lighting, halogen-lighting, led-lighting and low-energy-lighting is always a difficult choice. It is the domestic side that I want to be able to monitor, and if that can be done by moving a cable I will be quite happy even if there is a little bit of voltage drop, the Sterling should compensate for that. So the advantage with a battery monitor are they will give you many figures, a few of them are voltage ,percentage of charge, amps and many more, but these are the most used by our customers. The electrical power system required to supply equipment is also a misunderstood subject, and it is the foundation for reliable equipment operations.It is the source of problems on boat machinery of all types, as well as marine engines such as your electronic controlled Mercury Marine outboard motor, the inboard diesel and gasoline boat motors. Click on this link to find out more about.Fluorescent Boat Lightings and all you need to know.
A lot of customers who live on boats and have no hook up generally have to run there engine for a couple of hours everyday, one customer I can mention Gary from forton who had to carry out this technic daily before we fit him one panel of 140 watt.
We find customers who do not have such a system will always have a battery bank with 20-30 % charge rate, this generally gives batteries a 12 months life span. I want to change the dangerous illusion that boat and vehicle systems are similar.As we all know, there are no 24 hour road services offshore, and safety is the prime factor, and this depends on good systems design and installation.
Last quoted me he had not run his engine since we fitted the panel 3 months ago and his batteries where at 95 % charge. Whether it is in France, England, Netherlands, Australia, New Zealand or the United States, the same system problems are found.
We tend to find adding a solar panel and a battery monitor with a little education of the subject can turn around a bad system to great system. Will keep there batteries at 80-100 %charge ,giving them 3 years plus life span and with batteries being heavy, full of acid and expensive it really is a must we think to have one. Not only for battery care but use ,it seems pointless having 4 batteries all flat giving what one charged battery would give.
I assume it was removed from one (NEG?)of the terminals when the alternator was disconnected.There are 2 wires from the starter switch, a thin one via the warning lamp, which I would think connects to the REG terminal.



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