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Someone who can build a decent boat in plywood will easily build a decent boat in foam epoxy, but of course it always helps if there's a mate you can touch base with for skills transfer. Top flange is correct for the changing bevel of the deck, so you build the whole boat in the jig. Location: Rockport, Maine & Rochester Hills, Michigan BobBill, have you considered starting your own thread about your questions on your project? Originally Posted by DCockey BobBill, have you considered starting your own thread about your questions on your project?
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. The recent trend is toward increasingly fine waterlines forward and enough reserve buoyancy aft to allow the helmsman to be about 500mm further aft than previously possible. In light air, it is necessary to move way forward to keep the fat *** out of the water, even so the lower wetted area ( pointier stern) boats are faster. Construction is in a female jig, so foam and composite, tortured ply, and strip are all options. Location: Anacortes,WA Just curious (I don't know anything about anything) Is the LCB on current designs in about the same place?
Helmsman is such a big proportion of the displacement that the LCB pretty much follow him around.
Location: UK Any idea of the hulls weight fully ready for sailing excluding rig and seat. Location: Narragansett Bay RI Class minimum weight for complete boat less sails is 50kg. Location: Cocoa Beach, Florida Ic Steve, where do you see the major areas of development under the new rules? Originally Posted by Steve Clark Class minimum weight for complete boat less sails is 50kg. I should have listened to Willy and you five years ago when you guys were gently trying to steer my interests to the IC. The minimum weight for the new design IC's seems to be set a little too low for the average garage ply builder to hit target, so unfortunately the arms race will result in a divided class separating the rich from the poor (at least theoretically). Optimal composite construction techniques are achievable in less than optimal facilities, but require a minimum level of equipment, skill and non-recurring engineering and tooling expense.
Builders usually take quite a bit of time creating the original male pattern - because mistakes with this are repeated on every copy made.
Creating the material layup schedule, fitting core material and then achieving a final composite structure with just enough resin (for light weight and maximum strength) requires skills (& equipment) I don't have right now - vacuum bagging, resin infusion etc. All this is before you start dealing with internal structure, adding bulkheads, decking etc. Michael Storer, boat designer from Australia, says of his design: "The Quick Canoe series has been designed to be as easy to build as possible while keeping some of the qualities of a good paddling canoe -- in particular the ability to track. Of particular interest to me, is that the bpat can be built using THREE sheets of plywood -- the quantity of high-grade marine ply I have on hand. So, as I was cutting out the panel fo the first side of the second half of Twilight, I placed two "waste" pieces to represent a fin as seen on Michael's QC.
Characteristics the team was most concerned with manipulating were length, beam width, location of beam width, and rocker height. The location of the beam width affects both the flow of water over the canoe surface (how the water hugs the canoe shape as it passes by) and the canoes ability to turn well when racing. By manipulating each of these characteristics individually, the team was able to develop several unique hull shapes.  These minor variations of the same basic design determined the best compromise between the design criteria. Prolines was used to create the desired hull shape for Night Fury based on qualitative features gathered through research. Location: Cumbria, England Simple question relating to canoe displacement Firstly i'd like to introduce myself, im a 23yr old guy living in Cumbria, England.
Due to a tight budget I am looking to build a simple open canoe style craft for my first attempt.
I have found a design, called a Dory, but I am not sure about the weight of person this boat is designed to hold.

Is there a simple formula that can be used to calculate the displacement of a simple hull?? Archimedes principle tells us that the displacement of the hull is proportional to the volume of water it displaces. Just taking a quick look at your boat, if I needed fast calculations, I would just move all of my proportions into simple rectangles and triangles to find the volumes.
Again, assuming that the boat is wall-sided, the aft volume is 4200in^2 * 4in = 16800 in^3. Adding the forward and aft sections, we find that the approximate volume is 30000 in^3 = 17.361 ft^3. Therefore, again assuming the boat will float in 4" of water, your very rough approximation of displacement is 1100 lbs. The maths makes sense though, i'll try to make a good estimation of the base area and go through it from there. Location: Minneapolis,MN, USA If the bottom is flat I get about 60 lbs displacement per inch. Now you must add the weight of the boat, the gear, and passengers to detremin where the water line will be.
Location: Cumbria, England cheers guys, I fully understand the maths now, so thats a great help in choosing what design I decide to build. Cheers Kevin for the reassurance as I got 226lbs, and as Gary mentioned I am aware that the weight of the boat has to be taken away from this too. If I cant get a 10ft piece of ply and have to make a joint along the base, then I will scale the design up a little or even go for a 2 man canoe. Vikings are known as fearless warriors, but they wouldn’t have gotten anywhere without being great shipbuilders.
According to Jorn Loset of Norway, most skills and knowledge were passed down verbally without any drawings or diagrams. The following video shows the building of a present day Viking ship using the same techniques as originally used. David enjoys research and writing about cutting edge technologies that hold the promise of improving conditions for all life on planet earth.
Please let me inform you that we also in Denmark have a museum with these great ships from 1000 years ago. It is hard to take photos while applying epoxy, so this is a brief post on fiberglassing the inside of the hull and the bowboard slot. Another shot of the bowboard slot, and you can see the inside of the hull completely fiberglassed. To fiberglass inside the bowboard slot, I built a blank the size of the inside of the slot.
Ended up with two sides, one 28 inch "transom" (you know what I mean) and another 24 inch bulkhead.
Therefore, the displacement-length ratio is a good indication of the relative speed of the canoe to other hull designs; the lower the ratio, the faster the canoe.
The narrower the beam, the less wetted surface area present, creating less drag resistance on the canoe. A symetric canoe with the beam centered along the length will be more difficult to turn than one with the beam slightly closer to the stern. The more extreme the rocker, the more maneuverable the canoe is, but the less tracking ability available. The section shape could be varied, along with the length and curvature of the bow and stern. The cross-sections were created one by one and used to derive section properties (above, top right). Norse ship design was passed down from father to son from generation to generation as the art was developed and refined.
Traditional boat making before the Vikings involved the use of timber formed into strakes or ribs.
The earliest boats were waterproofed with animal guts, which also served to bind the strakes together.

It is placed in town Roskilde which was the capital of Denmark many centuries ago and where most of the Danish kings and queens are buried at the Roskilde dome.
Someone with a reasonable sized workshop declares open house for a weekend, and people gather, some with projects of various sizes. The pics are very explicit and the method is rather simple, not high tech but the results are truly very good. But often when I see the final products I have the feeling that all these technics were more for the marketing. MO is not complicated like that slick boat Clark put up, but still worried about details of project. For molds he uses female plywood station molds, cut by CNC router, at 12" or so spacing (may be closer). For this reason, Night Fury has its beam located towards the stern for the increase in hydrodynamic and turn capacity.
In addition, Prolines was used to predict the location of the waterline along the canoe and to find the hydraulic load. Then, section properties such as moment of inertia and center of gravity could be determined. When all the sections were created, a 3D model was completed to showcase the hull shape and center of gravity of the hull along its length. Since one cubic metre weighs one ton it would displace roughly 96 kg (very approximate) to convert to pounds kg x 2.2.
Then I wrapped several layers of fiberglass soaked in epoxy around the blank and jammed it into the slot (making sure it was positioned correctly).
They experienced people provide skills transfer, the people with projects get help, and the people who are new to all this look and learn. Dont get me wrong, even if you are doing wet layup over battens you have plenty of battens, but its fairly rigid stuff: 8mm foam is, I guess, not noticeably more floppy than 3mm plywood. That shows that in small boats it's not necessary to go to complex methods, but to use at its best a good simple method. Was only after process info, and should have done it, but the material here was fascinating and forgot about it, especially the Lindahl site link and the F boat link Doug provided. The foam strips are laid into the mold, very similar to the way a wood strip hul would be built. In addition, cross-sections were also printed from AutoCAD to be used as a template when cutting plywood during mold construction. The fiberglass extended past the slot a few inches at the top, bottom, and front of the bow, and I wrapped these edges around the bow. The exotics are much more forgiving in that you can spot something that's not quite right and reinforce or otherwise sort it so much more easily.
Then you just add and take away stuff until its as close to fair as your patience will stand. That's also pretty expensive and sailing is loosing people, the boats are truly out of reach for low medium income people, or for DIY. The trouble with foam carbon isn't skill so much as the finishing work and all the dust (I hate the dust) and stuff. I saw a sample and thought he used vacuum bagging but he said it was just knowing how to use a squegee. Its awfully depressing if you look at say Chris Maas' workmanship and think, I could never do that. Maybe its not quite trick enough to win a worlds, but the chances of it doing that with me steering are exactly zero anyway so what does it matter?

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