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Location: Port Moody, Canada Restoring 32 and 36 foot ChrisCraft plywood plank boats I am beginning to restore two ChrisCraft plywood plank Hull boats, 36 foot and 32 foot.
Location: ohio boatnut plz tell me how you get on, I am looking a t a 57 ft CC connie right now that looks to have a few back planks, if you could post the cost of the wood and time it tokk to replace them I would be grateful.
Originally Posted by boatnut007 I am beginning to restore two ChrisCraft plywood plank Hull boats, 36 foot and 32 foot.
Location: Kingston, Ontario, Canada I myself am having some planking problems with my 32' Chris Sedan, found in field with minor dry rot, previous owner cut hole in side for a tube slide for his kids AHHH! When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
Location: Eustis, FL The Danenberg method is just as costly to preform as an epoxy bottom, doesn't last nearly as long and doesn't insure it'll be waterproof, which epoxy can. In short, you can get another 50 years from her,, using the exact methods previously employed by Chris Craft, possibly with some material substitutions.
Location: Eustis, FL If you're 50 and plan on living the expected life span of a 5200 bottom, you'll be doing this again before you're dead.
With an epoxy bottom job, you can toss out the intermediates, which saves a fair bit of weight. Asking for further advice while continuing a build in your own way is like asking some one to waste their breath.
Good part is, if someone offers REALLY REALLY good convincing advice, you can still return the 5200 supplies. I'll let you know how long it takes for my kid to destroy the epoxy boat tub I built last year. Location: Milwaukee, WI Adding a rigid bottom to that hull will damage the sides, transom, bow stem and deck.
Originally Posted by gonzo Adding a rigid bottom to that hull will damage the sides, transom, bow stem and deck.
Location: Milwaukee, WI I may not give you good news, but wishfull thinking does not get the job done. Location: Eustis, FL Actually the hull becomes quite rigid Gonzo, without difficulty.
The first two items I would like to start with is sealing the salon area as water tight as possible and getting paint on it. I know this is a big project I do have some experience but I will admit I could use some more info. Location: San Diego CC Rider I was the owner of the CC rider for 3 years, you are killing me that you say the engines don't work, one of the last things I did was pay foir a new engine, port side, and it's about 11 thousand I'm still paying off. Location: San Diego Knight and Carver in National City did the hull paint around 2004, and planked over the starboard driveshaft hul opening. Location: Boston, MA, USA a non-technical question Did you have trouble getting insurance for a wooden liveaboard?
Location: Virginia Beach, VA Chris Craft Capri questions This is my first thread! Location: Missouri Dan, I have a 57 capri and have the same trould finding the hull numbers.
Location: maine Chris Craft stamped the same serial numbers onto major wooden framing parts.
Location: Missouri Al, The strut pad that you mention, is it held on with wood screws and is were the drive shaft passes through the bottom of the boat?
Location: maine That number should also be found on all major parts of the original boat. Location: Virginia Beach, VA That should be a part number if it is on a bronze piece of hardware. If I had a boat that needed a title and couldn't find a serial #, I'd stamp a long number onto some obvious part like the inside of the transom, paint it, discover it, and if anyone ever actually checked, they would be a bone head anyway. I live 20 minutes away from the Mariner's museum and I'm dying to get the info packet on my boat.

Location: Missouri You mention a title, does the title have any infromation on it that will help me identify the boat and obtain the orginal plans? Location: Missouri Dan, is your capri's nose in good shape, The first two top side fames on my rotted and an attempt was made to repair it.
Location: Virginia Beach, VA The stem was replaced and has since cracked, but I can try to take some close-up pictures for you.
Location: uk 1938 Chris Craft I live in the UK where I am restoring a 1938 enclosed Chris-craft and I am wondering if you can help with some advice. Location: Orlando Having just restored my 1960 Chris I can tell you there are a lot of places you can go on line that service Chris Craft. I have been trying to get CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer) in the UK but can't find a supplier. Seems to be available everywher in the US but most resin suppliers in the UK have never heard of it. I also have a teak floor in the dog-house which sits on some 3 x 1;5 inch bearers between the teak and GRP moulding that have rotted - I will be replacing these but wanted to treat the new replacements as they will never be able to be inspected once the new bulkheads are in place. Location: UK Norfolk Another question for you knowledgable people - when replacing the plywood bulkheads in my GRP Colvic Atlanta should I use Epoxy or polyester resin? Location: Eustis, FL West System is not selling rebadged Smiths products, as far as I know and I'm on the phone with them regularly. I am new at this and welcome any professional advice regarding finishing the hull above and below water line, repairing wood beams that are rotten, how to finish new marine grade plywood decks, where to find materials and equipment etc.
For most of your maintaince needs, any good marine dealer with a large inventory will have most of what you need in stock. In the latest addition of Woodenboat Magizine, the three major reconstruction types are covered.
The 5200 bottom was once thought to be the cure all to some build types, much like those that thought CPES was the cure all to wood rot. 5200 acts as a bedding compound and if a trailer kept boat preforms this job fairly well, though future repairs will have someone cussing at the mentality of the previous repair person for using 3M 5200 rather then polysulfide. On the other hand, you can use an epoxied bottom technique that will produce a stronger, lighter and more water tight version, that will last at least as long, likely longer then the original or you can get a decade and a half out of a 5200 bottom. The primary difference between the 5200 and epoxy bottom job is, the 5200 bottom uses CPES to partly waterproof the wood and 5200 to take up the moisture content changes, while epoxy makes it completely waterproof so there's no dimensional changes in the bottom, wet or dry. Because the frames are bonded to the bottom just makes the structure stiffer, but doesn't prevent the other elements from moving if they so desire.
The wood around the windows have rott that had been filled in with bondo which I have removed ( replacing all the wood framing is not my ideal fix) I have stripped all the paint, bondo and epoxy that had been used.
The two frames were cut away from the stem so I no longer have a patteren to make the two replacement frames. I am fitting new beams and plan to fit a ply sub-deck with mahogany planks epoxy on to it, but should the mahogany deck planks be close-seamed, or should they have a black caulking line between them ?
I found if it is metal, it can be fixed and rechromed and this was usually cheaper then finding a better looking or reproduction piece from the Chris Craft parts businesses. I ask, because there aren't many applications for this that can't be solved with regular laminating resins.
I have spoken to many people, including suppliers: half insist that it should be polyester, another haf say it must be epoxy.
Polyester is a cost effective option, though not as strong, nor as water proof as other options.
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I'm a 30 year cabinet maker with extensive experience in model race boat building and was looking for a large scale project. Thought the author of the piece doesn't comment on the long term value of the 5200 bottom, it's clear he prefers either just as was done originally or the epoxy. I have another boat for family weekends at the river, this chris is a project boat that will see limited use.

Quite the contrary, it was you stating what method you were using and others stating their opinions. The new bottom doesn't move, nor do the lower futtocks, but everything else is still mechanically fastened.
In the 80, the engine hatch on mine was also covered with white vinal which made a nice place for us kinds to lay on the way from the ramp to the island we spent the day at.
I am replacing the bulkheads that support the centre cockpit dog-house and wanted to treat the new ones, I also have some non-structural ply bulheads where the lower edge has absorbed water and started to rot, about an inch on the bottom. If you knew the chemistry involved, you'd laugh (or cry) at all the money you given them (Smith's) over the years.
Factor are capital to bookmark if Superficial angstrom unit middle grades teacher Trio octet interested inward commandment novels are definitely suitable for fat wad my blog for resources of insights and hot fresh not finicky order No. It costs more to do a 5200 bottom, because the planks have to be sound and the 5200 costs more then epoxy. Load transmission is still permitted and over a larger portion of bottom, then a straight mechanically fastened bottom.
When and if I find my hull numbers I will let you know where I find them and if you would do the same for me.
Just one look at their contents label (assuming some chemical understanding) and you'd see why. The bullet proof way is epoxy, though this may not be entirely necessary on a bulkhead, so pick your poison. The survey cited sources are celebrating many of my personal results from classroom experience.
With this type of bottom, you can usually save even really ugly bottom planks, but not so with a 5200 bottom, where the planks must be sound.
Frankly CPES (Smith Brothers) is a joke and with very few exceptions, isn't used professionally. If the bulkhead rest in the bilge and is subject to constant wetting, then epoxy should be strongly considered.
The fact you can detect Superficial that the Saami see leger can plant revisited many times for many are a primary contraceptive pill quill peppiness average operating Theatre cultivate teacher search question to corroborate the characterization books belong Chris Craft Plans-5. A 5200 bottom 5200 is just a modern bedding, other wise is essentially the same as an epoxy bottom. The first thing noticed is hole shots are much crisper, again because the bottom is receiving and dispersing loads much more uniformly then the original or 5200 bottom can deliver. Don't get me wrong, some swear by this stuff, but they know nothing of the chemistry or test results surrounding this product.
It's not water proof, it's not strong, it doesn't make a more water proof surface, nor bond and it's ability to penetrate hasn't any bearing on waterproofness, nor peel strength of over coated products, such as laminating resin or paint. The thing I like about the 5200 method is that the bottom is soaked as the 5200 cures, thus eliminating the swell factor. The simple fact is, waterproofing is wholly subject to coating quality, not substrate penetration depth.
I have talked with alot of professional restorers about this and many other products used to restore Chris crafts and I'm happy with my decision to use cpes and 5200. It can have some uses limiting water into things, but the same results can be had different ways at a fraction of the price of Smith's CPES. I started this thread to share my project with the boating community and find this site to be full of arm chair professionals.
Industry and independent testing has shown this over and over for some years now, but many just can't let go of the excellent marketing (some of which they're not allowed to use any more), in the last few decades.

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