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When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. The hull-deck joint is mainly made of an outward flange, inward flange, or shoebox arrangement.
Our professional and knowledgeable brokers are not only attuned to the ever changing international market but also have thousands of bluewater miles under their belts. Jordan Yacht and Ship Company represents fine sail and power yachts worldwide, both new and used.
This is not the time to question your boat.” Jordan Yacht and Ship Company never underestimates you or your dreams. Location: canton oh Tja If the deck it's self doesn't need replaced you might want think about cutting out the rear part of the motor well which will give you access to the center of the transom and the balance can be reached from under the deck. Location: atlanta,ga mirage 236 pics I also have many of the parts to complete the boat.
Location: atlanta,ga 236 details The hull is not damaged although there is some surface crazing.
Location: Florida I really don't feel like posting any more or entertaining this useless thread. Location: Ft laudardale How many boats have been produced with the mold, you have blue prints, and ing calculations? Originally Posted by BobBill Have been mulling Steve Clark's idea about using sealed plastic bottles etc for bouyancy or floatation inside dinghy hull and Par's suggestion of not using any devices, especially foam.
As to tool to separate deck from hull, Perhaps a well shaped old hacksaw or flat metal, even a flattened and shaped BBQ charcoal heater or metal, connected to a rheostat and 110 AC, to heat may be useful. The plastic bottle comment was perhaps a little tongue in cheek, but some type of cheap redundant flotation that doesn't absorb water is better than nothing. Yes Bill, in the late 60s, I raced a few times with some guys and we too used whatever we could to hang in the I 14s for floatation. One hing to try is to cut out the putty as deeply and carefully as you can and then start wedging the pieces apart.
It is also a good idea to have a cradle of some sort to keep things in shape while they are apart. Your comments about the jugs is good, was thinking about the large water jugs campers use, so they can be removed or resealed; milk jugs would be fine, but for the potential rattling and caps coming off. Yes, a basic jig is called for, and I will work some sort of design along your suggestions out. After I clean out the old foam and clean the interior up, I will fix the soft parts of the hull and re glass the bottom where worn, reinforce the hardware anchor points,the rest will be a breeze.
Location: Southern California Yet another Kite restore I too am a proud owner of a Kite.


Location: Boston, MA Almost there So I we have the Kite put back together now and we have the first coat of paint on her, after the primer of course. I will be cutting 4 access ports in deck sides and maybe adding some bundled pool noodles instead of foam, which gets water logged. Maybe Kite sailor can detail what needed further separation as he popped off his deck, like dagger trunk etc? She arrived around 10 Friday morning and we thought we'd be in the water by noon and cruising, but alas it was not meant to be.
That night and the next day we waited as several layers of varnish dried, and yes we lightly sanded in between 220 grade.
We continued to sail for the next couple of hours and even capsized a 2nd time, but righted and kept on.
As you can see with the blue one, I have traded a soft hull for one with serious gelcoat issues. Please call me if you have other questions Thanks GIOVANNI 239-285-3706 This hull was redone like new. Location: Los Angeles 600 gallon tank suggests this is not an ex-racer, but an ex-drug runner. Location: michigan becareful to only install the floor below the exsisting seats. The deck is flat or curves outward over the inward curve of the fiberglass hull and downward.
The joint protrutes outward gives a worker more space and access to stop leakage along the joint. The deck molds in such a way to create a downward flange that fits over a simple flangeless hull. We have the experience and integrity to ensure that your purchase of a boat will be a decision that you can be proud of. I have some time to check it out, as there is another fargin' four inches of snow on the ground here. For us, nothing ever stayed in place during competitions and we would have to deal with rolling debris all the time.
This was specified in the Laser building manual, and every laser built has plastic jugs inside for emergency flotation. It is unlikely that the boat was assembled in space, more likely it was bonded before the hull was released from the mold, or was bonded in an assembly jug of some sort.
Am using multi tool to dig out the poly in the deckjoint and will see how effective that might be.
Cigarette - Hull and Deck I had a call from a guy that raced boats in the 70's, and he told me that this boat could be one of Don's personal boats.


Cigarette Hull and Deck Are you interested on the 36' cigerette or the history on the boat?
To create the inward flange using a female mold, builders use an extra fitting to support the inward flange while laying up the hull. Call or email for an appointment and let Jordan Yacht and Ship Company help you launch your dreams. Those long swimming tubes (pool noodles?) do sound silly but they can be bundled and are way low in cost, easily replaced.
Am turboing this Kite a bit, with foil rudder and rig from Force 5 to compliment original equip.
Although the deck has some soft spots, which, if I get aggressive about it, I'll stiffen on the deck surface.
Hylas uses 6″ centers and adhesive to connect the inward flange of the hull to the deck. They then cover the flange with a rub rail or metal toe rail (terminology is caprail if wood).
The forces on this arrangement pull the deck away from the hull popping nastily the screw away from the joint.
I'd be curious if anyone has built some vacuumed glass sheets with a non-skid pattern pressed into them. Production boats like Hunter, Catalina use outward flanges and quickly bond them with aerospace adhesives with screws only for alignment.
And at that point I was glad we did not have the original dagger, since it would have been covered in glass and would've required an altogether different approach to its downsizing. This is the original 236 hull that the mold was pulled off of, (the boat is a shortened Kelly 24) and the deck was a custom light weight that I had built at the factory. They hull comes out of the female mold or male plug without worrying about removing a fixture. It could be completed as a board boat, lift keel or fixed keel, there is no difference in the hulls. I don't have a keel as I was planing on building a lifting bulb keel, but I do have rudders, masts, rigging and many other parts to complete it. The 236 was a really good design that was compromised by the MORC rule and the builder's market limitations. It could be finished as a competitive racer, roomy trailerable or as I did with mine, both.



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