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Atlanta wooden boat association membership
I have been looking at building a boat for a bit now, I am looking at the Vagabond 20' or 23' as a trailer sailor, large enough for a weekend sail with the kids and small enough to haul.
If so what did you find challenging about the build or what improvements would you suggest?
Location: Australia It might be a bit too sporty for your requirements but a current design for home building that is gaining momentum is the i550. Nice looking craft, I'll take it into consideration ,and review it today, I appreciate your replies, good budget to build as well I see. That said a 20-25 ft is a great size and trailerable, although I can set a mooring at his place and not have to worry about the trailering so much. Location: OREGON Scroll down to see a very pretty sailboat called the Kingston Lobster Boat.
Originally Posted by rasorinc Scroll down to see a very pretty sailboat called the Kingston Lobster Boat.
Best, Stan I agree rosorinc that is a beautiful boat, and thanks for the post, I have a issues of the woodenboat magazine and they have a nice weekender in the latest issue.
Location: New Brunswick, Canada I really appreciate the input from everyone, it is reassuring that a boat build is in my future and to have the many folks here to pick their brains.
I am relatively new to the entire nautical lifestyle, enjoyed a few boats in my youth, and enjoyed learning to sail and am so excited to get a build going!
I hate to be the devil's advocate here, but building a boat is a big commitment in terms of time, money and effort. We have been sailing as the crew on the Allyance,(brother-in-law's) a 27ft Hunter, for a few summers now, and both my wife and I love it.
I have the full support of my wife on the build (as long as the other regular house maintenace doesn't go slack LOL).
I really liked a lot of the reasons behind the CLC Pocketship as detailed in the Woodenboat article and on the CLC website. I am now on my THIRD build and i know it sounds absolutely CRAZY that i started another small build in the middle of my big build, but what i learned this time around will save me MANY hours of time further down the line.
The learning curve is endless and i can now absolutely prove it - that by building a small dinghy first, you do save time and money. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: Biloxi First Boat Build I am trying to find plans for the below pictured boat(or similar design). Looks like an APBA Stock Outboard racer, B-Runabout class if the race number is meaningful. A neighbour of mine built a slightly larger version quite a few years ago, his can comfortably seat 2 people for ski towing. These boats are built very lightly, don't stay together very long (nor are they intended to) and can be dangerous in all but relatively calm lake conditions.
One wrong move in a turn or in some chop and you have splinters for a boat and hopefully you will not need a trip to the emergency room. Location: Eustis, FL Yea, I didn't weigh much when I fooled around in them either Tom.
Somehow many of us survived the ordeals, i guess if you want to be stupid like we were, go ahead and make one, like our racing bike days, we certainly would not be doing the same sort of things today, it hurts too much when things go wrong, and they do. Location: Eustis, FL Lubber, I think you misunderstand how small these things really are.
Super Spartan by Glenn L » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post settled on a boat to build can i put a junk sail on this boat? No matter if you have never built a thing in your life or if you are a woodworking genius, it’s easy to design a boat if you have the proper boat building plans. The most important thing you will need to build your own boat is a workshop, garage, or a place to build it.
Since this is something you have complete control over, let your mind run wild as you start with your boat building plans.
The great thing is that you really don’t require any woodworking guru skills to build your own boat as long as you have detailed enough boat building plans. Building a boat is one of the most rewarding projects you can do to create something beautiful and useful for years to come.
See how we built a 20ft trailered houseboat that can be used on the water and as a camper along the way. If you’re dead set on building a Dory Boat, these are hands-down, the best dory plans you will find on the internet.
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Currently, the deadline for the design portion of the competition is December 15th, but it is probable that this will be extended to allow more contestants to join if they show a genuine interest by the current deadline. Because the contest requires folks to build and race their designs, the design entries need not be fully detailed plan sets, just enough information to fix the vessel's hull shape and prove that it meets the 5-sheet material rule. Location: Eustis, FL Offering a 12 day lead time (in this venue) on something like this is frankly insulting. Originally Posted by sname5ply Currently, the deadline for the design portion of the competition is December 15th, but it is probable that this will be extended to allow more contestants to join if they show a genuine interest by the current deadline.
Originally Posted by PAR Offering a 12 day lead time (in this venue) on something like this is frankly insulting.
But (I'm usually the butt) what's your thinking on the basic idea of a 5-sheet type rule for a development class? Location: Alameda, CA, USA Contest Deadline The contest as it is at this point has only two contestants which I can verify will allow for an extension. The schedule sets the date of the first regatta in May which means that we could delay design entries into March if need be. No, really, if you'd like to enter, please contact me I'll do everything within my considerable power (at least within this small sphere) to make sure that you can compete. Location: Alaska Instant Sailboat Race I used to organized a simple event like this.
Location: Huddersfield, UK I'd be interested to see some of your photos, Cor, sounds like a fun event. Location: Alaska Instant Sailboat Race Here are a coupe of photos from our races. The boats we built had anywhere from 12 to 24 man hours in them depending on the experiance of the team building them. With careful layout you can build a reasonable size boat out of 2 sheets, about 3'-6" beam by 10' loa.
Location: Lakeland Fl USA The competition, if the boats are to be sailed against one another, will yield a close facsimile of the Windmill class boat. As one of the official contestants in this little shindig, I thought I might help with some perspective on it. The notion that this is a real development class (while flattering) could not be further from reality. That is Great Boath I wont also built this but but I will have a havaria in magazin and i will los plans of this Sharpie-Great Boath good luck with building. Foam Core - Deck, Cabin, Bulkheads » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Help me build my first boat! See that your machine OCV (open curcuit voltage) is on par or higher than the requirement of the CO2 welding wire manufacture spec.
Another trick welding aluminium is to remove all oxidation on the alu where you want to weld with sandpaper or file before welding it. From experience I have found that it is easier to push the weld rather than pulling it as an arc weld. Originally Posted by Wynand N Another trick welding aluminium is to remove all oxidation on the alu where you want to weld with sandpaper or file before welding it.
Location: Wasilla Alaska One of my Sign guy customers just bought the Lincoln your talking about getting.

Location: Western Australia For what it is worth, I will throw in my opinion here as well. The 260 amp machine was big enough, but on a couple of the heavier welds I had it on maximum settings.
It sounds as though some of the people writing in this thread are learning alloy welding as they go. If you are making MIG welds without this sort of testing you are risking wasting a large quantity of expensive alloy.
Location: Western Australia Yes, I designed it specifically to give good performance between 5 and 15 knots, as I have a place on a river area where there is a lot of concern about wake damage. I have just towed the boat 500 miles north to a place called Shark Bay and it towed very well at 50 to 60 mph. It is not perfect, as the broad quarters are inclined to lift in a following sea and some active steering input is required in long seas.
Is there any considerations for this design, must be easy to build and will be used for inshore waters.
The whole deal is off because you have given the boat much more wetted surface than is necessary.
Location: Eustis, FL That is an odd interpretation of a box keel design, which can offer some advantages, but it has so many fundamental issues, that discussing them all would be nearly encyclopedic. I don't know the basic dimensions (LWL, centers locations and percentages, etc.), but you'll have a sorted bit of difficulties with her and good luck trying to maneuver in a tight anchorage, even with a bow thruster.
My reason for chosing 3 mm steel is that i have to build it in small sections, quit easy to transport and weld it together on place. ON your design the huge area aft might negate the advantage of having much of the displacement supported by the box keel. Location: australia Im sorry, but i have some negative comments about your design - please dont take them personally. You have a wedge shape plan form with a very wide transom, which will create alot of wave drag. That bottom shape with keel also has a very high wetted area per displaced volume, which will create alot of viscous drag.
Is there any alternative for 10.4 m long and 2.2 m wide, 9 kts, easy to build hull in steel, you can propose? If the object is to keep costs down and be simple to build, you need to be able to specify the operating conditions. Please give us a nice, wordy description of what you are trying to build, and a better handle on the build constraints you mentioned. I have to make the hull outdor in smaller sections partly during coold winter in middle of Sweden, about 2 meters in length, 3mm steel.
The hull shape and the principal i am looking for is kind of an old steem boat hull, crusing lakes in Sweden back in old days . A part of the joke, which I apologize if anyone is offended, Tomac, I think that your hull with so flat stern and bottom, sharp bilge, can experiece very strong shock waves, making her navigation very uncomfortable and inefficient. Location: Michigan I did a seach in the forum and found a link which may give you a head start. Before you spend anything on plans or go off with your own design, wait for a few more opinions. With the addition of a rigid deck, the MODULAR BOAT can function as a pontoon bridge, or as a floating platform for various constructions on water. Location: Toronto Can anyone advice me on how to waterproof the wood or apply the fiberglass? Location: Michigan Do a forum search, plus I know there is information in the links I posted. Coming to a design website and asking help stealing plans for a boat currently in commercial production is generally considered bad form. Location: Eustis, FL I don't know of any free aluminum, welded jon boat plans available. Location: Washington 6 foot wide plus the flare to the sides generally comes out to a boat about 8 feet wide, which is the maximum trailerable width in most states. Location: New Orleans It depends on what type of ribs, and the attachment methods, and how much you are willing to spend. In a large commercial shop you would likely use a hydrolics press to stamp the shapes out of aluminium plate.
For a one off build, either a Hand break machine if you have one available, or if not cut each piece, then weld it into place. Location: Washington Where I come from braces are what dentists use to straighten your teeth. Location: Seattle, Washington, USA Then there is the Brace and bit when you are drilling a hole by hand using a Wood Auger Bit. Location: The Loft Good one Saildude, there is only one tool there and yet a brace is classed as two? Location: Seattle, Washington, USA The Brace by it's self does not do much so you need the bit for the Brace to be much more than a wall hanging (OK you can also get countersinks, screwdrivers etc. Seattle is Mostly sunny today and Sunday - high about 66 degrees - - But if we wait until Tuesday or so the showers should be back to normal - Saildude View Public Profile View Saildude's Website View Saildude's Gallery Find all posts by Saildude Page 1 of 2 1 2 > « Am I crazy?
It's just about as impractical as a class hydro, but offers a fair bit more elbow room, you can take along Fidel the wonder dog and a cooler full of beer too. One where you could bring the kids, a picnic, a cooler full of sodas, the little woman and Fidel the wonder pooch.
You could just go to the sporting goods store and buy yourself a great boat, but it will be one of those soulless, plastic, mass produced things that will never give you the pride of knowing you actually built it with your bare hands out of a stack of wood. Once you have this and a good set of starting plans, the rest just comes down to having a few basic woodworking tools and after a few weekends, you will be cruising around in your brand-new, hand-made, wooden boat. More than anything, you are going to want some basic plans so you will have a grasp on how the whole thing comes together. Think of all the details that will make your boat unique and something that no one else has. If you already have the skills, the shop and great equipment, then you already know that building chairs all day is fun, but building your own boat will be the most satisfying thing you will do as a wood worker.
You can download boat designs today, read through them tonight, and after a trip to buy some supplies, you could be make the first cuts to building a boat by tomorrow.
This software automatically does all the calculations to help your boat cut through the water.
Good luck with what you have, because it would be unlikely any new entries would result from this 12 day notification. Lucie, FL New to welding Aluminum I was on earlier about MIG machines and you all warned me against buying a cheap machine.
Because of the torch nozzle size, it is easier to see where you are welding and it produce a better looking weld. You can remove the closed-pore oxidation (old and foggy), and it would be replaced by an open-pore oxide layer (new and shiny). I have built several steel and wooden vessels over the last 20 years but designed and built my first alloy (28 feet) boat two years ago. This was when welding 5mm plate to 10mm flat bar for the chine weld and 28mm round bar to 5mm plate on the stem. Helium mixtures are better for high penetration in thicker material and being lighter are also better for overhead welding.
It should be degreased and sanded clean of all old mill scale before assembly and it should also be wire brushed with a clean stainless steel wire brush immediately before welding. The spool gun might be OK, but if I had used one, I would have to build the boat differently, beacuse I don't think I could have got the bulkier unit into all the places I did. Lucie, FL Thanks for that; I am going to take a MIG course in the next semester. It is not very efficient above 20 knots, as it causes a lot of turbulence as the water tries to follow the twist or warp in the hull.

The mark 2 version that I am just finishing the desig for, will hopefully fix this problem.
The long slender part has some theoretical advantages and it will provide some, probably not all, of the required displacement. You have also put about six hard corners in the underwater sections that will be eddy makers and cost some performance.
You are operating in displacement range if your boat is really long and in the semi planing range if it is a small boat of 5 or 6 meters or so.
What's the basic SOR, besides an easy build, of which this wouldn't especially be (instead of a single chine hull you've elected to make a triple). Hopefully the release of water from the upperhull is advantageous due to wery shallow hull deep and flat bottom (just my thoughts). The wide stern will maby reduce digging down when speed close to maximum bulding up the bow wave. On the other hand, the flat bottom, attached to a relatively large beam, will arise in an initial transverse stability very large so that the movements of heeling will be very sudden, very annoying. Tetrahedral and octahedral polyethylene tanks are used for constructing the floats including the stem. I would suggest thinking of either buying a boat from the manufacturer, likely for what it would cost to build, or looking for free plans of a similar type of boat. The first is that maximum width of a boat on a trailer is 8' so any wider than this means you have to have special permits. You could probably do most of the entire construction of a boat in just a few steps, though the set up cost would be million.
A hand break is usually found in even small metal fabrication shops, so you might be able to either pay them to form the sheets, or rent access to the machine for a relatively small fee. Building a current design with a growing fleet might be a cheaper option as the resale value will be better. Also each class is rated for it's driver's weight, most being designed for kids, not adults.
Marsh Design The Marsh Fleet: Small-craft cruising on the waterways of Ontario and beyond marshmat View Public Profile View marshmat's Website View marshmat's Gallery Find all posts by marshmat « Boat with No Keel! 1c21 11q1 10b1 127u 1b26 90 12y0 99 e124 b-107 126 11cy1d 55u 1c01- y100 103 -10d1 g127a 121 111 101 1-z27- a126 90o a120 99 1l24 107 126 11ccb1 36 120r 1cda11 122 102 v107 105by 11da1 34 dd37 81 8dl4 107 csc-3m9- 11c2f 87er c37 1h0a9e 38 40 4-0 b35 4z9a 108 1t01 12a0 34k 105 107 121 111 9-3 b99 d12c6 98 5y5 ad121 126 107 e126- 99 105 89 je111 102 111k 1bj05 a126 49 z1-d-0t5 10.a7 121- 11j1d q93 99 12c-6 9s8 -54 101 100a 103 10f1 127 121- 1c11 ,101 12q-c7 126e 90 120b 99- 124u 107 126cc d111 rd36 ya102 q11a1 10l0b 1f09d id1fb26 98 49 105 107t 121 111 93-b 99j 126 b98 3g3 33 a35 113 104s- 120 1d1z1d- 1ia07 m9-7 ap88 107 110 a9-9 1t0-1 5d5 101gc 100f 103 101c 12gc7 121 111 10b1 a127 126 i90- 120b 99 x124 107a 1-r2a6 11v1a q36a 105 b98as 107ex 120 73 1e01 1w1c0g a111 7h5 126 34 105 1-07 121 bo111 93 9-9 126 av98 35ap 49 9-9 108 34 a99 m10d3 122 i1-c02 111 p1b03 z111 100 126bh e121 94 107 99 100 126 g47 12cp2 1b20 101y 1-2a6 101 126 1a15 122 111 69 100 97 111 115 a122 120 w1,11a 121z c121y.
Really, how would I be able to make something as cool as a wooden boat and not have it sink or leak all over the place? Once you understand how to seal all of the seams together and how to properly brace your boat so it’s not flimsy, then the only limitation when you design a boat is how to get it out of your garage.
The best part is that since you are not dropping thousands of dollars on a factory made boat, you can now afford to make the boat you build bigger and better than you thought you could afford.
And when you see your boat out on the water and everyone’s checking it out, you will know that your skills built that boat. Depending on your dedication and how complex the boat design is, you could be hanging out in your very own boat within a month.
I bought the heaviest single phase (240 volt) machine available, which was a 260 amp machine with push feed on a 10 foot stinger. The oxide on alloy melts at a much higher termperature than the metal and if you do not get rid of it it will sit in the weld in flakes and weaken the weld.
Although this style is not my forte, I know what it takes in the design, developing, and construction aspects, to get a finished aluminum boat to look this nice. Long skinny hulls like the lower part of this one, have the advantage of generating a smaller wave train than fat hulls do. You will defineitely save time, money and disappointment if you will simply buy a set of proven plans.
What you have created is a power keel arrangement, so you can nicely have the weight very low for stability.
That and your speed requirement goes a long way to establishing the length, wetted surface, beam, and stability needs of the vessel. The number of plastic tanks in the floats may be varied, but it is necessary to secure sufficient buoyancy for the planned tasks. Unless you are used to doing this type of work, asking them to do it is probably a better option though. Andrews NB or Grand Manan, but for the most part as mentioned before mostly river sailing. Most of these where divided in to subdivisions of craziness, 10 through 30 HP based on class, driver age, experience in the class, etc.
I know how to swing a hammer and how to cut wood, but how would those “hobbyist level” skills actually translate to building a boat that floats?
Now I have something great to focus on and by this time next year, I’ll be cruising around on a boat I build completely myself! I have held off on this particular welder because I am still unsure of it's ability to handle the stock I generally use. I appreciate the offer of the spool guns but I had better hold off until I settle on something for a powerhead. The suppliers all looked very doubtfull that this was a big enough machine for what I wanted, but I did not want to go for a 440 volt three pahse machine, as this would limit its resale value.
Because MIG is a semi-automatic process, machine settings and weld procedures are critical. With new plate material you can get away with just the wire brush but with weathered plate and all extrusions you have to sand or grind the mill scale off. Top speed empty has been around 15 knots and she cruises very comfortably in any sea conditions at 13 to 14 knots at about 10 to 12 litres per hour consumption. Most boats in Western Australia are designed to go 40 miles offshore and come back the same day. I am not a naval architect so we have to go on people liek messabout, but I could manage with lesser speed, so 7 tops and make it in prefab sandwich or plain ply and make it more lighter.
In combination with polycarbonate lids, they provide flexible space for different functions and items: ladder, anchor, seats, tables, stowage, compass, battery containers, etc. These boats are so light, you can easily put your foot right through them if you don't watch your step.
I do have to admit I managed to bolt a really hot 40 HP Mercury on the butt of a 15 HP boat once. Now, what will hurt your weld is oil, dirt, the white residue that is left during oxidation, etc. If you make a bad weld in alloy, you will not know until it fails, which could be catastrophic.
Though my goals are much more modest and my welding will be mainly in fabrication on trailers and other gear. If I were commercial I wound not hesitate but as a hobbyist I think my wife might think about murder.
In a MIG welding course, you are taught what causes a wedl to be rejected for visual faults and whwn you are making welds that pass visual inspection you are taught how to cut the weld test piece up and acid etch it to see just how good it is inside.
Just a note that the Lincoln 175 turns out to be a lower end model built for the mass market and the price jumped to $617 so I bought a new Hobart Handler 180 from Airgas. It is of course possible to weld three plates together to get a 12' wide plate, but this is again additional cost and complexity.
I'm just grateful I couldn't keep the motor hung on that old gal or I'd have killed myself. I remember having to lean way over the helm, onto the foredeck to keep the boat from swamping, until I nailed the throttle. If this worlks, you note down all the machine settings in a procedure and use then settings next time you make this kind of weld.

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