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Fold two layers of heavy duty aluminum foil to a lidless box of about 9" x 9" base area and about 4" high sides. Originally Posted by rayaldridge This is what I'm building now-- a folding cat for cruising two people that can be trailed behind a compact car. Location: Cocoa Beach, Florida Slider Ray, just out of curiosity ,why do you have the boards angled outboard at the bottom? Location: UK 10m LOA Catamaran - continuation of design work I carried on doodling my proposed 10m LOA catamaran design at odd moments over the last few months. I am keeping the structure demountable, so that it can be transported on a large lorry, preferably one of those lorries with a hydraulic crane for loading.
I have retained the moveable wheelhouse shelter, I think this is a nice feature allowing one to sit in shelter near the wheel, idly watching the autopilot at work, or alternatively to slide the shelter forward to stand at the wheel for better visibility, or to fold the shelter right out of the way in nice weather. My present boat, which I built in 1978, has a pivoting lead ballasted centreboard and over the years I have got into a bad habit of using the centreboard as a depth finder.
I have sketched a small gas powered fridge in the galley, but if necessary this could easily be changed to electric before the design is completed. If I actually build this design I would be thinking of normally sailing it with just two persons on board, so the accomodation has one double berth in the starboard hull and this could be supplemented by using the 'L' shape settee in the port hull as an occasional single berth.
Appears as though you are giving a lot of thought to various design aspects of your proposed catamaran.
I was seriously considering becoming a representative for Solidary Catamarans here in the USA. I was impressed with this sandwich material utilized on this kit boat to give it serious considerations for use in the deck and superstructures of a couple of monohull motorsailers I am working on.
Location: UK Re Gas Fridge I guess you have to be careful about using any gas fired equipment in a confined space. I have the instructions for installing the RM123E gas fridge and it is clear from this that there is a system to cut off the gas supply should a thermocouple detect that the flame has gone out.
Originally Posted by John Perry I carried on doodling my proposed 10m LOA catamaran design at odd moments over the last few months. Make sure your mainsheet traveller is wide enough that crew's hands are not over the track when they grab it. Location: auckland nz Very neat, good looker and well thought out design, John Perry. Originally Posted by Gary Baigent Very neat, good looker and well thought out design, John Perry. John - that's a seriously good looking - well thought-out - nice piece of flotsam, for sure.
I suppose the basic difference between a gas fridge and a gas cooker from the point of view of safety on a boat is that the gas supply to a cooker can be shut off when you are not actually cooking, whereas a fridge really has to be left running, even if there is nobody on board. Rob, it had not really occured to me that people might instinctively grab that beam containing the mainsheet traveller to use as a hand hold, but it is a point to consider.
Originally Posted by rob denney We are currently building 6 unstayed masts for biplane catamarans. Is that a delicate operation done only on flat water, or could it be done "anytime"? Location: fl Not your GRAND PA'S Pontoon Boat Hi we are Catamaran Coaches Inc. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. I have been overhauling an old Mako getting it seaworthy and the project is at the rewiring stage.
I had several engines over the past 2 years that could have been in the boat including two old 453 Detroit Diesels and in the end I divided on a 7.3 idi International. I know many other engine could have been a better match and my top speed wont be 70 knots but its what my budget and resources allowed.
You may or my not want to look up the ABYC standardized wire color scheme, tracking down all the various colors and stripes might cause you to compromise on wire quality. Location: Seattle, Washington, USA You should be able to match the ABYC color standards with good quality wire - Ancor and others make marine wire in all colors and sizes - please use the guidelines - you will be much happier next month when you make a change or need to do some troubleshooting or if someone else helps.
Also - please mark the ends of the wire with numbers (and have the numbers on the wiring diagram) - not many recreational boats seem to have the numbering and diagram but you will save a lot of trouble and hassle if you ever need to do any work on the wiring or troubleshooting. Originally Posted by mydauphin Did the 7.3 engine came from a pickup or a industrial engine.? I have tried looking for information on marinized versions of this engine and there was a company called Star Power that did them for a short time period.
Location: Miami Classic Mako Rewiring Diagram Critique Can anyone critique the wiring diagram and give your two cents. I am a web designer by trade and am willing to trade services or pay thru paypal, for someone knowledgeable to help solidify my concept.
Originally Posted by luisinmoreno Can anyone critique the wiring diagram and give your two cents. Location: Florida You also don't mention what type of use you are going to be giving boat. Location: Seattle, Washington, USA If the macerator pump discharges overboard then it needs to be able to be locked out to meet Coast Guard and many state standards for no sewage discharge. Many people do both crimp and a bit of solder then add shrink wrap to keep the area at the end of the solder from flexing and to make sure there is a solid electrical connection - they also support the wires so the flexing of the joint is minimized. You want to buy a high quality crimper that is designed for the connectors you are using - also give the connection a good pull (there are standards for the minimum pull) to make sure the connector is firmly attached.
If the connections are not done properly you will get a connection or crimp that will deteriorate over time and you will get a high resistance area that can get hot and then the equipment might not work and in the worst case things can get hot enough to start a fire - not good at all - I have seen several fires and almost fires from connections that deteriorated over time. As a regular check thing - check the screws once in a while on the terminal strips etc to make sure they have not backed off. In my opinion it is a mistake to omit a fuse on a circuit that is bound to fail sooner or later, unless the bilge pump is replaced each season (nobody does that I guess).
In my own boat I use a contactless float and a small electronic circuit in a sealed housing attached to the transom.
Location: Florida I was assuming from diagram that those things that look like switches were breakers. Location: clearwater, fl the boat I want to build (a sailing dinghy design) Here is the starting thoughts on a sailing dinghy I would like to design and build. Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada Lots of folk want to design their own boat, for some reason, more than want to design their own car or house. Location: clearwater, fl The fact is I really don,t want to design the boat. I suppose that if I get enough opposition to the project that I will pretend to give up and continue my mad experiment in the lonely seclusion of the shop with only my insanity to keep me company.
Location: maine They actually have house design software that figures all your framing if you simply draw the plan.
It's fun to design your own boat but it's closer to designing an airplane than a house or a car. Location: Lakeland Fl USA Phil Bolger wrote some remarks with philosophical wisdom.
If you must design your own, then there are many of us who will offer some input, including the math if needed. I draw my boats in carene then transfer to freeship ,adjust he bow and then develop the plates and print out the dimentions for transfer to ply. Location: clearwater, fl I would like a balance of performance and simplicity.
The sketch implies a sealed hull but I was thinking of some removable hatches that would stay open when stored. Location: Cocoa Beach, Florida I think ,with guidance, you may be able to pull this off.
Location: Oriental, NC Your boat looks a lot like John Welsford's latest, the AWOL. Drawing a boat that has the look you like is only a small part of the design process and is not the most important part. Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada If you want to go ahead with FreeShip or DelftShip feel free to post questions and problems and we?ll do our best to guide you through the first steps. DelftShip does not as far as I know provide the plank developments needed for stitch and glue work.

There are many good designs out there: if what you want can?t be got by slightly modifying a similar design, chances are there?s a good reason why you should not proceed with it, but your design does not seem outside the range of existing boat concepts.
I suggest you consider investing a few dozen hours searching the net rather than the many hundreds needed to learn the art and science of boat design, use of several design applications (they each offer different advantages) and then go through the complex and reiterative process of producing the detailed set of engineering and build drawings needed to proceed with procurement, planning and construction. Messabout gives some of the reasons why the design is a much longer process than you might expect; there are lots more. Doug mentioned Paul Ricelli: I second that based on my own pleasant experience of building one of his designs, which I shamelessly customized with his support. Tom has a point: any reputable designer will tell you how many of each of his designs have actually been built. As well as detailed drawings meant for actual construction, many sources provide much cheaper ?study plans? that show an overview of lines and accommodations so you can compare several designs when you are zeroing in on your final decision. Location: clearwater, fl Well I want to stay focused on just the shape and dimensions right now. Inspired by another thread here, I was wondering what we can (or already have) design for a quality home-built boat trailer? I've never read the Glen-L book on building wood-frame trailers, and am not too sure how the DMV would like that, but am willing to consider all or partial wood frame elements. Not willing to consider torsion axles, or suspension systems rated for 1000+lbs, both of which seem to be the only lightweight ones readily available from Northern Tool and other major retailers. I understand that commercial trailers exist with all or most of these elements, but prices are usually well over $1200 for the Trailex aluminum models with spare tire, winch stand and winch. If the main spar were made of wood, hollow, thru bolted and glued and with a solid telescoping inner spar it would facilitate launching at shallow launches. It wouldn't be remotely strong enough to handle the weight and forces of trailering unless it was massively thick! As for something like the Yakima trailer, that would be great if we could source the parts separately. My Aeroflow trailer has torsion suspension, and is scary to tow empty as it will do repeated 3' vertical hops on bad freeway sections. Remember, once you get the trailer license and title you can modify or upgrade it virtually anyway you want with no hassle from the authorities.
Save them to your computer if you want copies, as things tend to come and go when I need space on the website. We see a couple of those gorgeous light aluminum trailers with motorcycle wheels every year at the big canoe shows, but a couple grand for a little trailer is far more than I'd ever spend on one. I've converted two of these for small boat trailers, using a long steel tube for an extended tongue and wooden homemade bunks.
He mentioned a swinging or removable tongue, which some prefer because it shortens the whole package, making it easier to store. I used a Harbor Freight trailer for several years, but even though I always rinsed it after each launch into salt water, it eventually rusted into uselessness. It offers you a professional, fully comprehensive superior efficiency CAD Software Package that provides increased freedom in modeling knuckle lines, makes it possible for surfaces that will contain holes and lets you develop even the most complex shapes that will be developed with just 1 surface.
You even receive the software at a decrease value because it expenses us much less to create. Doug Lord probably suggested you use the flat bottom to have a place for lifting foils that protrude thru the bottom like a daggerboard.
Progress on this will have to stop for a while since we plan to go cruising in our present (monohull) boat for much of the rest of this summer. I like the idea of foam core and resin infusion with glass or carbon fibre, but I am pretty sure that would be more work to build despite the claims made.
The two main cross beams fit into 'trunkings' in the hulls and are fixed with an arrangement of wedges. I could make it a ridgid shelter but then sooner or later someone would try to walk on it, so it would have to be quite strong and heavy. I suspect that I may not be able to instantly drop that habit, so I have designed this catamaran with pivoting centreboards and dinghy style pivoting rudder blades, although of course no ballast is needed in the centreboards. The general arangement of this boat makes it difficult to include tiller steering and the proposed wheel steering system is really quite simple and should have little friction. This would house an integral mainsheet track, I am thinking of a home made traveller with rollers that run under rails made from lengths of aluminium rod. I would think that refrigeration could be the main electrical load on this vessel, so gas refrigeration might significantly reduce the requirement for battery charging and allow lighter batteries to be fitted. The spaces forward of the main bulkheads would probably be left empty, or used for storage of a few light items, but if more berths become wanted there is a possibility to use one or both of these spaces as a single berth cabin, the tops of the forward bouyancy tanks are more than long enough for berths.
I've not had time to read thru them in any detail at all, but the little bit I did I took notice of was some of your construction desires. One day at dockside they left a pan of potatoes bubbling on the gas cooker while they popped ashore to buy some item. Realistically, we dont often get summer temperatures that high in the UK, but it is the temperature inside the boat that counts, and this could well be a bit warmer than outside, so that ambient temperature could be exceeded in tropical areas. I can only assume that Jim and Joannes fridge was one that did not have this feature, or that it was faulty. There is so much reading matter around these days that some of us get into a habit of skimming over it rather than looking properly. As drawn, that beam is indeed of a width that you probably would not tend to place your hand across the top of it and you certainly could not get your hand around it, so it's better that way than the mainsheet tracks on some boats. There were some types of commercial sailing boats in the UK and possibly elsewhere that had such a feature, for example Norfolk wherries, but I guess you have something more modern and lighter. I am not really a boat designer but I have done a variety of engineering design work over the years, e.g. It looks like you have everything pretty well in hand and in the Miami area there are certainly plenty of good craftsmen to call on. I designed it based on research from books recommended through out this forum (mainly the Powerboater's Guide to Electrical Systems by Ed Sherman). This is a very high current circuit that cannot be fed from the ignition switch; there should be a power relay and a temp controlled timer between the push button and the plugs, with a direct feed from the starter battery. The panel wiring should include a few sockets for additional devices like a depth sounder or GPS.
The circuit keeps the pump running for an additional 10 seconds after the float wants to shut it off.
I now need to learn how to get this sketch into a hull design program of some sort and start hammering out the math, that's where I hope to find some help from the members.
I will start with the customary cautionary note that for an amateur a lot more $$ and effort goes into the build than the design, and success is more likely using a design from a professional. I think the stitch and glue method would suit you well given your recent successful bird''s mouth mast build including glass and epoxy. Carene generates the bottom shape and then you add the planks: less choice here, just height and flare angle at 3 locations.
Among them, here loosly quoted : People want their boat to look like they want their boat to look more than they want a boat that works well. But just in case you want to consider other options here is a 14 footer(RYD 14.6) by Paul Ricelli.
If you?re looking for a balance between ease of build and performance you are clearly not trying to slide down the razor blade of extreme design (ugh) so what you want has almost certainly been done several times already. Note that this is not necessarily the same as the hull number, since not all sets of drawings sold result in an actual build. You live in Clearwater, there ae plenty of boats in you home town to look at and discuss with the owners. This is said to be worlds largest gathering of small boats and almost none are power boats.
Then you have to take into account that the sketch represents a larger boat than the original as it is scaled up to 16 foot LOA The forec 5 is 13'10”. To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions.
It's a superb trailer and nothing using leaf springs will ever even be remotely close when it comes to a smooth, quiet ride.
Mine is very hefty, but a guy who built a Slider sister ship found a johnboat trailer that was narrow enough that the hulls sit outside the wheels, so that he can use a much shallower ramp than I can.
My choice of wood and epoxy is primarily for easy building, although it is also true that the materials are cheaper, even allowing for getting all the plywood CNC cut, which would be nice. Certainly I could use bolts, but I quite like the wedge scheme since it avoids some of the problems that can occur when loads are transfered between a low modulus material such as wood and a small load bearing section of a higher strength and higher modulus metalic material. There is a pivoted part in each centreboard case to closes the centreboard slot flush with the hull skin when the centreboard is fully lowered, giving little more water resistance than with a typical dagger board arrangement. I realise that the steering will be heavy if one ever needs to steer with the rudder blades part up, perhaps steering with the throttles of the two engines would be a better option for manouvering in really shallow water.
I just dont know how practical a gas fridge would be on a boat, although I think that there is one type of American catamaran that has them fitted. I have shown the engines fitted aft of the aft cross beam which allows a good spacing between the props for manouvering using the engine throttles.

I would suggest you have a look thru this kit-boat construction technique utilizing poly-core panels that are computer cut. That has fallen through at the moment as the client selected a Schioning design to have built in South America. One day the locker blew up - I assume the gas leaked, but I don't know what the source of ignition was, might have been a cigarette.
In fairness, the effectiveness of an electric fridge will also decline as ambient temperature increases, perhaps to the same extent as for a gas fridge. So, on this occasion the gas fridge was not the initial cause of the fire, but it does seem that the fridge was installed close to the bilge where it could not have been ventilated in accordance with the instructions that I have seen for this kind of fridge. Best part about this is that its a father, son project and I will get to enjoy this boat with my dad.
Not sure how you are charging house batteries, and with 4 batteries your going to need more than one alternator.
I wanted to have sufficient power to keep all loads on through a night of fishing and have enough juice to crank a cold diesel. That has two advantages: the pump spends its days in much less water and it doesn't run as often as pumps with only a float. I wont lie, I am not an engineer and I would really appreciate some help on the math necessary to make this vessel a success.
The force 5 was the first boat I ever sailed and after many years of sailing catamarans I have learned the value of minimalist sailing. You can also expect to get detailed construction, possibly full-up instructions and, if the designer is alive, valuable support. I am more familiar with FreeShip which will provide plank developments whereas the free version of DeftShip does not. This is all very well but it will be heavier than you want it to be on account of all that detail stuff. Some weekend soon, bop on down to Sarasota Sailing Squadron and hang around their boatyard and clubhouse for a while. He is in the phone directory.) A bunch of amateur builders hang out there and they always have two or three boats in progress. It would be nice to have a very lightweight trailer for a very lightweight (say 350 pound) boat, but stock hardware tends to be heavy. It probably does not look a whole lot different to the pics I posted here before, but there is now more internal detail - the previous drawings were just a shell with the main structural bulkheads inside.
I am not sure if it is worth also considering some kind of dingy type centerboard flaps for when the boards are only partly down. Both rudders can be fully raised and turned 90 degs inwards to lie flat against the transoms for harbour stowage. I have the installation manual for a Dometic gas fridge and this indicates that it is OK to run it with the normal motion of a vehicle on the road, but what about a catamaran, does anyone have any thoughts, or ideally experience?. I have also considered locating the engines further forward within the bridge deck structure, which has some advantages, but it would mean that the distance between the props would need to be reduced to something like 2.5m.
Also, as drawn, there is no second escape route from these spaces, which might be considered unacceptable. When the gas level rose above the floor and reached the fridge pilot light------------------------------ Thats how they lost the boat. One problem is that a typical 'fail safe' shut off valve consumes about 1.0 amps at 12V, not an insignificant continous current drain on a small sailing yacht. One thing I did, as a hobby, was possibly the first sailing hydrofoil to 'fly' on two hydrofoils one ahead of the other. Both are based on control points that you move around to control the hull shape, which behaves something like an elastic membrane being pulled into shape. Built with ply, it will be much more subject to deterioration because of all that non ventilated air space.
He is an extremely knowledgeble guy and would probably work with you on the 14 footer design or any of his designs.
Maybe what we're really searching for is very economical, lightweight but durable rolling parts.
The only problem I see is that the foil will be so small you will need to be at 20+ knots to fly, so you need another Nacra rig!!
The centreboard cases are set inboard of the hull centrelines and there are also beaching 'skegs' that I have drawn on the hull centrelines.
Transom hung pivoting rudders are said to be prone to ventilation of the rudder blades, although I dont think that has been much of a problem with my present boat. Since this is a catmaran it is possible to install the fridge in an enclosure which ventilates straight downwards to the open air, I imagine that should mitigate some of the safety issues, sorry if am sounding like an engineer at work! It might just be possible to provide such an escape route, but for the likely use of the boat, this doesent seem worth the trouble at this stage. There are 'low power' valves that consume only about a third of that current, but that is still quite a lot.
I have four circuits (three fused) hooked to the batts that don't go through the A B Switch.
Now while I may not be an engineer I am a good builder of many things including a very successful 16' stitch and glue power dory. There is a learning process to this and tutorials are also available to help you learn; the effort IMHO is worth it. I completely agree that I am not qualified to design something that would compare to a professional but none of those plans really inspire me. For the most part we have crap wind but a great environment to sail, lots of beautiful little keys and fantastic beaches to explore.
The Yakima Rack and Roll weighs 150 pounds and only carries 250 pounds and is ridiculously high in price.. I wonder if these should be a bit outboard of the centrelines to keep them further from the centreboards? To help avoid such ventilation, the lower rudder mounts are designed so that they form a 'fence' just below the nominal water plane and extending round the foreward part of the fully lowered rudder blades. There is also a system from Seath Haztec that only takes significant current if it actually senses gas and shuts the valve. I made two prototypes and by chance they were quite similar to a Moth dinghy in size and the rig, but rather crude construction. Stereo memory, security, shower sump pump ( because I hate forgetting to turn it on ), and bilge #1. The ease of that project makes me lean towards the plywood construction but my initial sketch dose not favor it. I also want the boat to be simple, good control over the mainsail but nothing else, no stays, halyards, jib, spinnaker. The Gougeon Brothers usually show up there with whatever far out design they have done over the past year. Back when I used to sell them, the capacity on most of the Holsclaws in that size range was 500-600 lbs. The wedge under the transom might even recover a minute amount of energy from the sternwave - well who knows! They describe it as fail safe, but I would want further infomation about that since it is not so obviously fail safe as a valve that is closed by a spring and held open by an energised solenoid. I used a surface piercing Vee foil at the front and a tee shaped foil aft, not the clever 'wand' arrangement that the Moth people developed.
Water will enter the motor chamber, rust will fill up the gap between rotor and magnets and a potentially dangerous short circuit is borne. In any case 'Fail safe' often means no more than that a system will operate safely in the event of an external electric power failure, possibly ignoring other possible reasons for failure such as moving parts corroded solid.
That's not really my interest in sailing though, I like to go somewhere in a sailing boat, hence the idea of a cruising catamaran.
The initial simplified analysis indicated high stresses around the access openings into the hulls and also to some extent around the big windows. The Manatee Maritime Museum, at Cortez, has a boat shop where there are some very seasoned old pro boat builders. The wood work in these areas is now strengthened but another round of analysis would be needed to see if it is strengthened enough. Sheathing below the knuckle would be inside and out and would be a bit thicker, with the glass fibers accross the grain of the strip planks. I might now look at a few more load cases, perhaps including situations like a heavy crew person jumping down onto the deck from a quayside - that kind of event can cause higher local stresses than sailing situations! Towards the end of the design process I would need to work out how to cut some hundreds of odd shaped pieces of plywood from standard sized sheets. The method I had in mind was to print out the silhouettes of all the pieces to scale on stiff paper, cut them out with scissors then jiggle them around on cardboard rectangles representing the blank sheets of ply, then finally re-draw them with 2D CAD to obtain those vital DXF files - it sounds like quite a job, does anyone know a better way?

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Comments to ┬źDesign your boat wrap┬╗

  1. Brad_Pitt writes:
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  2. 123321 writes:
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