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Any recommendations to sites with plans or words of advice from anyone who has down this road will be appreciated. And if you phone him and ask how many gramps you need to build he'll know what your talking about because he's an Englishman too. Several people are building Iain?s designs in classic rivited fashion, a good book for that is John Leather's 'Clinker Boatbuilding', Iain?s own book is a must for glued construction.
For Wiley Baggins - yes Ragna R was commissioned by her first owner for competing in the ORC regattas of the late 1930s. Location: Michigan Skin-on-frame scow After building a skin-on-framke kayak, I'd like to try building my next boat skin-on-frame. I'm wondering what extra measures I need to take to keep the bottom from buckling in since it will have a fairly flat hull section.
I realize there are plenty of plans for pointy skin-on-frame rowboats around this size, but I'd prefer something a little more square so I can pack more people into for partying, and I'm in the mood to experiment.
Location: Arlington, WA-USA I have built a number of skin on frame hulls, from kayaks to small sailboats. You can go with the flat bow and stern using plywood as you suggest, but I would make a round bilge dingy or row boat. Location: Michigan That's almost exactly what I was thinking, thanks for the photos!
I'm thinking I'll probably use some kind of shoal keel or bilge keels as opposed to the daggerboard chest, but other than that it'll probably be just about the same construction. Also I read somewhere that for aluminum johnboats, most of the buckle resistance while planing comes from the stringers (not the framing). Location: Olympia,WA Luke, I would suggest you get the book UMIAK by Skip Snaith. Location: Olympia,WA petros, do you have any pic's of that sail boat in it's finnished stage. It might even be better to lash the hard frames on after the fact anyways, since I can strap the floorboards directly to the ribs, then put the hard frames on top of the floorboards. I did mortise the ribs into the gunwale like you do on a kayak, using wood dowles to hole them in place. Yes, that is exactly what I did, the skin was wrapped over the deck and stapled to the inside edges of where the coaming would go.
I first build the heavier frames and than clamped on the stringers, and than used a plastic strip to determine rib length for each location. I used the built-up frames to give me a better control over the shape since I wanted an open cockpit without thwarts. Since I had a fairly large sail and a spinnaker for it I was worried about the stiffness of the hull, especially around where the dagger board and mast step were located, so these frames are a bit heavier, and use a full width deck beam.
Mortising takes a long of time and means you have to have the rib lengths EXACTLY right or they won't work.
In SOF, the floor will help stiffen the boat-which is easy to overlook for people that haven't built this way. Location: Olympia,WA there is alot of info and some great sof builders over there.
Wind Driven Houseboat » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Skin on frame dory - why not?
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: * 15 foot sports recreational dinghy I am learning naval architecture and as an exercise, I am trying to design a recreational two adults sailing dinghy for lakes, beach and protected waters. There are very, very, very good reasons that the combined skills, experience, deep thought and knowledge of generations of dinghy designers have lead them to create the typical shape of modern dinghies. You could perhaps go to Ebay and find an old copy of Ian Proctor's book on racing dinghy design.
A lot of the best information can only be obtained by watching boats on the water, talking to sailors about the way various shapes behave, and going into museums and spending hours reading about the way that designs have developed over the decades. Again, it is about boats that are very different from yours, but the same concepts of dynamics, dimensions and trade-offs apply. Location: Lakeland Fl USA KV the other respondents have given you sage advice.
I wonder what is wrong with it specifiaclly, not why it is dramatically different in just about every way. Location: UK The trouble is that because its so different in every way from the mainstream its hard to pick up on individual points. You mention low freeboard on Lasers and things, but low freeboard brings with it virtues too - reduced structure weight for one. For instance you seem to have put effort into the lines when sailing heeled, but every dinghy is sailed bolt upright if possible these days, so maybe that's an over consideration.
Another concern of mind would be dynamic behaviour of the hull and how it rolls when under way. I'd also have no more than 75% forestay height, because that way the rig yields and loses power when hit by a gust: with the masthead rig the mast will bend the wrong way and tend to power up the sail, which causes the boat to be very hard work in anything but the steadiest of wind. While these are different types to yours, it's an example of the reasons why some NAs say that dinghy design is much more complex than big boat design. Your entry waterlines appear to be extremely wide, and get even wider higher above the water. Your bow becomes much fuller above the waterline, whereas one of the big trends over a long term has been to reduce fullness above the waterline, partly because of changes in rig weight and self bailing. You mentioned the Laser - Kirby's design for it was strongly influenced by the fact that it had to be a cartopper, therefore it has less freeboard and therefore it needs more flare above the waterline. I have Laser lines and they are much finer in the bow and fuller in the stern than your boat. I have been lucky enough to speak with the designer of the Laser and JY15 and both of them are generally in favour of U shaped sections with less flare, as well as more conventional rocker lines. In the interview with designers I linked to, you may note that even Bieker - arguably the world's #1 skiff designer and IMHO the world's #2 dinghy designer behind Morrison - says that when he started designing he learned a lot from looking at the plans of older Int 14s. Location: New Orleans One of the things that struck me (I am not a NA just a sailor), is the almost complete lack of form stability.
This is also going to result in a boat that will always sail at some significant degree of heel, which is usually considered undesirable in a dinghy.
Comparing this to a VX OD, which is one of the easiest boats I know to sail I think my be instructive. Originally Posted by kvsgkvng I am learning naval architecture and as an exercise, I am trying to design a recreational two adults sailing dinghy for lakes, beach and protected waters. I don't think a second look would be beneficial or show respect to folks like PAR until you actually understand why they've tried to steer you towards better solutions. Everything you've posted clearly indicates a keelboat mentality (hullform, fixed backstays, genoas etc.) that are not present in modern dinghy designs - even cruising designs. I wish you well in your desire to understand design tools, but real understanding comes from understanding the design requirements and compromises.
Originally Posted by SukiSolo BTW if you use even a 5mm 5 ply floor you will still need floor battens to stop it moving somewhere between 5 to 15mm vertically.
A couple of years ago I had the chance to try out a sliding rigger rowing boat and even though I only rowed it for a couple of hundred yards I liked it. The picture below shows me trying out the sliding rigger boat - it was built as a prototype by a boat builder who was thinking of making the design a production boat but I dont think that worked out and a friend of mine acquired his prototype. In 2012 Josephine and myself rowed our heavy sailing dinghy the length of the river Thames in the UK. Re your latest proposals for stiffening the floor of your boat I think it is looking a lot better now, but I would not like to promise you that it will be OK, I suspect it may still be a bit marginal. Originally Posted by John Perry Re your latest proposals for stiffening the floor of your boat I think it is looking a lot better now, but I would not like to promise you that it will be OK, I suspect it may still be a bit marginal. Originally Posted by SukiSolo The early Mirrors are actually about 5.5mm floor and had a single floor batten. A simple timber strips, 1x1 on tank side and 1x1.5 on sheer line (a bit thicker because of high bevel angle, to give more meat for screws to dig in). Originally Posted by SukiSolo I'd probably put one there and another further aft where you will sit out when one up. The reason for this is because the mast partner is attached to the bow bulkhead, and the bow deck is separate from the tank tops. I would then do away with the cambered bow deck in favor of a flat one, which could follow the sweep of the sheer.
If you decide to do it that way, I suggest you move the water tight tank end bulkheads an additional 15 cm back. As your boat is presently drawn, you are going to need at least two additional bulkheads inside each tank in order to hold their sides in the correct position.
Originally Posted by sharpii2 If it were my boat, I'd make end bulkheads for each tank and then place them back at least 15 cm from their front ends.
It almost seems to me like you're suggesting me to prepare the boat for some disaster in which the parts around the mast would suffer such a catastrophic failure that would violate the integrity of side tanks and sink the boat. My reasoning for this common joint is that the strength added by it would help preventing breakage in the first place. Please tell me if I'm wrong, I'm just trying to understand the reasoning behind your suggestions. Originally Posted by sharpii2 I would then do away with the cambered bow deck in favor of a flat one, which could follow the sweep of the sheer. Another reason why I had to make cambered deck is because I need mast partner considerably higher than sheer line.
As for joining side tanks with bow deck, I am right now attempting to curve the side tanks up a bit so they can be made flush with cambered deck.
Originally Posted by sharpii2 As your boat is presently drawn, you are going to need at least two additional bulkheads inside each tank in order to hold their sides in the correct position.
Location: Hampshire UK Something along those lines, referring to the small frames. You don't need to touch the middle plank with the support, but do need more depth directly under the deck. Regarding the bow decking, the ply can extend over the inner part of the (outer) gunwhale to increase glue area.
Originally Posted by SukiSolo Something along those lines, referring to the small frames.

Originally Posted by SukiSolo You don't need to touch the middle plank with the support, but do need more depth directly under the deck. Originally Posted by SukiSolo Regarding the bow decking, the ply can extend over the inner part of the (outer) gunwhale to increase glue area. Re the stiffeners on the transom I would have thought that it mainly to top edge of the transom that might need stiffening, so I am not sure that there is much advantage in having stiffeners elsewhere. Re the support of the daggerboard case, below is a possible arrangement which might be a bit lighter and less of an obstruction for your feet, just a suggestion. I think you do need some timber to reinforce the joint between the sides of the daggerboard case and the hull bottom. If you stop the keelson at the end of the daggerboard case without tying it in to timber along the sides of the daggerboard case I think you will likely get discontinuities in the curve of the plywood around the ends of the daggerboard case. Originally Posted by John Perry Re the stiffeners on the transom I would have thought that it mainly to top edge of the transom that might need stiffening, so I am not sure that there is much advantage in having stiffeners elsewhere. Originally Posted by John Perry Re the support of the daggerboard case, below is a possible arrangement which might be a bit lighter and less of an obstruction for your feet, just a suggestion. Location: Sydney Dinghy design Here are a few pictures of a little skiff that i designed for messing about on our local river, which is pretty protected. Design parameters were ease of construction (stitch and glue), cheap, pretty, and able under sail or oar power. Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa comments I like your design a lot. I've also added about a foot (since when did anyone designing a boat go back to the drawing board and not add any length?), so its now close to 10ft. Snow vs Brig » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post How to become a dinghy design?
Location: norway lots of bungies and their associated devices and some unrelated. The low stiction on the actuator sheave requires a stiff tension on the actuator loop's tightening bungy. Location: Southern England Either clean up the transom flap and hinge the flap nice and cleanly, or just get rid of it.
Personally, I think the systems on this boat will require very careful thought and probably redesign (or renewing at least). Location: AUSTRALIA Hi Sigurd, I have thought about doing this as well but figured that it would be very difficult for one person to control. I decided to not go ahead as I thought that it would be too slow as the sailing weight of the hull and crew would be quite large.
Location: Denmark I am thinking that it needs a hull, similar to a snowboard. Ideally, I would make a pivoting piedestal that I could move (when the kite is not up) to experiment with the ideal position.
Kite boats If you haven't already and want to read about some of the conclusions regarding kite boats from one of the pioneers google Peter Lynn of New Zealand. Kite boat systems offer the potential of 100% eliminating heeling force and give you plenty of lift to play around with. There is a large difference between this pull and the pull when the kite is parked for highest pointing. There is no need for a mechanical advantage on the sheets.The kite is easily steered with light tugs. Location: Southern England Performance and handling will also depend very much on where the kite is being flown on the boat.
Jeanneau 54ds » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Kite Foiler!? To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions. I run a classic 1930's yacht which currently is equipped with an inflatable tender and it is well past time that I got on with the task of constructing a tender more in keeping with the mother ship.
Her mast was carried away in her first season so it was not until the post WWII regattas that she got under way again. To get sheer you have to either steam them or laminate them and depending on how heavy the stringers are, you have to over do it a and let them straighten out from the stringers and later the floor.
You don't need as many ribs as long as you have decently thick floorboards to spread the weight.
Being given a few "pointers' isn't going to help you much, without a solid understanding of the physics involved. I'm not a designer but I have interviewed most of the top designers in the world and almost all of them say that what counts is sailing experience and the ability to learn from existing designs, which means respecting them and understanding what the designer was trying to achieve. Other excellent information is on the websites for development classes such as Merlin Rockets, National 12s, International 14s, International Canoes, and Cherubs, although since the information is not presented as a textbook it takes a lot of work to understand the lessons of time. Neither of them was specific about the particular elements of your design that may be questionable. The underbody sections are probably too rounded unless your boat is to be extremely heavy and will draw a lot of water. Practice doing your drawings the old fashioned way with a pencil and a sheet of drawing paper..
Your described aims are very vague too so its difficult to figure out where your targets are. Now speed is not necessarilly a virtue, nor slowness a vice, they are just design features, but it really depends what your aims are. As a boat rolls it will tend to change direction: the hull steers the boat one way and then the other.
Its only virtue, as far as I can understand, is that you get the maximum sailcloth up with the minimum size of spar. Modern dinghies use both the rudder and the centreboard for leeway resistance, so increased rudder size, as well as increasing control, also trades off in reduced centreboard size.
Bethwaite is very focussed on racing craft, but he put in more serious empirical numerical research into dinghy design and behaviour than any other three designers you care to mention.
Entry angles vary dramatically according to many factors including LOA, speed, purpose etc so perhaps the best thing is to measure a similar boat like a JY15 or the the PT15. For example, one NA ensures that his bow angle is around 14 degrees around half-way up the topsides, whereas his entry angle is 12 degrees (but this is in a 16 Foot Skiff, which has a fine entry). These are almost universal among modern boats apart from BEthwaite designs, but because they are so long and high-powered he places a higher emphasis on wave penetration. Your stern appear more like a Europe to me; that transom shape is nice but how it will work with the very full and flat mid section is another matter. Both of them draw boats with elliptical mid-sections and stern sections as they provide more lift and less wetted surface area.
That tends to be slow in a breeze and as Gguuest says, in combination with the round in the stern it creates handling problems. Every other designer I have spoken to emphasises the same thing about learning from earlier designs. Particularly on small boats having them this unstable at rest is going to make loading and launching difficult and uncomfortable since weight must always be kept low and centered. There are other types of marine adhesive which are extremely effective if your joints are tight, the tighter the better.
It's not easy to find anything marine grade here, so maybe it's safest to stick with epoxy. Also the dagger board just needs a good frame, I did not say thwart although a deeply curved laminated one would give very good strength. However, for me and Josephine I would like to be able to carry an optional passenger and also some lightweight camping equipment, hence the design shown in my earlier post which will also provide a choice of sliding rigger or sliding seat rowing modes.
The 'rudder' blade on that boat is just a small aluminium plate, I think it was about the size of the rudder blade shown in my drawing. We were in company with some other row boats and canoes and the advantage of having a second person to steer was very obvious - the row boats with single occupants were frequently hitting the bank or getting stuck in trees after failing to get round the tight bends in the narrow upper reaches of the river.
I'm trying to search for some boatbuilding (not canoe-building) videos with 4mm to get an idea of how flexible and strong this material is, but I can't find anything. As you can see from my drawings, the side decks are curved shapes that will be glued and screwed together from pre-cut plywood panels. Maybe I can cut those side panels a little longer, and then trim those ends with block plane little by little until they align and the bow bulkhead is aft enough to fit. With all the warnings about how hull should be reinforced if I am to use 4mm ply, I'm wondering why no one is expressing any concerns about transom. This in effect creates three separate (two tanks plus the bow) box beams that are joined at the very point of maximum torsion stress. These inner bulkheads need not extend to the bottom of the boat, nor do they have to be water tight. Hopefully I can do it within weight limit (I have started to shrink boat dimensions to stay under it, and it isn't a good thing).
Please forgive my suspicious questioning, but as someone said, I can't build boat by consensus. I think your positioning in line with the daggerboard case (bow side) is good and will help transverse stiffness a lot. The transom will need light outer framing to be able to take the loads ie rudder etc properly.
I thought having those big hatches is enough to ventilate the moisture, but if for any reason a larger amount of water accumulates there, it makes sense to have a drain.
Indeed, it is becoming so normal that you could probably find any number of similar boats on the second hand market for next to no money, but I can understand you wanting to make your own. The inside bottom corner of the daggerboard case will be subject to wear so you may want extra fibreglass tape here, but first cut away some of the wood around the corner since if you allow the fibreglass to build up on the corner I think it tends to stop small stones falling out, then the board jams (I have seen this problem). This version has about 30% - 40% less rocker, a wider bottom panel, and I've removed a tiny bit of flare. One steering and providing balance, and other controlling the kite lines through a sheet and pulley system to gain mechanical advantage. Another advantage of a small light monohull is the ability to paddle out away from the beach to launch the thing thus not incurring the wrath of beach sailors for taking up too much space; also reduces the danger to others from the sharp kite lines.
I have not yet seen what happens, other than hardware failure, at higher power levels, so I don't know how much canvas I can utilise in what wind. There was one winch for winding the lines in and out, and a differential gear device (which could be locked) to pull one line harder than the other.

Clinker hull, size from 7ft 6in up to 9ft would do the job and possibly with the option of a dagger board structure for occasional sailing use. Do you want a traditional look with epoxy glued plywood planking, or will you go for traditional clinker construction? Whilst admittedly not running away with the trophies, she was enthusiastically campaigned in North Sea and English Channel events in the late 40s and early 50s. Getting sheer in an open SOF boat is one of the hardest things about building SOF (it's not that hard tho) and the strangest.
For example, one could learn a huge amount from the Bieker PT 15, which is designed by one of the world's greatest small boat designers.
After you have done those things for a while, then you can streamline the process with the computer program.
That's a big issue with off the water handling if you are planning to pull the boat above the high tide mark and camp overnight. I would have a none overlapping jib on a small recreational boat because a big genoa will tip the crew in the water every chance it gets: its really a quite horrible sail on a small boat - maybe any boat. Without a lines plan I can't judge, but yours appear to be about 10 degrees wider than a modern boat which is similar in length. The point is that modern boats show that you should not have topsides that are much fuller than the waterline.
See his Int 14 designs in the Int 14 class history, which is also extremely useful as it provides an excellent history in dinghy design.
Perhaps you could take some measurements of a Tasar, JY15, Wayfarer, Vanguard 15 etc and study them?
I referred to the difference between waterline entry angle and the entry angle higher up the topsides and gave as an example a designer who has two degrees difference between these two areas. Do not use a product called Cascamite which is made from the whey in milk and dissolves over some years or crumbles! It did not steer the boat, it just dropped down in a slot at the stern and was quite effective in helping to row in a straight line. For that kind of trip I think it helps a lot to have a second person to steer, and also so that you can change rowers every half hour or so. I am hoping that it will be big enough for straight line rowing on the sea but I guess that I might need to make an alternative larger rudder for rivers. I repaired one which had holed on a trailer because of this lack of second batten, so after doing the floor panel, I put an additional (matching original style) batten each side. It is important to work out the gunwhale layup and capping to help keep a light strong structure.
If you have the deck ply extend over it you can plane it back and then you have a choice of how to do the edge capping and create a nice flattish angled down gunwhale. I'll make sure that the ends of these panels coincident at transom, but the question is, will they coincident at bow bulkhead? It is also made from same 4mm ply, and has another 4mm ply shape sandwitched together to provide more strength and backing for rudder hinges.
I would even consider adding re-enforcement patch, which would extend at least 15 cm past this joint in each direction.
If you insist on keeping it, I suggest you eliminate the bow bulkhead and replace it with with a timber beam, which will sit on top of the side tank ends. I have to choose which advice to take, so I'm trying to understand the reasoning behind every piece of advice.
As I've extended bow deck over gunwales as you suggested, I thought - maybe I should extend side decks too? The flaring garboard panels along with the flare in the rest of the hull will provide a lot of reserve bouyancy. You can see from the developability picture that there shouldn't be any problem getting the plywood to meet any of the curves. It is definitely possible to build a very fast kiteboat and he has drawn the conclusion that a monohull-very lite- with a planing hull is the best solution.
The lateral running track could be used to move the towpoint to leeward if I get some proper blocks.
I have the draft of her history in the making and hope to buckle down ere long to completing that. But if I intend to have my sandwiches and thermos flask out and have my lunch under way and a capsize means I lose it all then a very fast boat with all the extra precision in handling and attention needed is a problem too: and its unwise to drink hot coffee whislt being launched off the top of a wave at 15 knots.
I think I see a lot of that in your boat with the round bilge and the way the stern is treated. For example, high performance yachts tend to have similar DLRs, whereas high performance dinghies range from as low as 32 (International Canoe) to as high as 120 (12 Foot Skiff). The Laser can handle its flared bow because it is very narrow, but to get it going well upwind in a chop demands a lot of hard work and technique, which shows the problems created by extra flare. As someone who is an amateur like you, I learned a lot from just getting ball park measurements in that way. Why not try making the stem more vertical and use that to stretch out the fullness forward, though it will still be awfully full. I said that the point I was making was that modern designs do not have much difference between the two angles. I'm not enamoured with PVA adhesives in a watery environment either, I often soften and release certain PVA glued parts with steam and a palette knife!.
Hence I have provided a rudder control knob to steer with, this can also be used to lock the rudder for sea rowing. Watch the edge of the deck to hull joint - I'd glue a very small triangular fillet piece along the inside of the hull to help with glue width and stopping the deck ply cracking. If the difference is only a few millimeters, then no problem, the small gap between the edge of shorter panel and bow bulkhead can be filled with thickened epoxy. So I must be sure that those deck panels will coincident without a gap that can't be filled with epoxy.
It would also simplify installing side tanks onto the hull - using those bulkheads, I could align and glue both side tank pieces before I mount and glue them to the hull. For a drain 'bung' just use a small doubler of ply (seal with epoxy) and put a O22mm or so hole in stopper with a wine bottle cork - one of teh lightest and cheapest effective solutions. Then I wouldn't need inner gunwales (inwales), because side decks can have decent gluing and screwing surface on gunwales. Mostly i rowed (used an antique pair of 8' oars very lovely, now on the wall of my workshop) but she handled very well with a 10hp out board but i never fitted her for sailing. Can't comment on a sail rig, but it should be possible if a daggerboard is added and the rig is kept small and low. He inspired me to design a very light weight single person kite foiler that has not been built but that I think would be extraordinarily fast-if a bit dangerous.
Overpowered, when the kite runs, the bow will lift and be dragged to leeward, and the boat will heel until there is little keel left in the water. I remember sailing a dinghy back in the 70s which had vaguely similar sten lines which became uncontrollable at speed because of this behaviour.
This creates major changes in design factors; an International 14 must have quite high volume so it has U-shaped sections, whereas an 18 can have low volume and moves so fast that wave impact is a major factor so it has a V shaped bow.
Spreaders are so long and chainplates so far aft you'll not be able to let the mainsail out. This is in sharp contrast to the International 14 which has a narrow waterline and little hull form stability. I quite clearly said the figures were from a 16 Foot Skiff, which (as I noted) has fine entry angles and I did NOT suggest that such fine angles would be suitable for this boat.
If you were to combine a ply (lightened with holes or scalloped) vertical at the point where the daggerboard is you will significantly increase the torsional rigidity. But these ends misalign by a lot, I'll have to trim longer panel, and then I'll have to move bow bulkhead too much aft - and it will be too small there to fit between hull panels. The bottom is wider and the look is similar just something to consider, although I'm sure I'm going to catch some flak from some around here for the design it's one that worked for me and after 6 years is still solid and hasn't killed me, capsized or misbehaved with use in the chop of Buzzards Bay.
One reason the inwhale helps is that it allows you to shape the gunwhale (outside face) to a comfortable angle to help you sit out without losing strength.
It seems logical to me that if parts extend to meet at common joint, the joint is stronger.
I'm assuming she's about 10-13 feet long I'ma gonna level with you here, I don't understand metric very well. I've seen pro built boats without this (inwhale), crack in 3 months from new, but where I have used this technique (with 5mm deck ply) it has stood up for years even with guys 110Kg+.
If these side tanks are terminated before they reach bow bulkhead, the torsional forces are no longer transferred directly, but through hull panels and gunwales.
I'll install bow bulkhead, add some timber strips, and then simply bend, glue and screw the bow deck piece. But from the pictures seems to be a not bad little boat, just a thought if you lessened the dead rise you would stiffen her up a bit, but it i don't know what you consider pretty protected.
I'm interested in every iteration of your design as you learn more and narrow down your requirements to something you're satisfied with. I think I should be able to access bow compartment enough through the bow bulkhead hole to give enough epoxy filet on the inside.
If it's anything like what i consider than you should be fine although for use under sail I would definitely say choose your rig wisely and rig her with a dagger board. The red areas are stress and if too big you won't be able to bend it without breaking the plywood or doing something like soaking or steaming it. I hope others will agree with your opinion that floor is stiff enough with current arrangement. If I were to make such a hull, I'd choose usual face-front canoe seating and a single double-ended oar.
They will be hard to make (you know, beveling the ends of them to fit angles of bottom and deck panels.
Will you want toretrieve it with trolley up a soft sand or shingle beach, or just on hard standing?

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