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I have been designing fiberglass boats since 1982, when a fibreglass professional boatbuilder commissioned the Caribbea 30, my first production boat design. Although my fibreglass boats were designed for production fibreglass boatbuilders, all can be built by amateur boatbuilders using normal one-off boatbuilding methods. Location: Thames Valley, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland Do some boats have a cabin but no sole or floors?
However I have now seen some respected designs for microcruising boats that have no sole or flooring. Second Sven Yrvind of Sweden's latest boat which he has just sailed from Ireland to Madiera. Location: Thames Valley, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland They don't walk on the inside of the bottom planking because there is no standing headroom, they can only sit.
Location: Thames Valley, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland Thanks for the useful comments. It would seem that the rocker combined with the bend in side panels stops the boat flexing around as much as a cuboid shaped hull and gives it more external strength.
But the 2" thick foam core sandwich construction will enable the hull to take more point loads from the inside (as well as increasing strength for external point loads and overall stiffness).
It's amazing how the Enigma 360 can take the loads on the inside, having only a 9mm plywood bottom with no added support. Location: NW Washington State USA That would be a problem only on a very light boat. Location: WNY Floors on traditionally built watercraft also tied the frames and keel together. Location: Iowa Most (not all but most) of the boats that don't have floors have other structure filleted in (bulkheads, bunks, lockers etc) that reduce the amount of open area (span) that carries the load. Originally Posted by DCockey Some of Phil Bolger's designs use the inside of the bottom as the sole. Location: Eustis, FL Lister, Bolger was one of the greats, with nearly 700 designs to his credit.
It's difficult to second guess the engineering approach a designer may have incorporated into a particular project. Lastly, the old builder that told you that walking on the planks was wrong, is correct, sometimes. Location: USA It seems that one is sitting in the bilge, so the least bit of H2O and your pants are wet and your sleeping bag. But if your boat is tiny, eliminating all but the absolutely necessary is kind of like an ultralight airplane in that you leave everything off but what you really need, and some boats don't need floor timbers or a sole, but most benefit from them. Building a small work barge with plywood » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Cabin Sole as a structural member? When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. 1 piece gets stuck on the hull and glassed in and 1 piece goes to the suprestructure and gets glassed in as well. Duruing manufacture the makers of the boat skimp on the transom by only putting a 37 inch wide piece of ply in a 60 inch space, so i will be putting in as big a piece as possible on both hull and the superstructure. Is there a valid reason why plywood is put in boat transoms from small boats to big boats ? Location: OREGON The hp rating is issued by the manufacturer and You can not change it. You could beef up the transom to carry 300 hp if you want but the rest of the boat may fall apart.
Location: Eustis, FL Actually, you can get modifications certified, if done properly, but back to the original poster's concerns.
Your idea of a full width transom is a good one and the most common way manufactures build them. The most important thing about a transom is it's stiffness and it's ability to transfer torque to the bottom of the boat. Location: united kingdom Here in the uk the orkney doy is rated for 50hp like i say, but i will not just be upgrading the transom i will also be upgrading the hull thicknessas as well and taking the fibreglass around the rear corners of the boat. I am not concerned with things like insurance rules as here in the uk we do not have to insure a boat or licence a boat on the sea. I just wanted to see if there is a way of making it a lot stronger by maybe making a solid transom , but if the plywood is better for this then i will stick to the plywood and just rebuild using that.
Now im not a boat buildrer and dont mean to sound crazy but there is a lot of boats out there rated at way over 150hp with 2 inch transoms. My hull is 13ft 3 inch long, it is 70 inch wide at the widest point and is mainly between 60 inch and 70 inch all the way along.
The inner hull is unlike the whaler as it has beams running across down in the hull as stringers. I just want to know that what i am going to do is going to be stronger than original, and safe. Unlike the whaler my boat has a floor that can be unscrewed from new leaving 4 huge cavity's under the floor, these have their own seperate foam pillows in each cavity. The boat uses aproximately 22 cu ft of closed cell foam from new, my boat will have over 30ft of closed cell foam when finnished as i plan on putting foam in every place possible. Location: Coastal Georgia Looking at the first photo, I'd like to know what the story is on that 15 foot tall guy standing behind the clothesline and why does the garage roof look tufted? Plywood is stiffer and cheaper then laminate, so if you have to bulk up the transom thickness, you're better with plywood. I think the shape of your deck cap has saved your transom, plus all the foam, leaving few places for moisture to collect. I have way over that already if including the hull and inner hull thickness at the transom. Every boat made with polyester is realy running around with loose stringers, bulkheads, transom, engine mounts and so on ???
I am going to be putting an extra layers of polyester on the bare transom hull on the inside, then i will be putting the wood, then that will have a complete layer of fibreglass matt all over it encasing it completely, no gaps its going to be completely encased.
Where the bolts go through the transom will be sealed inside the transom wood with epoxy resin.


Now if this dont stop 99.9% of water getting through to the wood then nothing at all will stop it. Wood that is completely encased will last a long time, this boat is not left in the water its a trailer boat.
The original wood was exposed in many places to allow any water in the hull to wet the wood and thus rot it out. The engine will be bolted on and using my large stainless steel plates to spread any engine loads across the transom rather than just small washers etc. Ok so maybe a bit over the top but they not only look good when shaped but realy do spread the load. They now just need to have a bit of shape put to them for making them a bit more pleasing on the eye. Your boat seems to be an exception (lucky you) and you do have the option to use enough resin and fabrics, plus good application techniques, so your chances of success are high. I purchased a 20ft half cab boat which the floor had been cut out, after i got home i see the floor was rotten especially at the front where it hadnt been removed yet. I have now discovered that all the stringers are rotten and 90% of them are completely gone. I decided while the floor was out i will remove the back part of the top of boat and im glad i did as the transom was like paper peices and completely rotted out. I think thats all for now and will keep adding photos and details as i go along which hopefully will be of help to someone else.
But in saying that we all do silly things from time to time its repairable and will be a totall repair and rebuild . All i need to do it clear out the old stringers thats almost gone anyway, put in new stringers, put in new transom, then new floor, put the coaming back on and bobs my auntie,. All and any bonding to old glass surfaces need to be a minimum of 100 mm so 150 gound surface will give plenty of good bonding . I have grinded all the stringers down, it appears there is a filling of dark colour fibreglass between the stringers and the gullys in the hull.
Wil it be safe to put on that or should i remove that and put some fresh packing in and what should i use if i do? I will put up some photos tomorrow when i clear the 2ft thick coating of fibredust from everything.
When i said packing i did mean like a filler between the the stringer wood and the actual hull.
Im not sure what the bits of wood are called, they are the bits that interlock with the stringers that the floor sits on. What would be the recommended gap between them as im just working out roughly how much wood i need and drawing a rough plan too on the computer. I was also thinking i would cut some holes the same size of conduit in the stringers and first seal them with resin then put in the tube and seal again this way the water has drainage means to the billage drain.. One more question is how high should i make the stringers, i was wanting to make some compartments in he floor so want to calculate the room, i was also thinking of making a custom tank to go under the floor in a sealed compartment with a lid on so i can access if needs be?
I have 2 x 1200x2400mm x 18mm marine ply for the stringers, what would the recommended floor thickness be? As for drainage I was going to cut the corners off where the bulkheads meet the outer side of the stringers with no tube, letting it into the bilge at the transom and another main bilge drainway along the keel for the area between the two stringers. Ok i have purchased the wood and its getting delivered tomorrow which i want to make the stringers and bulkheads over the weekend. Im also picking up a 20kg container of fibreglass resin as i would like to start glassing next week. I thought i would fill the hull with water to the floor level line to see if there was any holes, there was 1 i did and another where the previous person cut the floor out with a circular saw and didnt quite cut through but close enough for it to weep. Would filling the cut line with resin then a sheet of glass on top after the resin has set be enough?
When i filled the boat up with water i saw it had sat on the trailer properly again as when i removed all the rotten stringers it seemed to turn floppy and also the hull seemed not to sit on the trailer properly and pivot side to side.
What would be also the best way to join 2 stringers together, please select a number from attached image, personally i think number 1 as number 2 has the ability to slide and move whereas 1 is locked in. When i make the stringers as the wood will be square do i need to make the bottom in the contour of the gaps where the stringers go?
Resin has no guts and the slightest bit of movment it will break just like a glass bottle and you will have a leak .
The other thing that need checking is the bottom of the boat , find a long straight edge of timber or something and check how flat anf straight the bottom is !!!! 4 Stroke Fibreglass Boat (Suzuki inboard Engine)The latest 4 stroke Speed boat,a nice gift to you and your lover,enjoying your summer holiday,fishing,sightseeing,surfing,etc. Fibreglass space ship electric boatElectric boat can be used in the amusement park,artificial lake or other places.
From the smallest scratch to a serious accident, Dale Fibreglass have the experience and expertise to have your fibreglass boat looking as good as new again. We offer a comprehensive fibreglass repair and maintenance service catering to all private and commercial boat owners and marine companies. Dale Fibreglass was contracted to install new fibreglass fish storage holds onboard the Stella B (photographed below), a large commercial fishing boat. There are absolutely no shortcuts during any stage of Evolution Boats’ construction process - all fibreglass is hand–laid for ultimate hull strength — and, as a company owned by serious anglers, all boats incorporate functional fishing–related features that other manufacturers seem to overlook. The hull stringers, floor and bunks are assembled while the hull is still in the mould to ensure the hull keeps its shape. All Evolution boats are filled with marine quality, closed cell foam, which aids buoyancy, ride comfort and noise reduction. Decks are prepared in a separate mould and many fittings are attached prior to joining the deck to the hull. Since then I have designed a wide range of boats, from rowing shells to powerboats, trailer-sailers and world cruisers. I have a reputation for designing boats that are pretty and sail fast, with good manners and easy handling.
Possible explanations: they gain extra rigidity from the convex shape of the planking, and they all have some rocker Yes, some rocker will make any flat surface stiffer.


Unfortunately, he's mostly known for his eclectic nature and square, common man's designs, which is sad really, considering the volume and scope of his work.
If you have a relatively small, traditionally built lapstrake or carvel, you should try to keep you feet on the frames or stringers. I have several designs just like this and the additional loads this imposes was considered in the scantlings, during design development. I have a design that Eric is familiar with, that has the crew walking directly on the bottom planks. Bundling designers into a lump, because they don't meet his expectations, is a rather narrow minded, if absurd view and should be taken with a grain of old salt. If you made a solid 1" thick laminate, especially from mat and roving, it will weight three times as much.
Since your boat delaminated, which is why you managed to separate the hull from the liner, you should strongly consider placing all of the transom material on the hull shell, not the liner. Your boat is an exception to this rule, having survived so well, but trust me, I replace transom cores all the time and poly just doesn't stick or seal wood, so the wood gets wet, the poly releases and the wood rots. In fact, it's much more like in the high 80% range, depending on formulation (epoxy is in the high 90% range). Epoxying the mounting holes is a very good idea and one we call bonding the fastener holes. Polyester at best, will permit a 10% rise in moisture content, so if you start with stable and dry wood, say at 10% (pretty dry stuff) moisture content and it's coated with polyester, the poly will let another 10%+ into the wood and this means, the wood is now over the magic 17% number and you can expect rot and other issues.
Ive out that the stringers are 18mm and will be using marine ply, what would be the best to seal them with and also i was reading about making sure the wood doesnt touch the fibreglass.
The old stringers at the transom was sealed to it which made no sense to me as if water got in it wouldnt have anywhere to go, could i drill a hole big anout to put a tube in and seal around the hole with silicon? I want to put a underground fuel tank in the middle too, can someone give me some tips and ideas?
When fibreglassing the stringers how many layers do i need and what about the thickness of the layers as i can only find thickness in GSM. Mine is torn down and has been on hold for a while, gonna get back to it soon when it cools off a bit outside. Its a old boat so lets go over board a little and you wont ever have to worry about anything for long time to come .
As for the top of them, cured resin on both sides of floor plywood (after cutting to fit) then filler along the bulkheads and tabbed at the outer edges and along the stringers (if this is the wrong way somebody chime in so two of us don't do it wrong). Needs to be ground out gently and glassed properly maybe a small patch but the surface needs to be a 100mm or more all round the hole !! Committed to excellence, safety and quality, Evolution Boats enjoys the highest reputation for its unique design, unparalleled performance and matchless construction. Evolution uses different weight fibreglass mats and woven rovings to ensure a solid and consistent build, with the same process repeated for each boat. The gel coat is sprayed into the hull mould first (in this case, navy blue sides while the rest of the boat is white).
This foam is pumped into the rigid fibreglass stringers and into floor cavities under high pressure to ensure maximum bonding of the foam to the stringers and hull.
This boat is approximately half way through the fit–out process and is awaiting a glass windscreen and Polyethylene rotor molded fuel tank. My Shearwater 45 was judged "Traditional Voyager of the Year" and "Overall Winner" in the 2001 Cruising World Boat of the Year Awards. This comes from more than 50 years of experience sailing in good and bad weather in the very demanding wind and sea conditions of the notorious Cape of Good Hope.
The one exception is when torturing the ply and that is done during construction using very thin materials. These planks weren't intended to bear weight in this fashion and you could easily pop fasteners, if not actually crack a plank. The boat is a rock under foot, underway or at rest and this was my intention when I drew it up.
If you don't know this, take the length of your boat and multiply by the transom beam and post this number here. You can use other materials, like foam, honeycomb and man made wood substitutes, but once you cost these things out, you'll quickly see why plywood is still king. If you use the same piece of wood and coat it with epoxy, the moisture content will also rise, but only a few percent, so you'll still be below the magic number and the wood retains stiffness and doesn't rot. Solid wood is ok and even better with 5mm ply each side solid had a habit of splitting if you hit anything in the water . The following images show some of the stages in the construction of Evolution’s 550 and 650 series.
Floors are mostly to keep your feet dry or to provide a flat surface to stand on or (usually) both. An 18' powerboat cruiser with a cuddy, may just have enough internal volume, particularity if it's round or V bottomed, to warrant a sole.
On the other hand, this type of build would likely have some sort of sole, be this a simple grating or slates over the frames or a full blown sole. And yes, most production boats start to delaminate their wooden elements within 5 years of purchase.
This is why epoxy is preferred on wood, plus it's a lot stronger and bonds a lot better too. Plus the surfaces to be glassed over need to be scuffed and ground 99% clean so the new glass will have any kind of a chance of sticking properly and so it will stay and last and not fall off sometime later . It may be a slightly longer build time than other methods, but results in a superior quality laminate. With good care, careful design and sufficient resin application techniques, these wooden structures can last a long time, but this just isn't the case with production built boats.
They skimp on resin, use poor application techniques and the labor is usually quite poor, especially in out of sight locations (whee the newbie gets trained).



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