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Location: Lake of the Ozarks Building 10 foot fiberglass boat with a foam core I am building a 10 foot boat out of 2 inch thick pink foam insulation from home depot.
The grey back half of the first picture is paint because at that point I didn't know that epoxy doesn't melt foam, and I was trying to seal it up. The pink foam from the big box stores isn't a structural foam, so the laminate will have to do all the work. Yep, all epoxied surfaces that will have UV exposure will need to be protected, with paint (the best) or varnish. Originally Posted by alexbarker2 After I finish my first layer, would it be a bad idea to test it in the lake? Location: Milwaukee, WI 1708 has mat in it and is designed for polyester or vinylester.
Location: Lake of the Ozarks Progress update Thanks for all of the advice. Needs A New Transom And Deck » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post fiberglass layup on foam core 40' cat? When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. The objective is to build a one-off fast fishing boat using a MDF frame to give the foam core the shape of the hull, laminating outside first, turning the boat upside up, removing the whole MDF and laminating inside, so that the shell can then be stiffened and the boat completed. Next, I thought about using fiberglass bi-axial cloth with the usual fiberglass matt for ensured adhesion between layers. One step further on this line of thought would be to substitute some of the glass fibers in the bi-axial cloth by some aramid fibers. Location: AUSTRALIA Hi Paulo, I would be surprised to see any responders to your post say that they have used fibreglass-aramid hybrid cloth with polyester resin for boat construction. It seems strange that you might outlay considerable money for the reinforcement, then save money by using polyester resin which has many inferior properties to epoxy. The reason for my question is that in Brasil we have some difficulty to get some good boatbuilding epoxy resin and when we can it is imported with so much tax added. The method I use is to make a frame out of MDF sheets, cut with CNC and assembled, so that the hull is upside down.
Once the laminate is finished, we can very carefully turn the boat, remove all MDF and laminate the inside of the foam. I understand that with a change of modulus, one is going to load up before the other;which aint ideal, so how do you use them in conjunction with each other?
Location: Ontario E-glass has an elastic modulus of 72 GPa, S-glass is 87 GPa. From what I can gather, the best I should do is stick to what I am used to and have had quite a bit of success with thus far: bi-axial cloths of s-glass and polyester resin.


The aramid hybrid cloths (and any aramid or carbon cloth for that matter) really is a big investment and, by what I have seen here, should be used with epoxy resin only. I am always looking for improvements through technology adapted to my reality and cost efficiency. I thought the best way to answer your questions about the Foam over MDF frame one-off construction method would be to explain the entire process with the aid of the 4 images attached to this post. First we build a bed out of solid timber (the only part of the frame that is re-usable) and set it leveled.
Depending on the hull curvature, we can use entire sheets cut to shape to fit the hull, on the areas with less curvature, and strips cut out of the foam sheets, using a circular saw, on the areas with greater curvature. Once the epoxy, in the case of this example, has cured, we can just pull the nails out, plug the wholes and begin the finishing process with some sanding down. The surface finish is done as usual with some resin mixed with micro balloons, a lot of sanding and a fair dose of passions. I personally like this method because it is possible to play around with the weights of the whole boat and achieve a prototype with the same characteristics of a production boat. I hope this explanation has been clear and that you have been able to understand everything.
Location: AUSTRALIA Thanks Paulo, for your clear answers and photos showing the method with the MDF mold. Obviously with your training the mold is far better than I imagined from your initial post, and the receiving cradle is also a necessity.
In your case, as a sailboat man, goes exactly the same process, but then we can turn on the skill nob full on and turn the name of the game into "as light as possible"!
This process is an option for production boats, when the customer wishes to run some tests before proceeding with the building and marketing. This Indian file is an selection from the foam sandwich boat building instructions supplied These notes will describe abuse by step how to progress a boat in foam sandwich building a foam sailboat.
The black in the second picture is colored caulk that I used to smooth the surface once the boat was in position for fiberglassing. Of course, painting the foam then applying goo and fabric means, your bond to the foam is entirely dependent on the paint to foam bond, which compared to epoxy is really weak. I did get to test it out after finishing my second layer and I am pretty happy with the design.
I believe also that you are right that adhesion and wetting out for kevlar using polyester is suspect. If a simple MDF frame would suffice, then some professionals would already be doing it, as it it would be much cheaper than more conventional molds.
The surface of the foam is not really flat but a series of tiny hollow spaces with narrow ridges.


There are some air bubbles in the first layer because of small gaps between sheets of foam. What about using vinylester resin with biaxial or triaxial glass, to get a good result for cheaper than an epoxy laminate. I think it will not work, but I suggest you ask a professional boat builder before you go ahead. Is it just a series of bulkhead hull shapes representing cross sections at intervals from bow to stern? Epoxy is easily the best for adhesion, but filling the surface of the foam with a slurry of Q-cells in epoxy resin is worth while before laminating even if you are using epoxy in the laminating process. You do mention also that you can use the prototype to make a commercial mold, but would you always have orders for more than one?
I am going to fix the bigger ones, but I'll probably just leave the small ones alone, since it's just between the first layer and foam. I don't think that you need kevlar unless the hull is going to be contacting rocks or other hazards. Biax glass is a really good product for the price having used it recently, as well as in the past woven glass, dynel, kevlar, and carbon fibre woven and uni-axial. Made popular by big expensive impost race boats atomic number 49 sail and mightiness foam meat boatbuilding is directly becoming Thomas More and more rough-cut on boat output lines.
My reason for doing 5 layers was that I intend to put an old jet ski engine in it, so it will be going pretty fast, and will need to have similar strength to a jet ski hull. Using foam sandwich construction even with woven fibreglass only is already going to give a huge weight saving over an equivalent strength single skin glass boat, as found in most commercial hull constructions for fishing boats.
Doesn't the hull collapse outwards once it is turned and the MDF removed, before you have fitted the internal framing? If you really want to use kevlar hybrid cloth then only vinylester or epoxy is recommended.
The tensile strength of kevlar is much more valuable on the inside skin however to resist deformation inwards. As a foam cored laminate, the core will separate (delaminate) from the inner and outer skins, making it useless, except as built in floatation and moisture containment system. I'm not sure why you elected to employ 5 layers of 1708, but this is a whole lot more than necessary in a real foam cored build.



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