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More details in the article (not yet posted on the EPOXYWORKS website) and on Lindahl's website.
CatBuilder Previous Member   Pretty standard way to build a catamaran. Alternatively, you *really* have your heart set on locking the bead and coves together, you can order it pre-made from Gurit with a bead and cove on the edges of ready made planks. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Use the form below to delete this Wood Epoxy Strip Plank Construction Boat Design Forums image from our index. Use the form below to delete this Speed Stripa„? Planking For Wooden Boat Hull Construction Cold Molded image from our index. Use the form below to delete this Square Sawn Strips Or Bead And Cove See Diagram image from our index. Use the form below to delete this You Can Do Almost Anything With Strip Planking In Shapes And Its Not image from our index.
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Use the form below to delete this Indigenous Boats Solomon Islands Canoe Peabody Museum 6 image from our index. Location: Australia Bearing in mind that it was a couple of years ago, here are the standard retail prices I was quoted, by Highpoint Timbers in WA.
My bad math calculated this at $4265 per cubic metre, and according to those calcs you are right, your prices were about $2700 per m3. Further - In reality, the cost of the timber in a project of reasonable size is going to be a small proportion of the overall cost. Location: Tasmania,Australia yeah, well if you are building big boats, timber may be a small percentage allright, but for smaller boats, its still a big component.
Location: Australia The particular example to which I referred is 32 foot overall (pictured below). Strip planking is actually a very quick way of producing a complex one-off shape, and of course there are any number of decisions that go into the choice of building materials and methods, not just price.

Location: Tasmania,Australia yes, I agree for complex shapes, strip is good. I love timber as much (if not more than) the next man, but I cant think of a good commerical reason to build in timber at this point. I was referring to the cost of off-the-shelf foam or balsa panels with FRP skins, which are typically about $500 per sheet, depending on thickness, density, and skin thickness.
Of course, if you're using them where there's significant curvature, or if the shapes aren't deveolpable, then the norm would be to do as you suggest and simply glass over foam panels. It's important to consider the added weight that filling all the kerfs can add to the structure too. Mystic Star combines the beam, high volume and stability of the North Star with the shorter length of the Fire Star. A classic Laughing Loon, dark western red cedar deck & sides pattern with ash and flame maple accents. Above, left to right, deck shock cord hold downs with beads and arctic animal and mystic effigies - bear head, skeg control with jam cleat - Walnut hardwood cockpit coaming with ash and flame maple veneers and foam thigh pads - Carved closed cell foam seat, covered with black neoprene and NSI anatomic adjustable backrest - decal behind seat on bulkhead, Rene Magritte's The Healer - Stainless security loop to lock boat to anything - shock cord with cross bars, to hold paddle for self rescue - Day hatch with rare earth magnet closing system (magnets hidden under deck ring veneer mate with pairs visible on hatch cover) and quick release tether - another deck hold down with beads and effigies, which make lifting the shock cord to store things on deck, easy. Stern Deck - left to right, Day hatch with finger loop (needed because rare earth magnets are very strong ensuring a waterproof seal on hatch cover gaskets) - shock cord hold downs with beads and effigies - stern hatch cover - shock cord hold downs on the stern deck, on either sides of the stern hatch, secure a break down spare paddle - Stern paddle keeper allows the primary paddle to slide under the beads for securing to deck - Classic baidarka stern with toggle handle and abrasion strip on keel edges. Deck hardware effigies, like the ones pictured on the Mystic Star above, are traditional in native cultures and express respect for the lives and spirits of the creatures which sustain the life of the hunter, and his family and their group. I thought you might find the attached pictures of some interest seeing that there could not be too many of your boats in South Africa.
Having studied the plans I came to the conclusion that I would not have enough spare time to tackle the whole project without some help with the foam and glass work.
The building process has created a lot of interest amongst some experienced sailors looking for a better way to sail so who knows, you might just get a few more orders from this part of the world. If this were the case how are the planks held against the stations after removing the nails before lamination ???
Location: spain When I said planking in my previous mail I meant Strip planking sorry for my english but it is not my mother language so I do my best. Location: Brisbane She'll be right mate, as long as the job is done as per standard spec, the nails just rip out, no worries, the shape has already been set. Location: Eustis, FL Once the strips have been glued together along their edges, they'll lay reasonably fair on the station molds.
Location: spain I am surprised to see that some of you more experienced builders, say they the strips will stay keeping shape and contact like Landlubber while some others like Nero say it is a nervous moment.
Before you pull the hull from the forms, the fiberglass or other fiber skin has to be laminated to it. A well set out mould, batten faired and layed in either strip planking or foam planking is refaired anyhow after it is put together before sheathing. Once the foam planks are on the frame, they are sanded fair, whether they are made by yourself or some other source, it is irrelevant, they will still be sanded fair, so there goes the supposedly wonderful computer manufacturing precision down the drain.
I have made world ocean racers, they really are not symetrical at all, we certainly try to do so, but the reality is, they are not. Location: Eustis, FL Strip planking is an easy way to build round bilge hulls, but not particularly precise. Location: spain The boat I have in mind, is a center console of around 30 -32 feet with quite a flared bow which is the main area of my concern becuase there the curvature of the strips might make them try to spring back to a straight shape and maybe reducing the radius of the compound curvature and then deviating from the original design if it is only a couple of millimeters and the deviation is symetrical it will be OK but the fact of loosing contact with the forms when removing the nails for lamination definitely scares me. But maybe it is my own nature of overcautioness what is the problem and surely Par and Landlubber are right and I will be OK, thanks to the new technologies and to the generosity of you all we novices can keep in contact with very experienced people like you all living in the US, where I live, in the Canary Islands Spain, the fishing is good, but here there is not a single boatbuilder so I would be on my own If it were not because of the possibility of counting with your generous advise.
Location: The Netherlands To attach the foam core strips to the stations, one can use cheap hinges.
So far the best idea I heard was from Nero, with the strips nailed to the forms make some little holes connecting the strips with the forms and inject some resin, but still this may cause small hard ponits wihich might make the fairing of the foam a bit difficult.

Location: The Netherlands Screw the hinge in the foam, then pull on them in the inwards direction, and screw them tight to the station. However, I have plenty of customers that just nail the plank to the frame, then use some force to pull the station out later. Raced by one person, 20 foot LOA, 7.6 ft or so beam, minimum boat weight of 165 lbs which he has to ballast to meet (hulls are a small fraction of the weight).
We can also do a concave convex or a tongue and groove profile for an extra cost of $10.89 inc GST per m2. As far as strip planking construction goes, considering the labour intensitivity, it will become a thing of the past as well. I don't regard it as a particularly large boat, but I guess that's just a matter of opinion.
The time involved in building and fairing would depend very much on the project in question.
When I did the materials selection for Graphite, I considered a number of construction choices. This applies to the bow and stern for any of Rob's Star line of baidarkas such as the Mystic Star, Dark Star, Shooting Star, Fire Star, North Star or Twin Star. Personally, I would not waste my money in computer creation, it is basically a very simple process that you are undertaking, you only see it as a big problem, try just looking at it as one step at a time, and all will be unfolded. Of course you must try to preserve the desired shape, outersheathing does a good job, but always try to keep inside forms in place for as long as you can, it is just common sense anyhow. So much so, strip scantlings usual incorporate an element of thickness removal, to accommodate the fairing process.
I've found the best is a very thin brad, punched through a banding strap or small chunk of wood.
Screw them from the back into the foam (the foam is strong enough to hold the screw) and screw it into the station as well. Naturally where the edges of the forms are beveled the cubes should be moved a liitle bit away from the edges. Airex, Klegecell core material etc vary between $48 and $60 per m2 without FG, and they come in much bigger sections that dont need gluing together, dont absorb water as much as timber, and cant rot. They are used to working with foam and their attention to detail is great (surfers are quite fussy about the finishes on their boards).
Of course you'll use temporary fasteners (one of several methods) to convince the obnoxious ones to comply with your wises, but these get pulled before you lift the molds free.
Both of these require a substantial amount of fairing to get the sweet surface we all desire. They have their limitations, of course, and one needs to be very aware of the time, effort (and weight) of fairing them to a standard such that they can be painted. Yes, of course closed cell foam is far better in this respect than many other materials, but it's not immune.
In the end, strip-plank got the nod partly for cost reasons, but mostly because it was actually lighter than the foam core equivalent.
These small holes fill easily and are next to imposable to find once the sheathing goes on. My only boatbuilding experience is an Optimist dinghy 34 years ago and more recently a wood epoxy canoe. People I have shown the plans cannot believe the detail you have given but I suppose you hear that all the time!

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