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Originally Posted by solrac hi guys, I'm a kind of a newbie to al this concerning to design of a 30" sailboat.
Location: lithuania Nice job, although I didn't like the shape of the hull. The best results I've got in modern sailboat hulls is to use 3 x 3 control point surfaces and changing the point weight to get the shape, LCB and prismatic coefficient right.
Location: santo domingo, dominican republic Why two set of runners on each side?
Location: lithuania I would rewove one of the rear bunks with cocpit loker, it would make sailing a lot easyer, because, you always have a lot of struf on an ordinary cruiser. If you still want to keep those racy sheeting angles you could put the tracks on the cabin top. I'll work on the steering mechanism (don't you think a wheel will reduce too much the cockpit space?) and the engine. Location: lithuania steering weel uses less space in the cocpit than tiller, you need a lot of space to turn it, and if you are sailing with friends free space would probably be hard to find , and mounting autopilot system (which might be very usefull for sailor like you) would be simplier to.
Originally Posted by tamkvaitis steering weel uses less space in the cocpit than tiller, you need a lot of space to turn it, and if you are sailing with friends free space would probably be hard to find , and mounting autopilot system (which might be very usefull for sailor like you) would be simplier to. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
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Boat Plans and boat designs from select Naval Architects, Yacht Designers, and Marine Architects. Location: Brazil Cal 40' Interior Plans I'm a Westlawn Institute of Marine Design Student and woodworker.


Location: San Juan Islands I can see where the shadows on the hull may have confused the OP. You have to agree that picture shows something different unusual at least for my experiences. Originally Posted by Dryfeet I can see where the shadows on the hull may have confused the OP. I would very much appreciate any comments whether sofar anything wrong with the following diamentions. Location: Eustis, FL The hull form modeled there, wold typically be referred to as a freak and not to be taken very seriously, for obvious reasons. Location: Lakeland Fl USA I presume that the middle drawing is the curve of areas of your boat.
Location: auckland nz If you're going to carry a cat rig right up front, you will need more substance there to carry mast weight and more buoyancy for the sail power to lean onto - and not push the bow down - as will surely happen with your fine bowed design, hard steering will result. Your as drawn boat would be okay with a conventional rig stepped further aft, then you could keep your fine and hollow bow, which you obviously like. This 18 foot design carries a double cat rig (sketch) and balances very well, is powerful and fast. Location: argentina Adriano, you are more or less ok on some buttocks of the bodyplan view, but far away on the other views. Originally Posted by quequen Adriano, you are more or less ok on some buttocks of the bodyplan view, but far away on the other views. This will prevent the mainsail to open freely when running, and will add up to more work, which can be a burden when short handed. From the line drawing of the sections it appears you have some major localised flat spots, hollows and maybe even creases.
The rig could lose the runners for your style of sailing, maybe a running backstay for mast bend and a baby stay to stop the mast from pumping.
This design uses stering system similar to stering with steering weel it is dificult to see, the ruder is in front of the tiller! A catboat is a traditional hull of wide flat form, usually centerboard, with beam typically half of length,and with a single mast mounted far forward.


You will surely wish to change the lines of the boat so that the area distribution is a lot closer to the curve of a conventional boat. Not saying this is the apotheosis of dinghy design but just an example of a similar sized hull to your own. I have seen prety nice removable and rotating stering weel systems, so it can be removed or rotated, to minimize place required. However as this is a second-hand boat she doesn't have the original plans, and she bought it (or her) with its (hers) interior already modified. And I would try to move the engine as far aft as posible (I like dashev concept) It would make a lot of space inside. Even tough I've been on the hunt for some time now I have not been able to find any shred of useable information about the original interior layout.
They developed as working sail for the shallow waters around Cape Cod and Long island sound, but are now usually pleasure craft. If you're concerned about dragging sterns in light airs, you just shift crew forward and to leeward, which leaves a fine clean wake. Actualy you should look more on th dashev boats, thay look (I have not sailed any) great sailing boats, with huge amount of comfort.
With an open transom like this it is much easier to access the boat trough the transom from a dinghy or pontoon than with a wheel. If you transpose the outline of the cabin on to the layout plan you will see that above most of your seating areas you have little or no headroom and no shoulder room or full headroom in what I think is the head. Ciao, ajmes Silver Raven View Public Profile View Silver Raven's Gallery Find all posts by Silver Raven Page 1 of 3 1 23 > « Displacement vs Actual Wts?



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