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The Hull Truth Boating and Fishing Forum *THE HULL TRUTH is the world’s largest FREE network for the discussion of Boating Fishing. Vikings are known as fearless warriors, but they wouldn’t have gotten anywhere without being great shipbuilders. According to Jorn Loset of Norway, most skills and knowledge were passed down verbally without any drawings or diagrams. The following video shows the building of a present day Viking ship using the same techniques as originally used. David enjoys research and writing about cutting edge technologies that hold the promise of improving conditions for all life on planet earth.
Please let me inform you that we also in Denmark have a museum with these great ships from 1000 years ago.
In preparing the RC boat hull for the next step, you can now carefully remove the structure from the building board. Also, we're done with the hull alignment template that was placed under the wax paper to guide component placement and alignment. After you remove the hull frame from the building board, remove any wax paper remnants if any. Place the hull frame on top and position the raised part of the transom inbetween the "legs" of the deck. Trim away the area of the keel where the propeller will pass through it, thus creating a tunnel for ditto. Now peel away the template (make sure all bulkhead locations are transferred first!) and place it on a flat surface with the attached doubler facing down. Propeller shaft tunnel finished - note faint pencil marks for bulkhead #4 just to the left of the doublers.
Transom and keel transition - note how the keel is lined up to the center line of the transom and flush at the rear.
A square corner of a balsa sheet is held against the hull at each station and the edge of chine shelf and keel is marked on the balsa.
Lay the sheet down on your cutting surface and lay a straight-edge between the two tick marks and cut with a razor blade or X-acto knife.
Now the hull frame is ready for sanding to smooth out the shape some and to give the skin more edge to hold onto. Location: Newcastle, ME USA If you use an existing hull, no matter how you change it, it is still theft, still actionable, and still despicable.
Location: toronto thats why u keep the first one u make and say that is what u used and sink and burn the one u copied hire illegals to build it they dont like to talk, also hire a good law firm ,one who likes to boat. Location: Chicago I agree that the project, as presented may be illegal, but a little question here. If I buy a book and I want to carry a chapter with me, I don't need to buy a second copy and take a pair of scissors to it- I can just photocopy the pages and use them.
If I buy a CD, I can legally rip a copy to my iPod (no matter how difficult RIAA make it to do, it's still legal unless the terms of the Licensing Agreement say otherwise and to my knowledge they never do). So, by analogy, doesn't it follow that if I own a boat and I make a mold from my boat and produce a part for my own boat, that I haven't really "stolen" anything?

I suppose those guys that buy dataplates from classic cars and rebuild an all-new car around the data plate are also engaging in theft, then? Of course, by the time it's all done, you'll have spent twice as much money on the molds as on the boat itself, but I don't think it's illegal.
Location: 2 hrs north of Toronto Are you doing this to get into the buisness, or to build your own cool custom boat? I do a bit of design work and when I did my apprenticeship some 35 years ago in design and development we took competitors products apart to see how they did things especially a new development.
Probably the boat you are going to copy is not in production any more and the manufacturers have designed a new one and couldn't give a rodents rectum if you copied it or not. If you check out Sunsations web sight the owner admits that this is how he got started in the business.
Toot-thanks for the comparisons, makes me feel a little better about the question, and your right is happens in many other industries and markets and people don't consider it illegal or unethical. Location: MI So the next questions are (if its ok to ask) who has done this?
Location: 2 hrs north of Toronto Thanks, I have lots of pics of progress to date, unfortunately it has not progressed much since these. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Norse ship design was passed down from father to son from generation to generation as the art was developed and refined. Traditional boat making before the Vikings involved the use of timber formed into strakes or ribs. The earliest boats were waterproofed with animal guts, which also served to bind the strakes together. It is placed in town Roskilde which was the capital of Denmark many centuries ago and where most of the Danish kings and queens are buried at the Roskilde dome. However, if your building board is really dark, or just ugly, you can lay the template upside down under a fresh sheet of wax paper.
Give the deck side of the structure a light sanding with 120 grit sandpaper backed with a flat sanding block. However, when it comes to installing a propeller shaft most of those builders would be scratching their heads trying to get a propeller shaft tunnel aligned correctly. Do as follows:On the keel, we need to stay clear of the bulkhead #4 location, so make sure the keel is well marked in that area. Prop up either extreme of the keel with scraps of material until level and clamp or place weights on top.
The purpose is to provide a temporary landing and support for the next step in fitting the lower triangular parts of the bulkheads.When I built the prototype it took me a while to figure this out, so they may be missing in some of the pictures below. Just like when the deck was attached, keeping the keel perpendicular and centered is more important than locating front to back. With the other hand, with a sharp pencil, mark the edge where the keel and chine shelf intersect (see picture below). You can save a little time by using the first triangle at each station as a template for the opposite side.

Even if the wax paper looks clean and comes right off, I'd opt to replace it for the next step. It will provide a light, neutral background when you build that makes it easier to spot things that are out of the norm or things you drop or spill.
Go easy as the only purpose is to take down any obvious high spots.Put the hull frame aside while we focus on the two deck halves (item "B" on the plans). Don't expect them all to line up perfectly, but it will give you a good idea of how close to ideal you are at this point.Also check and make sure the frame is making contact with the deck along the deck stringers, transom, bulkheads and the stem piece. It would require a jig, extra long drill and some luck to get it right.We're going to take much of the tool requirements out of it and stop relying on luck for success, here is how. Next, lay the keel (template down) on a flat surface and glue one doubler to the back side of the keel just ahead of the #4 bulkhead location and line it up parallell with the bottom of the keel.If you're off by a few millimeters from either that's fine. Try hard not to cut into the doubler.The prototype used a 4mm outer diameter stuffing tube, so that's the size marked on the drawing and template. Glue the second doubler in place and weigh or clamp to the assembly.Same rules apply as far as location - stay clear of bulkhead #4 location etc. The easiest and best way to locate the keel front to back is to sand the front-most part of the chine shelf flush to the angle of the stem piece. I thought at first I would design and build my own hull but I would rather use a design that has already been proven and tested. The use would be to start up a type of amateur boat racing, somewhat like mini offshore racing.
Align them at the pinnacle of the stem and check alignment at the rear edge where they join.
If care has been taken so far in cutting out the parts and aligning, nothing should be too far out of alignment.When things look good place drops of thin CA along stem piece, bulkheads and deck stringers. Try not to have the doubler extend passed the bottom of the keel, it's better if you err on the other side. This way you'll have an edge that should correspond with the front-most edge on the keel.As you can see on the picture below, I didn't do it this way, but it would have made things a little easier. I like to work from the center and towards each end so it adds some well needed stability to the keel. At this point, place a piece of tape over the joint to temporarily hold them together and flip the deck over with the tape facing down.
Instead I eye-balled it in by looking at the profile and having the curved part of the keel tangent the angle of the stem.
To start we would split the cost of building the mold, from then we would build a prototype, and then each member would be responsible for building there own boat. Pin or weigh the deck down on the building board.Mark the bulkhead locations across the same way as you did on the chine shelf. After that if anyone wants to join they would pay there share of the original mold material and use the mold to build there boat.

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