Pontoon boat rental gulf shores 36542

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The image posted is of a jet-powered wingboat design (it extends the logic of the tunnel hull design to the point where the entire craft is lifted out of the water on an induced cushion of air). Also, if someone has links to hydrodynamics, and the role of steps and chines in hull design, I would be greatful. Location: Gulf Coast You intended to take this as plane at the high speed runs. Location: Jamestown, RI, USA Peter T - I'll see your concerns about the nose falling, and raise you a pair of tailerons. From the positioning of the weights (visible) on this thang, I'd say that the nose will be fine, and the dynamics will take care of it. I haven't found any Tailless design stuff yet, but I know I have some, so I'll have a look over the next few days.
Location: Southern England These two sites are worth a look for extreme boats (and the Bladerunner) some of which are similar to the boat here.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. I can't find a picture of it anywhere online, but it seems like something that would be right in line with what I'm looking for.
Any feedback (or better suggestions) on either of these three designs based on what I want to do with the boat? Just a personal bias, but I believe strip built can be reasonably quickly done if you work out a plan. You are essentially having to build a top deck on the two pontoons, plus all the connections to the living space, when in a catamaran, you at least get some storage as the cabin and deck extend up.
Likewise, most pontoons are made of pre-shaped tubes, These create buoyancy issues the more they are submerged, as you get, as they get narrower in section when the waterline exceeds the widest point. Pontoons are OK when you need to dissemble the craft for storage perhaps, or you have been given free steel tubes, but it wouldn't be the starting point for a new build.
When you design a boat ignoring all the basic needs of the material and the boat you will get something you don't want.
On the other hand, lots of people talk about how square sectioned cat hulls are not very much increased resistance.
Most catamarans that I would care to consider do have a weight limitation for their length. 300# for the hulls and crossbeams (if you can use them), 800# for people (4*200# as an assumption), 400# of stuff, and that leaves 500# for deck and motor. Small boats are always asked to carry more gear than they should, so its often a better decision to go monohull if you have fishing gear, people etc that need carrying.
But this usage also makes secondhand Tornado hulls and gear very cheap, as they lose their competitive edge long before they lose their seaworthiness. If you can get cheap secondhand hulls, I also think a useful work boat could be developed. Once again though, if you have to build from scratch, the monohull will provide a better carry to cash ratio. Nice slam with the "tornado's lose their competitive edge" but what did that have to do with anything? And yes, I knew they started as plywood - I had to repair one in Darwin after Cyclone Tracy damaged it.
The reason all small cats 'lose their competitve edge" and you see them for sale only after 3 or 4 years ( and I have bought 4 in my time ) is that the extra weight from repairing dings, damaged gear ( rudders and daggerboards where applicable ) make it cheaper and easier ( and I suspect skipper phsychology plays a part in it ) to start from new. Originally Posted by upchurchmr So hull speed is always an interesting thing for monohulls (little relevance for catamarans, unless they are too portly) I dont think you still 'get' my point. If you have two boats that have to carry the same cargo weight, a well designed monohull will require less material to build the hull and less power to push it to its hull speed.


You will need to get over the image long skinny hull form of cats versus widebodied monhulls, that have it a higher hull speed. I refer to the powered 30 ft long canoes of large river systems that can get over 30 knots from a 20hp outboard.
Likewise - rowing shells, the epitome of hullform efficiency, are faster than multihull configuration where you make two smaller hulls large enough to support the rower. Originally Posted by upchurchmr Are you still going to compare a Steel catamaran to a plywood monohull?
Citing the boats Rick Willoughby is talking about is rather far from the OP's discussion, since they are very extreme, and human powered and don't apply. Much as I liked MoePorter's suggestion of a freighter canoe, yet again you are not discussing something comparable to a 16' boat the OP suggested when you discuss a 30' freighter. I don't think a rowing shell could carry 4 people, a motor, and their equipment, in any acceptable form. Your discussion is to take some unrelated example and make an unrelated point, all while assuming limitations that probably would not be desirable. Location: Hawaii Reduction of side windage on an electric catamaran I am working on the design of a solar electric live-aboard catamaran. Such vessels must use energy very efficiently in order to have enough juice to meet the conditions encountered.
If you want to get cute about it, you could give the cross-section a gentle bulge, like a venturi, but I doubt it would generate a lot of lift even in strong cross-wind.
Location: Jamestown, RI, USA You may find it more beneficial to leave the skirts as a full section.
Location: Thailand SailDesign is right, small openings produce more drag than plain surface.
You have only very few means to influence windage drag, but probably You should consider daggerboards to prevent excess yaw?
Location: Hawaii Possible wind harnessing concepts I looked in the SWATH thread but found no mention of a book.
I think fitting windmills to such openings would not gain you much since the power in the wind varies as the cube of the wind speed and proportionally to the swept area of the rotor. So if you were to convert energy it probably makes the most sense to redirect whatever winds could be channelled into such openings to directly help propel the boat as a sail boat does.
In the right circumstances, with a wind straight from the side and shutters deployed at a 45 degree angle, this must convert to thrust because of the deflection factor. Location: Port Gamble, Washington, USA Hoerner is probably the best place to look, as he has empirical data for all kinds of situations.
Unfortunately, for the kind of application you have, these methods won't be capable of showing the difference in minor design details. A lot of the research has now been superseded or is irrelevent, but some may just throw in an alternative thought. Worth, Tx, USA I really like the freighter canoe over the Instant ugly boats. Of course most people think you need some freeboard, which the upper half of the tube provides, while also providing the bending stiffness required to be out in the waves. Square crosssection is really pretty easy with plywood, or even strip planked, even when you taper the ends and put some rocker in the boat.
A well designed monohull will carry more load with less resistance than any two hulled craft. This is the point at which you can't go faster without a huge increase in power, or starting to plane (which requires a large power to begin with). Headwinds can be somewhat mitigated by minimizing frontal area, smoothing all surfaces, and following aerodynamic principals as much as is practical.


My original design included openings in the sides of the boat between the cabin and the hulls. I noticed that the crosswind would push the boat forward as well as in the direction of the wind. In light of the comments by Nero, SailDesign and Alik, perhaps it would be worth considering adjustable vertical flaps in the openings that would convert windage into forward thrust. In any case, the point of having greater onboard access for batterries stored in the hulls is definitely a consideration. Since it has been stated here that a smooth sided hull has less windage penalty than openings would have (although I believe that to be too general a statement to apply to all situations), then if the openings are filled with vertical shutters, then the smooth face can be achieved if they are closed. If the hull sides were shaped to form a concentrating duct to the openings then the wind hitting the entire side of the hull could potentially be involved. This is potentially a way to combine windpower directly with photovoltaics without having the sails over the boat that put the PV in shadow. Looking at the forebody, it seems there is not sufficient cushion surface, neither a tunnel can help in a sharp bow configuration. I have been a little harried with work projects, so I have not been able to do any work on updates. About the rendering, I can get a little top brisk in my quick sketches Do you have any advice from your WIG experience? It needs to be hydrodynamic enough to get over the hump drag and get the body airborne so that ground effects can come into play. Anyone who designs a boat to be loaded past the max width in the water deserves what he gets. I guess we would have to compare the exact material list with one of the 16 ft monohull box boats. Depending on the angle of the side wind, they could automatically adjust their angle to convert the vector. If there is a windage on the flat faced hull of say 1 meter x 12 meters, that is quite a bit of area.
I beleive the class 1 boys use controllable vents in the wings, thereby reducing the pressure, bringing the bow back up.
Side winds are not simply an energy issue but also a control issue when energy is constrained.
Also, I remember a book called 'Dhows to Deltas' I can't remember who wrote it, but it has now gone out of print.
Though I have access to a copy (for the next few weeks, so I'll have a look and post what I think may be useful. The question is what would be the best way to incorporate pass-through openings between the hulls and the cabin. On the other hand, the entire side of the boat would tend to act as an air dam, increasing the density and velocity of the air moving through the side opening.
Probably scan it and post it as a .zip file (the appropriate pages, that is, not the book).
In the case of my boat, the hulls will not be used for living space, but only for liquid storage, and battery stowing. At the low speeds of such a boat (< 12 kts) I don't believe that the aerodynamic drag introduced by open vanes would offset the wind energy captured by such an arrangement.



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Comments to «How to copy a boat design online»

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