Pontoon boat rental gulf shores 36542

Atlanta wooden boat association membership
Location: London, UK Small steel boat Hi, I have a number of pieces of steel salvaged from a houseboat remodelling job I did. This boat is biger than 12 feet, but You can have problems with wight if You want exactly 12 feet. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: South Africa Welding a steel hull Elsewhere in another thread there were some discussions about welding procedures etc for steel hulls, more so aimed at amateurs, and I believe that this warrants its own tread and some constructive contributions may lead from this. I am not a qualified welder per say, but a qualified boilermaker for the last 31 years and have work with every kind of welding rod (well, mostly) and different steels etc. Herewith my humble contribution based on personal experiences for welding mild steel hulls. I think the AWS E6013 is a good all rounder for the amateur, especially if a good brand is used. For starters, it needs DC to performs best and needs at least an OCV (open circuit voltage) of 70 or more to weld satisfactory. Secondly, E7018 needs to be stored in a hotbox to be totally dry and at the right temperature - have a whitish colour when ready to use. For someone that is just starting to learn to weld,start with any of the rods you have available and practice, try the defferent rods to see whitch rods burn better with your particular welding machine.
To me cutting is just as important, good clean cuts with good fit up, without this it doesnt matter what you weld it with you will have infierior welds with more distortion.
Mig is great if building indoors or putting up wind breaks , flux core is ok to but for someone just starting out it takes a bit more learnin. Originally Posted by tazmann By the way the Dix 43 your building looks great,may I ask what you welded it with ? First the self shielded flux core wire (E71T-11): I hate it on the boat, love it for farm implements. Location: British Columbia Welding I find enough flat welding ( Hull decks, Cabinside decks, chines, tank tops, etc) to get a lot of use out of 7024 and a slight uphand weld works well. I am going to have to try out one of those inverter stick welders, never heard anything bad about one.
The wire I used is also ER70S-6 but with an Argonshielding gas (Ash5) consisting of 93% Argon, 5% CO2 and 2% Oxygen. As I said before, the E7024 is a brilliant rod, providing you have flat surfaces to weld as you mentioned.
You have to experience welding stainless steel with these critters, so smooth and it melts like butter. BTW, for the layman, a rule of thumb method to set a welding machine to the correct amperage for any given rod; multiply the thickness of electrode (mm) by 40. Otherwise, I am fairly mystified to see so much talk our days about stick welding up a hull. Brent mentioned the freedom to move around, which we did consider and counter balance by a suit case feeder (I have 50ft leads to my case and a 20 ft gun).
I think the real push away factor from MIG for the backyard builder is the cost of the gear and gas (again self shield wire can be used, I don't think it's certified by Loyd's but it is by ABS). When I jack the stern up to put the skeg on , the foreward centreline is horizontal , a good time to 7024 weld it, before jacking the bow up to put the keel on.
When I first decided to build the 26 I was going to build it out at the dairy in the shop, migs. Thick headed me got the hint so I built it here at the house, outside on the dirt driveway.
Location: Alaska Welding reply from adjacent topic Wynand thanks for the initiative to move this discussion (welding) onto its own topic. I'm replying principally to Brent Swain's post about 6011 and its all around utility in application to metal boat building.
Brent's point was that the overall usefulness of the 60 series made that small learning period worthwhile and noted the 7018 rod's finickiness, or sensitivity to contamination- not something the 6011 rod had problems overcoming. I fully agree, the 6011 rod will stay molten longer and the cellulose flux cover helps the very 'runny' puddle or very 'wet' puddle to give up gas much more than 7018. My remarks were targeting the new welder, someone without the reflexes that hours of staring at the arc bring.
I have enough problems welding well that I don't need to lower my expectations any or it would be a complete mess.
I have always had 3 phase, 240 power for all my MIG and Stick machines and until I re-read Wynand's remarks about minimum open circuit voltage for 7018- I hadn't seen the effect my shop had on my experiences.
I used the Lincoln 300 Idealarc power supply until switching to the PowCon inverters in the early 80's. I now use the Lincoln Power MIG 350 on single phase but its still 100 Amp 240 volt service.
When I pipe welded for oilfield fab shops we had the same or larger capacity machines, rod ovens, full time helpers to clean the weld with a power wheel between passes, hand you the rod and generally make the work go smooth. If the conditions aren't perfect, I'm in the habit of building a building to get them improved enough to control so I can do the work in the controlled environment I have been taught is needed to do the work to the levels required.
I've always had a few Cobramatic (Push-Pull) wire feeders (all water cooled 350 Amp torches) from the MK company so I now have their new Python push-pull MIG gun in air and water cooled versions and they're very nice feeders which I only use on aluminum.
For all TIG use I prefer the OTC Dahein TIG Gun which I run on the Miller Dynasty 300DX power supply. For stainless, pipe or plate, I rarely use anything but TIG as the wire change in the little TIG gun is as fast as rigging a stick electrode to a power supply.
Two handed (manual) TIG is only realistic for someone who welds frequently but the TIG gun allows the less talented to use this very clean and controlled method of welding more easily. I (now) prefer to use plasma over a gas torch for most cutting in steel but have used an acetylene torch for many years for most cuts. I think Murielle's MIG versus stick value comparison exactly reflects my thinking on the issues effecting my decisions about the two methods. This point may reveal a contradiction on Brent's stance for use of the AC buzzbox since he makes so many time base weighted points.
Location: Australia Apart from a few specialised welds, back-gouging and stainless the sticks have been replaced by MIG around here and that may be because our sticks are more expensive. Gas mixes make a big difference to the weld too straight CO2 is cheap and gives deeper penetration in thicker sections (with more splatter). Amateurs can produce some very nice flat looking welds that don't penetrate with supa-argon etc. ER70S -3 is the common cheaper wire, Murielle mentions the ER70S-6 , Still the same deposited material but has a different initial composition giving lower silicon surface deposits and is more surface tolerant wrt rust and scale. Originally Posted by kmorin I have never used propane instead of acetylene so I can't reflect on that gas for torch fuel. I bought a small one few months ago that can cut to 10mm steel and run her with a small 7.8cfm compressor - very nice but some places you still have to use the old trusted oxy-acetylene setup. Always replace the cutting tip and electrode as a unit at the same time, as a worn or damaged electrode will destroy the tip in no time.
I haven't used a drill in steel for about 4 years now, with a steady hand and a well set up cutter its possible to make very fast very neat holes (for me it's a great bonus as the big drill in steel is to strong and rips my shoulder out). Location: Iowa Run it as is if you can, drydock it if you can't and wait until things get better.
This little vessel was commissioned as a viable replacement for the traditional open wooden fishing boats used on Lake Malawi. Economy of construction is achieved by plating hulls over a spaceframe, giving a fast turn-around.
Powering for Lake Malawi is intended to be 20hp outboard for economy of operation in no great hurry. The hull has a planing form but it was drawn to be relatively efficient over a range of moderate speeds rather than at high speed. Although drawn for steel,she could be built in aluminium as well, at increased construction cost but reduced operating cost.
All of the Glen-L boats that are designed specifically for steel construction are in this category.
Metal Boat Building – True round hull designs and advice for the home How to build a better metal boat? Metal Boat Building – A forum to discuss and share tips and project updates on the building or renovation of steel and aluminum boats.
Much debate has been going on whether small steel boat plans are the best blueprints to use in building a DIY boat. Cut panels from the steel sheet metal that will become the hull of the boat, using the dimensions indicated on the plans. Steel engineered building design information for plans, and ease of erecting a steel plan verses plans with a conventional structure.
Boat Plan Design – Various Boat Building Choices Boat building is rather frequent these days with everybody wanting to develop their very own boat. Starting a do-it-yourself project requires a high-quality set of boat building plans, patterns or drawings in a choice of construction methods, designs, and styles.


Structural strength a priority over everything else Thats something you just haven't gotten. Originally Posted by Brent Swain .My trunk cabin has over 8,000lbs of buoyancy when inverted. With a traditional sheer , the buoyancy in the raised ends adds considerably to ultimate stability. Originally Posted by Brent Swain Elsewhere on this site, it was mentioned that the 40 foot design that the young Aussie girl had to abandon in the Indian ocean, was put inverted in calm water by a crane, and it righted itself quickly. Originally Posted by Brent Swain I find model experiments address all these variables, far better than calculations. Location: Japan Well, it is nice to see Brent asking his friends to support him, always good to have friends, no matter how misguided their loyalty is to someone they consider a craftsman. Brent refuses to to understand basic structural mechanics and cannot even answer a simple question, which according to Sheetwise, is easy anyone can. Brent refuses to allow several posters who are willing to provide their FEA services for free, yes, free, to address his structural philosophy. Unfortunately, the import aspects such as the magnitude of the load, the boundary conditions, the method of applying the loads and where it is applied, for example, are missing. Brent constantly states how quick and easy it is to build, yet only he has built them that fast. Whenever anyone asks Brent for simple clarification to simple questions, rather than getting replies or answers, as noted in the “origamimagic” website, how does Brent reply? That's a clear window into his soul and his character, and I'm not impressed with what I see. Judging by his posts in this thread, Brent's pride is based more on his ability to avoid working, than it is on the quality of his work. The fact is that competent craftsmen don't have two levels of quality for their work: one for the parts that no one will ever see, and another for the parts that show. Originally Posted by Brent Swain My trunk cabin has over 8,000lbs of buoyancy when inverted. Location: Vancouver For those who missed the point of post #410 Post #410 of this thread was written to illustrate a point, though that point - as I expected it to be - was missed by some. Post #410 was to make the point to Brent that no one likes to be called names, nor have their integrity questioned.
1) When a post quotes another post, if there is no form of separation, it seems to read as if both sentences are being stated by Brent.
So, do I really believe that Brent is a liar, thief, scammer, and all of the other awful words I used to describe him? Unless a proper X ray quality procedure weld was done, the welding would always be weaker than the plate. Originally Posted by Brent Most steel welding is stronger than the surrounding plate, far stronger than any connections in any other material, which makes it far stronger than any loads it will encounter.
A chain is as strong as its weakest link and when steel is joined by whatever method, that would be the weak link. Most welds done by amateurs on boats are very suspect with only partial or no penetration at all, slag filled etc and with very high caps that makes welds in fact weaker and in NDT procedures would be rejected, even when done faultlessly by a professional welder.
But perhaps Mike (WF), Ad Hoc and MikeJohns give us all more insight into welds as they are more qualified to do so rather than listening to the crap BS dish up. Originally Posted by Brent Swain The "Rules' have only given us extremely expensive and labour intensive boats, which put them out of reach of far to may people. You have choosen the latter road, so heat from NAs who have been taught for many long years only to believe hard facts is understandable.
It is also interesting to note when I have decided to learn applying scantling rules in this forum, the same NAs were calling me names who now mocking Brent.
Additionally, it is worth noting even before you weld, that a rolled steel plate will generally have different properties in the longitudinal, transverse and through thickness directions. Given the caveats above, testing is then conducted at what is called cross joint, or CJ tensile test. Whilst the HAZ-parent metal has the same thickness as the parent metal, it has lower hardness owing to the low cooling rate which in turn is shown by a minor change in the grain structure. A longitudinal weld test, the force is shared more equally over a constant strength of the steel, and produces different results. Again, the photos show the weld on the upright of the angle taking the load, being in longitudinal sheer , the weld running at a right angle to the load making the top weld far less relevant . Originally Posted by Ad Hoc Some assumptions are required, to ?generalise?, and I do stress ?generalise?.
So, I assume that the column or columns are not of concern and that these as described will not buckle. It strikes easily, and is good for most positions and basically, any type of welding machine can be used AC or DC, from shoebox type of transformer to inverters.
It weld all positions brilliantly, very strong weld but have a few problems to the amateur. And this puts it outside most amateur's range as most potable AC welders have an OCV of 50 and sometimes much less. This electrode is also very finicky on dirty or rusted surfaces and prefer a grind clean surface. It is used mainly in the steel fabrication world and is a perfect rod for welding fillet joints (corners) and pipe flanges in in a lesser way butt joints.
Its only real draw back is that there must be no wind interference to blow the shielding gas away, and if so, porosity in the weld will be the result.
I have met and worked with a lot of different welders over the years, each have there preferance for one reason or another.
Most of the time the welding was done at about 175 - 180A range where this baby has cycle duty of 90%.
It's easy to use, no need to worry about wind and when run hot for thick steel it's fairly tolerant about cow crap in hard to clean corners, perfect for an emergency solid fix. I found that at the junction between beads even if well brushed, it seems to always be a bit of flux at the end and beginning of beads which causes small pin holes or defect when joining them (apparent when the bead is ground down). I know, I would get hotter arc with strait co2 but I hate spatter, even the most little bit of it. With the decks thus solidly anchored , when you then put a weld under the deck , it wraps the hull plate around the deck edge, causing oil canning. We found the shortness of the cable, and the need to keep moving the machine, too much trouble, so we left a gas driven stick welder outside and tacked the sheel together with it.
Unfortunately the type of construction of the boats I build have plenty sheers etc making it a bit awkward. My 200A unit is rated 100% cycle duty at 165A - more than you will need on small boat building.
Since the 200A inverter has a OCV of 70, it welds E7018 (LH - low hydrogen rod) just like any other, straight out of the box and un-heated!
My husband and I have done a price analysis and pros and cons chart about welding up a hull with stick versus mig before buying good gear. About the wind I already mentioned that issue in previous post, it isn't that much of a problem and I'd still rather use self shield wire than sticks. Considering the cost of equipment, a good MIG machine can be resold at fair value after a one time project.
Yes, they say that the tools don't make the carpenter but I believe that for two EVEN carpenters the one with the better tools will make the better work (or at least will do it faster). But all these machines make welding with 7018 like spreading butter and that is my experience. Very important to get them to cut open test welds and have a look as well as the bend bash tests. I am pretty lucky when it comes to tools as my husband and I are pretty good at justifying them and will feed each other all the best reasons to get new toys.
I found that for all wires used the results were at there best at the higher amperage of there range. Depletion of the indiginous timber stocks had forced a rethink on the construction material but construction had also to be economical.
Three permanent frames are set up as part of the spaceframe, onto which the longitudinals are fitted then the hull plating.
This design can still be built from plans only, with the builder drawing the frames from offsets and dimensions on the drawings. The added mass of the steel can be used to design a boat that gives the comfortable Devlin's Boat Building, by Sam Devlin. Get metal building steel building online quotes Each part of the design process should be explained and offered for your approval. How can someone take a boat design, follow the boat plans and turn it into a gorgeous sailing vessel he can be proud of? So keep the beam moderate and use trunk cabins and wheelhouses, stick to that which enhances ultimate stability throughout the design, and you won't have a problem. It does not address displacement, instability and fatigue, nor multiaxial loading, which all boats must account for in structural design.


This sadly reduces the images to just nice pretty pictures and no basis for real comparison.
Perhaps, a few members will recall that I have done this before, and that I waited a day, or so, before explaining why I made the post, as I am doing so now. It was also to make the point to those who are friends or fans of Brent, that members, such as myself, become angry when Brent calls someone whom we respect a less than favourable name, or makes personal attacks, simply because they do not share his views. Yes, it would have been nice to see the transverse framing thread answer the OP's question, rather than see Brent try to push his concept of building without them - which is what originally lit the fuse, imho - and I'd like to think that Brent might, in the future, send a private message to someone if his sole determination is to sell his plans, rather than to answer a question. However, he does not have the knowledge to give advice on welding & should get himself a few books from the library shelf, so he can research the information before offering his opinion.
More worrisome is the fact that most of the welds are grind smooth leaving very little left. They have paid zero attention to the biggest obstacle to people living out their cruising dreams , time and money. Do the calculations which have been done behind the rules for himself, and choose safety factors to optimize for the design goal.
For example, the steel is basic low carbon grade A type, it is not thermally or mechanically treated to improve its properties.
This is a test across the joint, from parent metal to HAZ to weld and back to the parent metal the other side, ie transverse to the weld. The reason being is the temperature increase during welding affects the final grain structure, it changes size and that the HAZ edge furthest away from the weld, has a lower cooling rate. This calculates the rate of cooling and thus predicts the hardening effcts during welding and is based upon the chemical composition. The reason being that all welds contain flaws be they minor or major, this cannot be avoided (this too is a whole subject in itself).
The one previos picture the support pipes were not tied into the webs and I agree it would be better tied in.
Furthermore, I am busy with my 19th steel hull, in short; being there, done that and have a badge.
The bad part is that it can only be used in a downhand flat position, and even a slight angle off the horizontal, will cause a mess with it. From my reading about the stuff, I was expecting it to be a little more surface tolerant, at least to mil scale or red oxide primer.
This makes a hull deck weld stronger than the deck plate and eliminates the overhead welding under the deck, drastically reducing distortion . If one is determined to have a weld under the deck, then putting the bottom weld on first , simply pulls the decks to the hull plate.
When I started my boat I was using my lincoln SA 250, diesel was cheap now its costing about $2.50 an hour to run it and that adds up in a hurry. I will burn (feed) on its own rate and yes, if the the welding machine was set properly, you will be rewarded with a super smooth weld.
Then the wife asked me when are you planning on working on this thing and I mentioned working on it over the weekends, Then she replied well we might as well get a devorce then if your going to be gone all the time. They are not so good on thick plates if you want a right angle edge since they produce a beveled edge. A Plywood wet deck and plywood seating are bonded to the steel structure, allowing access throughout the hull for proper painting prior to fitting the timberwork.
A centreline flat over the full length of the hull permits beam to be varied by changing the width of the flat. For those who prefer to bypass that step, we can supply the patterns on paper or on more stable Mylar.
The only thing that was missing this time, unless I missed it, was Brent's predictable ballistic response. When Brent's posts contain multiple quotes, it's just too damn much work to go back & find each quote.
I do believe that Brent does mislead, at times, and that he allows others to misinterpret, without correcting them. In nearly 40 years of cruising, I haven't seen any weld failures on finished boats, despite most being built by amateurs, with no welding credentials. The cross joint strength is usually required to exceed the minimum specified UTS of the parent metal.
In other words, this outer edge of the HAZ has a slightly lower yield stress or UTS than the surrounding plate and weld. Your new setup IMHO you have added more support from the inside edge of the keels out to the chines but if you look at the end view drawing the inside edges of the keels and support angles stop, there is no support till you get down into the sides of tanks where the webs get wider. This already puts you well below the loads you describe, even before 20-30 years of corrosion reduces the plate thickness further. Oil caning from the second weld on top simply tries to distort the bulwark cap, which is far more solid , and able to resist oil canning, altho a destruction test will show a second weld to be irrelevant..
I did buy a used miller dialarc 250 and been using that latley, welds good but thats a big heavy machine to move around. For materials we considered the sticks including stub wastage in stick welding; gas, wire and tips for mig. However, as Brent pointed out elsewhere, the cutting nozzle has to be replaced - an awkward to clean two piece unit and quite expensive here.
Actually, if one cut to fast, believe it or not, it wears out the nozzle in an oval or larger hole, causing a crappy cut. When we acquired our plasma we were advised to feed it with clean and dry air if we wanted to save on tips and nozzles.
This also allows the entire deck to be removed for proper repainting of the hull when that time comes, without concern about what may be happening in inaccessible corners that would be hidden under a steel deck. These features make her a versatile boat for a professional builder to be able to offer a range of boats from one basic design. Both are printed in 914mm (36") wide strips on our CAD plotter and supplied ready for transfer onto building boards on which you will construct the frames, or directly onto the material from which the hull skin panels will be cut.
I figure that Brent may have the same problem that I do, which is that I still haven't figured out how to multi-quote.
I know that Brent shows a lack of respect for anyone who disagrees with him, as well as, those he is in competition with.
You have to deliberately screw up, and work hard at it, to get it any weaker than the surrounding metal. This way one will have a boat with known strength and stability, with a carefully decided risk built in.
This way you can have strong and sturdy boats, but you will never know how strong are they actually. In most situations the weld metal is stronger than the parent metal - it is oversized - so that failure occurs in the parent metal or the HAZ at a stress above the specified minimum. Now if you emagine the same forses that bent up the old design in the new one, Rather than being bent up into the hull it looks more like the hul skins will shear at the tank top along the inside edges where the angle supports stop?
To me, the issues caused by that white powdery flux don't do up for the less worry about the wind. We obviously considered the equipment cost as it is more to MIG but still didn't see enough economic advantage of stick welding a hull to balance out the advantages of MIGging.
Perhaps, the most maligned of the latter, would be Thomas Colvin, who Brent appears to have some deep dislike for. 7024 has a tensile and compression strength of 70,000 lbs , in a surrounding metal of 60,000 lbs I did my apprenticeship as a Boilermaker and worked in a refinery (Sasol) as well as power stations where only top welds (X Ray) are performed by qualified welders and still I had seen a few of those weld failed where the pipes were sheared off on the weld. My welding skills were not even a consideration as I have no issues with stick welding (with a good machine).
Our air goes first threw a water separator (home made: copper pipe threw water bucket) a 5 micron filter and finally a 1 micron filter allocated only to the cutter. The realities at sea are that you have some dangerous design features that could fail nastily and they need improving. It is in humble recognition of these limitations and the desire to improve on them where we experience our greatest growth. Comfort out of position, in little nicknack holes, handling a live stick in a steel cage, the hasle of drying sticks, fumes, cleaning slag and many other considerations came in count. This set-up has payed its value in gold, I go threw amazingly little consumables and have very tidy cuts.
As Brent has no issues with being disrespectful to others, I feel no reluctance to treat him in the same manner. For rougher work (farm) I use the tips that start cutting on angle and save the better ones for finer work.



Boat building in your own backyard first edition
Build a boat from 1 sheet of plywood price
River boats for sale in georgia
Beginner wood model ship kits nz




Comments to «How to design a steel boat fittings»

  1. ASKA_SURGUN writes:
    Possibility amongst the supplies How To Select A Travel Boat Cover 1/14.
  2. Dj_SkypeGirl writes:
    For a ten-day tenting trip have.
  3. dalina_smerti writes:
    Add a number of drops and make a body she.
  4. RANGE_ROVER writes:
    Your boat, Since 1998, iboats is essentially the most trusted water that first important cup.