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Atlanta wooden boat association membership
I was chartering her for a while with everyone questioning why I would use such an old boat, and wood non the less. Location: Albany, NY Distin Boats I looked at the photo of the sunk boat. Brian, a gentleman emailed me last year because he heard I owned a Distin boat, he was doing research for an article he was writing, maybe the same author of that 2007 Adirondack Life Magazine. Dont put too much into what some of this lot say, they often look at it from a pure business perspective. My mom just sent me this link, I know it is a post from a while ago, but I thought I would give it a try!
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
I'm new around here - having just bumped into the forum this evening - but want to share something. The story so far: starting out from complete scratch, I've started building myself a very small wooden boat.
Below I've included some pictures of my progress, as well as my 'plans', which are really just a quick sketch.
I plan to make matching oars for the boat, and possibly add an electric trawling motor, which should propel it at a good clip. In terms of actual construction, I've used Spanish Cedar (Cedrela odorata) and African Mahogany (Khaya ivorensis).
I'd love to hear if anyone has comments or questions, and I'll try to keep this thread up to date with any developments, but the weather is still a few weeks away from cooperating with me.
Location: Eustis, FL If that blue line does represent the immersed volume it would be in the 700 to 800 pound range which is so over loaded it'll swamp in anything other then a still swimming pool. I was pretty satisfied with the projected displacement - but ultimately have no experience. Location: Brisbane What would make you think that a boat less than 10 feet, built of light wood, would weigh in over 600 lbs? If you plan on rowing this puppy, build as light as you can and trim the boat with the transom clear of the water. There is only one problem: you're getting me all excited to try it out, and it isn't ready yet! Location: Eustis, FL Your trolling motor will only push the boat to about 4 knots which is within it's displacement speed envelop, meaning yep, the transom should just clear or be slightly kissing the water underway.
You will not really have an idea of how things will work until you splash her and preform some trials under power and oar. The boat is now outside (has been for a week or two - hasn't turned into a mass of splinters due to humidity, either) and I've started all the messy stuff.
In the coming weeks I'll be adding trim, gunnels, etc., then flipping it over and doing seats and the like. Keep in mind that it'll be 'dry sailed' (only in the water a few hours at a time) and that I want to keep as much water as possible away from my adhesives. Location: maine Polyurethane, by your description, that which is used to cover floors, and which is clear rather than being a paint, is not thicker than varnish. Assuming you want to get a clear finish, the varnish has a UV protective additive that won't be found in the polyurethane.
You could lay down some plyurethane and protect it with varnish but why go to asll that trouble when varnish alone will do the job? Then you'll have more protection from the sun, which quickly turns polyurethane to a yellow hazy powder. If you start with spar varnish, (as it is properly called), you'll have to do at least 6 coats and probably 8. It's your boat, however, so varnish away if you must, but be aware you're making a purse from a sow's ear, which is fine, but you may want to know the truth, and save a few dozen hours of hard labor.
Location: Eustis, FL Polyurethanes cure much faster then traditional varnishes. To be honest, I'd been trying to stay clear of epoxy, but I guess I'll be giving it another look now. I like the suggestion of epoxying the hull and inside bottom, and then finishing with another clear finish.
Location: Samogitia Build of small mahogany sailboat with water jet propulsion I began to build a mahogany boat with water jet drive and and own design wingsail. Using AutoCAD I tried to design a boat hull somewhat similar dinghy, yachts and powerboats hulls.
My disposal I have a woodworking shop, CNC machining center, stainless steel welding equipment, AutoCAD using experience, joiners tools and experience.
Well, I still think I can build this boat and am looking forward to constructive criticism from you. Location: Samogitia Few pictures of boat building process CNC machined and assembled form for machogany boat build.


Location: France Man, it's already looking very good - specially when you say you have no experience with boat building. Location: Eustis, FL You don't really think that's anything close, to a reasonable set of sailing lines do you?
If honestly I think that for better sailing lines need more boat wide, smaller transom and may be deeper keel.
Location: Samogitia More of boat building process Showed that the first layer will not be easy to put correctly on the curved boat hull form.
Trying to resolve the situation with the springy rubber hose pieces pierced with wire hooks.
The second layer of mahogany cross diagonal bands is finished and sanded for outer 2,5 mm layer gluing. At this point, i am trying to identify shipyards that build wooden boats (all over the world) but it is rather difficult (i guess mainly cause these shipyards work in a more old fashion model so they don't use internet for their promotion).
Location: Washington You might want to try posting this query on Wooden Boat Forum. Originally Posted by alexandros As far as i understood your company builds boats and i assume you are a naval architect. MacLear & Harris, Yacht Designers » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Do you need Boat Builders?
I have been looking at building a boat for a bit now, I am looking at the Vagabond 20' or 23' as a trailer sailor, large enough for a weekend sail with the kids and small enough to haul. If so what did you find challenging about the build or what improvements would you suggest? Location: Australia It might be a bit too sporty for your requirements but a current design for home building that is gaining momentum is the i550. Nice looking craft, I'll take it into consideration ,and review it today, I appreciate your replies, good budget to build as well I see. That said a 20-25 ft is a great size and trailerable, although I can set a mooring at his place and not have to worry about the trailering so much.
Location: OREGON Scroll down to see a very pretty sailboat called the Kingston Lobster Boat. Originally Posted by rasorinc Scroll down to see a very pretty sailboat called the Kingston Lobster Boat.
Best, Stan I agree rosorinc that is a beautiful boat, and thanks for the post, I have a issues of the woodenboat magazine and they have a nice weekender in the latest issue.
Location: New Brunswick, Canada I really appreciate the input from everyone, it is reassuring that a boat build is in my future and to have the many folks here to pick their brains. I am relatively new to the entire nautical lifestyle, enjoyed a few boats in my youth, and enjoyed learning to sail and am so excited to get a build going! I hate to be the devil's advocate here, but building a boat is a big commitment in terms of time, money and effort. We have been sailing as the crew on the Allyance,(brother-in-law's) a 27ft Hunter, for a few summers now, and both my wife and I love it. I have the full support of my wife on the build (as long as the other regular house maintenace doesn't go slack LOL). I really liked a lot of the reasons behind the CLC Pocketship as detailed in the Woodenboat article and on the CLC website. I am now on my THIRD build and i know it sounds absolutely CRAZY that i started another small build in the middle of my big build, but what i learned this time around will save me MANY hours of time further down the line. The learning curve is endless and i can now absolutely prove it - that by building a small dinghy first, you do save time and money.
Extraordinary lengths were taken to make the boat completely airtight and impact-resistant. Using multiple layers of lightweight cloth has the same protective effect as using a heavier cloth, without obscuring the beauty and clarity of the finish.
The WEST SYSTEM epoxy prevents tangential movement in the wood by creating a 100% airtight and waterproof seal.
Of course, builder Steven Hirsh will always be ready to provide any necessary assistance for as long as you own the boat. The long and slender hollow in the bow enables the boat to part large waves and then gradually rise, reducing friction and pounding. Every inch of the boat reflects Steven Hirsha€™s commitment to optimal function and exceptional aesthetics. It is definately a Distin made in Saranac Lake, NY for only a couple of years in the late 1940's to 1951, and VERY rare!
As Brian (Crosbyboat) stated the steering wheel is a dead giveaway, you'll also notice the throttle in the center of the steering wheel. I have had contact from another Distin boat owner, his Distin is also in New Hampshire and has had a restoration job. 2007 issue of Adirondack Life magazine there was an article about Distin Boats, which were built in the Saranac Lake, NY area, which you might find interesting.


I have a little project going that might be appreciated around here - or, quite possibly, picked to pieces!. Really, there is nothing in my past to indicate I'm capable of doing such a thing, but, being a little bull-headed when it comes to looking things up like a responsible person would, I've just plowed ahead at pretty much full steam. I've actually got the entire haul planked over the frame (such as it is) and am now ready to do some finishing. I'll probably use some white ash as well, as I can get it locally in long lengths and for a good price. I'd done a very rough calculation (ignoring both the rake of the sides and the curve of the bottom) to determine the displacement. It is also misleading in that the actual boat is closer to 9 feet long, as that let me build without having to scarf any of the planks. All this will take a while, but I've started to think more seriously about how to finish the boat as well. Spar Varnish is regular varnish, but with more UV inhibitors, which makes it appear with a more amber glow on wood.
I know someone who has built several stitch and glue kit boats, and am familiar with the basic principles of epoxying a boat.
The most importantly - the boat will have to be small and beautiful, will have low weight that I can carry it on my car's roof. I've watched many boats images as shown on the internet and I have not bad joiner experience. For example i know Riva used to make wooden boats (now though are plastic if i am not wrong).
A 25 m wooden fishing boat is not such a 'rara avis', although quickly dissapearing from european waters.
To start, rot resistant woods were used throughout: old growth Western Red Cedar for the hull, New England white ash for the topsides, cypress for the mast and boom.
But he decided it would be much more dynamic to design a boat that seamlessly converts from a skiff to a sailing rig. What is her value restored against what she's going to cost to restore the hull, systems and replace the egine?
I'm a pretty heavy guy at around 210lb, but even with another passenger and a bit of lunch (plus the boat, which is pretty light) it should be OK in calm water.
Does this advise remain the same when using an electric trawling motor, or is it specific to rowing? Polyurethanes are generally superior to regular varnish in moisture protection (by a few percent), but are harder to repair or touch up when the time comes.
Regular varnish is a different animal and application is more of an art form, subject to lots of debate, technique and methods.
Building a current design with a growing fleet might be a cheaper option as the resale value will be better. Yet these three layers make for a nearly impenetrable seal, able to withstand millions of cycles of stress. His mastery is evident not only in the exceptional quality of the work, but by the fact that West has asked him to test new products for them. You might need to build a motor mount that is vertical or raked aft to get decent performance from the motor. I think I came up with about 600 lbs (so, you're pretty much right on the money there PARR - especially when you consider I ignored the fact the boat gets wider near the top). 600lb was the figure I came up with for how much weight (boat plus cargo) it would take to bring the waterline half way up the sides of the boat, not how much I projected the boat would weigh.
It has also been suggested to me that I use spar varnish, as it will go on a lot thinner, won't run so bad and setup quicker too. Andrews NB or Grand Manan, but for the most part as mentioned before mostly river sailing. I Rubbed the hull with epoxy resin, with six hand-help put fiberglass and dip the cloth by epoxy. The evolution to new markets, mainly going from commercial to pleasure, is the main solution. And now it's too late to correct boat hull problems because, sadly but the hull is finished. Very nervous job.Will need to apply extra two layers of fiberglass without for preparing to warnish.
Anyhow, there are markets regarding commercial fishing boats which wood has lost here almost without fighting; I'm talking about the small planning units up to 10 m length (more or less), which are actually built up in GRP or aluminium, but could also be done in wooden boards-epoxy as well.



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