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4 or 5 have been built and a few stretched versions are on the verge.This is the original at 12 ft long and 4 ft wide. Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada If you click on user CP you can see if anyone has docked you points.
12'x 4' though it would be a lot more stable at 5' or better in beam, though it's efficiency will drop quickly.
This shape will handle chop and passing powerboat wakes much better then the floating shoe boxes others seem to enjoy.
The design above will easily out perform any of the shanty boat, box boat or square micro cruiser thingies. Having said that i can once again assure you that you dont want to go that fast in a 12' x 4' (4m x 1.2m) boat.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
Location: Kingston, UK Just to clarify, I'm referring to the process of creating flat templates for the planks from the full scale line drawings. Sorry if these are stupid questions but I'm new to boatbuilding and no-one seems to be able to tell me exactly how the actual build process works. Location: Oriental, NC Gus, Here is a thread on another forum of a recent lapstrake build of mine.
Once I have finished designing a hull in the software, I use the feature that creates a cutting pattern for each panel.
Every time I've designed a boat in my software and used its patterns like this, the results have been practically perfect. To lap the strakes I would simply cut them an inch or two wider than the patterns illustrate, depending upon how much I want them to overlap.
I did not know if you had actually done this to completion of a clinker boat from a computer program before.
If I try lapping the panels I will probably still use pre-cut plywood strakes and epoxy filler instead of bevels at the joints.
Or I can put more time and effort into computer modeling and come up with precise patterns specifically for lapped strake construction. One of my concepts for the construction of a light weight lapped strake boat is to use thin plywood strakes, perhaps only 4mm or 5mm. John Welsford designs boats with stringers installed first on bulkheads and frames, then his strakes are 'cut to fit' on top of the stringers, each one beveled to the next, with the stringers visible inside the hull.
I would set up the bulkheads and frames on a strongback or on the keel if the boat has one, then alternate the installation of strakes and stringers -- install a strake first, then a stringer, then another strake, then another stringer, etc. In this type of construction the hull should be as self-fairing as in a strip planked boat. Granted this is only a concept at the moment, but I can see no reason why it won't work, although I'm sure I will discover some issues the first time I try it. If a boat has no need for frames for strength, I see no reason to ever include them in its construction.
Boats like Welsford's use few strakes and tend to show a thick lap at the turn of the bilge caused by the small radius there and thinner laps elsewhere.
These are a collection of examples of some of the projects I have completed over the course of my degree, Bachelor Of Design 1st Class Hons. The idea of using solar and human power to drive vehicles is nothing new but each new design that applies these principles is at least a step in the right direction – away from fossil fuels. Perhaps the best part about these designs is that they push the boundaries of current thinking and appropriate green technologies for seemingly everyday uses.
I am not sure how practical this designs are, I mean – is the solar power is ebough to run the boat?
Don't forget you would charge it up before you went out as well so you could get most of your traveling done without sun or pedals. Cand aveti nevoie de o masina de inchiriat de la oricare din cele doua aeroporturi (Baneasa sau Otopeni) apelati cu incredere la Rentacarfirst ce va pune la dispozitie cele mai bune oferte pentru inchirieri auto baneasa. Location: Western Massachusetts Design for a Cardboard Boat Race Hi All! A sit-on kayak or surfboard style design made up of multiple laminations of cardboard with the center portion cut out of the upper layers to make a seating area for use with a kayak paddle.
As creativity and style may also help determine the winner, any crazy (yet doable) ideas out there?
4'x8' sheets of double corregated cardboard are typically available at cardboard supply houses. I know 4'x12' sheets of heavier construction double corregated are available, but must be ordered ahead of time, atleast around where I live. I (and it's only my person feelings) think this looks like the best little single-sheet boat around. Guest625101138 Previous Member   If you want to go fast the best boat will be long and slender. I would look at a central cylinder about 8ft long and 1ft in diameter with cones of similar length to form the bow and stern. The overall underwater form would not be a lot different to a rowing scull and it should go reasonably well. Location: Western Massachusetts Thanks to all for your well-informed replies. How would you fashion the conical ends to keep them watertight and how would I gain access to the inside of the main tube to fasten the ends to it?
I like the idea of the outriggers for stability but how far apart would they need to be to allow clearance for the paddle? If the cardboard wants to crease then place gentle longitudinal creases at about 2" spacing rather than letting it crease uncontrollably.
It really is better to make say a 4ft model out of light cardboard to understand the detail. THis boat will be fully sealed internally so should not get wet inside until the outside gives up. Just because it is cardboard does not mean it cannot be well made and perform as good as a paddled rowing scull. Guest625101138 Previous Member   The seat will ned to be away from the cross-brace to allow full strokes.
Guest625101138 Previous Member   The attached shows a cylinder and cone hull made from aluminium. A tail and dorsal fin behind the paddler might complete the picture as riding a menacing looking shark.
It would be handy to know if there are other people interested in taking the event seriously. Our driftboat designs are the most-advanced available, yet specially intended for first-timers.
We detail hull assembly over three temporary forms (much like frames) made from any type of plywood of specified thickness, plus the wood-framed plywood transom (stern) and stem (bow member) cut from a 2" x 6" - both of which stay in the boat.
Paddlinglight is publishing a series of digitised plans for building cedar strip versions of well known traditional kayaks and canoes. Italians race development class of boats limited only by sail area and length limited by the standard (in Italy) 3.1m sheet of ply. Free plans for a very simple 14ft stitch and glue skiff drawn by myself (Gavin Atkin) and named after my mother.


Free plans for a very simple 12ft stitch and glue skiff drawn by myself (Gavin Atkin) and named after my daughter, Ella. An easy to build light-weight 15ft 6in rower suitable for use on lakes and rivers, perhaps for exercise rowing but also usable for picnics on the river, fishing and the rest. Plans for two boats - one extraordinarily beautiful, the other an extraordinarily eccentric racer.
A nicely-built example of my Cinderella canoe, adapted for rowing with some neat outriggers made from ply.
Free designs for a very sweet ply camp-cruiser for one, or a cat-rigged sailing dinghy for more. Not really about free boat designs - though there might be some later - but a new blog about boat restoratons, traditional boatbuilding, and traditionally-derived boats. Try our customised Google search designed to eliminated all the irrelevant junk you sometimes get! A little open-canoe for paddle-savvy kids who love the water, and aren't nervous in a tippy boat!
I like this one from an old American magazine - built with some of the right period details, it could be a real head-turner. Square Metre Sharpie - one of the more obvious European developments from the North American sharpie working boats. After all the hard work and an inferior crappy hull and forking out all your $$$ for the plans , the book, the video then the material then the Brent then The joiner and all the rest of the things that make a boat and you sell it for what !!!
Except when it comes to trying to get out of the BS and into something better, then the problem is very visible. Now here's another torture test, it's a ULDB class 40, washed up half buried pounded away on the beach every high tide till it was pulled off.
I am not a pro welder by any means, but I am embarrased any time I weld something and it doens't look like a roll of dimes laid on its side. I am a Physicist by education, and it absolutely blows my mind at how even in the engineering world there is often a lacking of fundamental knowledge, but you take the cake brother. The 2 advantages I see for the origami method are first, you can get by with some very sloppy layout and fitup. The second advantage is, if you're working in the open with limited time available, it would seem possible to get the hull weathertight faster than a framed boat. The downside is that it's going to take longer to fit the interior and, as per plans, you end up with a heavier and structurally inferior boat for the same displacement. Maybe the steel industry should stop x-raying welds,when there are people who can tell the exact tensile strength of a weld , not by simply looking at the weld , but by looking at a photo of it.
I hads a freind who was buildig a framelesCowichan bay and puled together a 36 foot hull, decks , wheelhouse, cockpit, keel, rudder and skeg. Most sell for around $65,000 to $75,000, several times what they cost their owners to build.. There is a Robets 35 in Sechelt which looks like a bucket which got caught in a buffalo stampede. Also funny how a lot of these 36s seem to end up with big dents in them, could do with some frames Frames make dents far more likely, by giving the plate a hard point to stretch against. Originally Posted by Brent Swain So how reliable are calculations by someone with a mental affliction like ADD? I assure you the really good naval architects(*) have much higher percentage of ADD than the average population. Originally Posted by Brent Swain Frames make dents far more likely, by giving the plate a hard point to stretch against.
Ok take another bit a little bit bigger than the coffee cup diameter form it maybe with a spoon or a finger until it's got a nice curvature dome shape. Originally Posted by Brent Swain I wonder how that boat would make out T-boning a steel barge at 8 knots. Your boats dent real easy where thos amazing phenominally strong conic sections and magic longitudinals are, That's the point of the other pics.
And yes, I do not like it, and I think every opportunity should be given them to start behaving. Location: South Africa Magwas, I hear what you say, but lets be honest about things.
Many NA's engineers, fellow boat builders etc have tried to reason with BS in a very civilized over the years - and in this post - but made off as idiots by BS.
One of our most valuable and knowledgeable members, MikeJohns, a qualified structural engineer, has been very professional and patient with BS, trying to correct and reason with him to no avail, but to get shunned with bull **** from BS.
In fact, on many occasions he offered to do a structural analysis worth many $$$ for free and was made a fool by BS. Even patient and well mannered people get on the negative after being rude to by someone and then just return the favour to sender. Originally Posted by Wynand N Even patient and well mannered people get on the negative after being rude to by someone and then just return the favour to sender.
You would have to reshape the bottom which would preclude planing with a motor so you would be stuck maxing out at about 5 or 6 mph. It looks like a boat, it has full standing headroom, requires very modest power and will leave a clean, unmolested wake. You will soon see that you want to cruise comfortably with sitting head room under the cabin roof to escape the sun.
It takes more time and effort to go for this much detail in the software because each lap must be modeled individually, but it can be done.
One could envision a small fleet of these replacing rent-a-boats at various tourist destinations around the world. The solar and pedal option just extends the range to as far as your feet and the sun will let you! Rentacarfirst are cel mai diversificat portofoliu de masini cu reviziile la zi si va asteapta sa va bucurati de experienta inchirierii unei masini. The edges of the laminated cardboard could be sealed using white glue (exterior if possible) covered by a wide strip of suitable tape (what kind would be best?). I guess my original idea was bad in that it would have several long edges of the cardboard (although taped) below the waterline. So I would sit atop the central tube facing forward with my feet held above the water in rope stirrups? It will be better to form the cylinder in its preferred direction of folding but with the cones you will have to work a little across the corrugations. Rick, could you do a quick sketch to demonstrate the relationship of the parts with the tabs? They feature frame-free hulls (no ribs!) based on modern stress-skin engineering principles for faster, easier construction & reduced weight. Our hulls are designed for quick response to oar inputs, have exceptional stability, are dry running, and come in a wide variety of sizes to suit most any river fishing or whitewater river-running condition. We call all these the "backbone" members, and include FULL SIZE PATTERNS for their contours so you can make them easily and without error (plans & instructions show you how). Hulls are built upside-down over the backbone members which are set up on a simple jig made from a few ordinary 2" x 4" members as fully detailed on the plans. The website's in Italian, but has lots of pictures and best of all one of the builders and racers has published plans for their boat - and it's a lot like a large sailing Mouse, such as the Eek. Most are in the UK, but we will include some US material, not least because the author is an enthusiast for American boat types.


If it doesn't look like that, hell even if there is a hint of bubbles or incomplete fusion I grind down past the base metal and make sure to put enough heat in there to get fusion. Frankly I am surprised none of your boats have capsized with all hands lost as the boat tears an unsupported seam. Not only are you ignorant, you praise your ignorance and deride, insult, and attack knowledge basis that aren't questionable.
Support the mast off the chines and you have twice the strength of supporting it off the centreline, as there are two chines , but only one centreline. You'll never get a really nice looking weld appearance from those, they're an all position deep penetration fast-freeze rod, cellulose flux.
They are far more forgiving of welding conditions than any other rod , but due to their quick freeze up rate , leave a rougher looking finish. Then I wend back to Sidney to visit him agfainn and he ad the shed built and wa starting on the ouside frames. The more you pend on a boat the narrower the gap betwen what you can get for her and what you spent on her in the first place, until spending more becomes a money losing proposition.
Once I have sold someone the plans, I have no control over how they put it together or what standard of workmanship they use or don't use. Doesn't look anything like the surf in the photo of the brent boat on the beach, and deep water looks a whole lot closer. Should anyone trust a design drawn by someone with a mental disorder like ADD or a dyslexic? A well-compensated ADD can comprehend much more than an average person, work as fast as lightning while double and triple checking every calculation more thoroughly than you could imagine. This kind of accident would of been reported to Transport Canada, could you provide a link to the incident report, location,time, and year it happen. I guess 45 ft would fall into the category of which Brent tells us is within the realm of origami, and others say it isn't. Still, you get to toss out the pricey gas costs associated with most water cruisers and relax in the sun when the weather is nice and pedal your way to shore when it isn’t. Sufficient power storage is a must so that pedaling is kept to a minimum and done only in emergencies.
I thought of using the kayak paddle as it on hand and I thought it would be simpler than trying to fabricate oarlocks that would be sturdy enough to last. One of my main concerns would be how to fasten it together; staples wouldn't be much good unless I had access to the back side to clench them. Yet with our integral side trays, bow, and stern compartments with decks, strength and stiffness are superior!
Plans show adjustable, removable seats for perfect load balance, side trays, knee locks, and the option of an outboard motor up to 10 HP. You can use either a good grade of Exterior or full Marine grade plywood panels in any case.
A few longitudinal members (straight wood "sticks" if you will) are added to back the joints and stiffen the hull - these can be bought in most any lumberyard to size. It's been going on for years apparently, but I've only just learned about it from Frank Baldry of the UK HBBR.
Brent is quite correct in saying that there's a lot less welding to do on the hull plating, too.
Structurally, they're great and there's minimal chance of slag inclusions because the slag is in essence burnt paper. He now builds his Foulkes 39's the same way, with white plastic thu hulls you can snap of with the palm of your hand, fuel tank vents in the topsides, where they go under water when the boat heels.
I would be happy to draw a basic hull of that size, and I guess we should give Brent the opportunity to replace it with his own drawing.
Within the first few posts of your proposed thread he will be on board again with a repeat of his posts here, regardless of the rules you will lay down. Say if you were looking at her from the side, she would look like her bow is flat (like your design) but on my design, her bow come to an edge and you can see that looking from the top. It's a fine arrangement if you're needs require the few things they actual offer, but your needs aren't as suited to a mud motor as you might think. But in order to win the overall prize I need to get creative with the above waterline shape and graphics. All plans also include FULL-SIZE PATTERNS for hull-forming backbone members (*) - NO LOFTING OR LAYOUTS REQUIRED! Fairing (hand-beveling for fit) is mostly unnecessary since bevels can largely be pre-sawn. In fact if you look at the MOM photos you'll see a lot of tabs welded to the hull because there's nowhere to attach the interior. I never use anything else for my root runs but the rods have become uncommon, at least around here, and I need to get my local welding shop to special-order the 2.5mm ones I use.
Then I sailed to Sidney again and the builder of the Van de Stadt had only the hull plates in place, but hadnt weld d them yet.
I could easily post abortions of Mike's designs, built by inmcompetent amateurs ,but they haven't been sailing this far from Tazzy. There's plenty of other totally oblivious people wandering aimlessly around this planet for them to run into who'll listen. So this series of bulkheads make up a frame that has folded gluing tabs to bond to the skin. Tomorrow I will look for cardboard and contact ROCK 102 and the local Miller Distributor for decals or stickers. And the resulting clean interiors of our boats mean less maintenance, fewer casting snags, and a neater, longer-lasting boat. In addition, we include easy-to-follow instructions especially for beginners, material listings, and fastening schedules - NOTHING IS LEFT TO CHANCE! Plywood panels are next laid onto this framework, marked around their perimeters, cut to shape, then glued and screwed back in place. They were all added after the hull was pulled together and not included in Brent's time line. Wynand is using a MIG welder and in his hands, he's getting results that make me envious, with undoubtedly a huge time saving. Although construction time will vary depending on a builder’s tools, experience, and conditions, reports over the years indicate that 100 man-hours is a reasonable "ball-park" approximation of required building time for most.
With a framed boat, the frames are where you attach transverse bulkheads and from those you attach the longitudinal structures for berths, settees etc. Mine are known around the world , none of the self proclaimed Expert designers here have had any of their designs show up in this area. I pre-drilled all my frames with 7mm holes on 100mm centres while the individual frame segments could be placed under the drill press so I shouldn't need to drill many holes when I get to the interior. I plan on swapping to MIG when I start on my hull plate and I'll be doing a lot of trial runs on scrap before I do the plate. Sure it took time but drilling holes by hand inside the shell in limited space takes a lot longer.



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