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Once the glue is dry, trim excess material and start shaping the rudder to a symmetric aerofoil shape. The shaft tube is a piece of brass tube that the rudder shaft slip fits into - typically sold right next to the brass rod used for the shaft. I then lay the hull down on the table (stern facing me) and place a piece of extra rod left over from the rudder into the tube. I have chosen Stern Wheel drive, as I like the idea and they are great for shallow draught, Power Plant will be a small Diesel and full Hydrauic drive. Any help, plans, advise or experience you have that you think would help would be greatly appreciated. If you'd like I'll draw up a set of wheels and toss in a couple of smoke stacks on this design of mine. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
Viking ShipsArguably the greatest achievement of the Vikings was their boat and shipbuilding.
At the right side of the ship near the back is a large paddle tied to the hull for steering. Solid Block Method - Part Three.Model boat hull construction a€“ Tips on solid block ship carving and fitting. Many modern vessels built from steel dona€™t have a protruding stem and sometimes no external keel either. This illustration shows HMS Bounty of the famous mutiny with the stem, sternpost, keel and rudder pointed out. If the boat you are building is constructed this way, it's easiest to fit it before the sternpost and keel goes on. Trim the inside (where it mates with the hull) of the stem close to the tracing you did from the plans. It may not be totally "scale" but a lot stronger than relying on the joint between rudder and skeg. This is a simple semi-scale Balsa model based on the Selway Fisher 4m Mini Yacht which can be seen on the Selway Fisher Design site. Simple sheet Balsa wood is used and all the necessary shapes are given on the drawing full-size.
The model plans consist of one A1 sheet giving full-size shapes for the Balsa construction plus twelve A4 sheets giving a photo sequence and instructions for the model's construction and fit-out. To order using a Credit or Debit card with our secure on-line ordering system simply use the buttons below 1 post and packing charges which will be added at the above rates, or less for multiple orders. Those wanting to order using cash, cheque, postal order or Paypal please go to the How to Order page for more details. Specifically, this is how I made the rudder for the RC Cabin Cruiser plans that I offer, but the concept as a whole can just as easily be adapted to almost any "recreational" RC boat.

After letting it dry for a while I sanded with finer and finer grit sandpaper down to a 220. The tube must be long enough to extend a short distance above the anticipated water line.I typically purposely drill the hole in the hull too small. We want to retire this year and spend some time exploring our waterways on the East coast of Australia.
My company builds small earthmoving machines which are fully Hydraulic operated so I am in a field I am well conversant with as I do most of the design work, Scow Hull so I can place my Black water and Drinking Water tanks below the deck as well as utilise all the blow deck storage space. This is the 33' model and is intended for voyaging in semi protected waters reasonably efficiently.
In practice this is quite useful as it gives each crew member a space for personal equipment which can be moved about when needed. In the same way, many planning hulls (think PT boats and MTBa€™s) dona€™t have a sternpost. From your plan, trace the shape of the stem and skeg onto thin wood, plywood or material of choice with the correct thickness.
Cut out the rudder contour and trim the post to a rounded shape that fits into a hole drilled where the rudder post would enter the hull.Make the rudder contour separate and glue with epoxy onto a dowel.
The Balsa centre girder is made up and the bulkheads slotted and glued in place followed by the chine stringers before the sheet balsa plank is glued to the framework.
If using Cereal box, sanding it down to the darker and courser fibers makes the board easier to seal as it is more absorbent. This construction is both strong and flexible, qualities necessary for ocean going vessels.
Then trim the hull to accept the stem.Glue the stem and sternpost in place a€“ one at a time. The best way to attach the rudder is to make sure the rudder post is extended and glued into a hole drilled in the hull. After letting the epoxy cure, follow the same method as above.Non-working gudgeons and pintles (or "hinges" in layman's terms) can be created with brass strips cut to size. The shaft will center automatically on the rudder if its diameter is the same as the thickness of the rudder core. Also note the chamfer on the inside corner of the cut to relieve the radius of the bent rod.The channel doesn't have to be super tight. In the picture below I secured the shaft onto the core with a couple of drops of CA glue while shimming the upper end of the shaft with another piece of the Cereal box. The fit to the tube doesn't have to be snug, but it makes things easier if it is tight enough to stay where you put it even when you turn and tilt the hull. The cabins are straight sided, the hull plywood, the framing dimensional stock (2x6's, etc.). As I was reading it I thought with the weights he was talking about, it would never work and would sink, but it turns out exactly like he planned and works great.

Then cut them out with some room to spare, especially the sternpost I like to leave slightly longer so I can trim it back once it is glued on.Prep the model boat hull a€“ at the stern, where the sternpost goes, make sure the hull has a flat and straight area to attach it to. Start with 80 grit and work through 150, and finish with 240 grit.If you took off too much at any point, your efforts may still be salvageable. On small scale models a brass wire can be carefully flattened into strips using a hammer against a hard, flat surface. Most important is that the skins that will sandwich the core on either side will lay flush without the wire poking at it. I had grown up sailing a sunfish and bought it hoping I would use it a lot at the lake in Mashpee Massachusetts summer cottage where it has been stored.
My main reason for using a mono hull was to put the water tanks below deck and centre them for balance. The missing material can be restored by building up it back up with putty.There are many kinds of putty - my favorite is the epoxy version that comes as a bar with one part as a core inside the other. By bending and soldering bent strips and wires a simulated hinge can be created.The metal strips hinges can be attached to the hull and rudder with epoxy or CA glue. As can be seen, the shaft has a 90-degree bend in it to prevent the shaft from loosening and turning the rudder into a pendant. Yep and they don't swim to well either so all the more reason to make sure this thing stays afloat.
I line up the piece a€“ when Ia€™m happy with the location I put a small dab of glue on while I hold it steadily in place, letting the glue wick into the wood.Once cured, I let off the pressure and let it sit for a half hour or so. Fortunately my wife has medals for her prowess in the pool so we are all relying on her to get us through this, un-drowned. The joint can be easily filled in with putty before final sanding.Some hulls need what is termed a skeg. Then I inspect, if Ia€™m happy with the result Ia€™ll put some more glue on, along the entire joint. The two parts have different colors, so when the mixture no longer is marbelized you're done and ready to use it. Let dry fully and scrape and sand off the excess glue.Once the stem and sternpost are in place, ita€™s time for the keel. Then trim back the sternpost to be level with the ridge of the hull where the keel will go.If necessary, prep the hull to be flat in this area.

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