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I've been experimenting with using a high temperature, two part silicone as the mold material.
Location: New York Is this the stuff that is used to cast a wax pattern that is then used in ?lost wax casting? in green sand?
Originally Posted by Robert Gainer Is this the stuff that is used to cast a wax pattern that is then used in ?lost wax casting? in green sand? I've carved a male pattern, from wood, to a shape which feels nice and should pop out nicely from the mold.
Location: California Save you some time Well as you know, I am sure, Lead BEGINS to melt at 620 F. Originally Posted by SplineWeights Well as you know, I am sure, Lead BEGINS to melt at 620 F. I tried using some of the one part high temperature RTV stuff, which cures on exposure to the moisture in air. Location: New York When I was a teenager and could not purchase ducks (no money) I made a pattern from wood and then made a mold from plaster of paris.
As far as I know the only silicone that is used in casting is to make a mold for wax copies that are then used in the lost wax process. Originally Posted by Robert Gainer When I was a teenager and could not purchase ducks (no money) Same thing, i pored lead into tuna cans, drove in a nail through the side.


Made my own scuba weights the same way, bolt on type, but then started with plaster molds to get a nice copy of one I bought.
Location: New York Just wondering if the production is up and running and if I can make a purchase. You can definitely start with only 6 spline weights and gradually acquire more weights later. If you end up doing a lot of manual lines fairing the ideal number of spline weights is 12; though, I actually have 18 spline weights. In Westlawn all is clearly explained in detail and they have 2 blueprint for making your own cheaply but I dont think I have permission to post does two attachment sorry.
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It would hold up for five or six pours and then I would make a new mold from the wood pattern.
You need green sand to pack around the wax master and then all you do is add a hole to the green sand for adding the lead and a second hole to let out the air and steam. These days, however, I no longer need more than 12, as large hand-faired drawings?are now done, instead, in a hull-fairing program.


You can pour begining at around 700F but the results arent pretty on a consistent basis Well, that's why I say we'll see how it all turns out. The only problem I found was that you needed to dry the plaster mold in an oven or the molten lead would make so much steam that the mold would break when you did the first pour.
Every single painted spline weight I?ve worked with eventually had the paint chip and wear off. In fact, you can usually use a couple of heavy books, or mugs or cups filled with scrap bolts, or similar, at the spline's ends to make up 2 extra weights?effectively 8. See the Student Guide 2nd Edition, Section 9, starting on page 125 (particularly the bottom of page 127). Shifing some weights around to draw a complete line will also effectively increase the number of weghts; a passable work-around.



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