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Most residential duct systems have numerous leaks that waste energy and lead to room-to-room pressure imbalances.
Since common hardware-store duct tape — technically known as cloth-backed rubber-adhesive duct tape — fails quickly when used on ducts, most energy-conscious builders seal duct joints with mastic. At least four different types of tape have met the UL 181B standard, including some cloth-backed rubber-adhesive duct tapes, foil-backed tapes with acrylic adhesive, oriented polypropylene (OPP) tapes, and foil-backed butyl tapes.
For sealing the inner core of flex duct to metal collars, as well as to repair the outer jacket of flex duct, many contractors have begun using oriented polypropylene (OPP) tape. At least three manufacturers make UL 181B-FX listed polypropylene duct tape: Intertape Polymer Group (manufacturer of AC698 tape), Shurtape Technologies (manufacturer of DC-181 tape), and Berry Plastics (manufacturer of FlexFix tape). As long as joints sealed with OPP tape are clamped, it will probably perform better than cloth duct tape. Hardcast, the manufacturer of Versi-Grip 181 duct mastic, sells several types of butyl duct tape; one of them, Foil-Grip 1402, has a UL 181B listing.
Foil-Grip 1402 consists of 12 mils of butyl adhesive (similar to the adhesive used in some flexible window flashings) with a 2-mil aluminum-foil top layer. Berry Plastics sells a butyl-adhesive duct tape under two different brands (Nashua and Polyken). Like OPP tape manufacturers, butyl tape manufacturers want to differentiate their product from duct tape. Since all duct-sealing products, including mastic and all types of duct tape, have disadvantages, deciding on the best duct-sealing strategy is tricky.
One of mastic’s chief advantages is that, unlike some tapes, it performs well without clamping. Most installers don’t bother to clean their joints before applying a sealant, and Davis feels that mastic holds up better under the circumstances.
High quality duct tape — not mastic — should be used to seal holes in a furnace or air handler. Duct seams need to be mechanically fastened (using sheet-metal screws for galvanized ducts and compression straps for flex duct) before being sealed. To secure seams in round galvanized ducts up to 12 inches in diameter, use at least three #8 screws per joint.
Seal the joint between the inner section of duct and the fitting with high-quality duct tape or mastic. Conveying the need to use the right product at the right location has been a frustration of mine for a long time. Brad Turner of Southface Energy Institute likes to encourage that mastic be placed "thick as a nickel". I had a "devil of a time" opening my evaporator for inspection and servicing after my HVAC guy placed mastic on the access panel. After I spoke with Roger Terry on the phone, I clarified his point: If you choose to use mastic to seal the seams of fiberglass board ductwork, you cannot meet UL 181 requirements unless you use fiberglass mesh tape along with the mastic. One detail that I'm not 100% confident about though is sealing the foam board to the concrete stem wall.
Although you are posting your question on a blog about duct mastic and duct tape, it seems that your question refers to another blog. You can try all the usual remedies for drying the soil around a house -- improve the grade of the soil around your house so it has a slope away from your foundation; install gutters and conductor pipe that carries roof runoff away from your house -- but these measures are unlikely to solve your problem. Once you install Sto Mesh and Gold Fill over your sheathing seams, you have an air barrier. However, if you prefer to use housewrap as your WRB, I can't imagine there is any reason you couldn't just use the Sto Mesh and Gold Fill to cover cracks and create an air barrier at the sheathing plane. I rebuilt the entire ductwork system Using dlp mastic Along with screws and pop rivets after disassembling the entire system in order to clean out the fiberglass dust and that was drawn in due toi the gaps and links. If your indoor air is too dry, it is usually an indication that your home is very leaky and would benefit from air sealing work. As I recall, UL 181 foil faced tape was rated as a sealant only when applied on duct board with an iron and squeegeed. These are sections of galvanized steel ductwork with built-in EPDM O-rings for sealed seams.
Others have used that technique, especially for the lengthwise lock-joints in round galvanized ductwork.
The article above addresses your question: "High quality duct tape — not mastic — should be used to seal holes in a furnace or air handler. My questions are : I had my brothers friend who does hvac work for a living tell me how to run flex duct in the attic unconditioned space.
The issues I have is with the drywall that was cut - I painted it at the time worried about drywall leaching into the air. 1.] Can I use a water based mastic on the inside of the boot and cut drywall where they meet?
A.] Will the mastic cause any vapors that could be harmful because I am applying it from the inside? 2.] Should I tape and use mastic on the outside of the boot and drywall on the upper part of the ceiling? 3.] Should I make some type of fastening system better them 2 screws holding the boot to the register? 4.] I will use insulation on the exposed part of the boot - What is the best way to insulate the FLEX DUCT?
6.] I don’t think I can get the flex ducts into conditioned space unless I made another small knee wall and insulated that then.
7.] I had to remove some of the attic ceiling drywall because of an old roof leak and the attic furnace plenum runs along the top of the rafters not insulated no sign of tape or insulation and must of been that way for the last 50 years. I have gable vents on each side of the capecod style house and soffits along both sides plus a ridge vent. It's hard for me to visualize the air leaks you describe where the register boot meets the drywall. If your insulated flex duct has an intact vinyl sleeve, it's save to bury the ductwork in insulation.
Should I remove the 2 register screws and caulk the lip - What caulk would you use - Water base I assume.

Should I caulk the lip on the underside and stick it to the top of the drywall and screw the register back in. If you remove the ceiling register, you may be able to caulk this crack from below by reaching into the register boot.
Otherwise, there's no reason you can't seal the crack from the attic using canned spray foam. Since you have no evidence of any asbestos in your plaster, I wouldn't worry about drywall "leaching" into the air. One last question: I also have Ductwork for the Attic Space that was converted to livable space. I also ran into this Black insulation that felt like plastic - Balsam - Wool - if I could contribute anything is this link which Balsam-Wool is not asbestos and has a picture if you ever run into it. I can do Electrical, Computer Networking, Plumbing, Drywall Finish, Tile, Other Flooring and Framing. There are lots of unknowns in HVAC and Longevity because of Air flow but I think some people have a good handle on it.
Could you advise whether the fiberglass mesh tape or "scrim" is the same as fiberglass joint compound tape? I'm planning to seal all of the ducts in my house, which the HVAC guys said is 100% fiberglass board butted together and connected with foil backed tape.
Hi, We are getting a bit tired of the annual application of mastic to our exposed metal round ducts. Read what I wrote: "Foil-Grip 1402 consists of 12 mils of butyl adhesive (similar to the adhesive used in some flexible window flashings) with a 2-mil aluminum-foil top layer.
Are the drawbands for sealing flexible duct joints anything different than plastic cable ties that I can buy anywhere? In a conditioned area, assuming reasonable ductwork standards, sealing this is a waste of time, energy and resources. If I'm building a "Green Home", there will be no ductwork in an unconditioned space to begin with and therefore I don't need any sealant at all. You can call it old school if you want, but your building code official has another name for it: a code violation. I understand the argument in favor of skipping mastic on ductwork located within the conditioned space.
Moreover, leaky ducts may result in distant rooms getting less airflow than the duct designer intended.
I would recommend using a ZipTie tool which will tighten the strap much tighter than hand tightening.
As far as I know, if you want to repair this problem from below, you will have to make an access hole in the plaster sealing. Martin Holladay has worked as a plumbing wholesale counterperson, roofer, remodeler, and builder.
The world's #1 website for helping you, the consumer, repair and understand your manufactured home.
Other options are to place a small fence about 12 inches away from the skirting, so she can lean into it.
As a former owner of a real beauty ( Siberian) for 14 years, I can tell you that they love to dig, destroy and obviously move siding!
Lowes has a small 3 foot aluminum fence available that's both decorative and you don't need footers to install. She had dug 2 holes in the back of the house where there is sand and likes to lay there when the sand is wet. Above in the ARTICLES link is a good write up from Mark on installing the metal skirting, I believe it is titled Monster skirting. Wondering if you put a stone border the entire way around the home and come out about a foot or foot and a half if maybe she wouldn't not like to lay there any more and find some other place to nap. For years we had a problem with the neighbor's dog busting through our vinyl skirting to hide under our MH every time the storms or gunshots got a little too close for her comfort. The Body Mounts came in, so I thought I'd get some paint on them while I'm waiting on the floor sections. Unfortunately, though, few building inspectors outside of California bother to enforce existing code requirements that residential duct seams be sealed with mastic or high-quality duct tape.
Mastic is a gooey, non-hardening material with a consistency between mayonnaise and smooth peanut butter.
The mastic is spread over duct seams with a disposable paintbrush, putty knife, or your fingers. If you're using mastic to seal seams in fiberglass board ductwork, use fiberglass mesh tape for all joints. Unfortunately, according to tests performed at Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory by Max Sherman and Iain Walker, a UL 181 listing is no guarantee that a tape will last any longer than unlisted cloth duct tape.
At least two new types of duct tape — butyl duct tape and oriented polypropylene (or OPP) duct tape — may offer better performance than cloth duct tape, without the messiness of mastic.
Chuck Murray, an Energy Specialist with the Washington State University Energy Program, sees no reason to abandon mastic. Yet mastic manufacturers, like duct tape manufacturers, generally require joints to be clean. The fitting should be attached to the inner sleeve of the flex duct with a drawband (clamp) or #8 screws.
The sheathing will be flush with the stem wall allowing the foam to extend below the point where the wall meets the mud sill. In addition, I would air seal all of the following cracks: between the concrete and the mudsill (with sill seal), between the mudsill and the rim joist (with a gasket or caulk), between the rim joist and the subfloor (with construction adhesive or caulk), and between the subfloor and the bottom plate (with a gasket or caulk).
Someone must have thought (a few decades ago) that installing ducts under slabs was a great idea; experience has taught us that it wasn't, and homes are no longer built that way. That means that either new ducts need to be installed in interior chases or your attic, or you need to install a boiler and baseboard radiation. Sto makes two products -- a mesh tape + "gooey stuff" -- designed to seal air leaks in sheathing seams.
In many cases, installing a humidifier in a leaky house just makes things worse (and in some cases leads to major mold or rot problems).

Unfortunately, I have come across some red mastic which is designed for commercial use; the redstuff is petroleum based and should be avoided. It makes perfect sense and demonstrates that it's the little things that can make a difference.
But I'm skeptical about the longevity of the seal when you use caulk at the seams between sections of duct.
The HVAC guy had me cut the boot to make a lip on four sides that laid on top of the ceiling drywall so that the register could then screw into it. I will have to take down the attic ceiling drywall to address that plenum - Mastic will work good there but insulation again in an unconditioned space.
If the register screws to the lip on the boot, the sheet-metal screws should pull everything together. If you are the kind of person who worries a lot, you can always send a sample of your plaster to a lab for testing. As new products are available and things get greener we will all have better air quality and a healthier enviorment. Hardcast recommends Foil-Grip butyl tape for use with galvanized steel duct, duct board, or flex duct. If the house is very well insulated and has an airtight thermal envelope, unsealed ductwork can work.
At that point the duct can be attached to the boot, and the seam properly sealed, before the ceiling is repaired. He built his first passive solar house in northern Vermont in 1974, and has lived off the grid since 1975. If your dog is doing that in combination with leaning, you can put a small sandbox in and moisten it. You could do a quick google to Lowe's or Home Depot and see what it cost a sheet compared to vinyl skirting packages. Duct joints should always be secured with #8 sheet-metal screws before seams are sealed with mastic.
The tape consists of a butyl adhesive on a polyethylene-coated cloth backing; it has a UL 181 BFX listing for use with flex duct. If it's sealed tight, then there is no need to seal the sheathing to the framing, the drywall to the framing, etc. Alternatively, many of these air leaks can be addressed from the interior with spray polyurethane foam. If you want a WRB, it makes sense to continue with the next step suggested by Sto, and cover the entire exterior wall with Sto Gold Coat or Sto EmeraldCoat.
If yours are different, you may need to replace the boots or seal the gaps with canned spray foam, mastic, or tape. However, as long as your plaster isn't "friable" and flaking into particles or dust, I wouldn't worry. It is run through the very top peak of the house which is about 1.5 ft from the vent ridge.
The ducts are also completely wrapped in that silver bubble wrap insulation as well, so plan to cut off a section, use the mastic, wait for it to dry then wrap with the original bubble wrap stuff.
But if the thermal envelope is leaky, duct leakage can pressurize joist bays and send conditioned air outdoors through envelope cracks, or can pull in outdoor air via the same mechanism. In 1980, Holladay bought his first photovoltaic(PV) Generation of electricity directly from sunlight. It is the spots on the grass that she pushes the skirt in knocking it out of the bottom track and laying where ever she likes. Since you live in Utah, right next to me in Nevada, why not use some course, large gravel in that area. We tried alot of quick fixes but she always managed to bust through until FINALLY, we come up with 2 ideas and tried them both. As well, I think the time it'd take to separate what I need will be about the same as forming new pieces. The butyl tapes have much more adhesive on them, so they will take longer to dry out and will stay flexible longer. I filled all the ducts up with cement but if you do don’t fill them up to the top of the flooring like where the tile is. It has been three years and the tape holds on the main trunks but where the boots meet the ceiling is the issue. Could I bury them in batting insulation as there is some loose insulation that comes up to the top of the ceiling rafters - joists - 2x6 rafters 16" on center. I was not told to do this but it was an instance where I had to rely on someone else for information at the time.
A photovoltaic cell has no moving parts; electrons are energized by sunlight and result in current flow. We're going to do a blower door test after the foam is applied and sealed and then again after the dense-pack cellulose and drywall is installed just to see how much difference the dense-pack cellulose makes in air movement. It currently has sheet metal screws securing it closed, but hot air leaks at the seams of this door. My son helped me and good thing I caught it because I would be slowly chiseling it out today.
There is a barrier so the insulation does not get into the soffits but any more loose fill could over flow where batting would not fall into the soffits. My daughter moved out recently which gave me time to inspect the up stairs which is a finished attic if you would call it that. I removed the knee wall on both sides of the attic and to make a long story short I could feel the heat coming from the flex boots when the downstairs furnace ran.

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