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I keep thinking I'm talking about a Presto type, though it wouldn't be as easy to assemble as a Banks style dory. I just checked Annie Hill's book for drawings of Badger, all Jay's dory’s are there, but no lifting keel. Pete Culler -- a man with no use for googe if ever there was one -- designed a 25-foot ketch-rigged sailing dory with minimal accommodations. I am actually a Wendell native - spent many an evening at the Warwick Inn when it was still a real tavern and not just a fluffy B&B. My (often faulty) understanding is that if it's a decent sailer you want, a dory isn't the best place to begin.
Yes, and when you start talking sharpies, who fails to drool at the mention of Clapham's Roslyn Yawl Minocqua?
True white water, especially in shallow water, is best in a plastic boat, whether canoe or kayak or sit on top. John Berry used to lay up glass WW slalom boats with just clear fiberglass and poly resin tht weren't any heavier layup than a stout stripper, in essence a strip boat without the strips.
Yes, you may have some repairs if you screw up your run, but it was done all the time when I was racing. You can also take a canoe, wax and mold release the exterior and do an exterior layup using glass quite nicely and have a good, but a little rough , glass canoe. The single biggest problem for beginners in moving water is that they have not - yet - learned what hazards look like.
Add tropical wildlife and life can be nasty brutish and short - Pete's accidental ramming of a hippo on the first Nile trip springs to mind. Canoes (open topped and paddled with single bladed paddle sitting on a seat or kneeling) are traditionally longer and considerably heavier than kayaks (decked boats - legs inside - double ended paddle and a spray-skirt). Either can be used on modest water - rougher stuff makes the ability to roll mandatory and this is (much) easier in a kayak. Dave posted some photos of one of his SOF boats that fetched up on a rock and was destroyed: heartbreaking.

Having run whitewater for years, I'd say that you can navigate rocky water in slow flows, or faster water with few or no rock hazards. There are specialised whitewater dories and such, but they're likely more of a proposition than you had in mind.
My preference for a plastic boat has as much to do with abrasion resistance and point loading as it does ultimate strength, of course the plastic boats are often soft and they gouge easily, but who really cares.
My preference for a plastic boat has as much to do with abrasion as it does ultimate strength, of course the plastic boats are often soft and they gouge easily, but who really cares.
I grew up on and after college lived within a 30 minute paddle of the southernmost class III white water east of the Mississippi.
Hunky Dory 2011 >> Pin picture to pinterest.Below are more Hunky Dory 2011 Phots and Pictures for you.
To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions. I rather admire Benford's Badger, but really don't relish the thought of working with epoxy and plywood. I've got half a dozen mature white pines on my new property, which I hope will be suitable for planking stock. I have done a lot of building in fiberglass, and wood composites, but recently have been thinking of a traditional wood construction project too. For rougher waters than that, or shallower and rockier waters, you'd be better off in a boat designed for that sort of thing.
I seem to remember from the drawing I've seen that there is an optional lifting keel of some sort. I'm living in Papua New Guinea at the moment, and last weekend went riding a tractor tube down a local river. My instructor at the time said that my trouble was that I didn't want to stay in the boat strongly enough! Whitewater canoes and kayaks are typically short (nowadays very short indeed), and have lots of rocker - these things allow them to be easily maneuverable, and thus better able to evade bashing into rocks.

When we went down in a tube there was a some paddling to one side or the other to avoid obstacles or to choose a line in places where the river divided around a sand bank or rock.
I'd give it a try with someone who knows the different between grade 1 and grade 5 rapids first Phil.
For rougher waters (which could even just mean higher water levels in your local river) you'll definitely want a helmet, and floatbags in your canoe, as well. A lot of the descent (if I can call it that) was a gentle cruise, with only moments of excitment where underwater obstacles made things interesting. Remarks:The Cape Dory 28 is a remarkably safe, sturdy design that can take you anywhere you wish in the Chesapeake. Most of the tricky bits I think could be avoided with a canoe or kayak much better than in a tractor tube paddled by hand. In many anchorages we have been the smallest and probably least expensive boat, but that did did not stop captains of much more prestigious yachts from giving us an appreciative nod as they motored by and mouthing nice boat . There was just one area with a bit of a drop right across the river, and some turbulance downstream, but it looked reasonably mild. So thats something I know how to build, and I figure it would be Ok in a river, but I have no experience and no idea. The river itself flows at a good pace, mostly fairly gentle, a few places where underwater obstructions create standing waves and a few other interesting effects on a tractor tube. There was aslo a 10 minute walk down a pretty steep and treachorous path to get to the starting point. Boatbuilding resources here are really very limited-I can get waterproof ply, epoxy and fibreglass.

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