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So what are your options in making lures you may ask, there are two basically one using a hot melt material called Plastisol and my system using Superflex silicone rubber.
Suppliers of Plastisol advise using it in very well ventilated places, wearing a quality respirator, aprons and hot gloves to prevent burns. It was by chance I tried something, the material used for making moulds RTV I used a release agent and filled one of the cavities and after a struggle I got it out of the mould and it produced quite a basic lure bit stiff, limited action but the concept worked. That’s the history lesson now comes the solution in how to use Silicone rubbers and successfully remove the lures from the moulds and create a lure with all the action of soft PVC but be more durable. With the moulds sorted the lure mix was developed taking silicone rubber adjusting it and getting the catchability and durability factor right and that is what I now use in my Superflex for general lure making and for the DIY anglers who want to make their own.
I have a comprehensive how to do it video and I advise anyone to sit and watch that to make sure it’s going to be for them and get the feel for the system. Making the lures is so easy providing you follow the basic guidelines, first job is to apply the mould release making sure all the mould surface in the cavity and on the mould top are coated. If you want to mould in the jighead and hook easy to do with most of the moulds and you can re-inforce the jighead with alloy wire, I use an industrial superglue to secure the wire to the hook shaft to stop twist and pull out works very well. The first time you use the lures you have made and take a fish that is when the buzz kicks in and lure making can become addictive. When sourcing jigheads for your lures I make quite a range and can advise on what’s best for each lure design and this is important in how the lure swims. Please can you give me a price for the larger type lead head kit (off to Norway next year) and the smaller kit for pollock & cod off the West Wales coast.
Visit a local creek, lake, or your own bathtub or water table for some creative water play!! If you enjoyed this post, please consider leaving a comment or subscribing to the RSS feed to have future posts delivered to your feed reader. Made 'em myself, they work great, the tops come down in about a minute each for the trip to and from the lake, the sticks, as someone called them, stay in place. I had been trying to figure something out when I saw yours and was going to make mine retractable as well. Boat building, one of the oldest branches of engineering Pioneered in New Zealand using technology from Formula 1 are more labor-intensive than steel or fiberglass, so New England Fiberglass Repair has completed the construction of this New fiberglass, fiberglass boat builder, fiberglass rowboat, fun England Peapod, fun little, fun New Boatbuilders Home Page.
The Boatshop (Fiberglass boat repairs, bottom paint and many in the Olympic 470 and 49er classes, Auckland, New Zealand) Mad River Canoe.
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I strongly recommend that you go to that other page FIRST and make one with those instructions. I started this one with a piece of 26 (?) gauge aluminum (for you Englishmen, that's aluminium) measuring 30.4 cm x 36. I actually had to throw the WHOLE THING INTO THE GARBAGE without being able to use ANY of it!!
I've put a LOT of effort into this page; I'd like it to be as close to "perfect" as possible.

This is a FUN project; not only does the little boat have POWER, but it SOUNDS like it has a tiny DIESEL motor! I'm really enjoying making many of these boats and this page will evolve as better ideas come to mind. Next, take the "cross-brace" part F and make it into a triangular "cylinder" using J-B and tape to hold it.
On the gunwale, both on the inside and the outside, make a mark with a pen, 13 cm from the transom. When the transom is solidly in place, it is time to drill the holes in the stern for the two straw tailpipes.
THIS might be a good time to make a "stand" or "dry-dock" for your boat; it will be handy during construction.
Then mark on the aluminum, the edges to be folded; use a ballpoint pen to scratch the 2 lines onto each piece. When that has fully dried, pull out the two straws and carefully remove the boiler from the Scotch Tape donuts. Now cut and bend the two little "blocks" (parts "J") like this; they will help position the boiler.
Bend the top of the wire in whatever way looks best to you and glue the spacer to the stern. If you want a new hobby or something to do on a winters night try this it’s very addictive and just so easy to do, you can sit in front of the telly if you want. The Plastisol material is basically printing ink used in screen printing and when crudely heated in a microwave it changes state from a milky liquid it goes to a water clear pourable liquid. You need a dedicated microwave as it’s not recommended to use one you cook your food in, Pyrex jugs to heat it so as you can see some major down sides in using and starting up costs with Plastisol.
Only problem now the mould material is silicone rubber and the only material that sticks to it is yes silicone rubber so unless you aggressively apply a mould release like Vaseline or petroleum jelly you have a pot luck chance of getting your lures out without tearing the lure body or the mould face so not that practical really.
I solved the mould issue in using a Polyurethane resin with my own fillers added for strength and heat absorption, mould development was via 3D Cad, 3D printer and hand moulding techniques. For the DIY users the system is very simple and quick plus there are no fumes and is very safe to use so if you’re stuck for space in a workshop you can easily make your lures anywhere in your property and cost effective as there is no expensive plant or equipment needed. If you look at the images below you will see the quickstart sequence and just how easy it is to use and make your own lures.
Once the mould is filled clean up round the edges with the scrapers so you get crisp lures and no after trimming required. Applying 3D eyes is simply a case of using the superglue, they hold in well but inevitably they will get bashed around and pop out so if it’s your favourite catching lure just keep a few in your tackle box for quick repair.
It is that easy and fun to do as you can experiment with colours and you can adjust your mix to make it softer or more action by using silicone oils but bear in mind to do this you will reduce the tear strength and increase the risk of the lures getting their Ass’s bitten off but now you make your own there are no tears on losing a more costly lure just salvage the jighead and make some more. The range of moulds in my collection suit most styles of fishing from the beach, rocks or boat and with the Superflex being far tougher than PVC or Plastisol lures it casts well too. You will also see links to my YouTube channel were you can see tank test video and the lures in action at close range plus catch footage showing the lures in action taking some good fish.

Here is a really simple toy boat the kids can make themselves, then race in a local creek, lake, or even in your own bathtub! If you plan to race your toy boat in a creek or lake, attach a length of cotton string to keep your boat from floating away. Here are 10 Ways to Stay Cool with Water Play and our Water Fun for Kids Pinterest Board has plenty of other ideas to keep the kids entertained this Summer.
I work at a bar and have been saving our corks so I can make a fleet as Christmas presents for my nephews. Whether you're researching a new boat, or are a seasoned Captain, you'll find The Hull Truth Boating & Fishing Message Forum contains a wealth of information from Boaters and Sportfishermen around the world.
Maha Mysore Boat Building New Zealand Fibreglass Systems is the one stop repairer Boats applies over 50 years aluminium boat building Fiberglass Boat Repair Boat Maintenance Fishing Boats 6m Fiberglass Fishing boat with outboard engine, New Zealand Design Engineering, CE, 5-year structural warranty, Mercury. This shows that tool.Put a short piece of metal tape on each of the two rear corners of the boat. Before you take your boat out to play with it, make several more "fuel supply" strips with candles glued on. You should not have the candle flame too close to the straws; even inside the "steam chamber" they can easily melt.
Colours and glitters can be added before filling the moulds, sounds ideal but there are drawbacks one main one is fumes especially if you overcook it. The material is big in the USA and is used in the UK, it has very low tear strength unless hardeners are added and that effects how the lures perform BUT!! Once you have decided on the lure mould that will suit your angling needs you will see on the sales image it has information on the size and the weight of the finished lure so if it’s just that one lure you will be making then divide the container ie 500g by the lure weight say 10g and allow 10% for waste so it would yield 45 lures as example.
New moulds are being added all the time as I’m addicted to making them and trying new designs out wrecking, reef or on the Bass.
Hooks are important too as all angler know cheap hooks can fail at the wrong time so I use top of the range EagleClaw either 635 or 570HBP series tough strong lazer sharpened hooks and they have landed some very big fish and not let me down. No time to make your own no problem I make and sell my whole range so you can buy ready made and jigheads to suit as well.
My kids love making their own toys, so this activity was a big hit with them, plus it uses mostly recycled materials!
However, if it does happen to float off, it is made from natural materials that will break down and decompose.
Metal Boatplans, Boat plans, Designs, Boatbuilding Books and Boating Equipment throughout Australia, New Zealand The Boat Place (Building and restoration of fiberglass, wood State, Canada, Australia New Zealand.

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