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It employs the same basic radius chine plywood construction technique, scaled down to suit the smaller boat but takes it a step further into the plywood precut kit concept. The backbone is also of plywood, on edge, slotted through the bulkheads as a self-jigging eggcrate arrangement to assist setting up the framework. Assembly of the hull follows the principles of model aeroplane construction, with stringers slotted into the bulkheads for attachment of the skin. The standard keel is a vertical dropkeel with a 400kg bulb on the end of the high aspect foil. The cockpit and bridgedeck together are 3m long, giving plenty of space for working the boat while racing or socialising or sunning when cruising. The fractional and masthead spinnakers are asymmetric, set on a retractable pole on the foredeck. Included in the stock plan package are full size patterns of the backbone and various other components, plotted onto mylar film on our large format inkjet roll plotter. Follow these links to an article on radius chine plywood and other designs of similar construction, the Didi Mini, DIDI 23, DIDI 28, Didi MG30, DIDI 34 and DIDI 38. Follow these links to print or download a material list for the structure or a stability curve for this design. Location: Eustis, FL A 80 pound Meranti boat will weight 64 pounds if Okoume.
You probably don't need okoume or meranti, but you do need something with a truly waterproof glue and with continuous, gap-free core veneers. Some designs, such as Phil Bolger's small plywood boats, are designed with scantlings that account for the defects and weaknesses in exterior-grade ply. If the designer's specs call for marine-grade ply, then you're taking a substantial risk if you move to cheaper stuff. Location: South Carolina Thanks for the tips and I agree that I need good quality plywood. Location: OREGON When you look for exterior ply it is called CCX-PTS for plugged, touched and sanded. Location: Ontario APA requirements for exterior grade ply do not permit D-grade veneers.
BCX and ABX or ACX are suitable for bulkheads, furniture and other items in a build, but I wouldn't use it for planking on all but the cheapest and shortest life expectancy project.
Construction grades just don't bend uniformly, usually popping, kinking or developing some sort of deformity in the process. If the original poster (Jazman1976) drops me an email, I know of a few suppliers in his area, where he can pick up Okoume, meranti or fir construction grade plywood.
Location: South Carolina I though I would attach a picture of what my boat could look like. Location: South Carolina I just purchased some AC exterior lumber this weekend. Location: Duluth, Minnesota I wouldnt use any plywood made in the USA in any part of any boat,period,we only really have one standard,BAD. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
Location: Eustis, FL I've used that type of setup, in fact I made a fancy one with adjustable ramps and all. Unless I have many scarfs to do that day, I usually rough them in with a power plane, then finish with a belt sander, hand plane and sharp chisel. I did a 2m x 5m MDF plug freehand with a router and power planes last year- it worked, but it's not an experience I'd care to repeat even with skilled help. Location: Eustis, FL I don't use any type of jig when I'm doing scarfs by hand. Working with plywood, the veneer glue lines are a great assistant in keeping things beveled the way you want.
So far I have used butt blocks for ply edge-to-edge joints in my boats but a few months ago I butt joined several test pieces of 3 mm and 4 mm ply using epoxy, no butt block.
The longer the joint the stronger it is but once it's as strong as the wood is there any point in making it longer? Strip planking (depending on which type) typically doesn't need to be scarfed, nor planked out of especially good wood (usually), so the comparison is weak to say the least.
Longer scarf ratios are required on materials that will receive some bend or load, the more so the longer the scarf slope. With the exception of very few, most of the adhesives used in the industry easily exceed the physical properties of most of the woods we use. Originally Posted by latestarter As expected the hull was floppy (trying to lift one end just spread the topsides at the middle) but I was surprised how stiff it was in torsion as a U-shape is not good at resisting torsion.
The other advantage of putting this on now, is that you can use the frames as an accurate way of locating the height of the strake, by measuring up each side.
I found that a series of laminated strips of wood were easy to apply, and looked attractive, thereby avoiding all the hassle of steam bending. When I started this project I thought how could I avoid all the problems with bending to shape and decided to cut them from plywood and laminate.
The idea is to clamp on a gunwale and adjust to the most pleasing shape, it may look a bit different as it will not be running parallel with the chines but this is true of most dinghies.


Originally Posted by rwatson If you have fibreglassed all the outsides, this is a good time to put the sheer strake (around the sheer on the outside). My own preference is to add the inwales to the sheers while flat since the ply planks are floppy and the inwales stiffen them, they are much easier to do that way, although that will not work with scuppered wale's. For your hull I suggest you install the breasthooks first which will provide additional support to the flexible sheer planks.
Scuppered inwales are a little more difficult than plain ones; they help drain the inside of the boat but in a canoe their biggest advantage is added stiffness at minimum weight.
Location: Eustis, FL I've never liked the faux inwale, clamp (what Terry calls a scuppered wale) assembly.
On small craft what I prefer to do is employ a inwale, directly against the planking, tied to a rub rail on the outside. Location: Tasmania,Australia Its easy to add an inwhale if the frames have been shaped to allow that, but otherwise, not. Most light boats dont need an inner and outer strake, eg many kayaks rely just on the deck for the strength.
If you are worried about having to replace the outer strip after years of impact, you can have a separate non-glued extra strip around the outside, but usually its just easier to countersink any fasteners deeply, so you can plane or sand back to a firm surface prior to adding another strip to cover the damage down the track. Originally Posted by rwatson Its easy to add an inwhale if the frames have been shaped to allow that, but otherwise, not.. El_Guero Previous Member   What do you mean when you say you use SS? Having got the ends of the planks together and the the ties out, at some stage I shall countersink the holes, drill through the inner stem to link the pair of holes, then fill with epoxy and fibres to create an epoxy rivet. This is a telecasting showing you how i made my galvanising plywood gravy holder and a litle test run perhaps liberal Plywood.
Experience run up And Glue Sailboat Plans here http GetBoatPlans in that location are many ways to find boat pontoon boat plans plywood.
Plywood Boats Plans Plywood Boats Plans There are may and sub processes included in fashioning a plywood boat plans and with practice and some assists from manual you should be able to learn the artwork Plywood Boats Plans . The small size of the vessel permits the elimination of the laminated floors needed to support the keel loads in the larger boats. It extends from the stemhead to the transom and has large radius structural fillets to tie it into the hull skin. The hull skin is single skin plywood to the sides and bottom and the radius is done in two layers.
The cabintop is designed with a multi-chine skin and is assembled over the bulkheads by the stitch and glue method for a strong and lightweight structure.
Epoxy coated and painted inside and out to hull and deck, a good standard of finish is achievable with little or no fairing aside from forming fillets at internal angles. This uses a hollow aluminum casing for the foil, constructed over tubular inner framing and fitted with the same bulb options as the lifting keel.
The inboard end is fitted on a radiused transverse track to allow the outboard end to be projected up to weather for sailing at deeper angles. Bulkhead shapes are simple and easily set out from clear diagrams, the setting out taking about 2 to 3 hours per bulkhead. We also have an amateur projects section where you can see other projects to this and other designs. Okoume has less rot resistance then Meranti, but this point is relatively moot if you use epoxy encapsulation methods. Each mill will set it's own standards and put what ever label on it they think they can sell it for. As Wynand said,use BS1088, it really is not that expensive in a small boat and is a pleasure to work with instead of a frustration and you can end up with something you can be proud of. I found the set up a pain in the butt, clamping the stock troublesome and it was slow to do. I think the old 12:1 rule dates from the days before decent marine glues when the joint was nailed together.
England I can see the sense in that, it would be stupid to lock in the wrong shape for the gunwales. Some of the builds I have seen, seem to have spent more on clamps for the gunwales than on plywood. However using 4mm ply it would take a lot of time to fit and now with the cold weather a lot of waiting time between each layer. The plan is to raise the midships level by 50mm to make it feel more like sitting in the boat rather than on it, be more suitable for rowing and increase freeboard for sailing.
I have left the pencil line grid on the top plank so can transfer the position to the rear half and other side of the boat to match up. Put both on dry (no glue) to check the fit and verify the clamping arrangement, also take the opportunity to verify the hull is not distorted. It's a left over from the days of a clamp on the inside of the frame heads and not really the easiest way to do things.
This still leaves a lip on the inside to prevent drainage when the hull is tipped, but you can leave them short at the ends a few inches and ditto the breast hook(s).
The designer suggests using filled epoxy on the outside to get the curve then cover with tape and epoxy.


After all through the generations boats are built in plywood and the surprise of this material that tends to make an ideal selection correctly through the ages Plywood Boats Plans . The addition of a layer of glass fabric to the outside will give increased resistance to knocks but will add weight and require fairing, thereby adding a fair amount to construction time and cost.
The casing is bolted through the hull bottom to an aluminum support box, which is bolted to the internal structure of the hull.
They are located where they can be operated from the companionway, the bridgedeck or the weather rail.
Extension and retraction of the pole can be done from either rail, with the pole retracting to whichever side is convenient at the time. The dropkeel casing forms one side of the enclosed heads compartment, which includes a bin type wet locker. Down below it goes along with a pair of quarter berths, also more suited to the hairy chested racer and use under sail. Although not designed to their limits, she was drawn to fit within the class rules of the now defuct Australian Level Class 800 Association, a set of rules that was formulated to give boat-for-boat racing for trailer sailers. For those who would prefer to have full size patterns for the bulkheads, we can also supply them as an optional extra. The only proof in the pudding is to physical examine each sheet for the common set of flaws.
Unfortunatly you wont be able to buy it locally so will need to order it and the shipping is not cheap.
I could do a hand scarf faster then the time it took to set up the jig, the router and clamp things tight enough. The belt sander continues this, but to a finer degree, then the chisel (must be sharp or you're wasting time) hones it down to a finished product. At this stage about 85% of the chines were fully filleted on the outside so adjustment was not available. The temporary frames will ensure that the strake is at the right distance from the centreline.
Note the way they are shaped to accept the inwales later - this will depend on whether plain or scuppered inwales are desired.
It is a bit complicated to describe how to fit them here but you should be able to find a tutorial or blog on the net. The easiest way is to taper the outwales to a thin edge together with the rub rail if used; a half-round hardwood molding finished with a fine taper looks well with this style. With Christmas approaching I shall not be working on the boat for the next fortnight so will be thinking which methods will be most suitable. Its beautiful houses and simplicity to make usage is incredibly well-liked with amateurs who can easily style in the shape of a boat and also examine its flotation homes in water before making use of the model to build the boat really. All of these parts are plywood and epoxy filleted together, making for simplified construction. I'll bet the first time you spelled your name in the snow, it was pretty sloppy, but after years of practice, you can dot the I's and cross the T's reasonably cleanly. I tried clamping a 25mm x 19mm batten to the outside and it fitted without the need for steaming. You can also bevel the underside on the inwale (as Terry suggests), so it'll shed water when tipped side to side. Most light boats dont need an inner and outer strake, eg many kayaks rely just on the deck for the strength .
When you get to the content you can select from fiberglass or plywood to make the suction of your boat. The bulb can be done in either a simple vertical sided foil section for owner casting or a torpedo shape for professional casting. A light drifter can be flown outside the shrouds and sheets to the spinnaker blocks on the quarters. The prime berth in the boat is a large transverse double under the bridgedeck, great for use on moorings or at anchor. Whichever route you choose, we will be available to assist with advice if any problems arise. Another way shown below is to leave the cutwater square at the top and bevel the inside ends of the outwales to blend in; getting the bevel and length both right can be tricky but not all that hard to do.
If an outwale is added first the sheers are stiff enough to allow the frames to be removed while an inwale is added. Quite possibly the greatest thought is to get some sort of 3D boat style software that is affordable flexible and easy to use and is suitable for anyone by hobby model boats to ship qualified mass producers. It is not so challenging to develop their boat and boats custom made really are certainly anger and well-liked with different individuals so close to the world Plywood Boats Plans. It's certainly extremely valuable in the ideas of boat as extremely fantastic ease of use and can be molded so well.



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