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Using Glen-L Plans and Patterns, the TUFFY is an easy boat to build, even for the rank amateur. Learn how to fiberglass the easy way, by looking over the shoulder of an expert who is working on actual boats. It will be minimally-sized to suit the outboard (as small as I can get it so the engine is able to tilt up), which puts the bracket in the 15 inch range.
Originally I was going to make a non-flotation one out of aluminum, more like a long jack plate, ie big channel cut to the right angle or possible plate and angle bolted together similarly.
Now looking at what others have done out of fiberglass, I'm wondering if wood and glass would be a better option - I could easily create any shape that way; the weight would probably be similar for such a small object. Location: portsmouth england ive built quite a few outboard pods in the last couple years for people.
Location: Australia 16 feet is not a size you can go moving a 350 lb weight aft a couple of feet and not notice a big difference. Originally Posted by Mr Efficiency 16 feet is not a size you can go moving a 350 lb weight aft a couple of feet and not notice a big difference. That wasn't accounting for the transom angle, the impact of mounting the engine higher for the setback, or the likely possibility of the engine coming partially over the transom at full tilt. So it's very possible the bracket ends up more like 12 inches or less if I carefully calculate the true clearance required.
Another option is I could forseeably find a 25 inch driveshaft & exhaust housing, make the engine I've got a 25 inch (currently a 20) and build the existing transom up to that level.
Location: Australia You need to have enough clearance to fully tilt the motor, in the straight-ahead position.
Location: Australia It doesn't seem you gained much internal space there WP23, what was the object of the exercise for you ?
Location: australia probably a bit hard to see in the pics mr e, but the pod only extends into the hull about 200 mm so now the inside is flush right across , I don't know the correct word but that is the original capping across the transom which is just deep enough to have a battery each side of the pod. Location: australia i only did it this way to utilize the engine beds instead of building a new thicker transom.
Location: Australia OK, so the pod is attached to the old inboard engine bed, that sounds like good use of existing structure, if it can take the stresses.

Location: australia so far so good, it is also epoxy glassed right up each side at transom as well. Some background information though - boat is a 16 foot aluminum starcraft converted to a center console, it has a 20 gallon fuel tank ~1 foot forward from the transom - then 3 batteries forward of that, then a console forward of that. With this setup I have alot of freedom to move weight around - for instance the 200 lbs of batteries can go all the way up to the bow if needed. Location: australia I prefer to keep pods short as I can, with the v4 you can get away with a fairly short pod, mine is 400mm and it protrudes enough to mount a swim platform each side which I will be doing. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. How To Build a Searover Outboard Boat Plans How To Build a Searover Outboard Boat PlansWHAT'S your cruising pleasure? The instructions for this boat contain more than 50 construction photographs of the prototype to amplify the step-by-step procedures.
Anyone know about how thick of plywood and how much laminate this would require to hold a 350 lb ~100 HP engine? Aside from the work involved in getting the transom extended + modifying the engine, I'm not really keen on that idea though because in the end the engine rigging will all be in the boat. The extra bouyancy of the pod might be handy to keep the powerhead higher, even if the boat has become a little tender.
I am going to build a ply box which extends above the pod to mount a bait board on top and tackle trays underneath. With this type of setup - is there any reason to go longer than required to tilt the engine up? This high performance boat is the result of several prototype testing models which handled a variety of power-plants in virtually every maneuver imaginable.
If your boat has a lot of width at the transom, say 175cm chine-to-chine, you can probably get away with it, but if it were 150cm, I'd say forget it. I have dragged this boat over rough roads, thrashed it in steep chop and it is rock solid, the old Johnson on the back is over 150 kg and the pod handles it fine. Then in front of the console there is about 4 feet, two storage areas there running width-wise - one for fish aft, one for anchor forward.

It sat OK in the water (kinda flat) but always felt kinda bow heavy and was slow - with 1 person it could do 30 but with 2 it could barely plane no matter where the second passenger stood. Efficiency expressed; I very much want to go with a bracket but do not want it to cause problems either.
She towed skiers, was flipped into tight turns, and made to jump wakes just like the larger boats of this type. It is entirely different podding a 16 footer to say, a 20 footer, the engine is far bigger percentage of total weight, in the case of the smaller boat. I removed a v8 inboard v drive and made the pod to bolt to the old engine beds as well as tabbing it with cloth and epoxy. Standing on the transom had little impact to the boat, so I always said just dropping a heavier outboard on the back might fix all of the problems (power and weight distribution).
Basically I planned to measure the length needed, build no longer than that, then if I want an extra inch I can just add a shim to move it back or change the angle so it can't trim as high (versus being stuck with a bracket that is 2 inches longer than needed) - is this a bad idea? Naturally, any small boat has limitations, and the TUFFY is at her best in protected waters where the speed potential can be used.
Then if you use polyester you have to paint the polystyrene to seal it (use a denser grade) or the polyester will eat it up, water based wall paint is fine. It becomes a different equation if you make the pod a continuation of the bottom, but it doesn't guarantee success. If you prefer a cabin cruiser, Sea Rover can be made in that style Or if you just want to get around with ease, there's the economy style outboard utility model of Sea Rover.
If the 15-foot length of our original version is too snug for you, for a few more dollars you can convert this plan to a 17-footer. If you have trouble getting exterior grade plywood, you can use the lap strake planking instead of plywood covering.

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