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Howdy, I just found this forum, been a member of several similar forums for quite some time! I figured this was as good a place as any for a first post, since making things from scratch is my favorite thing to do! I wanted a small boat I could transport in the bed of my pickup and carry to the water, for the times I can take out the 14' bass boat! I didnt take nearly enough picture through the constuction so a little imagination is required! I sealed the hull with some free blackjack waterproof roofing sealer, silicon on the inside!
You have the same problem in any vessel when paddling from the very rear, the torque is always going to want to spin the boat.
With two people the boat will sit more level in the water, and you can balance you paddling.
Thank you I will look for the book my son insists he saw me looking at a similar boat project. Location: Atlanta Plywood boat finished time for glass but a few questions first?
Location: maine There is a difference between designs in terms of total expenditure, usually due to the pedigree or sophistication of the build, that determines the cost of materials and labor. A simple experimental design, especially a first boat, will last for years even if the materials were cheap and the design dirt-simple to build. Purely in the interests of economy, I think you would get good results doing the following. 1) Use the epoxy, with a little bit of silica mixed in, to do a bead around the insides of all the joins ( and inside any gaps ).
2) use the epoxy with say fine wood sandings, to fill in any gaps on the outside of the joins, and lay about a 6" strip of 6 oz cloth in epoxy around all the outside joints. Normally, at this stage I would suggest a layer of 6oz cloth and epoxy all over the bottom of the boat, as it looks like you will be using an outboard on the boat, and this would add bottom strength for motoring, and a bit of grounding protection. However, if you use whatever is left over of the epoxy to do as much of the hull bottom as you can ( starting from the keel ), you could probably get away with using cheaper polyester resin on the bottom and sides of the boat with the 6 oz cloth.
Once that is done, you could most likely get away with some good sealer paint and top paint to the inside of the boat, and it would give you satisfactory results.
So polyester resin it is then with 6 .0z cloth at the joints inside and out (is this seam-taping?), then cover the inside and outside with 4 coats of exterior house pant.
Location: Eustis, FL If using polyester resin, don't use 6 ounce cloth as your tabbing.
Location: Tasmania,Australia Yes, as Par says, Polyester is not wood friendly, and would need a better quality glass material. I would STRONGLY recommend Epoxy on at least the seam taping - especially as you have already got a lot of gunge in the joins.
If you sheath the outside of the hull with Polyester - don't bother doing any Polyester on the inside. Fillets of Construction Glue etc will be a complete waste of time, and just become a moisture trap.
This IS my first boat so lets pretend I don’t want to epoxy anything (not suggesting this just wanting to investigate all possible routes) how would I go about finish up the boat? Epoxy is great but probably you can't make a silk purse from a sow's ear especially if its your first ear. Epoxy or polyester and tape will work but you have to grind off any silicone (except what is left flush at the joints.) You don't have to dig out any silicone that is in the cracks. Location: Eustis, FL You find that silicone isn't viewed very favorably in the industry, unless you're putting in some windows.
Hack out as much of the silicone as you can, then fillet the bonded areas with thickened polyester, after fully saturating the areas with straight resin. Location: Tasmania,Australia As Par says, the difference in budget between doing the seams in poly versus epoxy may not be as huge as you think after thickening, especially as you don't really need to glass the whole inside of the boat. I would only apply matt glass very sparingly for huge gaps if you use epoxy, as matt and epoxy can be a bit difficult, especially for a new builder. The extra longevity, strength and lower future maintenance of using epoxy will pay for itself many times over. Location: Eustis, FL Agreed on epoxy use, but he apparently has the polyester (my assumption). This IS my first boat so lets pretend I don?t want to epoxy anything (not suggesting this just wanting to investigate all possible routes) how would I go about finish up the boat? When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
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Painted it with some "oops" exterior paint from home depot, the paint was $5 for a gallon!
If you noticed little gaps along the edges of the pieces you cut, or that the wood itself is quite soft and easy to splinter, then epoxy in glass over the entire boat would be a great idea to make sure that the boat doesn't fall apart from water ingress. I went to a local boat yard and copied all the angles and measurements from one of the Jon boats there, I also bought a set of plans and compared and compromised with all the measurements and angles to give me a boat that I could build given my skill level and needs. At first I got the impression I should use poly resin because it is a dry-sail boat….
I repair lots of production boats that have wooden parts covered in polyester, so I'm grateful the manufactures still use this technique.
Apply a few courses of mat and roving over the seams and joints, well tabbed out onto the hull shell and surrounding elements. Nope, but so what, go have fun, learn what you will and fix the stuff that breaks, as you need to.
He's also got the silicone and other issues, so lets just get him out there and he'll figure things out, just like the rest of us.
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By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. The "tab" sticking up out of the transom is for mounting a Transom Mount 30lbs thrust Trolling Motor! I could get around pretty good paddling from the middle seat, Not as effective from the rear seat which was expected, the torque applied from paddling in the rear tends to turn the boat rather than drive it forward.
I used screws, wood glue on all the joints, and silicone II caulk sealant crammed into every where I could put it inside and out.
You can improve the quality of your build with more polyester then the typical factory uses in their boats, but it still has limitations. This will give you the polyester price point, some level of structural bonding and you'll get some 'glassing experience too. The most important thing is getting her bottom wet, which is what I tell the other half all the time.
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The point is to get out on the wet, so get on with it and let the things fall where they will. The boat will not explode the moment it hits the water, just because you used silicone and covered it in poly, so build in a big beer cooler (mandatory equipment) and go have some fun.



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