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Before I start putting this thing back together I want to mimic how the pontoons seem to be built today and that is using the full pontoon tube for the deck and hanging the outboard further back. Interesting, I like how the deck was extended out the back and the motor had a little hole to sit in.
The trailer I bought didn't allow the back of the pontoons to sit flush with the rear lights. I also worked on the floor yesterday.I cut these 3" wide strips of aluminum for each bracket location. You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. Since the stereo speakers and power seem to follow the standard color codes for front -rear and power, is it safe to assume all the lights, horn and other accessories follow some standard of wiring? I would like to develop a wiring diagram for this pontoon but I would hate to have to start from scratch and trace out the circuits by trail and error. The key switch accessory position question is based on the brand of the engine on your boat.
I found if you smack the head of the bolt down with a ballpeen hammer it left enough room to get the thread started!

There was also a red wire with a yellow tracer in the same (stereo) wiring bundle of the pontoon but it was just clipped. If so what are those standards and where can I find a standard schematic or wiring diagram for those standards?
Is there a way to connect this battery to the the engine's alternator but not allow the trolling motor battery to try to start the main engine? Just be careful on 19in tubes to not get too much weight on the back, they won't take it like larger tubes will. You're making great progress, you and "teachers_pet" should help each other out with your builds, then you would also have another boating partner for fishing or just lounging on the lakes since you 2 live in the same area!
With a fuse panel it gives your circuits a fuse circuit as well as the breakers on the switches but it gives you the added benefit of adding whatever you want to a fuse protection. If you look at my rebuild, not only did I add the fuse panel harness but the grounding blocks as well.
The stereo wiring diagram shows two positive connections one labeled battery and the other labeled ignition - I don't want the stereo on all the time.
I just want to use the trolling motor battery for the trolling motor and accessories when the main engine is not running if that is possible.

As for the elevator bolts if the end of the bolt is flush with they outside of the nut I think you are ok.
So battery cable comes from the rear seat house battery via VSR setup, to a positive and negative blocks via 4 awg cables and them jumpered to the fuse panel via 10ga wire.
My electric anchors draw a lot of juice when operated, so I use 10 ga from the anchors to the blocks and they have 30 amp breakers on the positive leads. The ease of it is that the EZACDC fuse panel will plug into PontoonStuff's harness or their stuff, no problem.
Its just that the EZACDC pontoon harness (or even small boat harness) gives you more options (last time I checked).
Possibilities are endless (and so I guess can be confusing), but with the prewired fuse panel, it'll just plug right in and you can add accessories.

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