Pontoon boat rental gulf shores 36542

Atlanta wooden boat association membership
We have a question about older steel hull houseboats, when it comes to checking, maintenance, repairing, and or replacement costs?How do you know when the Hull needs painting, or even checking for rust or corrosion? I have a 1971 Stardust Cruiser (50') steel hull houseboat that I purchased on Lake Lanier in Atlanta, GA in 1997. Make Bunch Marine your one-stop boat dealer for new and used boats for sale, Mercury parts and Yamaha parts, and boat service in East Tennessee. We offer a great boat sales selection of new and used bass boats, bowriders, runabouts, aluminum boats, pontoon boats, jon boats and any other boat you can think of at our dealership in Harriman, TN. The coating will trap moisture, and the steel will quietly rust, out of sight.Leave it bare, keep it dry.
It is going to be 24m X 9m and will weigh 60 tons or more.The pontoons are complete and I now have to apply the floor. But the upper structure is worth saving, as it has oak floors, and 2 bathrooms, 2 bedrooms and 2 floors etc. We are also planning on being in the gulf coast of Florida, with the option of heading to the Keys once a year. Built in 1990 as a Float Home on a steel hull style barge, with a pointed bow, but no motors, 40 feet x 16 feet, 2 stories with 3rd story patio deck, flat bottom, hard chine steel, displacing apps 30,000 pounds.
The house boat was all redone inside, but the previous owner said it's been about 10 years since they had steel hull checked.


Both are a preventative measure and worth the expense since the houseboat is already out of the water. I've read all the opinions on steel hulls, but I somehow cannot get past the strength of steel. Is aluminum a reasonable comparison for steel, considering we plan on traveling with our boat? If it is the bottom or hull you are concerned about, have the rascal pulled and if the boat does not have the sacrificial anodes, it would be in your best interest to have it sand blasted. I can get it very cheap, maybe just for the cost of towing it away (before it sinks!)My IDEA is to haul out and cleanup the hull with sandblasting, epoxy seal and patch the worst spots, and paint it. 4) As simple and easy way to verify and check the condition of the hull without having the expense of a "haul-out", you can consider to hire a diver to inspect it yearly. You or someone will have to be there to wipe it down with a prep wash immediately or it will start to rust in no time. With a new 3 foot wide walkway running along both sides of the 40 foot hull, on top of the new foam blocks beneath. To do a bare metal inspection, I would recommend any "paint thinner" but not "laquer thinner". The added width and extra 9,000 lbs margin is for extreme snow load events, excessive people on board and for lateral stability during possible moments off center loading).Can you comment on this IDEA, and any alternative suggestions or similar known conversions of a Houseboat to a Float Home, Or other Steel Hull conversion to a positive floatation shell?


It seems like a good way to salvage a nice little 2 bedroom float-home out of a leaky old steel hull.
One of most important steps is once the area is ready for painting, I highly recommend applying a coat or two of Rust Metal Prep. If you find any pin holes or "dimples" in the hull where electrolysis had been eating away at the steel, a good marine grade two part steel epoxy will take care of this. But, just before you apply the epoxy, wipe that area with Laquer thinner, Acetone or the like.
After this is all done, and the epoxy setting time is over, have the bottom primer paint ready, wash the bottom with Laquer thinner or Acetone or the like, but NOT paint thinner. Doing one side at a time, starting at the bow, after the washer has gone about 10 feet, start applying the primer coat. The Queen I did is still running stong after almost 20 years.Let me know if you have other problems.



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