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Wiring your pontoon boat can be a hassle when trying to use your old pontoon boat wiring harness. Since the stereo speakers and power seem to follow the standard color codes for front -rear and power, is it safe to assume all the lights, horn and other accessories follow some standard of wiring? I would like to develop a wiring diagram for this pontoon but I would hate to have to start from scratch and trace out the circuits by trail and error. The key switch accessory position question is based on the brand of the engine on your boat. As you can see, I added and wired the two Attwood battery selector switches and a fourth battery to the system (Battery 2) and wired all the batteries in parallel. Add circuit protection for the Blue Seas fuse panel at its connection location to the boat battery switch. If the trolling motor batteries are near the bow of the boat I would consider adding circuit protection at each end of this wire to help reduce the risk of a catastrophic fault. Most people don’t use welding cable on boats or cars because it is not oil resistant. I recently bought a 16 foot Smokercraft fishing boat with a 60 hp Mercury EFI 4 stroke engine.
All of the above worked before the stereo hook-up in which I connected the power cable to the ignition. I would use a meter or test light to look for 12 volt power at the key switch and make your way back to the engine. I have switched from a 24 volt system to a 36 volt system and noted that two of the four prongs on the male plug are larger than the other two.
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When working on the boat, I noticed a lot of the marine wiring that appears to be old bonding wires is old and has either bad connections or has completely broken away from the parts it was connected to. I’ve seen various articles on bonding but remain not completely clear on the correct way to bond the boat and make sure all grounding has been done correctly.

Here is a site with the ABYC standards for marine wiring Please check out Page 31 and 32 which spell out how to bond your system. Last week, I decided to get the boat ready to go in the water, I checked my battery, which checked OK. The 3A fuse is probably for a bilge pump auto switch or some other low draw device in your marine electrical system. If all accessories are inoperative, the problem is either the power feed or the ground for your fuse box. I would check the boat battery cable connections and follow them up to the boat’s fuse panel. The battery is fine (tested) and there is power to all the accessories but the ignition switch seems dead….the motor will not turn over and the tilt will not work either. When I first looked it seemed good, but I finally replaced it just on a chance and it worked just fine. The only change that I would make would be to run the top battery charger output to battery #2 either at the battery switch or directly to the battery. If your pontoon boat has a bimini top and you are planning on attaching your all-round white light to the top of the frame, you many want to consider switching to this navigation light kit, which has a light base that easily mounts to the frame.
Our New Universal Pontoon Boat Wiring Harness comes with everything you need to make re-wiring your boat a breeze. There was also a red wire with a yellow tracer in the same (stereo) wiring bundle of the pontoon but it was just clipped.
If so what are those standards and where can I find a standard schematic or wiring diagram for those standards? Is there a way to connect this battery to the the engine's alternator but not allow the trolling motor battery to try to start the main engine?
If this does not fix the problem—do you have any suggestions of where I should look next? Should these wires be installed on the two larger prongs, since the 36 volt system will be drawing more current than the 24 volt system. What is the best method for bonding (wire size, methods for attaching, one main bond wire that others are connected to, or each individually bonded, etc.)?

The motor kept running but the gauges all started to bouncing the indicator needles around then the control panel went dead.
Make sure your battery connections are good and that you do not rotate a battery switch to off while the engine is running.
The bad fuse had a hairline fracture in it and when I held it up to the sun – sure enough I could see it. The switch sends 12 volt dc to the anchor light, but less than 3 volt dc to the red and green navigation lights at the bow.
I assume I can remove the screws and the existing crimp on receptacles on the wires will slide over the terminals? Our wiring system includes; male and female main plastic connectors, in-line battery fuse, and a 6 option fuse block, color coded wires that are pre-labeled for your convenience, waterproof shrink wrap butt connectors to help ensure your wires have a good connection and are protected from the outside elements. If the fuse blows again, trace the power lead from the fuse up to the helm and out to components. This pontoon boat wiring harness has been designed so that anyone can re-wire their pontoon boat quickly and easily. The stereo wiring diagram shows two positive connections one labeled battery and the other labeled ignition - I don't want the stereo on all the time. I just want to use the trolling motor battery for the trolling motor and accessories when the main engine is not running if that is possible.
The hydraulics work, but I have no power to the marine electrical switch panel or any of the switches that turn on navigation lights, radio or my depth finder. PontoonStuff also has these little micro LED’s that are very affordable and I love using them. Another item that’s very handy for dual battery setups (or more) is the VSR system if your outboard has at least a 16amp charging system.

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