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Boston Previous Member   which is why I posted lines of the Downeast hull form, so folks could get a clear image of the type of hull commonly associated with a lobster boat. If your using a hull form of a traditional lobster boat people just might refer to is as such, specially if the top sides and sheer also resemble the layout.
Location: Flattop Islands Once again Boston you have posted a question that could be addressed by writing 3-4 books. From Massachusetts to Nova Scotia there are hundreds of versions of Downeast Lobster Boat hulls, some good , some bad, some indifferent. Understand that these boats are built to make money, everything else is just gravy, if they don't make money they are put out to pasture. Originally Posted by Tad Once again Boston you have posted a question that could be addressed by writing 3-4 books. A stretched version of White Pine will produce a very easily driven hull, if the weight is kept in check. I would imagine that often the boats are loaded down with pots only a few times a year, at least the inshore boats, the pots spending most of the time in the water.
I?m in the process of setting myself up for retirement and part of the plan is to upgrade my boat. I would like to be able to go across to Tasmania (120 - 450 nm depending on landfall chosen) or coastal hop up to the Great Barrier Reef and on to Darwin (longest leg I'd do around 450 nm). I do like the looks of White Pine but think it may be a little slow (her max is listed as 15 knots and I'd like to have some in reserve). The production boats available in Australia do not ?tick all my boxes? so I am seriously looking at building here (importing is not very attractive at current exchange rates) and we have 3-4 competent wooden boat builders where I live so this seems like my best option. If she's kept simple (light) you could expect 14 knots with about 120 HP at the prop and 12 knots with 73 HP. I got some feed back on onother forum that the down east hull is stable to a degree but in heavier seas its stability drops off fast.


I like the way the beam narrows toward the stern and I also like the ?raised? floor and kitchen up in the main cabin area.
The head could be a fraction bigger so the ?shower? has a bit more room (I?d use this for hanging wet gear as well).
Finally, last night I became aware of some select grade Alaskan Yellow Cedar planks (6? x 1? & 10? x 1?) that are available in near me, so I am thinking that this would be a good timber for planking the boat as I?m told it is light, strong and easy to work. She has a round bilge clinker planked marine plywood hull with an open wheelhouse and a lower cabin with moderate flare forward and good size cockpit deck, strongly raked stem, transom stern and hinged timber slatted marlin platform. There is a very long way between these educated guesses and the real life finished boat, but the expectations are roughly in the range of possible.
The largest single weight in this boat will be the fuel load, so that capacity needs to be considered carefully.
Location: Flattop Islands I'm also very jealous of the Yanmar engines available in Australia. A 60' hull that displaces 53,400 pounds will require 44 Hp at the prop for 9 knots in flat water, no bearing looses, alternator drag, no current, wind, waves, no bottom growth, no appendages, etc. Originally Posted by Tad I'm also very jealous of the Yanmar engines available in Australia. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: goldcoast hahah yeah i might just build the extension for the outboards for the moment. Location: goldcoast but a mono hull at the bow and a tunnel hull come stern?? Location: Australia The boat I built looked eerily similar, looking from behind the stern, as yours, it had one outboard centrally mounted behind a nacelle in the tunnel, the cav plate about half way between the roof of the tunnel and the bottom of it.
Location: Australia I can't speak to the motives of the designer of your curiosity-piece, but my intent was to create a vessel with the kind of ride quality and resting stability of a cat, without the need for twin engines.


No way they would be so popular among the fishermen if they were not well suited to it; not just the bay, but the open New England waters as well.
I have recently joined the Royal Victorian Motor Yacht Club and this has given me the opportunity to look at a wide variety of boats and narrow down what I would like?..
I have looked at a locally built boat, a Cheviot 32, and it is lovely but just a bit to small for me, plus access to the bow is more difficult than I would like.
Do you have any suggestions on how this design could be ?improved? to achieve (or exceed) these sort of targets while still meeting what I am after? The lower cabin has a kitchenette, a separate toilet with wash basin and two bench seats that have been set up to convert to a basic double berth.
That worked OK, don't worry that the forward part of the hull will interfere with water flow, the level just rises to meet the prop. I'd say it met those criteria, but I was never happy with the tracking in an arc between beam and stern quartering. Brant rock ( well off the south shore ) has got so many buoys floating around it you could walk across em and its out in the middle of nowhere, definitely not protected water and we fixed plenty of boats that worked there. It did have some handling peculiarities inasmuch as it tended to jink around a bit in beam seas, but ride and stability were good. My boat was considerably deeper forward than yours, but a differently proportioned thing altogether, not long and skinny.



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