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From building airplanes, I'd say if you made the frame out of a harder wood not necessarly balsa. I was thinking about other wood too, I used to be a finish carpenter so I'm really good at working with wood. Well I went to the LHS and they had some balsa and basswood however they didn't have the sizes I wanted. I came across a fiberglass repair kit at ACE yesterday, it included the resin, 3sq feet of fiberglass cloth and was only about $14. I plan on posting pics as I go along, however I think I'll be busy with work for the next week or so and don't know if I'll be able to do a whole lot.
Ok, did a little work, I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with 2 axles, 3 would look funny because the boat isn't long enough. A PT 109 RC PT Boat project a€“ how to scratch build a semi scale radio controlled model PT boat from plans.
Every project needs goals set in the beginning, so here are the goals for this project:Quick construction a€“ Like many people, Ia€™m busy and have a family and a day job.
Hull - Balsa: It is inexpensive, is relatively easy to cut and glues like a dream with CA glue. Without going into too much detail, the plans had to be reworked for simpler and speedier construction. I made the mistake of printing out some of the longer items on small pieces of paper and taping them back together.
After printing out the bulkhead, false keel, chine and shear templates they were attached to the balsa sheets. Here is a trick I was told by a model airplane builder many years ago:When making two identical parts the old fashion way was to use pins to hold one balsa sheet on top of the other.
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Plans for wood lathe how to Download plans for wood lathe PDFThe gratis Ellen Price Wood lathe projects are really demanding. These RC model boats are based on an easy-to-build 15-inch long hard chine hull mostly constructed from balsa. Being a planing hull the speed is high enough not to be boring, but not so fast it would easily get out of control. Generally, the balsa sheet should be relatively light-weight and soft, but most importantly, straight grain and even density.
Tools are often a matter of personal choice as there is often more ways than one to skin a cat.
The lid is now on and other things like the radio box were secured in and sealed.  I also made up a bracket to support the rear of the pipe. Very close now but just not quite enough hours in the weekend to get it watertight and ready for it’s maiden voyage.  A special thanks to Tim for helping me out too!
Ok, so now i’ve got the fuel tank all sorted, the Flex drive is all installed and set in epoxy too.
Ok, some time ago (just over a year now) I decided that the whipper snipper in the shed with a broken flex shaft had more to accomplish in life other than the tasks of a mere garden tool.  It was with this that i decided to build a boat! The rudder is in a bad spot, steering sucks so I'm working on that and will get a video this weekend. These electric motors have some amazing power, never would have though they were this strong. I am waiting on a new rudder that will place the leading edge behind the props, it should do the trick. First test which was multiple back and forth high speed runs but few were at full throttle.
I was testing with one pack per motor because I was afraid the extra weight would slow it down. I think with 4 batteries total I should get an honest 15 minutes run time with mostly high speed running.


But I am not sure which motors should be used or if at all feasible with electric power, they have quite large electric brushless motors in their webpage and if not possible with outboards I might be interested in trying inboard brushless like your project but I am in need for some advise in regards to which motors, feasibility .. In this build I bought the little scale outboards first then found a hull that matched in scale size. If outboards could be used I am ready to buy THREE units off them why do you think is not feasible?
IF YOU DO NOT HAVE THE TOOLS TO MAKE THE MOUNTS TO FIT ELECTRIC MOTORS to the gas outboards, than there is no need to move on from there. Quick video, it sucks because I was alone so I just set the camera on the lean post of my boat. The new rudder works great, the only thing I need to figure out now is the over heating ESC.
Maybe pine would be better, I was thinking balsa because it works well with CA glue and is super easy to cut. I have the wood, straightened it out, came up with a design, a joint method and am ready to start working on it. I really wanted to do a 3 axle design too but I just don't think it would look right, however I might build another trailer since this one is going so quickly. I want to finish this model in a matter of weeks spending evenings mostly.Semi scale a€“ should look accurate to most people familiar with the PT 109 at 3m (10ft).
I felt it was important to maintain the shear of the fore deck a€“ a characteristic feature of the Elco's.This makes construction a little trickier, since the common practice is to build the hull upside down and set the bulkheads flat on the table. They would inevitably shift and the parts would come out trashed.Instead, put CA glue down in a few spots (six to eight places on a 4 x 36 inch (100 x 1000mm) sheet).
These projects are perfect for beginners and those looking for a cheap, easy, simple and fast build.
These boats would make great introductions to both scratch building and RC boating.You may wonder why I keep referring to this project in plural. For propeller I've come to use one plundered from a toy (I'll get into more detail later in the build log).For propeller shaft, stuffing tube, rudder etc.
There is no reason a more commercial RC battery pack couldn't be used.The propeller is "on loan" from a Tamiya Submarine Motor (#70153). Whether you're researching a new boat, or are a seasoned Captain, you'll find The Hull Truth Boating & Fishing Message Forum contains a wealth of information from Boaters and Sportfishermen around the world.
Because the rudder is in front of the props it throws air into the props causing massive cavitation. I would really want to power it with a three large outboard set up, if neccessary, using three gas outboard complete lower units but with a large brushless in the place of the gas motor maybe like the one in the pic at the bottom of this text.
That model is big and will be heavy and three of these motors should push it to 50 MPH if you can get big enough lower units and props.
I took some pics with two and three wheels to simulate axles to see how it will look, give me some opions, I still can't decide.
Tomorrow I plan on finishing the cross braces and starting on the rails that the boat actually sits on. I bought a Nikko boat about 6 months ago and I was going to covert it to regular electronics and put in a better motor. To work around this issue, I instead flattened out the knuckle line using a balsa sheet as a chine stringer.With this approach the number of bulkheads can be reduced without jeopardizing the integrity of the hull as its being built.
It is near impossible to piece it back right, and get them onto the balsa without getting distorted.
For long and spindly parts, like the false keel and shear templates, leave more (a lot more even, if possible).
Make the spots as tiny as you can make them a€“ a droplet is way too much a€“ just a touch is enough.Also, if you pay attention when laying out the parts to be cut on the wood, try and place the dots so they hold the parts together after they have been cut out.
I typically end up getting blisters on my index finger, so I cut the pieces out over several nights to let my poor finger recover. For curved cuts I typically cut straight cuts first and clean-up with a small model plane - one of those that take razor blades.If you have access to either a band saw or scroll saw, you'll finish this step in no-time. I strongly recommend that you don't substitute the materials recommended here.Below is a list of material needed for this RC boat hull and approximate quantities.


And because its not in the prop wash it just doesn't turn the boat will unless the boat is moving at a good clip. I think your biggest problem is going to be finding outboards that big that are scale looking.
My 54" Fountain has two Leopard 5692 (1340 Kv) motors and the boat is so fast its hard to keep it in the water. My first idea was to use small aluminum stock such as C channel, angle iron, and small nuts and bolts to fasten it all together.
Maybe I'll cruize down to the LHS and see what they have in stock, they might have that other kind that you are thinking about.
All I'm using is a small hobby miter box and saw, glue, a small drill bit, and some 1 inch brad nails. It's actually a bit larger than this boat and I think a 3 axle would look just right under it.
Also, a straight chine profile is nowhere near as noticeable as a flat deck would have been.Some curve can be worked back into the chine by careful sanding once the hull is planked.
If they are too narrow, no matter how careful, the templates will not maintain their shape.I use an adhesive in a spray can that essentially turn the template into one large sticky-note. This can be a challenge, but well worth the effort.After cutting the parts out, you can carefully separate the two identical pieces by carefully prying or by cutting using a razor blade. If you are not comfortable using the tools listed further down on this page, at the very least, ask someone for help. After a few boat projects you'll be a balsa expert.For the balsa strips I'd go for a harder quality than the sheets (if available). It's not hard to do if you've got some basic tools and the means and skill to solder with a basic solder iron. I have the ability to run two batteries in parallel per motor which won't increase the speed but will double the run time. The gas outboard you have pictured above will work and I believe they make little Mercury cowlings for them. I think three axles would look cool however it may not look right if the boat is not long enough. In the second pic you can make out the center beam of the trailer, that is about how long it will be. For instance, the sweep of the front third of the deck as seen in profile has to be there.Inexpensive to build a€“ The target is to be well under what Ia€™d have to pay for a Lindberg PT 109 kit a€“ about US$100. If all else fail, the spray strip can be attached to give the desired illusion of a bent chine. I happen to have the Krylon brand "Easy-Tack", but 3M's adhesive #75 is the original (3M is more money though). These strips will be used as structural stringers and for deck coaming, so there are no bends or anything to consider. I'd say it's still worth it 99% of the time.On this model the two chine and shear templates were cut out this way.
These strips could be substituted for basswood or spruce if available in a pinch.I've had mixed luck with basswood strips. I think I'll just paint it and put a good clear coat on it to keep water from saturating the wood. I order most of my wood online and thin basswood strips often has the grain run out the side of the strip causing it to split when bending. I would use TC tires on it and haven't figured out how to mount the axles yet or come up with a general design yet.



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