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I've ripped up the carpet in my living room and found some issues with the plywood subfloor (see pictures). I sure wouldn't want to risk putting an expensive floor on top--only to find the smell comes back.
People who are restoring old boats often face the problem of rotten wood inside their boat’s core. The first thing to do, before you start to remove parts from your boat, you should take some pictures of how everything looked in the start, so you will have some guidelines for later on.
Be sure to support your boat’s hull well, becouse when you remove structural parts from the hull it becomes flexible and it can twist. I started with cutting away the outboard motor well and removed all the fiberglass that covered the transom. Next I cut out the inner fiberglass skin that covered the transom in order to get to the plywood core. After you remove every bit of the old transom, take a good sander and sand the outer fiberglass skin to perfection. Once the old plywood is removed, make a template of the transom using cardboard or cheap plywood or construction foam. After you laminated your new transom you will laminate your  new inside transom fiberglass skin. The lamination schedule for each boat will vary, but in general, you will be looking to build up to the original thickness.


Your new transom is now complete and the only thing you need to do now is to tie it to your boat’s stringers and at the end coat everything with gelcoat to make it really waterproof. One of the most frequent repairs on older boats is replacing or at least repairing a plywood cored transom. In my boat, the whole top back end of the boat had to be removed, but this may be different in other boats.
I used all sorts of tools to do that, but an old crowbar,a hammer and a chisel did the best job for me.
If you make it thinner with sanding, you should add a layer of glass and resin over it and sand it again. Use heavy biaxial cloth to tie the stringers to the transom and repeat the lamination several times.
I figured removing the carpet and padding would do the trick but the smell is still there.
Originally it was 38mm thick  and I made two new identical pieces that were 22mm each and were made out of waterproof marine graded plywood. When you place your first piece in the boat be sure to laminate it with one layer of glass mate and use a lot of epoxy on it. Laminate the motor well back in place, mount all parts back where they were, mount your engine and you are ready to go.


I cut the the inner skin in one piece and used it later on as a template for the new plywood transom core.
Work slowly and precisely and be sure to remove any trapped air from your lamination layers, becouse they can start holding water in next couple of years and you will then have to do all over again. Below are some pictures of how my boat turned out, although this is not the only repair I had done. If your transom is not completly rotten, you should remove it carefully, becouse it will save you a lot of time if you can use it as a template for the new one. Epoxy is gap filling and extremely strong, you want the epoxy to remain between the plywood layers. Once the epoxy begins to squeeze out the sides evenly it is time to stop the clamping pressure.



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