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A fiberglass hull's seamless nature leads many boatowners to conclude that repair must be difficult. Location: atlanta,ga mirage 236 pics I also have many of the parts to complete the boat. Location: atlanta,ga 236 details The hull is not damaged although there is some surface crazing.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: San Francisco It looks like a piece of crap with negative value, to me. The keel is weirdly tiny, and it looks suspiciously like someone has hacked out part of whatever it was made of first and replaced it with a hunk of lead(?) in a (probably hopeless) effort to make the thing stay upright.
If it had actually sailed at one point in its life, it might be a fun project to bring back to life -- still a big financial loss, but educational and fun if you're in to that kind of thing. Location: Cathlamet, WA It looks like it could be a John Brandylmeir (sp?) design.
Location: San Francisco Out of curiousity, what makes you think it's a Brandlmayr design?


I poked around, and all the designs I found seemed to favor a more traditional sheerline and rather more rake to the stem. Location: Cathlamet, WA While sailing near Campbell River about 35 years ago a 24 foot sailboat designed by Brandlmayr sailed by us quite handily on a similar sized boat. ISO and GL » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Through-hull for steel sailboat - how to do it ? 1971 SlickCraft SS 165 FOR SALE » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Roberts 25 Adventurer Hull & Deck Assembly with Trailer for SALE!
The underbody just looks wrong, and in the absence of evidence to the contrary, I think it IS just wrong.
Here, clearly and abundantly illustrated, is all you need to know to seal joints, bed hardware, replace portlights, locate leaks, fix cracks and even holes, restore your hull's gloss, renew nonskid decks, and much more.
I'm a cabinet maker by trade and not a boat builder but this looks like a well built hull and deck that I am considering picking up and working on but no plans are available and the original builder has passed away so there is no information available to me as to the design. Its a little hard to start talking to people about rigging without knowing what to call her. This is the original 236 hull that the mold was pulled off of, (the boat is a shortened Kelly 24) and the deck was a custom light weight that I had built at the factory.


It could be completed as a board boat, lift keel or fixed keel, there is no difference in the hulls. I don't have a keel as I was planing on building a lifting bulb keel, but I do have rudders, masts, rigging and many other parts to complete it.
This sailing vessel is specifically designed for strength and heavy weather safety; it is capable of carrying stores, fuel, and water for extended bluewater cruising or live aboard in the tropic islands. The 236 was a really good design that was compromised by the MORC rule and the builder's market limitations.
It could be finished as a competitive racer, roomy trailerable or as I did with mine, both.



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