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Most likely there are mistakes, that is why I am trying to ask for someone experienced to kindly point me those blunders or not so obvious to me problems. So, having said all this, I am asking if anyone would point me in the right direction, hopefully without foul remarks. Location: Arlington, WA-USA the bow looks to my eye needs to be more fine, smother transistion to aft part of the hull. Also, I do not understand the hard chines up in the bow, they appear to curve upward too far forward.
First of all I would like to admit that I am not a professional and my arguments may prove to be fruitless.
However, here are my reasons for hard chine bow: I tried both smooth and hard chines in the bow. I wanted to have fuller bow because it would not dip in the water that much while running down the wind. Location: Lakeland Fl USA The profile view shows a rather abrupt upward curve of the keel line as it approaches the transom. Truth to tell, you won't be planeing all of the time so consideration must be given to pure displacement mode. The computer program will deliver whatever you tell it to do but it does not know how to design a good boat.
While you are doing these exercises, look for places or ways to conserve weight in your design.
I must say that I would never be able to come up with something like this without helpful suggestions of the forum members.
If you love mini's (like I do) i would check out the speedfeet 18, its a french sportsboat and you can see the influence of the french mini designs in her lines.
Location: * It is just an exercise The reason behind wide transom was to account for extreme heeling. Perhaps it would be more effective sailing vessel by raising freeboard and making hull narrower ? that I would not know.


For example, I agree that for a small dinghy straighter stern sections would benefit in terms that a person may lean back more when going downwind, but for a larger vessel it becomes immaterial and weight saving and cross wind area would prevail design reasoning.
Having said so, my reasoning for a wide transom is to maintain heeled geometry resembling lines of a leveled hull. The shell geometry and balancing are most important for this exercise and other considerations are secondary. Any kind of questions force me to re-think initial reasoning and are only beneficial to my efforts. Location: Lakeland Fl USA It is not necessarily true that heeling a narrow transomed boat tends to shorten the water lines.
As for heeling, you have used as much as 30 degrees for examination of the several items of interest. There are boats that like to be heeled, such as scows and many of the flat bottomed skiff like boats. Less rocker will also bring it up on plane faster, but make turning somewhat more draggy and slow you down more at the lower displacement speeds.
The shape will depend on where you want to optimize performance, or to compromise it between one end or the other of its expected performance envelope. The angle that it should make, with respect to waterline, as it approaches the transom should be as small as displacement considerations will allow.
Part of the mystery and fun of boat design is to fiddle with the requirements of the two modes and manage to compromise them appropriately. If you anticipate that will be a trapeze platform then alright but it does add more weight than is desirable. It looks nice, but on a small boat, if you want to get crew weight far aft, you can't, it takes up space that you could use for an extra person, and its more complicated to build round than flat. That severe degree of heel is interesting only to the extent that you want to determine righting moment. The spoon reaction is counter intuitive but does give visible evidence of an important principle of physics.


I expect that as a trapeze platform it is too far aft for anything but a wild broad reach in a half gale. One reason is that a deep forefoot will make the boat behave erratically when quartering waves or wakes.
You can reduce your wetted surface area by sailing slightly heeled, its how lots of big, beamy racing yachts do it upwind, then downwind they flatten out and use their width to plane.
There is very little likelihood that you would ever deliberately sail the boat at that angle. Well done sharpies usually hit the sweet spot at about 10 to 12 degrees in which case sail drive losses and underwater shapes and drag figures can be compared. Experiment with different heel angles and then change the rocker dimensions a little at a time. The other reason is that the boat will not tack as willingly if there is too much lateral area in the water at the stem.
Observe not only that the WLs get longer when heeled but they all become narrower and wet surface will diminish. Not only that but the section centroids can be made to fall into a perfectly straight line. The top of the mast is going the wrong way and the air streaming across the sail is disturbed badly. It is to get a quick and easy graphic understanding of how the waterlines behave under heeled conditions.




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