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Don Casey has been one of the most consulted experts on boat care and upgrades for 30 years, and is one of the BoatUS Magazine's panel of experts.
The Arch has the appearance and strength of a custom welded unit when installed on your boat. Everything is included for a complete installation on most boats, even backing plates along with instructions and a video detailing all the steps of the installation.
New for Spring 2015, "Tower In A Box" arch bridges include a snap-in Sintra cover panel in radar plate to conceal wiring. Atlantic Towers manufactures a wide variety of fittings and specialty hardware that allow Sail Arch owners to design and build a variety of individualized applications. An extruded anodized aluminum clamp assembly that can be used to secure a lifting tackle to the arch.
Custom Solar Panel Mounts.We offer a full line of parts and accessories that can be combined to create your own custom mounting solution. Clamp on Cleat $99An extruded anodized aluminum clamp allows you to add a cleat anywhere on your Atlantic Towers Sail Arch. The Arch was designed for owner installation and is typically no more complicated than installing rod holders or outriggers, just a few more pieces. Atlantic Towers wants you to enjoy your boat, not spend the season chasing a freight claim. Atlantic will accept the return of any Standard Structure within 30 days of it’s receipt by you. Due to our dedication to continued product improvement, we reserve the right to make changes without notice.


It weighs less than 100 pounds, and is strong enough to support the weight of two persons for the installation of equipment. Includes two 42" Schd.80 extensions, end caps, curved washers, clamp assembly lifting eyes, and all hardware needed for installation. Individual Adjust-O-Launcher aluminum rod holders can be mounted anywhere on the perimeter of the Sail Arch framework.
40 anodized aluminum pipe with an outer diameter measuring 1.9" and features eye bolts for tying down equipment along with grip rail to prevent any slipping or damage.
As an added benefit, absolutely nothing prolongs the life of a battery like keeping it fully charged.
With three different clamp on or bolt on versions available, the rack can be clamped or bolted to existing arches, hardtops, davit systems, bow rails, and foredecks. A battery charger can do the job for a boat on a trailer or at a dock, but there are risks to leaving an unattended boat plugged in.
The legs may be trimmed for the best overall height, and at unequal lengths to facilitate installation. If your boat is on a mooring, a solar panel is the only practical choice for maintaining batteries at full charge.SizingWet-cell batteries self-discharge at about 1% of amp-hour rating per day--more in hot weather, less when it's cold. For a 100-amp-hour battery, that means a solar panel with a daily output of about one amp-hour.Solar panels, however, are rated in watts.
To determine the output current in amps, divide the watt rating by 15--the approximate true output voltage of a typical solar panel. But throw in an occasional sunless day, put blocking diodes in the circuit, and let the bilge pump run once in a while, and five watts will be about right.


A small amount of extra capacity won't damage the batteries as long as you maintain the water level in them.Whatever size panel you select, it should have at least 33 cells. This assumes crystalline panels, which deliver the most output from the smallest package, but if you sail where overcast days outnumber sunny ones, you might consider a thin-film panel, as this type can have better low light output.MountingSolar panels give maximum output when they are perpendicular to the sun's rays, but since boat movement makes inclining the panel toward the sun less than a sure thing, it is almost always best to mount the panel horizontally. It should not be shaded by spars or antennas since even the thin shadow cast by a wire can drastically cut the output of the panel. Deck mounting is just as effective as long as the chosen spot is shadow-free when the sun is high. Heat reduces output, so deck mounted panels should be raised enough for free air circulation beneath.WiringWiring is essentially a matter of connecting the solar panel's positive terminal (or red lead) to the positive battery post, and the negative terminal to the negative battery post. Solar panels with a maximum output current of no more than about 1% of battery capacity don't require regulation, nor will you need a blocking diode to keep current from flowing back to the panel at night.
Without a fuse, a short in the wiring is a dead short across the battery, with fire a likely consequence.
If your boat has more than one battery (bank), you can maintain them with a dedicated solar panel wired to each bank, or you can use a single panel sized according to total battery capacity. If you are floating two battery banks with a single panel, insert diodes in both positive legs of the circuit to keep the batteries isolated. The marked end of the diode (or the point of the arrow) goes on the battery side.For additional information about solar panels, consult Sailboat Electrics Simplified by Don Casey.



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