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I would look to the AS39 for comfort info, although I think it has a ballasted center board.
Originally Posted by BriggsMonteith This boat is othing like a bolger as series or norwalk island sharpie, simply because the HFM displaces over 30,000 lbs Nice that you have some info , do you have any more? Location: Choctaw Beach, Florida All of this stuff was passed on to me by a someone who has been very generous with his time and information. The boat has standing headroom throughout and is designed to go anywhere that water is in a liquid state to the best of my knowledge.
Originally Posted by BriggsMonteith This boat is othing like a bolger as series or norwalk island sharpie, simply because the HFM displaces over 30,000 lbs There is the Norwalk Island 43 that is similar in that it is blue water capable and can ground upright on a center keel (with CB) and twin rudder skegs.
Location: usa Briggs , is Chris going to make the plans available any time ?
Location: Choctaw Beach, Florida Well he's been AWOL for a couple of years now, so I don't know. Location: usa Thanks again , I have been interested in his sharpie designs for a while.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: Shanghai 29' sailing boat design I was make a 10m class boat design a few days ago.
A bigger and comfortable boat may be need L40', D4', B12'(had better not more than 3.5m, because the size be suited to land transportation).
Your main goal should be to have EVERYTHING as simple as possible; try to avoid anything that is tricky, complicated, high tech or troublesome to fix.
For the complexity of the ocean environment, intuition told me I should use a traditional FULL KEEL. A full keel can be simply made in steel by making what looks about like a long sloping trough that tapers at bow and stern. Designer Yelken Octuri developed a design of a futuristic sailboat that can transform into a plane. It would be interesting to note that Captain Silvan Mariach was the one who commissioned this futuristic Sailing Aircraft to Aerocoche Company. Besides being able to sail in the sea and fly above the ground, the vehicle offers luxurious space for four passengers. According to Octuri the aircraft features a Recchia & Husser engine, 2 propellers in its tail and 2 lateral panels that can flip over horizontally, thus turning into 2 small pontoons. It employs the same basic radius chine plywood construction technique, scaled down to suit the smaller boat but takes it a step further into the plywood precut kit concept. The backbone is also of plywood, on edge, slotted through the bulkheads as a self-jigging eggcrate arrangement to assist setting up the framework. Assembly of the hull follows the principles of model aeroplane construction, with stringers slotted into the bulkheads for attachment of the skin.
The standard keel is a vertical dropkeel with a 400kg bulb on the end of the high aspect foil. The cockpit and bridgedeck together are 3m long, giving plenty of space for working the boat while racing or socialising or sunning when cruising. The fractional and masthead spinnakers are asymmetric, set on a retractable pole on the foredeck.

Included in the stock plan package are full size patterns of the backbone and various other components, plotted onto mylar film on our large format inkjet roll plotter. Follow these links to an article on radius chine plywood and other designs of similar construction, the Didi Mini, DIDI 23, DIDI 28, Didi MG30, DIDI 34 and DIDI 38. Follow these links to print or download a material list for the structure or a stability curve for this design. Location: British Columbia Steel Yacht Construction This explains the huge increase in steel boats out cruising. Repairs on the boat in the picture would probably be , remove internal bent framing, spring back the plating that you can, replace the bent stuff, bend it and tack it in place,fully weld the edges, then replace the internal structural . As it turns out, both the owner and the watch were asleep, so extra speed was of no use, - so yes, steel saved their lives. Location: British Columbia I doubt if an extra knot or two would make much difference in any circumstane. With good shot blasting preperation, proper initial design, and top grade marine paint formulated for steel, a steel boat will outlive the owner, provided proper maintnaince is adhered to. Over 40ft LOA, a modern well designed hull compares favorably with a tupperware boat and with a proper thought out radius chine, also scores top marks aesthetically on looks.
A one square metre plate of 5 mm steel weighs about 39 kg that?s equivalent of 24 mm of fibreglass or a fibreglass sandwich with 9 mm shells and a 10 cm core of divynicell H100. Of course the steel hull would need frames and stiffeners so it would still be heavier than the other two.
I not sure how someone gets any info out of Chris Morejohn , I have tried and so have others. But this problem is not large, because the boat are usually in shallow water at this time activities, and do not use the sail, relying on power (as in the harbor). But it cost so high, it would be more deep-draft, and the resistance of big slow boat speed. The small size of the vessel permits the elimination of the laminated floors needed to support the keel loads in the larger boats. It extends from the stemhead to the transom and has large radius structural fillets to tie it into the hull skin. The hull skin is single skin plywood to the sides and bottom and the radius is done in two layers.
The cabintop is designed with a multi-chine skin and is assembled over the bulkheads by the stitch and glue method for a strong and lightweight structure.
Epoxy coated and painted inside and out to hull and deck, a good standard of finish is achievable with little or no fairing aside from forming fillets at internal angles. This uses a hollow aluminum casing for the foil, constructed over tubular inner framing and fitted with the same bulb options as the lifting keel. The inboard end is fitted on a radiused transverse track to allow the outboard end to be projected up to weather for sailing at deeper angles.
Bulkhead shapes are simple and easily set out from clear diagrams, the setting out taking about 2 to 3 hours per bulkhead. We also have an amateur projects section where you can see other projects to this and other designs. If more people realised the toughness of steel construction there would be far fewer non metal boats out cruising.

Moisser's (I think) Joshua was in a hurricane and driven into many other moored & anchored boats. The last example would also give a positive buoyancy of bout 80 kg per square metre of hull. I think he has sailed it from Florida to the Med , so I guess it will handle some offshore conditions. In addition, my ship is steel, and to do that kind of structure is relatively more complicated (in the steel boat is very easy to do BULB KEEL). The addition of a layer of glass fabric to the outside will give increased resistance to knocks but will add weight and require fairing, thereby adding a fair amount to construction time and cost. The casing is bolted through the hull bottom to an aluminum support box, which is bolted to the internal structure of the hull. They are located where they can be operated from the companionway, the bridgedeck or the weather rail. Extension and retraction of the pole can be done from either rail, with the pole retracting to whichever side is convenient at the time.
The dropkeel casing forms one side of the enclosed heads compartment, which includes a bin type wet locker. Down below it goes along with a pair of quarter berths, also more suited to the hairy chested racer and use under sail.
Although not designed to their limits, she was drawn to fit within the class rules of the now defuct Australian Level Class 800 Association, a set of rules that was formulated to give boat-for-boat racing for trailer sailers. For those who would prefer to have full size patterns for the bulkheads, we can also supply them as an optional extra. Moitessier put a similar picture of a sister ship to his Joshua in a 1984 iissue of Yachting magazine, which had been T-boned by a 35,000 ton freighter . All of these parts are plywood and epoxy filleted together, making for simplified construction.
When rescue services are hundreds of miles away & charts are inaccurate, steel is the way to go, especially when 'Summer' water temps are in the mid 30'sF.
The bulb can be done in either a simple vertical sided foil section for owner casting or a torpedo shape for professional casting.
A light drifter can be flown outside the shrouds and sheets to the spinnaker blocks on the quarters. The prime berth in the boat is a large transverse double under the bridgedeck, great for use on moorings or at anchor.
Whichever route you choose, we will be available to assist with advice if any problems arise. I have collided with a large metal object about 1000 miles north of Hawaii, that would have easily sunk me if my boat hadn't been steel.

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