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4 or 5 have been built and a few stretched versions are on the verge.This is the original at 12 ft long and 4 ft wide. Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada If you click on user CP you can see if anyone has docked you points.
12'x 4' though it would be a lot more stable at 5' or better in beam, though it's efficiency will drop quickly. This shape will handle chop and passing powerboat wakes much better then the floating shoe boxes others seem to enjoy. The design above will easily out perform any of the shanty boat, box boat or square micro cruiser thingies. Having said that i can once again assure you that you dont want to go that fast in a 12' x 4' (4m x 1.2m) boat. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
But the flat-bottom skiffs tend to porpoise and pound, and I might occasionally tow a skier or want to cruise sort of fast, while a 40' deadrise is a bit much for me.
So, I have been looking for shoal draft, chop handling, and ability to cruise comfortably on plane.
Then I started drawing and -surprise- same up with a 20ft skiff (is there a prize for the billionth design?). I realize it might not perform better than other S+G designs (at best) but to me the look is better, with a couple extra panels. Location: maine Regardless of what she'll do motoring, I saw nothing in the lines to prevent sailing rather fast with the right rig.
Location: Pontevedra, Spain You'll have to keep that forefoot out of the water when planning, or it may induce directional instability, in my opinion.


I have only crude guesses about trim under power at this stage, but with an outboard, it should not be hard to have the bow trim up. Now all I have to do is turn the aft stations to true monohedron and I would have something I could buy on any street corner-the homogenized skiff! Location: Sydney I think your second design looks much better - no need for that pointed forefoot in the first one, and that wedge did look like the drag would outweight the benefits. Location: Virginia, US The transom is not warped as you can see from the (unfaired) views here. BWD View Public Profile View BWD's Gallery Find all posts by BWD « >small jet boat design help?
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You would have to reshape the bottom which would preclude planing with a motor so you would be stuck maxing out at about 5 or 6 mph. It looks like a boat, it has full standing headroom, requires very modest power and will leave a clean, unmolested wake. You will soon see that you want to cruise comfortably with sitting head room under the cabin roof to escape the sun.
Maybe needs a touch more flare -tough issue for me ( - I'm from Va but went to school in NC ).


So I was thinking originally if warped it might run flat enough to be good if I stay out of nastier waves. Douglas Fir keel and laminated stem.  This ship was designed for a Turkish yacht club interested in group training. Overview any type of building application imaginable, such as steel barns, steel garages, horse barn designs, small or. We manufacture affordable steel home kits using You are building an Energy Efficient Cocoon that also has a Class 1 fire rating! I like the near-plumb stem, so kept that in spite of the lightness of the boat, since I'm not looking to go in big water.
Hoping it might run 20-25kts with a 70hp OB, cut small steep chop easily off plane, and if lucky run comfortably at 15 or so. Say if you were looking at her from the side, she would look like her bow is flat (like your design) but on my design, her bow come to an edge and you can see that looking from the top. It's a fine arrangement if you're needs require the few things they actual offer, but your needs aren't as suited to a mud motor as you might think.
Feel over my head trying to integrate elemants here, but grateful for any constructive feedback.
I would round the forefoot a bit, but easier to do in reality than in CAD, so it shows sharp in renderings.



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