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You can build the Newfie as the traditional inboard version with a 10-40 horse diesel, or as an outboard version, having a wider aft section to accomodate an outboard well for a high-thrust outboard motor. If you are purchasing plans that you will be downloading in electronic format, you will NOT be emailed the plans.
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If you wish to receive printed plans, or wish to pay by check, money order or credit card by mail, phone or FAX, just download the pdf order form and price list by clicking on the image below. I've taken the traditional hull shape, with a little less rocker and sheer shape, and modernized the construction using my well proven method of using common lumberyard materials and modern adhesives to create a unitized one-piece hull that is not only easy to build, but also light and rugged.
We are located on the Snohomish River in the Pacific Northwest, about 20 miles north of Seattle. It also has extensive deck rot, but the boat was built in Bellingham WA state where they made the hull quite robust and so far no sign of rot below the deck knees. I intend to reinforce the bottom of the hull for the harder landings that I will be making in my south puget sound gunkholing with the boat when done. Now, it has a round stern, very voluminous, I hate loosing all that space under this currently badly placed and badly designed cockpit. The rig is sprit boom yawl type and for practicality and ease of handling, there are few if any equals.
In any event, I prefer lees over center no matter the placement for my specific purposes with this boat.
If my redesigns take an edge off the sailing but I end up with a self righting, anti-capsizeable, easily handled vessel that doesn't point quite as well, then fine.
However, having seen the bolger designs, and read monroe's critic of the sharpies of the time, more freeboard and less traditional looking don't necessarily mean ugly, nor inefficient for the purpose. Now every thing on this sharpie is designed to suit the naval architect's idea of 'serving the boat'. I am trying to scrounge up the lexan needed to raise the freeboard bolger style and let in max light. Location: Olympia WA round stern on the sharpie the sharpie has a round stern, well made. Right now the cockpit has this little bit of copper pipe to drain through the centerboard trunk.
Location: maine A center cockpit allows use of stern space as a second cabin. Wheel steering is necessary, but rudderpost is probably vertical and cable steering quadrant can carry forward to wheel at a height just below the double berth. I am trying to raise the money now to buy and end lot of carbon fiber fabric at 9oz that would allow me to wrap the boat from the bottom all the way up the sides and over to nearly mid cabin on my redesigned structure. Anyway the idea is as unbreakable and uncapsizable, and self-righting in the event of knockdown, and beachable on just terrible rocky beaches as is possible. That would put the bilge height at 24" clear for four feet of width, as the cockpit in my drawing is a full foot above the waterline.
A sharpie generally has a shallow V bottom, but an engine in the center would probably have 30" height limit with the cokpit sole at a foot above waterline. Location: Eustis, FL I've sailed many sharpies, designed several and currently have one going together in your area.

Because of the hull shape limitations (forced by the position of the boards), you'll also have rig location requirements that could prove challenging.
Before you make too many alterations, you should get the rig and boards balanced on the hull, in a fashion that will provide a reasonable expectation of helm balance.
I'm not trying to piss on your parade, just a few words of note from someone who's designed and built a few sharpies. Location: Olympia WA A 90 degree knock down and pop right up is what i define as self righting. I will birdsmouth up a nice oval, and have a few ideas about a nifty tabernacle design for ease of handling.
Location: Eustis, FL With the relatively fine entry and max beam location, your boards will be farther aft then the current centerboard location, if optimally arranged for this hull form. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Following are the stock plans available for the various types of boats, separated into the different categories. Dories began appearing over 200 years ago as small, light, versatile work boats ideal for fishing.
Newfoundland is close to the famous Grand Banks, where cod fishing has been king since before Columbus set foot in the new world. They're not enough information for you to build the boat, but they do give you the overall boat size, shape and construction methods.
If you're considering long passages, or extended cruising whether in long stretches of protected waters or open oceans, take a good hard look at the St.
Rigged with fully battened lug sails (chinese style) and lee boards should be easier handling, and ability to run up on our gravely beaches here. And hoped to build it with a cabin roof deck stucture capable of handling the walking around. I think to also raise the stern by same amount as the rest of the freeboard, increasing the stern size but how to design a good alternative to the 'regular' sealed hole cockpit things.
I have nearly all the tools a fellow might need, and some considerable skill in wood, welding and other such boat building arts, and am prepared to tackle the work. It is a cabin layout that is fairly spacious, airy, and is not so high as to create excess top hamper.
The center cockpit idea is pretty good but presents a few challenges that I do not know I wish to undertake, such as self bailing issues.
Now to start the deconstruction process as well as the major scrounge to get the materials needed. I have researched the stuff once presented with a sample and the literature and have come to the same conclusion. Keys to success are sacrificing windward ability, because of the increased windage in the excessive freeboard and cabin arrangements. The reason is a leeboard hull usually has it's maximum beam in quite a different location, then desirable for a centerboard craft. They can be placed a hell of a lot easier and balanced than centerboards misalligned, and mis sized.
I will use bolger style offset masts as well as altering the rudder as part of the whole refit. This will force the relocation of your CE to maintain a reasonable relationship with her appendages.

To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions. I'm trying to help a friend post a pik on the Glen-L forum to sell it, but the forum software isn't quite as friendly as WBF (or I'm not smart enough). After completing the purchase and having your payment accepted, use the Return to Spira International link to take you to a secure page on the Spira International site where you may download the plans and instructions. But need a few ideas please that will go toward stability and self righting and such comfort as may be obtained in such a small boat.
I will remove the center board any way, so how about self bailing cockpit in a round stern? Cf has strength to weight ratio that is better than most materials but that is not enough to know.
That the depth of the resin+material layer will always favor the thicker layer over the nature of the fiber.
In other words, the cabin needs to be tall, but with dramatic roof crown, additional freeboard and ridiculously small side decks. I have designed them with substantial stability curves, that will tolerate a 90 degree knock down and pop back up, but self righting is altogether different and very difficult in shoal, relatively flat bottomed craft.
I intend to go to fully battened lug rig, aka junk style, with hollow masts as I am an old fart and wrestling trees is not fun. I'd strongly advise you work out a sail plan, that can balance over those appendage locations, before you get too far into her rebuilding. Many have made serious ocean passages, and they're ideal for long range, economical cruising. But the deck is rotten, as is the cabin sides, and the cabin top is probably not even marine grade ply. They do bang around annoyingly if poorly arranged, require extra effort in maneuvers and add additional weight above the CG.
Another point to ponder, adding mass to the top of the hull (decking, extra freeboard, cabin, etc.) isn't going to help the stability curve, so it should be kept to a minimum, as much as practical PAR View Public Profile View PAR's Website View PAR's Gallery Find all posts by PAR « pontoon Idea!
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Though they seem rather tender at first (this is a characteristic of all Grand Banks type dories) they can take some extreme seas in stride, always coming right back up for more. I've sailed a few small and two different large Herreshoff designs (Meadowlark and Golden Ball) and the Herreshoff boats show exactly why they need to be designed with care, as they performed very well, but were intended from conception as leeboard vessels. If, for some reason, you cannot download the plans immediately after completing the transaction, e-mail us and we'll make sure you receive the approprite link to download your plans. They're able to carry large loads, and in fact perform better when loaded, as they get stiffer and stiffer with the added ballast. The key to these are placement on the hull (location) and the pivot fitting design, which on the Herreshoff's were first class and the others less so. They have a style and grace underway that no other boat or yacht can seem to even approach. These are displacement hulls that only require very low horsepower engines and can squeeze more miles from a gallon of fuel that any other boat of their size.

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